(untitled)

An amazing scent. So different and complex... I LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!!! It keeps evolving, offering pleasant surprises. I’m going to make a contradiction here, by saying it smells like nothing else but also reminds me of a lot of other fragrances. My review is a personal interpretation – I appraised the scent before I knew the real notes, so if there are any inconsistencies don’t assume I haven’t read the Fragrantica description; it’s what I THOUGHT it was. A clean, slightly citrusy, floral, bitter “green”, that matures into something a bit sweeter, then dryer. First impression brought O de Lancome to mind. It punches you in the face with an opening burst of lily-of-the-valley, like Diorissimo. But Diorissimo is cold, cold, cold, and this is not. Now I realize there is no lily-of-the-valley here, so it must be the combination of notes creating that illusion. Then the “green” changes to resemble something like Versense (Versace). It remains sharp and bitter, which I attribute to galbanum, bitter orange and probably boxwood (I’ve never smelt boxwood). But there is something sweeter underneath – the jasmine, musk and cedar. It’s very clean. Reminds me of English summer gardens just after rain. A lot like Jo Malone’s French Lime Blossom. Then it drifts into Estee Lauder Pure White Linen territory... Airy and delicately floral, while still retaining the bitterness. Then it becomes really complex. The warmth develops – a spice, not sure which one - pepper, cloves, amber, cardamom, coriander, cinnamon? At the same time the greenness grows, reminding me of Chanel No. 19 EDT. And the sweetness is still increasing... Suddenly you realize the scent has changed direction. There is no more sweetness, and no more warmth. The flowers are cold and the spices are sharp. It has a slightly “musty” quality about it, like what you would find in an antique shop. In fact, it smells a lot like Cristalle by Chanel. The base shows itself. It feels warm, sharp and very dry. At this point I’m suspecting woods and incense. In its last stages you can still smell the bitterness and the floral quality, but you are overwhelmed by the dry, warm base. You are left with a calming stagnancy; a vintage staleness. Desirable or not? I’m not sure, but I will respect it for what it is. Conclusion: for those of you who love bitter green scents, floral scents or light scents, give this a try. It may not be to everyone’s taste, but for people who dig this “type” of scent, it deserves an award it’s so good. Excuse my language, but this is bloody good... There's just one last thing I'd like to say about this fragrance. You expect it to be so minimalist it lacks character, like the clothes of Maison Martin Margiela (or at least my perception of them) and because of the bottle design and the name "(untitled)". Instead you find a fragrance that is beautiful, with no lack of character.

My method for testing a new perfume has always been the same; I spritz a bit in the air, and then I run the back of my hand through said mist. This is usually enough to give me a good impression of whether I will like the scent or not, and in the case of Untitled, less is more. This baby is pungent. Had I indulged myself in a full, wet blast on first try, I may have recoiled in horror. Even with that timid, introductory mist, I found myself it a temporary state of shock. Upon initial application, the best single word for Untitled is simply, "weird." However, I like weird, and this is a weird I can appreciate - especially now that I know what comes next... ...ANNND because "weird" is not at all helpful to you. Let's get into the nitty-gritty of this concoction. Untitled has, maybe, one of the greenest presence that I've smelled. Spritz. Sniff. Bitter, sharp, crunchy, aggressively green; this must be the galbanum. Sniff. I sense oiliness, but upon reading the description I pulled, they got it right when they used the word "filmy." For me, the filmiest part is at the start, but it certainly digs its heels in and sticks around. Sniff. The jasmine sneaks in to save the homicidal greenery from completely murdering your olfactive experience. I also sense the woody-incense tip-toeing in, but as for the citrus, I can pin-point none. However I imagine the citrus is mingling in the background, playing a significant part in keeping this from staying over-the-top green. It settles down to a green-woody-floral, eventually musk side-steps in to assist the dry-down. As it settles down completely, it gets softer, pretty, airy, a little soapy, and less jarring. I admire Untitled most with a light spritz, or when there's only a whisper of it left on the skin. And because I've thoroughly enjoyed every scent I've experienced that has Daniela's name on it, my fondness for this baby is no surprise. I think if you're a fan of Daniela Andrier, you must try this. If you've sniffed several of her perfumes, you'll likely feel the Daniela vibe in the dry-down. Although very different fragrances, Untitled strongly reminds me of Prada's Infusion d'Iris (which is one of my all time favorites). As for the longevity and projection of this scent, it's a bit underwhelming. If you happen to be in the presence of others when you've first applied, I'm fairly confident they'd notice. However, once worn for awhile, it becomes more of a skin scent. I don't have to mash my nose against my wrist, but I have to get within an inch of it to catch a whiff. Longevity is okay, in that you'll smell traces of it up close hours later, but it may leave you wondering where the once brash and outspoken Mr. Green has run off to. (untitled) is an EDP and it retails for $100-140 Longevity: 2/5 Projection: 2/5 Sincerely, Krista @ Juice Fragrance Blog

my love. my experience of (untitled) comes in two parts. firstly, back when it launched in 2010. as a huge fan of the original maison martin margiela brand, i was ecstatic to see what they would launch--what they were essentially claiming as Them. at the time i had no trained nose, and only knew i liked incense notes and anything that could be described as 'dark' or 'noir', and so this green bomb (which now makes perfect sense to me, as you'll see) was a bit befuddling. i didn't dislike it, but it was a different sort of challenge. i remember the jasmine coming through the most, as at the time i didn't like florals, and particularly white florals--this fragrance actually served as the catalyst to restructure my brain/nose/heart in how i perceive them. i hoarded samples and wore it through the streets of tokyo (ensuring an eventual deep nostalgic relationship), but eventually ran out and (untitled) remained a faint but fond memory. fast forward to 8 years later: i've become perfume nut, and have incorporated it even into my profession. i purchase a new bottle of (untitled) and fall in love all over again, but this time with a far deeper understanding and fully ready to commit. what comes through the most now, for me, is the incense and galbanum (i think this is certainly the combo bringing the comparisons to prada infusion d'iris, aside from the perfumer herself; it's quite obvious to my nose !). the green is incredibly chic and dry and cool (both in style and in feel), but the incense--that glorious incense--keeps the mystery and adds sensuality. she's not too cold to be touched, if you're willing to get to know her--and therefore i can't think of a better fragrance to represent the essence of what this house originally stood for (don't even get me started on the replica range, it's a tragedy).

Personally I think this is gorgeous. Andrier has this quite recognizable style with blends that have few distinct facets over sophisticated underlayer - the effect is modern and somehow streamlined - but never boring. The olfactory experience has almost rhytmic vibrance because of these well considered highlights. Also I prefer (untitled) to Andrier's Prada creations - they are just too prissy to my taste. (untitled) has not that restrained quality. The green notes and bitter orange give almost aggressive, very bitter opening, but the bitterness tames down pretty soon, a very round and mellow jasmine steps forward with fresh woody aromas, incence lingering beautifully around, wrapping the packet. Green notes stay there but they are not in the leading role, they give the scent lush moistness and well considered fresh edge. The experience is quite sensual... ...and the sensual side just goes on when the scent gradually develops to woody-musky basenote. The animalic side is perfectly balanced on (untitled) - the scent is not skanky - but just enough dirty to stay off from the soapy prissiness. And oh that round and sweet jasmine note - best one I've encountered in a long time! Florals tend to be difficult on me, but this one goes definitely to my favorites. This scent is highly reactive to skin chemistry - on my skin the sweet sensual side was accentuated, my friend got out much more bitter, green, almost grassy notes. Edit. I've had this over a year now - and I have really grown up appreciating the salty-sweet floral-musky-incensy drydown. It's beautiful, like no other - very natural jasmine accord. For some reason this does not last on my wrists too well - but on the neck and on my body I get very good longevity... ...and that heavenly drydown.

I'm finding, reading these reviews, that there seems to be a lot of variability in how people are interpreting the scent itself, the longevity, and the sillage. Far more than you would imagine you'd have with a product manufactured by L'Oreal under pretty strict guidelines. After having numerous bottles and many, many samples I'm thinking this wide disparity in interpretation is due a lot to the product's age and the storage conditions. More so than with a lot of other mass market perfumes. I'm guessing there are more than a few fragile components contained therein that don't like extreme variation in temperature and begin to break down at a quicker rate than the other components, leaving a huge disparity in user experience, even from bottle to bottle. I say this because I recent purchased a used bottle (30ml) off eBay, and also had a 12 pack of the 1.5ml sample sprays...so I compared them. The contents of the used bottle came out very alcoholic and bitter, eventually drying down to the scent I was expecting, while the sprays yielded a smoother, more characteristic scent. And longevity is also much longer with the sprays than with the bottle. My guess is somewhere along the line, the bottle was stored in a less than optimal environment and that deeply affected the contents. My .02. Your mileage may vary. And a quick sidenote: the plastic top that comes on all the Untitled bottles is also compatible with the Replica bottles so don't throw them out when you use up your bottle of Untitled! The more you know....