La Douleur Exquise

It basically smells like Rochas Femme and Portrait of a Lady having an amorous spider fight on Lesbos. Then Patchouli starts perving on them. But it's also not that AT ALL. So it's finally here, Eugen's fragrance brand and I was privileged to be one of the guinea pigs, testing the water with acerbic, hard to please, so called 'reviewers'. This fragrance is perculiarly rosier at a distance than it is close up, on skin. On skin it's a sensual, spicy thing, at least to begin with. So honestly the rose is very measured, has some sweetness in the form of a pear type top note, then the twinkle of iris or violet to it, powdery in a slightly oldskool manner, there's a faint note of cumin or something giving that effect and then balmy resinous warmth. It's not a typical amber (did someone mention myrrh?) because it's much darker than the usual sweet benzoin or biting labdanum amber, also, myrrh and patchouli play very nicely together, especially in a composition so gentle as this one. The woody patchouli which follows is not obtuse or chocolatey, it's quite angular (for a while) and often thought to be synthetic smelling but that is just the way some patchouli oils are. All hangs cohesively with a kind of softness on the skin. The wearing experience is much more dusty and dusky and with a sombre tone, than perhaps my description would have you believe. Exquisite really is the word and I'm not just soft soaping and bypassing my critical eye because I consider Eugen a pal and because I really like and respect the people behind this brand like Antoine Lie, and Atelier Francais des matieres those high expectations made it have to work harder if anything. But this perfume has delivered. I think due to the name and the inspiration, there's a feeling that it should be more bombastic and impactful, but just think for a second about the sorts of perfume Eugen enjoys. Chanel for starters, I mean they sort of exist in a whole chic, echelon all of their own, and this is perfume which glimpes that aesthetic, it's not trying to wow you with the latest 'niche' fad or starfish notes or cannabis or grab your money because it's a Youtuber fragrance. It's about painting with a familiar palate to convey emotion, and for me, it does just that. Do not mistake refinement for banality. My particular enjoyment of this could be down to the fact I'm in the market for a rose at the moment and one which is not sweet or trope laden, and has a patchouli with some bite but also has dreamy, pussycat drydown and classic perfumery nods, and frankly this perfume has all those things. So good on Eugen and everyone involved for creating something really great with a meaningful brief. I know something of what this perfume means to him and where it's come from artistically, emotionally and that makes it all the more meaningful to me personally, and that's the only valid reason I might agree with as to why I connect with the perfume and why I could be a little biased. Speaking objectively, Antoine Lie has been involved in two other brands I can think of in recent years, in Eris and Les Indemodables, both of which I raved and gushed about, with no vested interest, so it stands to reason that a similar brand will also tickle my fancy. What I do find remarkable, is that each of these brands are distinctly different, as good as Les Indemodables are La Douleur Exquise is not just Les Indemodables MKII, it's not more of the same. Okay quality and artistically sure, and that's a good thing, but it's still a unique prospect and that is credit to Lie and Eugen. I can't wait to see what else this brand has to offer because this is a strong first outing for me, without being all shiny shiny, look at me, I think this will slowly plod on and grow in stature. I genuinely love it anyway, great perfume, take my money!

Way better than portrait of a lady. It's more complex, it lacks the fixative overdose, it's darker and more juicy. It's a very dynamic perfume, offering different wafts as time goes on. The performance is stellar and all of the listed notes are there. There's a warm, resinous, pissy skank underneath which reminds me variously of Le Lion, Attaquer le Soleil and 8 88, although the perfume doesn't smell like those ones per say. It has the hallmarks of an Antoine Lie perfume, and makes me think if only he'd had access to these quality ingredients when he made the ELDO and CDG scents (some of which I like, but not love), they could have been exquisite, because the synthetic, screechy, pseudo-spicy elements of those perfumes are gone here, instead making way for sumptuous photorealistic spices and animalic depth. Regarding the name, it makes me think of some line spoken by a sexy brooding vampire, and what better name for a darker than dark perfume with a blood red dripping rose and smouldering funk. Isn't it some sort of orgasm reference too? Not sure, but I think it's a very fitting name. Update: hmmmm now I'm an hour or so in, it's fallen a bit flat to be honest. It's a real shame as the opening was spectacular but, while it's still going strong, the drydown is getting a bit boring. I'd rather a perfume be more ephemeral than fall apart into something persistant but not great. I am now getting a strong, woody base that I know is gonna start to piss me off. It's beginning to remind me of the drydown of Toy Boy, which I can only stand until it properly dries down, then I run to scrub it off. Such a shame.

Natural rose Natural iris Natural castoreum Natural patchouli Natural oppoponax Natural labdanum The juice color is rich and yellow. Not many brands are using high quality naturals like this, and of course boosted with some synthetic materials I’m sure. No colorants have been added to the fragrances. The materials found in Les indemodables fragrances are the same materials used in Les abstraits, and the same perfumer. I mention this because it’s evident by the quality. Antoine Lie is very familiar with those materials, but now Antoine Lie is working under the creative direction of the brand owner who goes by the name Eugen. I’ll start off by saying there isn’t many 2022 releases I’ve tried, but this is the best by a mile. This does NOT smell like Frederic Malles Portrait of a Lady. 0% I’ve worn this everyday for 4 days straight and I can’t wrap my head around it, because I’m getting something new at different stages every time I wear it. Depending on temperatures outside and inside. That being said, iam picking up on every single note here. Every note takes a turn through out the wearing. Sometimes I get more rose. Sometimes I get more castoreum. Sometimes I get more resins. Sometimes I get more spice. Sometimes I get more patchouli. This fragrance is a chameleon, and because of the frequent changes I get excited to smell my arm to see what else I might pick up on. The main accords I get in order Floral Resinous Leathery Spices Powdery Smokey Animalic Natural Balsamic sweetness Amber Iam very excited to see what’s next. Congratulations and best of luck, eugen.

I have never rushed so quickly from "spritz the 2 mL sample atomizer" to "purchase a 100 mL bottle from the official website." I'm a sucker for counterintuitive (or downright naughty) rose-based fragrances. My main rotation includes Xerjoff's Deified and Ensar Oud's Rugosa. I'm happy to welcome La Douleur Exquise into my collection, where I intend to keep it in heavy rotation. La Douleur Exquise comes courtesy of Antoine Lie--a rock star perfumer in his own right--who has worked at houses ranging from Armani to Versace to E'tat Libre D'Orange to Les Indémodables. In this fragrance, our renegade genius presents a seemingly demur duo of Bulgarian and Turkish rose only to unleash their animalic wild side in short order (by way of an intoxicating amalgamation of castoreum, oppoponax, and labdanum); a devilishly smooth iris maintains this union as it all writhes and churns atop a mattress of patchouli. Over the course of his long and august career, Antoine Lie has created several classic fragrances, a few of which are bona fide household names. And yet, from Les Abstraits--an unlikely little scrappy startup (which I think was borne from a YouTube channel?)--emerges his arguable masterpiece. La Douleur is a celebration of the rose: its delicate beauty; its unflinching carnality; its 'come-and-get-some' appeal to all wearers without regard to sex, gender, or orientation; its bold projection that refuses to be ignored; and its subtle nuances that take hours to discover. This is what happens when an inspired concept is executed flawlessly. True art. 10/10.

As La Douleur Exquise is often compared to Portrait of a Lady, I’d like to explain why I don’t really see the similarity between them. Even though I own and enjoy POAL, I’d like to add LDE to my collection for a completely different take on the rose. First, there’s a kind of musty heaviness in POAL that I don’t find in LDE, which feels much airier and lighter. Second, POAL has a distinct sweetness coming from its fruity notes, while LDE strikes me as much drier and dustier. Third, the patchouli in POAL is far more pronounced, whereas in LDE it’s interwoven with a subtle castoreum note.The castoreum in LDE is by no means skanky or animalic; rather, it gives it an elegant edge. It’s used sparingly (though I clearly detect it) in a way that somehow enhances the fresh aspect of the rose. For me, the castoreum here is a game-changer. While POAL-beautiful as it is-can sometimes feel quite oppressive and over the top, LDE has a subtle elegance that makes it wearable for many different occasions. It’s already on my to-buy list for 2026, alongside Des Cendres. Belle Âme-another lovely creation by Lie-isn’t really within my scent profile. But if the brand ever decides to release smaller bottles, I might just pull the trigger on that one too.

Les Abstraits La Douleur Exquise (2022) - spicy-rose cashmere - It’s been quite awhile I was surprised by a scent. (If you have been checking my reviews, dear reader, I’ve been around.) With this #antoinelie perfume, the surprise isn’t in how it shocks you with brand new accords or ingredients not used in perfumery - but how excellent ingredients are used at such mastery that they evoke feelings of elegance and interest. Portrait of a lady, this is not. Starts with a spicy aromatic accord (cumin, clove, cinnamon) and this beautiful fresh, yet dark Rose. I also get smoky Incense, albeit at the background. While that is lovely, it is in the heart and drydown this fragrance shows its true gift. This is where the Rose shows restraint and gives way to Powdery Iris mixed with well-constructed white musks and Castoreum that creates a cashmere-like image upon the wearer. I also sense an oriental-amber base akin to Opium using Myrrh, Labdanum and Patchouli - a wonderful surprise. It’s as if Madam Chanel and Monsieur Beaux had their souls transfixed inspiring Mr. Nizic and Mr. Lie, as modern bastions of this style of perfumery. Versatile year-round and true artistry.

If the rose is the symbol for love, it feels like hope in the beginning, only to shrivel and dry the colour leaving its petals, then you're left with a shadow of what once was.. Eventually everything will change or won't last. Biggest surprise was how this brought forward emotion as I don't attach sentiments to my perfumes. I did find myself about to cry as the perfume was unfolding, finding the nuances in the notes and understanding why they were chosen, how it works in the composition. Lush roses, a bit of greenness. The spices and resins work together to lift the other. As it goes forward I get a bit more of a powdery patchouli. As a different (and excellent) reviewer has said, the castoreum seems to be the pillar, with everything moving around it, provides the shadow lurking in the background beautifully. On me, I find it incredibly nuanced. Subtle. For me subtlety is key.

Of the three Les Abstraits fragrances, La Douleur Exquise is, surprisingly, my favorite. I didn’t expect to fall for a spicy rose, but here we are! The opening is an incredible mix of fleshy, creamy, and textured rose, mingled with woodsy and animalic spices. There’s a wine-like quality to it, almost reminiscent of wooden barrels used to age wine, with leather, a generous dose of pepper, and a slightly sweaty cumin or castoreum note. Though the deep drydown flattens a bit—almost like a refined Toy Boy—it’s still thoroughly addictive. I can’t stop sniffing it. Let’s not ignore the obvious: yes, this bears a strong resemblance to Antaeus (and even Imitation Man by Amouage), but La Douleur Exquise strikes a much sweeter, more likable chord for me. It lacks that woody, aftershave vibe that Antaeus takes pride in. All in all, a gorgeous fragrance I hope to own someday.

Without learning of the background and inspiration behind its formulation, I found La Douleur Exquis to be a multi-rose floral blend with an effervescence in the beginning, expertly blended to reveal multi layers of earthiness and animalic depth that plays so well with the beguiling rose at the top. There's also a saltiness and almost a carnation floral that momentarily reminds me of Serge Lutens De Profundis; not in notes per se, but more in feeling, which has been linked to feelings of sadness, loss, and well, as the name suggests, heartache. Tears maybe? At any rate, it's not a completely dour or depressing emotion expressed. If anything, it's like the nostalgic feeling you get after reliving the good times, having since moved on. There's always beauty in what remains, if you're willing to look for it.

I can whole-heartedly relate to the theme of this perfume - "la douleur exquise" embodies much of my own pain that was gradually healed... Truly healing from love makes you extraordinary... if you believe it. I rarely wear rose perfumes but this is certainly a beautiful exception . For me, it iis all about the "rose" morphing into an earthly beam of light. I can hear, Eriks Esenvalds, " The Earthly Rose" playing in the background. The authenticity of this Bulgarian and Turkish rose is what captured my olfactory senses... I cannot deny that the animalic blend of labdanum and oppoponax is what finally captured me. Extraordinary work! Bravo, Eugen!

Ordered a sample after watching one of my favorite YouTube fragrance reviewers say how it’s one of the top rose/oud/patchouli combos. I had to sell my Oud Satin Mood ( too synthetic) and I barely wear POAL since it’s not an easy fragrance to wear on the daily or in high heat. LDE is absolutely stunning! I don’t get any oud from it but the rose and patchouli blend is so smooth. The rose lingers throughout the fragrance and the base is so addicting. Was still smelling it after waking up in the morning. I find this more wearable than Epic Woman as well. I can’t stop thinking about it.

Exquisitely balanced blend of highest quality naturals and ingredients. La Douleur Exquise is the brainchild of new parfumeur Eugen Nazic and the creative genius Antoine Lie. An ode to the pain of loss expressed as a veil rather than a blanket thanks to the freshness and clarity. Contemplative and transportive. Two rose varieties and iris beautifully spiced with cumin, cloves and saffron all rounded by myrrh. Anchored by patchouli, resins and cedar. Stunningly beautiful proof that pain can be understood and mastered.

I fell so in love with Des Cendres that I essentially overlooked this beautiful creation. I love this fragrance so much more than POAL, which I was always sort of lukewarm on POAL to begin with. It's that castoreum/rose that I find just stunning. Stunning! I already added Des Cendres to my Top 5, I'm a few more wearings away from adding La Douleur Exquise to the Top 5 as well.

Sparkling soda like effervescent rose similar to Oud Ispahan in the opening but then takes a different path towards vintage antaeus with a beautiful castoreum note but at the same time being its own distinct character throughout the entire experience. I am not the biggest fan of rose heavy perfumes but I enjoy this a lot. 8/10

One of the most beautiful rose fragrances I have ever smelled. I really dislike cumin and castoreum in fragrances, but here they offset the jammy rose superbly without making you smell like you forgot to shower for the last week. I can NOT stop sniffing my wrist.

Rose is usually tricky for me but this could be the Goldilocks of Rose fragrances - not too sour, not too sweet...just right. Rich velvety rose, spices, resins. Nothing loud or obnoxious though. It's tender, like a warm embrace from someone you cherish.

My sotd...This has been long awaited as I am already enjoying the high quality rose, wrapped in an animalic, chypre- envelope... A spicy shaving foam, resin and lovely powder...Lot's to unpack. Congrats, Eugen. ...the cumin be strong with this one.

Wow. This is good! This was a full bottle blind purchase for me. I wanted something more masculine than POAL (which I love) and this is it. It leans perfectly unisex. The rose + patchouli + animalics is amazing! The balance is perfection. 5/5.

If you want a excellant rose-oud buy this, if you want to smell like a grand ma, buy portrait of a lady

Basically angry Portait of a Lady + Antaeus combo. It's as good as it sounds.