Cuir de Chine

Seems like Vanille Havane (Vanilla,Coffee,Booze,Cream,Tobacco), Chypre Azural (Orange, Berries), Rose de Jamal (Rose,Mint), Cuir de Chine (Peach,Tea) and Fougère Emeraude (Tuberose, Mimosa) have quickly established themselves as my all-time reference point fragrances for these notes. Les Indémodables have stolen my heart with these five creations. Cuir de Chine is not a leather fragrance to me but the perfect Peach Tea fragrance. Possibly a failure in thematic context but a complete success in execution. However it does have a very Eastern Aura about it as the name suggests a "Chinese" leather - knowing their tastes in fresh fragrances I would believe it would appeal to people from the far Eastern regions of the world even more. On me it is Juicy, fruity, round with a slightly brisk and metallic tea sensation blended harmoniously with a bitter, woody, tobacco and mentholated, candied jasmine. Imagine a jug of freshly brewed peach tea brought outside one dewy, cool summer morning. Black earl grey leaves swimming throughout the volume of the jug like flakes of pulp, a syrupy aroma from the simple syrups, cane sugar and fruit jams emanate from the jug as it precipitates, evaporates in the early sunlight, and the massive slices of saturated candied peaches piled on top of one another at the base of the tea waiting to be fished out. That is this scent personified. All the notes in Cuir de Chine make a beautiful drinkable Néstea or Lipton Peach Iced Tea. The scent is refreshing and evokes the feelings of summer days, the beach, a sunbathed backyard scene with grills going off and people sharing stories over wooden tables and benches. I visualize a light-brown, tan or an ambery yellow-brown when I smell this scent. Although no peach and no tea are listed the Osmanthus is forced into its most luxurious form where these naturally unachievable facets of its character are displayed in a utopian olfactory perspective. No restraint but light, fresh, unique and successfully smooth and beguiling. Refreshing. This is perfectly unisex in feeling with very volatile but intimate inoffensive projection and should be referenced as the most photorealistic Peach Sweet Tea fragrance available. *Who needs Bitter Peach...* 🍑🧊☕️ 10/10

For me, this is the best leather fragrance out there. It is not your standard fragrance in the leather family. This is more like a cousin to the standard leather fragrances. I am not a big fan of the classic suffocating synthetic leathery notes that most commercial perfumers use in there leather based fragrances (tom ford ombré leather for example), this however is nothing like that. The leathery smell in this fragrance comes from the flower osmanthus, which in this fragrance truly is devine in, you can really feel that natural smelling flower, fruity with a touch of leather in it. And it is sooo classy, wearing this I am feeling like a rich man in a suit humid tepid autumn day. This is a soapy fresh/leathery smelling fragrance, very unique. This is a 10/10 for me. I think Les Indemodables is one of the best houses out there, with every fragrance holding up this outstanding quality and in almost every case uniqueness aswell. With their astounding (almost sauna like) DNA that can be found throughout most of their fragrances I dare say that Les Indemodables might be the best and highest quality brand in all Europe.

Reviewing a sample from 2024. Cuir de Chine was launched in 2016. This is a unique interpretation of a leather accord using Osmanthus. Elegant in it's simplicity. Cuir de Chine opens with juicy ripe apricots followed by Egyptian jasmine. The jasmine is not Sambac and so comes across delicate and nuanced. These accords then meld with mild Turkish tobacco, balsamic amber and a musky leathery Chinese Osmanthus resulting in the most unusual leather/suede scent; at times unreal like plastic and at others so soft and pliable you can almost touch it. There are no sharp notes here. Other than the opening it is not particularly fruity or sweet, nor is it smoky. It may not be an instant love but it has the potential to grow on you with it's calm self-possesed velvety touch. Quality- Excellent materials and blending Unisex- leans slightly masculine Performance- excellent Overall, this is a fascinating osmanthus fragrance but I don't see this being mass appealing. As a "soliflore" it will appeal to the purist as well as to those who appreciate the blending used to produce this unusual leather scent. 8.5/10

Interesting, unique, rich, complex. Perhaps the most cerebral of all the releases from Les Indemodables. Near the beginning, it smells 100% of the sticky dried buds of high-grade marijuana. That clary sage FUNK + tangy citrus + apricot fuzziness. I suppose it could also be interpreted as leather at this stage. After a few minutes, it begins to settle into the osmanthus-apricot-fruitiness. I also get a bit of mandarin orange at this stage. (It's clear that there are some accords that run through a LOT of these Les Indemodables: a sweet tangerine/orange, clary sage, ambergris.) Cuir de Chine's heart is very GREEN and very salty. In the heart notes, CdC smells distinctly of OLIVE. The flesh of the fruit and the fruitiness of olive oil... but also the green waxy leaves and grey bark... maybe even some brine. Osmanthus and olives (and jasmine, for that matter) are part of the same botanical family, but maybe this smell association is just my imagination. Lots of tobacco in the base. Beautiful. 4/5

I had no idea what to expect from Cuir de Chine based on the notes alone, but after a few wears I grew to immensely enjoy it, and it’s now at the top of my purchase list. What stands out most is the osmanthus, yet this is far from being an osmanthus-centered perfume. Instead, the note is used masterfully to evoke the scent of fresh leather. It isn’t too sweet or overly peachy; the fruity facet is present, but nuances of tobacco and clary sage smooth it out and keep the sweetness in check. It’s described as a 'fruity leather', which initially made me wary, as fruity notes can sometimes come across as synthetic smelling. Not here. Much like other creations by Les Indémodables, the materials smell exceptional. The fruitiness is restrained, not juicy but rather creamy, and the entire composition feels natural, refined, and beautifully balanced. A fantastic, highly sophisticated creation.

A leather you can wear in 100°F (38°C) weather. A warm humid olive-y citric osmanthus and a blonde tobacco unfurl a hay like accord plus this oud-y oiliness through the life of the fragrance. I don't think this is trying to be as unique as people maybe have made it out or so been told, in reference to the actual scent profile. I think this was just a pure study of the different facets of a high quality osmanthus. Jasmine+Osmanthus(floral) Clary Sage+Osmanthus(tea) Tobacco+Osmanthus(leather/hay). What I love the most about this fragrance is how easy it is to wear for any occasion. It's humble yet has a expensive sensibility which I can relate to. Also as a avid osmanthus oolong tea drinker this really hits that spot. Which is maybe why I grew more fond to Cuir de Chine than the drier plush fibrous Daim Blond or the spiced tea osmanthus from Maison Crivelli.

وجه تمایز این برند استفاده از مواد طبیعی خیلی کمیابه برای همین اولین بار که کاراشون رو تست می کنید به خودتون می گید چقد جدیده یه چیزایی تو نوتاش هست که تا حالا تو هیچ عطری بوشون نکردم کوئیر دو چین هم یکی از بهترین کارای ایندمودبله یه چرم لطیف زیبا دوست داشتنی با یه وجه میوه ای که شادابش می کنه و یه تاچ اروماتیک که حالت مردونه و جدی بهش می ده و با همه چرم هایی که تا حالا بو کردید متفاوتش کرده پخش و ماندگاری بالایی داره و اصلا دور و اطرافیان رو اذیت نمی کنه در واقع بیشتر از اینکه ساختارش نیش باشه از نظر کیفیت نیش حساب برای همین همه خوششون میاد 10 از 10

immediate impression is soft ripe osmanthus and supple armchair leather softened by age. I generally dislike leather fragrances but here the note is impossibly agreeable, with just a trace of smokiness like ash smudged on the interior of a well-worn lambskin coat. in fact I almost wish the leather note was less restrained–it defers ever-so-gentlemanly here to a peachy golden osmanthus, endowing it with a velvety body that reminds me of the suede of the back of calves, forearms, the nape of the neck,,, Really lovely and deliberate, if a tad subdued.

Solar, joyous osmanthus on a bed of soft suede. This is beautiful! I adore the smell of osmanthus flowers and this perfume captures it. Les Indemodables is about high quality, discreet perfumes, and Cuir de Chine is the one that fits that for me. An easy everyday perfume that also has enough depth and elegance to make interesting. I also really love Oriental Velours for its undercurrent of danger. Agree with A.Bandini below that this perfume line is about "heavenly skin scents". Which have their place in any wardrobe.

To me this is a truly beautiful perfume, crunchy, dry Tobacco leaves, jammy osmanthus and a bright jasmin note emphasizing the floral aspects of Osmanthus. The basenotes smell very Chypre-esque, with rose, sage (providing balsamic sophistication) and patchouli. The overall effect is extremely luxurious, a chiaroscuro chef-d'œuvre, balanced and refined, an instant classic fragrance, a masterful, timeless approach to the floral leather genre. Stunning.

This is a lovely osmanthus fragrance. It seems as if they took all the different nuances and facets of osmanthus (peachy, floral and swede) to create a slow progression with other notes from fruity- juicy and a bit tart in the top towards the floral and softly leathery heart and base. Smells very natural. I don’t get much explicit tobacco though it probably supports the swede accord. I have never smelled anything quite like this. Beautiful.

Mmm...I'm really enjoying the opening of Cuir de Chine by Le Inemodables. The osmanthus as mentioned is an apricot like suede that is the main player from the opening. There is a green tobacco leaf as well as a slight floral from the jasmine, but it's extremely well balanced and I could definitely wear this year round. An excellent fragrance overall, just brilliant.

One of the smartest osmanthus perfumes I've ever experienced. It's constantly changing and evolving on my skin. Sometimes there is the suede note from osmanthus, other times it is floral and carries a chic softness in a non-cloying way. Comfortably unisex and doesn't make any private parts bigger (a plus for some)

Lovely. Gentle whispers of leather, florals, and agrestics with something slightly smoky in the background. Makes me imagine a cowboy waking up at a campsite in the wilderness just before dawn. The world is still asleep, and the air is cold and damp. All is still and the mind is clear.

@parnian.kh couldnt agree with you more. all of the scents from this house had been done very well .

So good. That tobacco mixes w osmanthus this brand is so great

Another misnamed perfume from Les Indemodables. China Leather has very little to do with leather and a lot more to do with florals and sweet tobacco. The opening notes give somewhat of an impression of leather thanks to the sage note and the guava aspects of osmanthus. The very herbal and almost incense like note of the sage in tandem with a ripe guava-type note from the osmanthus create a sort of chemical accord reminiscent of that from freshly tanned leather, but without any of the animalic/castoreum-type notes skulking underneath required to give a full and convincing leather accord. It's quite striking and interesting without being off-putting in the way chemical-type notes tend to be. When those dry down the stage is taken up by indolic jasmine and the big pink fruit rose-type note of osmanthus. There is a roundness to the heart that does have a bit of muskiness to it thanks to the jasmine, somewhat calling to mind the fleshy density of leather, but it is without a doubt decidedly fruity floral. It's exceptionally pretty without ever really announcing itself in big, overly sweet or fruity, peppery, or bright ways that jasmine or rose-type notes tend to do; the osmanthus is confident, rich, and elegant, but the sweet fruitiness and honeyed floral aspects are understated, powdery, and gentle in the way the best osmanthus accords tend to be. Leather though, it is not. With a bit more time, a sweet and hay-like cured tobacco note at the base makes itself more apparent, clearing up in my mind that some of the earthy sweetness that was in the heart of the perfume came from this floral and cured tobacco note. I must admit that I am thoroughly enjoying it, even though it is not at all what I expected it to be. I suppose if I read anything about it prior to wearing it, and took into consideration that LI rarely give you in the perfume what they put on the bottle label, I wouldn't have been as surprised as I am. But alas, here I am, thinking I was going to be wearing an Eastern spiced - perhaps floral - leather, and instead I'm wearing a fruity floral tobacco perfume. If there was an actual fully-fledged leather accord in here, I would very probably be looking to add it to my collection. But, there isn't. So, I have to ask myself what do I think of Cuir de Chine as a fruity floral osmanthus-forward perfume, and I have to say that it's really good in that regard. But, I don't find myself wanting it over my bottles of Osmanthus Interdite, Osmanthe Yunnan, the Different Company's Osmanthus, Ormond Jayne's Osmanthus, etc., etc. I almost forgot how many osmanthus perfumes I have. Perhaps if LI really leaned-into the leathery facets of the osmanthus by actually giving us a full-on skanky leather accord, Cuir de Chine would stand out in the pack of osmanthus perfumes in a way that many do not, but LI didn't, and so while it's a thumbs-up from me I cannot say I'm compelled.

Personal: 7/10 - I expected to hate it, but it's actually kinda wearable and not... bad. Mass appeal: 6.5/10 - Leather scents always polarize people, and this one is no exception. Performance: 7/10 - Average, which is disappointing considering the notes. Value: 3/10 - Over $300 for something particularly mediocre is heinous. Uniqueness: 7/10 - It's not often I smell an osmanthus fragrance, but it's balanced unlike some leather fragrances. SCORE: 61/100 Full bottle buy? NO, not at this price. Blind buy? NO, osmanthus leather isn't blind-buy safe as it's particularly herbal leather. Recommend? YES, if you want something a bit leathery-herbal and fruity without smokiness. Date night? YES, it's a smooth romantic vibe, but don't overspray this one. Office safe? NO, too leathery and bold for the office. Pros: Smooth, wearable, herbal-ish take on leather. Well blended. Smoothed out by fruits. Cons: Hideously expensive, not THAT unique, and not universally likable. I expected to hate it given I don't appreciate osmanthus as a note, but I don't mind it here. It's a more vegetal, herbal leather to my nose, but the presence of fruity accords helps to balance it out. It's fairly smooth, a bit unique, and pleasant enough that MOST people will enjoy you wearing it. Just be careful, as this one could be very cloying if oversprayed. It's not a sharp, smoky, or otherwise offputting leathery fragrance. Some may appreciate it. A leather I don't hate. But I also don't really like. Not sure when I'd reach for it. *Review #29 in my fragrance journey - this fragrance I own as a decant*

Ever since I smelled osmanthus incense at a Japanese store, I’ve been obsessed with the flower, and sprung for a pollen-colored perfume oil at the local renaissance faire. There’s just something special about it, as very few florals are so raw and green. To me it’s like a combination of oakmoss, davana, stone fruit, white/yellow florals, and a sour animalic element. Cuir De Chine is nearly a 1:1 representation of that pure floral note, a natural osmanthus soliflore with highlights that subtly compliment the accord. I detect an extra fruity sweetness and hint of cooling menthol. There is also a dirty-earthy base, I assume the tobacco, but it’s barely distinguishable from the mossy aroma of the real thing. The resulting perfume is absolutely lovely without being overpowering, perfect for warmer weather. Quite weak though, lasting maybe an hour on me, so I’d sooner recommend buying osmanthus absolute from a perfumery supplier to dilute in a carrier oil. It's slightly more affordable, and oils last a little longer on skin. Still, this is a lovely bottle and scent, a worthy indulgence if you enjoy the complexity of natural scents.

From website: Chinese Osmanthus alcoolat Grand Cru 10%, Egyptian late-crop Jasmine absolute Grand Cru 1%, Chinese Osmanthus absolute 1%, Turkish Mild Tobacco absolute 0.2% Contains Clary Sage oil from the Alps* The leather note is very intense at the beginning (for about 30 minutes), but then mellows down and takes a back seat (once that is done it is a very refined leather note). The jasmine is evident throughout and so is the osmanthus. Those two notes blend beautifully to create this fruity-floral accord that never becomes too sweet or adolescent. What keeps it interesting is the addition of musk in the base (which is not mentioned so it must be part of the bases that the house uses). Alas, besides musk there is Ambroxan, which shows up later on at deep drydown, but when it does it takes over and it's all one can smell. In some way, it reminds me of Nuit de cellophane (i.e. fruity-floral-musk). The main difference being that Nuit stays in a warmer region, whereas CdC despite being more multifaceted (especially with the tobacco adding another dimension) ends up bitter due to the ambroxan. Wonderful composition ruined.