Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand

I have been sample-ing this perfume since July and cannot stop. It is unapologetically sexy--and in a slightly dirty way. On me, the mandarin/cinnamon quickly give way to a (brief) really dirty sweaty note, then the rose and floral comes and is replaced by the musky, ambergris, patchouli base. I don't ever really get the honey. I don't tend to like sweet fragrances anyways--so that is good. It has some serious longevity. No need to re-apply. For me, it is very similar to Portrait of a Lady by F. Malle, but without the overpowering patchouli. There is something about it that reminds me of my mother wearing Tabu. Brunette in mantilla and red lipstick staring right into your brain. Tantalizing. Paralyzing.

Bellissima rosa, potente, avvolgente, inebriante. Mi ricorda molto la Rose Barbare Guerlain nella classica combinazione rosa, miele, patchouli. Una rosa dorata di miele e ambra. Una dolcezza sapientemente dosata, che non supera i limiti. In questo profumo mi piace molto l'equilibrio delle tre note principali che crea un'armonia completa ed elegante. Una rosa fine, confortevole, soavemente risolta, che davvero non ha bisogno di predicare, le è sufficiente essere.

"Le Parfum Couture" on some levels is similar to JHAG "Lady Vengeance" which is one of my favorites, so I did enjoy the similarities in the opening. As I love honey and adore cinnamon I had very high expectations towards this perfume which might be why I feel so dissapointed. The mix of the cold-elegant rose and patchouli for me did not work together with the warmness of honey and cinnamon, it felt a bit "pushed". Like as they wanted to add these notes, but did not think trough completely, the blent feels a bit "off" and the perfume itself is not in harmony which I really do not appreciate. Longevity was mediocre, not longer that 5 hours on my skin.

At first spray I get both head notes but they are quickly joined by the rose (or pink pepper?). Soon joined by patchouli and a little sandalwood and musk (adding powderiness) and a tiny tad of honey that sweetens it. Cinnamon and tangerine fade to the background. Just not for me, since rose and patchouli aren't my favorite notes. A little too masculine for me, also, but very nice and well-blended. I would have liked more cinnamon and honey.

starts very animalic, a hint of sharp notes, powders and a small hint of cinnamon. Then, I smell ambroxan and a small hint of rose. I don't smell any other notes anymore, ambroxan is very strong on my skin and overshadows all the other notes. This one doesn't work with my chemistry, boo! The opening was great, I love animalic scents especially when this is already present from the start.

Oh damn! Was not expecting this based on the quick glance I took at the notes initially. I went in thinking, a nice cinnamon and patch, perhaps ambery oriental. This is vintage. Oakmossy, woodsy, old school, reminiscent of Aigner Etienne Explosive, or Soir le Lune. The animalic / mossy / vintage opening does subside and dries down to a lovely, slightly aldehidic powdery rose. ** Testing next to Etienne explosive as that is what it reminded me of: this is much more powdery, but both have that vintage bohemian vibe. ** 25+ Rose based niche frags up for swap - and other genres. Get in touch to make the most of our samples! UK only **

At first, I can understand the comparison to vintage Tabu, but over time it changes significantly. After perhaps a couple hours it becomes a dry woody/rose scent, definitely unisex (and my guess is many women would find it so woody as to be "masculine"). It's quite pleasant, but at first the rose is dominant, and so that might lead some men to conclude it is too "feminine." From what I remember of the drydown of Portrait of a Lady, I prefer this one. I disagree with the reviewer who said this is an amber scent. It is a touch powdery at drydown, but it's not at all ambery.

Eau du Soir Sisley + Amber= Le Parfum