Immortelle Solaire

If you want to smell real immortelle in a perfume, presented as you’d find it in nature, but given the proper adornments of a small cast of other characters to adulate it even further, look to Immortelle Solaire. It’s a gorgeous piece of work, and I’m thrilled it actually smells of immortelle (have Les Indemodables finally gotten over whatever-they-were-doing with the false names? So it seems, thankfully). The initial sniffs reveal an immortelle drenched in bright and hot sunlight. The immortelle overall is earthy, pleasantly and roundly spicy, a touch vanillic, and strikingly similar to fenugreek except bone dry and absent much of the sweetness. The “heat of sunlight” over the top instantly strikes you; it was so dry and coarse it made my throat close up a tiny bit in anticipation of a cough! I’m honestly not sure what’s achieving this. It’s new to me and I can’t pinpoint it. Part of that is due to this “note’s” extremely short life, making it very hard to study - unless you respray and respray, which is highly ill-advised - before notes of hazelnut, the same beautiful hazelnut material they used in Patchouli Noisette it seems, dehydrated fruit, and patchouli, the patchouli also from PN, join the immortelle to adorn it with exquisite gifts. Immortelle is a bit green and herbal, spicy, very dry, and licorice-like in its natural state. Thanks to the hazelnut there is a nutty, white, and unctuous quality to it, which immortelle is naturally missing. Thanks to the fruit there is a very pleasant, and not all cloying, rounded sweetness and slightly gourmand quality to it, which immortelle is naturally missing. Thanks to the patchouli there is deep and dark earthiness of loamy topsoil that gives an even more distinct impression of an arid but fertile landscape, which immortelle doesn’t necessarily naturally replicate. In the final dry down the patchouli and a good dose of styrax take more of the stage, but the immortelle plays on, which gives the final skin scent a beautiful leather note - high quality from the best of Italian tanneries heated in the Mediterranean sun. But, throughout Immortelle Solaire’s life, it is thoroughly and convincingly immortelle - just shown a lot of love. Some may bemoan the perfume’s more linear and monodimensional nature, and LI generally speaking don’t go for grand and operatic and story-telling perfumes it’s true, but it does what Les Indemodables and Antoine Lie together are proving time and time again to be masters of: ignoring no space or detail. The balance of darkness and light, earthiness and greenness, gourmand and animalics, gives Immortelle Solaire a symmetry and completeness that we simply very rarely get in perfumes today. I am completely and totally won over by this perfume. I can’t stop my arms and hands from going to my nose, and I want the aroma to never end. Stunning.

There are no surprises here, no cheap synthetics; the scents are original and truly timeless, as well as long-lasting. With Antoine Lie as the perfumer, miracles happen in such a comfortable creative nest. For months now, Immortelle Solaire has been fascinating me. It was wonderful in +30°C heat, but also in the cool autumn days. As a lover of the immortelle (helichrysum) note, I initially felt that in this perfume it was moderate, even delicate — as if candied fruits, sweets, and spices had taken olfactory control. Yet everything was in balance; nothing about it is gourmand or overly sweet. Nor is it balsamic. It is the scent of hot Mediterranean stone, of sun-warmed wood and dry earth. From the heart of limestone, bushes of yellow immortelle flowers — Helichrysum arenarium, the eternal flower — burst forth. I thought, even feared, that in Immortelle Solaire the immortelle would wilt with sadness once the sun began to turn its back on it. The opposite happened: the perfume embraced autumn even more intoxicatingly, the immortelle note intensified, still wrapped in the sweetness of spices and dried fruits. It was joined by something nutty, velvety, and lightly smoky — misty, almost. And yet, the bottle has captured the sun’s rays: it’s as if the fragrance absorbed the energy of light and a touch of summer nostalgia, weaving a patina of summer’s immortality into the opulent melancholy of autumn. I’m enchanted by this elegant, ethereal, and warm scent — soothing, restorative, opening up sunlit craters within me, becoming part of who I am. Is that my signature scent smiling at me? Perhaps, perhaps 😊

Just because I haven’t been raving about recent releases from Les Indemodables that us in no way a reflection of my excitement at every new release and despite the last few not really blowing my skirt up, they have been consistently fantastic in quality and intent. Les Indemodables is a special brand and this is a special perfume. The opening of the immortelle is mollases thick and almost as sweet but balanced with a dark aniseed note, it’s rooty and earthy like liquorice. It’s almost gourmand nutty, caramel facets become sort of leathery and more what I know from Immortelle perfumes. This clearly has a thickness and a nod to white florals, perhaps a glug of jasmine? The experience starts to get that characteristic curried note in the drydown, and just gets deeper, warmer, lightly animalic, pissy, tanned leather but oddly floral. I bought this sample in the summertime and I’m not one to say that a certain perfume doesn’t ‘work’ in certain conditions, however I remember thinking... I can’t wear this I’m this heat, it’s such a thick, fisherman’s wooly jumper of a fragrance there’s no way I can appreciate and love it under these circumstances. However, I persevered, I wore it. It was fantastic in the heat, less is more I would say but the heat made it open up. Now, my favourite Immortelle is Histoires Marquis de Sade, and couldn’t be more different to this, I’d call it savoury to Solaire’s sweet. You can tell the raw material is so multifaceted and shows off all of it in this creation. I thought it was BRILLIANT!!!

Immortelle Solaire makes me dream about exploring the Mediterranean maquis, where rocky crags are carpeted with sunny disc-shaped helichrysum flowers. It smells of a golden glow, warm and immersive. Here, Antoine Lie advances the licorice aspect of immortelle, that woody, bittersweet rooty quality, while the maple characteristic, while evident, is just a bit more restrained here. It smells more akin to flowers themselves than from the oil and absolute distillation from the plants. The candied fruit accord along with usage of hazelnut reminds me a bit of fruitcake—and let it be known that I actually love fruitcake (spare me the jokes!). It slowly moves from rich and unctuous to dry and wistful over time. There is a tanned leather that includes a savory, phenolic styrax in the dry down. What I love about this and a number of releases from Les Indemodables is the 'in media res' approach—in the midst of its concept, inviting one into the setting, the action, magnetically drawing in the wearer.

My sample just arrived. Another banger from Les Indemodables. They consistently find ways to take my money. Licorice and dried fruits are clearly present against the syrupy, dry, herbaceous qualities of immortelle. Leathery, maybe smoky/gritty facet if I put my nose close. The patchouli in the base is quite nice in the drydown. Comes off quite aromatic and sweeter than I was expecting. It isn't TOO sweet though, certainly well balanced compared to other immortelle fragrances that lean into the syrupy qualities of it. Unisex leaning masculine in my opinion. It doesn't instantly remind me of any other fragrance at the moment. MAYBE a hint of Serge Lutens La Proie Pour L'Ombre purely because of the fairly fleeting licorice note I get in the opening.

And you know what? Its there, after long time another fragrance where someone tried to excell, its different, its bold, its unique, its animalic, randy, sultry sensual, it can justify its price tag. Literally I can not describe what components are there or if and how they change from opening to end, but I like it whole time. I want this to my collection! You are in classic red cabrio Mercedes 380SL - 1980s same as Bobby Ewing's drove in Dallas. Sunny afternoon on a cliff above sea in southern Italy driving down from your estate, brown brushed leather seats, wood-paneled dashboard, rounded yellow-brown tinted sunglasses. I like this classical vibe it emits! Maybe you are music producer..who knows but everyone cares and opposite sex wants you.

Antoine Lie absolutely nails it with this one. Immortelle Solaire is rich, sweet, and beautifully multifaceted, with so much texture and depth. It opens with a bright, almost candied glow before settling into something warmer, spicier, and more textured. The immortelle gives it a distinctive golden quality, while a subtle leathery edge adds contrast and keeps the sweetness beautifully balanced. It feels both polished and slightly untamed. Les Indémodables has quickly become one of my favorite houses. I have so much respect for the quality of their materials, the craftsmanship, and the way everything is blended with such intention.

Welcome to a beautiful pancake syrup immortelle! As soon as Lucky Scent had it I blind bought a bottle. I am a huge fan of immortelle and I love that it is the absolute star in this perfume. On my skin, it is lightly dry floral sweet. This is what I want to wear on a cool overcast Fall day. The patchouli and hazelnut are similar to Patchouli Noisette, but they are much lighter as a base for the immortelle to radiate and shine. Nice sillage, but sits pretty close to the skin forming an amazing scent bubble for close encounters. It smells even better close up. If you’re an immortelle fan, this is a no brainer for a full bottle.

Immortelle Solaire captures warm, earthy comfort in a bottle. It carries the subtle sweetness of ripe immortelle, which—to my nose—translates into a beautiful blend of toasted turmeric and dried chamomile tea. It leans into the gourmand category through that savory-sweet spice, yet remains airy enough for the sillage to waft gently on a breeze. Truly a grounding, soul-soothing scent. The leather note listed is barely there.

I love immortelle and I love this fragrance. This goes more maple syrup than curry, but I don't find it overly sweet. My overall impression is a fragrance that leans to the spicy/dry side. It reminds me a bit of Little Song by Meo Fusciuni.

Extremely nostalgic late summer/early fall scent. Not sure what it is about it, but it just reminds me of a sunny fall day outside.

Stop likening it to perfumes before it's even been under any nostrils, you absolute fools.

Such a unique and happy scent, very hard to describe , its so complex and so so good

I can’t describe what I’m smelling exactly but I’m obsessed with it!

agreed with @ iggii very unique fragrance , 8/10

Immortelle Solaire The current hype. It’s certainly unique in that it’s not that dusty books from the library immortelle I’ve seen a smooth and beautiful immortelle before in Radical Rose Extrait. This immortelle is different though it’s not here to accentuate anything it’s the star of the show. Believe me, for immortelle to be the star is a lot of pressure it’s a tricky ingredient. Immortelle Solaire showcases the beautiful ingredient extracted with their labs tech. It’s got some spices to keep things interesting and then some sweetness while the immortelle is uniquely clean smelling and smooth this is the beauty and 1740 marquis de sade is the beast. Smells green and yellow to me fresh enough for the spring and summer evenings interesting enough for fall and winter days. Could be a signature for someone given it’s uniqueness and versatility you could dress this up or down. One of the best releases of the house. I haven’t decided whether it’s a like or a love will vote after further testing. Given how fragrances are just drowning the market at least we have a show of quality and innovation which is head and shoulders above most brands. To describe this in this in three words sweet herbal leather. I doubt this is an instant love for most people but probably more of something that will seduce you over time with the large sample I have, I should be concerned. If I could make a note to the brand few reviewers and I seem to share the opinion of the lack of emotion in the fragrances. High quality ingredients with solid execution yet most feel a little austere coupled with the moderate projection I do feel them leaning into “Let them eat cake” territory regardless of the historical accuracy. But hey, if you’re elegant austere and are looking for an excellent fragrance with reserved sillage this is your brand. The discovery set is insane value and will make for many joyful reflective evenings at home or sniff and sip tea with your friends at a local cafe. Something in that set will surprise you. If this fragrance was a 100ml it would be decent value too. Happy sniffing.

Immortelle is one of my favourite perfume notes. Immortelle Solaire is a sweet, chewy, brown immortelle with an intense molasses sugar aspect — almost cacao- or coffee-like — where you'd expect the usual boozy rum note to be. It's murky and interesting, complex and rewarding like a tobacco perfume. There's a definite note of crème brûlée and as with other intensive immortelle perfumes it's blond-leathery, here amplified by styrax. The rawness of the opening becomes more pleasant and polished as it dries down, eventually ending with a little added woodiness in the base. Definitely for the late Autumn-Winter season. Ultimately the main accord is too overtly sweet for me and I prefer my other immortelle perfumes. Something else is holding me back and it's the same thing that didn't quite land with me with Patchouli Noisette from this house: a persistent, oily hazelnut. If you're open to molasses and nuts with your immortelle then do take a look at this one: the quality of the ingredients is exceptional.

Rich, chocolatey molasses that opens a little herbal and softens over time, becoming smoother and creamier as the licorice heaviness fades, leaving behind a leathery base that’s nutty, and lightly smoky. The immortelle has qualities not dissimilar to those found in the myrrh of Oriental Velours, but this is much denser and without the earthy greenness that makes velours so intriguing. I think it's a beautiful and accurate representation of what can be done to highlight immortelle in all it's glory, but I do find it heavy to wear and would only reach for it on the darkest of winter days. Perhaps that is the intention.

Whoa. I’ve never encountered the immortelle flower and this fragrance comes across as quite surprising and unusual. It’s warm and sweet but herbal and spicy and just hard for me to characterize. It’s almost like a spice cake if all of the cake aspects were replaced with an herbal aperitif? Really interesting. Will definitely be one to return to in cool weather.

Keeping it simple... like all of the house’s creations, this one is beautifully made. However, Immortelle Solaire feels a bit too sophisticated for me 😅. I don’t have much experience with immortelle, so take that into account. Still, I’ll definitely enjoy the rest of my sample!