Opoponax

Reviewing the honoré payan version of this which if i understand correctly, is exactly the same as the pre-reformulated les nereides for a fraction of the price I am just shocked... very rarely does trying a new perfume after all these years give me this feeling of joy and intrigue. And that may easily be attributed to how beautiful citrus ambers are in general (if done correctly). As stated by someone else, the opening is very interesting. It feels like the citruses and resins are fighting over who will get to please your nose first, with the citruses winning and the resins blending into the background. This victory lasts 10 minutes, because after this phase you get pure opoponax (and a little bit of benzoin). This opoponax is rich, dense, powdery, ancient, medicinal, sweet, deep smooth and almost delectable. And how bright this perfume is! The immense warmth the opoponax carries gives you the same sensation as a sunset in late summer, without any humidity or sweat Apparently, opoponax has a hint of lavender, and i definitely get something herbal fresh in combination with the vanillic warmth of the resin. It is not at all overwhelming though, which is good because im not necessarily a huge fan of lavender/fresh perfumes. Definitely one of those scents that i will not be able to live without. It is exactly like Shalimar’s drydown without the leather/smoke. Its less animalic but still as sexy and radiant. Definitely not a dupe for shalimar because there is no detectable bergamot in here. If you like shalimar but find it hard to wear, definitely give this a try. It also reminds me of a denser version of pradas discontinued l’eau ambrée It is strong, so strong in fact that i go noseblind to it really fast unless i spray it on my shoulders. But its not an annoying kind of strong, it is just right. Honestly a 10/10 for me. Simple and linear, in the sense that it doesnt change from start to finish. But in this case that is a + for me. The opening (after 10 minutes) is already so perfect that im glad the perfume remains this way through its long wear (6 hours of projection, 10+ hours of staying on skin) And this for 30 euros... oh honore payan i will become a frequent buyer

I own the more recent formulation, now simply called OPOPONAX, with the more modern, streamlined label. The jus within is a rich orange color. Wonderfully potent, concentrated, sweet and powdery amber/vanilla scent, with a head of tart orange/mandarin, and a hint of jasmine that almost-- but not quite--- brands this as a feminine perfume. The opening marries orange and vanilla in a way almost reminiscent of a "Dreamsicle" ice cream bar, but this doesn't last too long. Opoponax is a tree resin, sometimes called "sweet myrrh". The natural pure oil itself smells much like that spraycan glue I used to use as a first-grader at Christmastime 1969... to make "snow" adhere to paper. ie., somewhat solvent-like. But opoponax also reveals interesting luminous facets of golden caramel. Blended with citrus and benzoin, it becomes something luscious, fulsome, regal and cozy. This Les Néréides perfume exhibits an obvious kinship with Coty ÉMÉRAUDE... moreso than with SHALIMAR, I'd say, but lacks ÉMÉRAUDE's silvery iris-y clean head. OPOPONAX contains none of SHALIMAR's skanky musks and smoke. This perfume is glorious, luxurious stuff... yet its price-point is surprisingly affordable... especially for a scent that smells totally natural... Other than the opening sparkling aldehydes, this fragrance contains no apparent trendy modern, bogus aromachemicals. (You know the usual suspects: cashmeran, timberol, iso-E-super, calone, et.al., may they be consigned to oblivion). Not listed in the above olfactive pyramid, is a nearly-not-there whisper of something anisic... whether it be anise, licorice, fennel or tarragon? I'm thinking tarragon. I suspect a soupçon of patchouly might be afoot, too, but it's only there as a discreet, sensual "blender". Maybe a faint phantom hint of black pepper, too, to add some "burn" to the amber/balsams? Do note that this listing on FRAGRANTICA mistakenly spells the scent as "OPPOPONAX" (sic). It should be spelled with only two P's, as: "OPOPONAX"

Review for both the original and reformulation here. I tried the original about a year and a half ago; it was clear, rich oppoponax with a touch of vanilla. Very Shalimar without the animalic notes and citrus toned down significantly. I began to think of Opoponax as my reference sweet-myrrh fragrance. When I went to buy a bottle, it came in a new design. I ordered from Luckyscent and received a brand-new bottle in beautiful presentation of thick, textured box in lovely light blue with goldtone edges. The perfume rests in tissue paper under a literature card with floral illustration. The bottle itself is the same shape as previously, simple and sturdy, with an updated light-blue label that matches the box. It is available only in 100 mL size, generous enough for the price, which is modest for niche. The scent itself is not like I remember. In fact, I do not get oppoponax anymore at all. For whatever reason, this note was left out of the reformulation and in its place are much amber, benzoin, vanilla, and orange syrup. It is now primarily an amber perfume with chocolatey nuances that bring to mind Shalimar sur la Route Mexique. Fortunately it is no weaker than before, and the scent is so absolutely beautiful that I aim to keep the perfume. It is very good quality and of such a small production that it fits the definition of niche quite appropriately. However, I will have to once again look for my reference oppoponax perfume or try to find an older bottle of this one.

I traded a bottle of Chanel No. 19 for this- specifically the 'Angels Resting' eau de toilette version that says 'Imperial Opoponax'. (Thank you dear friend Vee!) This scent opens with warm toasted citrus peels and gets straight to the heart notes. After the citrus peels quickly fade, I get a beautifully RICH resinous amber vanilla. I disagree with some reviewers in their comparison to Shalimar. I have dozens of Shalimar bottles in various concentrations and from various decades and this fragrance just does not compare to it. This holds the resinous spicy heart notes throughout on me and stays 'warm'. I get more spices from this during the colder months and now that it has warmed a bit I get more creaminess from the spicy resin than the dry warmth I got in the winter. It is definitely beautiful and something I will treasure. Not sure if the newer bottles have gone through a reformulation and, if so, I hope this perfume is exactly the same as the bottle I have. I don't think it fair to label a scent masculine or feminine, because cultures vary in that perception, as well as the tastes of each wearer. I think this would be beautiful and comforting on a woman just the same as on a man. It reminds me at times of vintage aftershaves, and then again of vintage boudoirs. Very beautiful and a treasured perfume for me! Give it a try if you ever come across this!!

Although I've been really charmed, by the creations of this Maison, I could not wear any among them as an evident 'disliking' towards them, shown by my rebel skin has always kept me far from 'the family', being their effects on me undeniably poor... : ( Today a miracle has happened: a friend came to see me and seeing that he was carrying a bottle of that wonder in his tennis bag I asked him politely if I could.......: I've lived my epiphany! Surrounded by the sweet aroma of the beautiful myrrh there employed, so round, rich and 'soft', I think that I spied a glimpse of paradise! The notes I could soon detect are among my beloved ones: vanilla, sandal, amber and benzoin, all already clearly detectable since the opening. On my skin sandal, amber and opoponax (myrrh) are staying with a strength and tenacity that I could never thought. A really 'regal' effect, that made me think about another lovely 'pair': 'Le sens du plaisir' by Antonio Visconti. Great! After a while benzoin joined to vanilla blend into a warm, lovely, elegant fragrance. Very beautiful! Lovely sillage and projection. Perhaps this fragrance is perfect for the cold season but either on me or on my male friend it is sublime, even today on a very hot day. Highly recommended, also, to 'boys' ('girls' are understood) of every age: do not be afraid to dare!!! ; ) Good persistence on the skin.