Oriental Velours

Oriental Velvet is a case study in textures, but it's a study of 3D, not a 2D texture you palpate. Whether or not this smells the way velvet feels is going to be a purely subjective abstraction determined by the wearer and the abilities of their nose, but I have to say that I'm convinced. When I see and feel velvet, there is a density to it that barely lets any light come through. The density also brings a shine to it, as the light that cannot penetrate bounces off of the rich color of the tightly woven fabric more than something like cotton or linen; it's silken in that way. Speaking of silk, there is a very plush feel to velvet that makes you want to caress it and find the gaps, but you never do because it always feels seamless and without any palpable edges or fibers. Despite its density, it is lighter in weight but without feeling fleeting. Unlike silk that can drape over you in a near weightless way to an extent you might not even notice it, there is body and weight to velvet that imparts the texture of the silk but with a swaddling comfort. Over the top of the perfume - and I do mean over the top, a couple feet away from the skin you applied it to - there is a sheen in the air of an absolutely gorgeous jasmine note. The typical whiteness of jasmine is here more radiantly golden in color, a gentle orange sun reflecting off of it, and in lacking that crisp floral-citrus whiteness we are used to it is, instead, beautifully indolic and musky. Below this golden and radiant sheen swirls a thicker and denser layer of cool myrrh smoke and vetiver aromatics, perfectly balanced between green and resinous, rooty/woody notes, and incense smoke. As if the myrrh and vetiver were gently smoldering in a draft-less room, their smoke hovers in the air occupying the entirety of the space. The jasmine with its beautiful light-filled sheen, and the myrrh and the vetiver with their space-filling silken smoke tendrils, work beautifully to give the perfume a smooth, full, and supple texture. Perfectly stitched to the underside of this layer is yet a denser and more seamless layer of balsams and vanilla, giving the whole of the perfume the comforting weight of a luxurious and dense fabric. In the end what we have is a floral amber, and you'll find plenty of examples out there of florals working with green aromatics working with balsams and vanillics. Where Les Indemodables does something different for the genre is by giving us a perfume focused on two aspects often overlooked: texture and detail. In most perfumes these aspects are sacrificed for complexity, longevity, or to squeeze a particular accord into a perfume for the sake of ticking a market-trend box. Les Indemodables and Dubois sacrificed no aspects in creating Velours as far as my nose can tell. The materials are heavenly and decadent, rich yet diffusive, and they are blended to an exceptional level of texture with no detail or space between the notes overlooked. I'm having that involuntary reaction I sometimes get of failing to stop my arms and the backs of my hands from going to my nose at any moment to get one more intoxicating hit. I would be hard pressed to argue against this being the best perfume Les Indemodables has released to date, and that bar was already very high.

Names bear meaning and the key here is in the noun "velours": this is an attempt to re-interpret the oriental fragrance genre. Made in 2016 by @odorescence - I believe - Oriental Velours is thought as "A bewitching sensual fragrance for lovers of rare, high-quality fabrics." (from @les_indemodables_officiel website). The fabrics would connect with the word "velours": a very peculiar, soft and sophisticated scent that envelopes you like the best luxurious garnment. While someone claimed this is a very simple scent, I find that it possesses a strong creative bias. And there is nothing simple in working with the viscosity of myrrh, vetiver, and spruce. The opeing is dominated by a refreshing spruce trully invigorating with some other aromatic notes perhaps. There are very brief moments in which I detect an almost "edible" component which reminds me of Fille en Aiguilles (in my palais version). The use of spruce is genious because it pay homage to the Alps - a defining characteristic of the brand - and build a bridge from West-to-East, so that we can gently be introduced to an enchanted forest dominated by vetiver and myrrh. It is the myrrh note the star of the show: it truly shines here in all its facets: bitter, with all earthy undertones: It is resinous and fungal, medicinal and astringent. I do not get any licorice undertones or cola vibes. The sacred does not smell "pretty"... The myrrh is joined by a cocktail of spices brilliant and with a noticable sensual component. It can be nutmeg and cardamome? I know not. An important part is played by the jasmine wich comes green, freshy, and grassy in concordance with the greenness of the spruce. The jasmine works in synergy with the myrrh to highlight the fungal and earthy aspects, but it also soften the vetiver in a very clever way (like for instance the iris can do only to a lesser degree in Vetiver Oriental by Lutens). I think I detect some smokiness (olibanum?). The vetiver imparts warmths and hearthiness, while the vanilla soften things out. A perfume to defy genre stereotype. please consider following me on IG @alexolympia6

Oriental Velours opens with a strikingly original interplay of myrrh and jasmine, immediately setting a mystical tone. The jasmine here is not your typical floral—it leans into its earthy, almost fungal facets, creating a curious and compelling contrast with the bitter, resinous myrrh. There's a cool, green edge from spruce and mint-like herbs (possibly rosemary or fennel pollen), evoking the sensation of walking through a damp, aromatic forest at dusk. As the fragrance develops, the myrrh deepens, but it never becomes heavy or cloying. Instead, it’s lifted by a textural interplay—a kind of olfactory illusion where dense resins seem to float like mica dust in the air. This is where Oriental Velours truly shines: it’s resinous yet airy, bitter yet soft, with a peppery, smoky fog reminiscent of fireworks or incense smoke. The base is grounded by Haitian vetiver, which adds a damp, earthy richness that complements the myrrh beautifully. The green vanilla from Madagascar lends a subtle sweetness, but it’s never gourmand—more like a whisper of warmth in the background. The overall effect is meditative, mysterious, and texturally complex. - Longevity: 7–9 hours - Projection: Moderate (intimate but noticeable) - Sillage: Soft, with a lingering trail that feels like incense smoke dissipating in cool air Oriental Velours is not a crowd-pleaser in the traditional sense—it’s introspective, cerebral, and quietly powerful. It’s a fragrance for those who appreciate olfactory storytelling, where each note unfolds like a chapter in a mythic forest tale. If you enjoy myrrh-forward compositions with a twist of green, coniferous freshness, this is a must-try. 9 out of 10.

Ah, Oriental Velours. This is a hidden gem. In my own perfume collection, I’ll forget about it for months at a time, but I’ll inevitably come back to it and fall in love all over again. It is undeniably strange and unbalanced, yet I find myself craving it. There is nothing sweet, cozy, or traditional about it, yet it is comforting and easy to wear. It’s a fairly linear composition, the only big moment for me is the opening which is a blast of dry, smoky myrrh. After that opening blast subsides, it hums along steadily for hours, hitting a sweet spot of noticeable projection that is never overpowering or stifling. My association with it is not so much forests or green as others have said. I don’t think of it as green perfume at all. My primary image is of a spice market, in the distance. Perhaps, turning a corner onto an unknown street, you begin to catch whiffs of smoke, cinnamon, saffron, cumin, coriander- just faintly, wafting through pure, dry desert air. You know the market is nearby, maybe a quarter mile away, but you can’t see it yet. So I guess, imagine all the spices and richness of an amber perfume, but from a distance, or through a grayish filter. Everything is subtle suggestion, it intrigues and leads you on, as you inhale deeply, trying to follow these wisps of scent to their source. Underlying all these nuances, myrrh and vetiver are the foundation of this perfume. Vetiver doesn’t always work on my skin but here it really does. It’s not vegetal, rooty or green, more woody and smoky with a delicate papery quality. In the end, Oriental Velours is a sparse, unusual composition that ends up being so much much more than the sum of its parts.

Pay close attention if you are drawn to raw, earthy, bitter, medicinal elements in scent as much as I am. If the smell of mushroomy, astringent myrrh resin with no gussying up or if spruce tips tea delights you, stop right there. Does a walk in the woods appeal to you more than a busy city street? Where are my people who closely examine mounds of moss, marvel at the beauty of fruticose lichens that grow from the boughs of trees? By the way, if you see a lot of that growing, you know that clean air abounds. Oriental Velours (Velours d'Orient) reveals the truth the sacred isn't always pretty, but its smells sure can set one's senses adrift. It opens with the synergy of myrrh and jasmine, both revealing their aromatic as well as fungal aspects, curiouser and curiouser, while all of its voluptuousness collapses dramatically into a spruce thicket (conifer terpenes, wooosh!). It's now the myrrh synergizing with the spruce oil, a beautifully cool bite in the heart, softened only by the slightest vanillic undertones. I get images of an alpine loft in late winter, almost spring, and that stark quiet from the snow dampening all sound, I am just below the treeline. Then there comes some warmth, a hearth is kindled, and this is where the myrrh synergizes with the vetiver. It all comes together like a puzzle, this is the feeling of unadorned nature, a perfume that defiantly resists perfume tropes, but somehow has a coziness and comfort that refutes its apparent initial rough edges. Absolutely brilliant.

This fragrance is DREAMY. Everything from this house is of the highest quality and perfect concepts everytime, from the three I've tried I'm enamoured by all of them. Oriental Velours is probably the most accurately myrrh based fragrance you will find. If you love the raw material then this will excite you. If you love a warm, oriental cuddle of a scent...this will excite you. If you want a smooth musky scent, this one will engage you. I thought it was brilliant. It's not you're usual balsamic either but has nods towards classic oriental perfumes without feeling at all derivative, musk and vanilla/amber sweetness are evoked in the opening before drying down to a more medicinal, herbal myrrh note which is perfectly balanced so it doesn't become too dominant (quite hard when trying to make it stand out but not dominate.) I love this but I think I preferred Musc des Sables for my collection but I'd defintely consider this in future for sure.

Rich incense and amber upfront. Projection is highest here. It is definitely the house Les Ind amber but toned down just a bit from Ambre Supreme. There is a hint of tree sap and then a subtle intermittent waft of gasoline. I don’t find the floral note prominent. I don’t get anything rubbery or medicinal at all. This is spice shop with an old Triumph motorcycle in the corner. Dry down is 10+ hours. I can find it 24 hours after applying. The amber is the star here and it settles down but never leaves. The myrrh and evergreen notes weave in and out. I love Vetiver and have a nose for hit but it’s buried here to me. Les Indemodables is my favorite house for amber. If Ambre Supreme is a *get-noticed* sweaty summer night or gothy winter favorite and Escale En Indonesie is my office friendly Spring Summer amber then this is somewhere in between. All the Les Ind natural amber in mid potency. Lovely stuff. FB worthy.

This fragrance is supposed to represent the texture of velvet, and I can see where that idea comes from. But to me, the texture feels closer to suede - not in terms of smell (this is not a suede fragrance), but in the way it comes across: soft, slightly matte, and a bit more muted than plush velvet. It wasn’t love at first sniff for me. It took some time to really appreciate it, but now I see how good it is. The myrrh is beautiful, but what really stands out is the spruce - it gives it a slightly fresh, almost forest-like twist that makes it different. There’s also vetiver adding a dry, green touch. And yes, this is definitely on the dry side. Not sweet, not crowd-pleasing in an obvious way. More calm, a bit meditative even. I’ve seen people mention it’s relaxing, and I agree.

#694 in my "Tour de Fragrance" This is the seventh scent I'm trying in the set of 12 Les Indemodables samples I purchased. So far every one has been a bottle worthy scent and this is the best so far. The Myrrh here is amazing and blending it with spruce, vetiver and jasmine really gives it some punch. Solidly unisex. 6-8 hours on the skin, moderate projection for a few hours. If you're car pooling or working with others in a close space this could get to be a bit much if you don't go easy. I'd definitely wear this on a romantic occasion. If you've tried and like Montale's Full Incense or All Saints Incense City this will be a winner for you.

So, so, so, so delectable. Myrrh in all its glory. Cold, stoney, medicinal, petrol, Dr. Pepper, fizzy, aldehydic, dark, coniferous, green, bitter, mushroomy, earthy, a ribbon of jasmine woven through, licorice-y, clean, meditative, understated, stylish. 4.5/5 PS: Extremely similar to Myrrhe 55 by Le Labo. The main difference is that Oriental Velours dries down to a warmer, resinous amber; while Myrrhe 55 becomes a slightly oud-y, slightly salty musk.

Total stunner that’s all gooey chocolate caramel, chewy and resinous, but somehow still smooth as silk. Shifts a little herbal and softly liquorice-like, with a hint of vanilla peeking through. Vetiver rolls in quietly at first, like earthy coffee grounds, before going full smoky, sappy and green in the drydown. Hours later, it clings close to skin, caught in a dance-off between green earth and soft myrrh. Neither wins. We do.

This is like being in a cozy blanket that’s been stored in a straw basket in a monastery absorbing all the gorgeous yak butter based resins and incense burnt there. This smells very calming and professionally blended. Reminds of the deep, unsweetened, sappy thickness, and velvety dry down of Enslaved by Roja Parfums. Very nice, and the high quality is obvious throughout the experience.

I love the opening; massive attack of myrrh with backup spruce smelling-like-pine notes. Dry down turns into a powdery amber with dry vanilla pods. This ends up as a wonderful not too sweet amber. If money were not an issue I would not hesitate throwing it down. If you love amber scents, and are looking for something different Oriental Velours might do the trick.

Most interesting textured fragrance I have ever smelled, bright sweet greens over chewy brown with the faintest hint of something floral to smooth it out. Vetiver here is fresh and crisp, keeps the fragrance light. Surprisingly wearable for Les Indemodables's most unique offering.

So far the most interesting of the Les Indemodables line. Intense, myrrh-centered amber with flashes of green. Really intriguing.

Not being discontinued - just less frequent production. Restock in the coming months. (I asked Remi)

(Batch from 2022, blind buy) First Wear (Opening - 1st hour) I think I enjoy this one even more. It starts from Mud & Mushroom with Sweet Green Jasmine. (2nd Hour - 3rd Hour) Before it become very natural incense. Airy and Floaty. It is slightly more herbaceous than Cathedral incense. I think you could you this as one of your witchy fantasy. I don't read this fantasy but.. the way it smell natural. Can't help but the actual portion pot of witch. Solemn. (3rd Hour) The big transit happen. I don't notice this in first impression. But it become like "Lotus". It have a "Lotus" feel to it like the one in Zoologist Scared Scarub. But this is very clean cold water lotus. If something to do with Myrrh and Floral? At 6 hours. it is still linger. And it linger.. as a powdery milky myrrh with soft smoke quality. Very enjoy. I crave another visit. So soon. ===== First Impression (Unknown date record between March - May 2025) At very first glance, when I blind-brought Oreintal Velours. I have already known that Les Indemodables is a quality house. Who produce a fragrance base on high-dose of refine natural material as a canvas. I blind-brought this as I love old-world amber and incense solely. When I open a cap, I feel shock a bit. Because the aroma I perceive is how natural Myrrh behave. It difference from another 3. I visit earlier, Musc des Sables — Rose de Jamal — Ambre Supreme. I fall for how muchroomy and grassy it is. When I first applied, It is Thick. Like it leave a patch of deep brownish oil on my skin. I never try a perfume that leave a dense oil patch on skin like this. It feels so natural. I was thought that Rose de Jamal is natural already. But like, this leans more Artisan-side of thing. A world where people put pure natural to make a fragrance. Compose with really lite touch of aroma chemical. I don’t expect to smell something like this. It's deep dark myrrh for sure. But not like a perfumery dark (a note with Amber Incense like one in TomFord or Xerjoff). But it deep dark dense wet by the Concentrate of Myrrh itself. It becomes Mushroom and Glass with soft dusty. It lightly decorate with amount of vanilla and Jasmin so like to merge in to myrrh and drowning as time pass by. It like these creamy powdery sweetness just right to cover myrrh texture. Aromatic edge and earthy edge is round off the fragrance, but that’s all - that’s is. Scent develop in steady page. As time pass by. Myrrh become soft dusty, smoky lively. Jasmin buried under Myrrh. It walks like Brown slime, groovy chewy gummy on your skin. If you been with natural fragrance. You know how fun it is. Oreintal Velour, walk in slow page not light but not dark either. It’s feel like melt myrrh on your skin. It put in loose structure but firmly round out the edge. I feel esthetic difference.. from Antoine Lee and Florence. While I could 100% Insist you that you can blind buy Antoine Lee’s release. If you use to Commercial Niche for a while. Rose de Jamal, Musc des Sables and Ambre Supreme is top tier Rose, Skin and Patchouli-Amber perfume. Oiginal take from Florence, the first few releases. Yeah, this is something else. Beautiful Fragrance that truly let the nature of material work itself. From aroma from my skin. I can’t read this as incense but more like amber. But compare to La Myrrh. I think more peaceful take. A firm 2 trumps up for me. ===== Oriental Velours (Finalize Review on January 8, 2025) Les Indemodables is a house introduce a new direction for niche market. Aspect of Natural, presented more strongly for the scent raider. Early work of Florence Fouillet Dubois leans more Artisan direction than Later work that feels more Perfumery, familiar for a buyer in perfume market. Well, that didn't be a bad thing but more like what market is able to consume at a time. As now I understand direction of early release follow with later release. Perhaps, Florence Fouillet Dubois still want to introduce the scent as Natural. But pretty and easier to digest, A borderline between Niche and Artisan. Myrrh in this is exceptional and combine beautifully with Natural Jasmine sweetness. And tint of sweet amber vanilla sweetness. well, that something. Artisan user will remains Artisan user but this realm, well this is good enough.

This is such a weird scent. Opens with a sweet, resinous amber thing with bitter botanical facets, then it almost immediately starts losing that sweetness, turning far more camphoraceous. The drydown is an assault of damp, earthy, pungent, dark greens. Not gonna lie, I find this challenging. It kinda reminds me of mushrooms. I don't know if I like it, on one hand, the quality is undeniable, this is a stunningly prismatic, multifaceted perfume, it smells natural, and it still has every bit of that special Les Indemodables quality that makes me feel like I'm being transported into a painting. On the other hand, I'm not sure I want to be a part of said painting, I'm rarely weirded out by a fragrance, and I normally like stuff that's considered a bit out there. I love incense and I love green scents. I've been on the hunt for a dark, earthy forest scent for a while but this really took me by surprise, I don't know if I'm ready for a "fungal amber". I blind bought this because I'm an idiot and because I found it for a ridiculously low price, and this is definitely not something you should do, but it is definitely worth sampling. I will probably do an update once I give it a few proper wears. Update: this grew on me. A lot. I definitely get why this is called “Oriental VELOURS”. This is genius, it’s a real shapeshifter, and it’s worth a lot more than sum of its parts. Despite being comprised out of these naturalistic, coniferous, earthy notes, in the air this turns into a warm, dusty, slightly musty scent that reminds me of what a thick wool blanket smells like when I take it out of storage at the end of summer, but sweeter, richer, more ambery. It almost smells like what cashmeran wishes it could smell like. This is brilliant, but potentially an acquired taste and you really need to give it a proper wearing in order to understand it. I own 2 scents from this house, this one and Ambre Supreme, which was an instant love for me, but I actually ended up preferring this one, it’s just so cool and addictive.

This fragrance has a famous scent profile of the evergreen resinous class. The use of myrrh and spruce gives the earthy, ambry resinous, and woody vibe and this one is in a very natural format. Many of the fragrances I know with this scent profile go in two directions: 1) incense-y mysterious with fresh or warm spice 2) ambry oriental. This fragrance did not go in any of these directions, and by adding vanilla and jasmine, it creates an interesting novel scent. This scent profile creates some contrast between the notes, where you have heavy masculine notes of myrrh and spruce and feminine jasmine notes. It has the shiny floral and delicate character of a jasmin but is not very dominant, and not in the first plot, you should zoom in on the fragrance to see that beauty and details, Like when you zoom in on a painting and discover details in the overall work. It's an interesting artistic type of fragrance, I quite enjoyed that. P.S: This fragrance is based on natural materials. To appreciate or understand a fragrance like this, you should like natural ingredients. Natural essential oils are deep, complex, heavy, and usually medicinal. You can't find high amount of such ingredients in common fragrances, if they use natural materials at all. 8.5/10

Bit of a misnomer here and maybe that's why a lot of people - expecting a conventional oriental - seem disappointed with what they get. "Myrrhe Verde" would be more apt and might draw the attention of the crowd more likely to appreciate it. As for this person here, Oriental Velours is interesting and calming, but works as a bitter reminder that myrrh does not necessarily work well solo. Yes, I know there's vetiver and spruce, but they don't seem to do much imo to highlight the star of the show the way - say - amber materials do for immortelle in Sables. Serge Lutens's glorious La Myrrhe remains the epitome of how to make myrrh shine, not drowning it in the sweet molasses of "supporting" notes that end up overtaking the party.