Crepe de Chine

This has been "long lost" twice. First it was a legendary green chypre produced by F. Millot in the 1920s that was considered very chic (it was a favorite of Mary Pickford, one of the greatest stars of the silent screen). After that company went out of business it was revived by Long Lost Fragrances--which has sadly also since gone out of business. Now you can only get old bottles of either version off the Internet or in antique stores. This is a review of the Long Lost fragrances version. It's a great green bitter chypre, with all the classic elements of bergamot, labdanum, and lots of oakmoss, plus aldehydes to give it a lift, and plenty of florals (although these get subordinated to the aromatics in this and to the woods at its base). It's very aromatic and very dank, and has a lot of swagger. If the original was like this, it's a great loss to the art of perfumery. I would rank this today as very unisex rather than feminine (as it was originally intended). I bought a used bottle of this, and I'm very grateful I have it.

Years ago, this was my fragrance; I was in my early twenties, and just loved it. Now, as my perfume interest has grown, I wanted to try it again, to discover, of course, that it was long discontinued. I have a vial of the vintage, as well as the long lost perfume version, and have finally been able to compare both together. Vintage version starts out much warmer; it is a green chypre with a wonderful mossy undertone, and without the bitterness that many green fragrances share. As it develops, it became a touch sweeter, then developped a soapy note. Unfortunately, it was fairly short-lived; three hours later there was nothing left...but it is truly wonderful! The LLP version starts out with a blast of green aldehydes, much sharper than the original. Thankfully, the scent develops from a crisp green to a warmer, just slightly sweeter green note, and in the dry down there is the wonderful, oaky green chypre that crepe de chine reallly is. Sillage is reasonable, and the longevity is good as well. So, while the vintage version is a more classic, elegant scent, the LLP version is quite wearable and a decent interpretation of the original.

The aldehyde opening is refreshing, without the slap that happens when they're used immoderately. Bergamot is detectable. Then a cool chypric harmony with subtle floral and green undertones. Kiku describes it perfectly as, "floral without being sweet and green without being bitter." As the fragrance develops it gets warmer. I assumed the name was simply part of the Orientalist vogue of the 1920s, but smelling the perfume, I find it apt. Crepe de Chine has the familiar oakmoss huskiness (that I love in chypres), but there's a slithery quality to it, very much like crepe de chine fabric. I've never worn this before, or known anyone who wore it, but it smells somehow familiar. Crepe de Chine has an eternal loveliness articulated with retro style. Sillage and lasting power are both excellent.

Crepe de Chine by Millot was one of the great perfumes. It should have a place of honor on every dressing table. It was floral without being sweet, green without being bitter. And the coolest fragrance ever, it could take the heat off a sultry day. This version by Long Lost Perfumes is not bad. All the notes are there but too weak to make an impact. Millot's Crepe de Chine was really rather intense. LLP's version is a case where too much would have been better. Spray this on before going to bed. It's a great scent to take you off to sweet dreams.

This wonderful gem came in today, after I found it this weekend on the net. An Almost full 120 ml bottle... for 20 euro. I am one Lucky B. Now, I am a collector and lover of heavy orientals, woody, spice and all, but sometimes I crave for a fresh (not harsh) chypre. Crepe de Chine is going to be my new best friend in that category. How delightfully light yet present, other-wordly yet realistic, how new and yet ancient this mossy scent is. One Long Lost Perfume has come home.