Le Vetiver

... 2019 In retrospect this perfume framed photographs of a summer in Venice... a summer of innocence, of excess, of naivety. Nevertheless, dear memories flash in my mind with this scent. What remains of that summer? With melancholy for all that I had known, I become aware that just as this scent, the photographs fade. [le vetiver lubin]

When I first tried out Lubin Le Vetiver in the perfume shop, with all the busy smells around, I thought it had the cooling, slightly nutty and fresh opening that I used to love about Guerlain's, before they changed the citrus top notes to those sourer ones and ruined it for me. (The new bottle with the green cap...) I was wrong, and at first, disappointed. The opening of this is quite sour, too, but more orangey. The vetiver itself is very well-behaved, and in no way rubbery or aggressive. Nor would that work with the notes that accompany it. As the scent progresses, quite a bit of magic starts to happen. The cooling, orangey opening is quickly warmed by nutmeg and cloves, in a way that is actually quite different from the Guerlain. The development of the fragrance is a bit like the evening after a hot summer's day in moderate climes: a cooling breeze, and as you're still sitting outside, you light some torches or a little fire and relax with a hot clove and orange tea. The added aromas of myrrh and just the faintest touch of incense make for a beautiful dry-down. I was not convinced the first time around, but it has grown on me. Works any time of day, and personally I think it gains by being applied liberally. Sillage is not as light as the wearer may be tricked into believing, longevity about average. Many have described this as a dark green vetiver, but on my skin, this is a warm orangey-spicy vetiver with just a bit of a cooling breeze on top... like a slight shiver on your back as you approach a fire at night.

Upon first application Le Vetiver didn't like me. It was loud, sharp and unbearable. I coughed slightly and walked away. I tested another couple of scents and left the shop. While walking on the street I noticed that something smelled very very good...I started sniffing my wrists and realised it was Le Vetiver. It blossomed into the most wonderful smoky spicy citrus blend. As the time went past the blend became smoother and I couldn't get enough of it. I returned to the shop and allowed them to abuse my credit card so I could take this perfume home. I have a limited edition with a green cap and it comes with very charming story on the box: "Le Vetiver" by Lubin evokes the legendary creatures that live in the deepest of Celtic forests. It combines citrus with exotic spices overlaid with the magic reminiscence of mysterious forest undergrowth.

Great vetiver alert here. Lubin’s Le Vetiver is grand. I don’t know why this fragrance goes unnoticed since it is a superb vetiver sold in a too modest price. It starts very close with the Guerlain, citrusy and fresh with perhaps a more herbal accent and dries down to a incensy woody way very classy and manly. The tobacco note makes a great backbone and deep into the drydown almost dominates the vetiver note. This scent reminds me of the old-school laid back masculines that were full of grace and elegance. If you like perfumes (not only vetivers) I can’t understand how this isn’t in your wardrobe already. It is on par and possibly even higher than the current Guerlain. A vetiver par excellence for a decent price at once. Thanks, Lubin for making great perfumes for men.

Among the good vetivers this is my least favourite which means that is good but not exactly up my alley. Loads of citruses (mainly grapefruit) and some "green" tobacco bring Le Vetiver towards the fresh-woody territory. The fragrance has good depth due to the presence of a remarkable frankincense note but, unfortunately, it suffers from a few stereotyped aspects (mainly concerning its strong classic masculine vibe). Yes, this is an old-fashioned type of fragrance which is usually a "pro" for me, but in this case turns to be a "con". It smells sort of Guerlain wannabe (expecially the grapefruit-centered opening which reminds me of Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune). Whenever I look for a classic masculine in the same vein I directly go for Tuscany Per Uomo. Moderate lasting power. Rating: 6.5/10