Pourpre d’Automne

Pourpre D'Automne was originally created in 1924. Its bottle had painted flowers and was designed by Lucien Gaillard. With the revitalization of Maison Violet, it was the first perfume to be revisited, practically, of obligatory form. The new version was completed in 2017 and brought the talent of Nathalie Lorson (who also signs the other two relaunched fragrances). Its official composition lists notes of violet leaf absolute and orris root, making way for a heart with notes of tree moss and absolute of Bulgarian rose, resting on the base that brings benzoin and musk. In addition, the fragrance features a fruity accord, which conveys nuances of peach and plum. Pourpre D'Automne is one of those floral perfumes that has color, smell and sensation. It is like the purplest of the violets on the window or of the satin ribbons, forming a gigantic bow that holds the silk paper, of soft lilac color, that surrounds the most beautiful of the flower bouquets. On the skin, there is a mixture of innocence with impulsivity, showing an initial floral side that is sweetened by the fruits, with a slight powdery evolution of the iris. It’s being a long time since I did not feel a fragrance with this natural content of violets (the flowers, not the leaves) to the point of remembering the cologne my maternal grandfather wore (manufactured in Portugal by the classic Saboaria and Perfumaria Confiança). As if this special olfactory memory was not enough, the fragrance never seems to lose its strength and it is as if the flowers lasted for more than a week in a beautiful jug, scenting the environment incessantly. And that is reflected on the skin and also in the surroundings, something that I had to manage in the second time I wore it because I was forced to reduce the number of sprays due to its huge projection. Although it is a revisited fragrance, Pourpre D'Automne carries a classic aura, completely different from what is in the current market. It's like watching an old movie starring Elizabeth Taylor and not getting mesmerized by the violet color of her eyes. At that time, there were not so many special effects, but the quality of the productions was impeccable, just like in the perfumery. At Maison Violet autumn has color and smell: it is Pourpre D'Automne.

What I like about this perfume is that they didn't limit themselves to reproducing a vintage recipe. The plum and peach accords give it a more modern appeal instead of letting someone smell 'old'. Violet definitely dominates the whole fragrance and one could say this is a mono-thematic perfume. But it wouldn't be Maison Violet if it didn't have a violet perfume as a flagship. I agree that in the current panorama of modern scent this is quite unique and nowadays there isn't usually a lot of focus on violets as the main accord, instead they're used as a support for other leading notes like iris or some other flower. The gourmandy notes makes the violet smell like candy or liqueurish. Reminds me of violet syrop that is frequently sold in France. Although I did say the fragrance smells updated it does carry a certain degree of timelessness too. The moss is practically unnoticeable and the scent is very light and powdery. For this reason it leans feminine but the brand labels it as unisex and confident men can certainly pull it off. The sillage is consistent over time which attests to the quality of the raw materials.

Beautiful beautiful classic iris and violet combination. Violet leaf adds a slight green and dewy tinge. This is more natural smelling florals, calm, serene. Misia is more chalky, resinous and makeup-y. Pourpre d'Automne is more effortless, Misia is more sophisticated, she is like the older sister of Pourpre d'Automne who went to Paris, started using makeup, even wearing bold red lipstick and got herself cultured. While her slightly younger sister Pourpre d'Automne is still dreamy, naive and haven't adopted philistine traits.

Pourpre d’Automne opens lipsticky and waxy, with hints of fruity sweetness in the background. What I love about this it becomes very dry, earthy and plum-y as it dries down. Yes it is powdery in a sense that is is chalky but not talc-y if that makes sense. Very familiar but has unique nuances. My other favorite is Un Air d’Apogée with it’s tobacco iris goodness. Very long lasting and the sillage on this one is gorgeous and projects a little loud for at least the first few hours.

Fantastically gorgeous violet/iris potion. Elegant violent lavender melange floating on an mossy wood base. A bit of peachy plum adds a bit of warmth with a touch of natural vegetal sweet. A bit of rose swirls throughout and enriches the floral complexity. A sweetly resinous base is smooth without being overly heavy. Gentle musk adds a touch of sensuality while the oakmoss casts a shadowed mossy veil that prevents anything from going into gourmand territory. I love this.

Well, well Mme Lorson! Making a fragrance more Guerlain than Guerlain itself. Pourpre smells like my beloved Terracotta bronzing powder (before the apparent quality issues during the pandemic). The fragrance is a candied violet tempered by some quite chalky or damp iris (like in Nuees from the same house). The base is a pleasant amber. Sillage and lasting power is huge. Neither the Terracotta or Meteorites fragrances can hold up against this beast.

Very nice iris, violet and violet leaf scent. It does remind me of Miller Harris Terre de Iris. Cool, powdery and the essence of spring. I love Misia and don't get much similarity. Misia is sweeter and more resinous. You get a little warmth from the rose and plum but too little for me. I do like this but it's just a tad too cold for me. The scent of the Ice Queen. I don't get very good longevity or sillage on me in this warm room.

Autumn, it says, but I sampled this on the first day of spring and it felt perfect! “Violet” is in the house’s name, not the perfume’s, but the scent definitely has violet front and center. It’s also got rose and powdery cosmetics and an oakmoss that’s reminiscent of Mitsouko. I really like it. Also reminds me somewhat of Apres l’Ondee, but lasts much longer. Will certainly wear again.

Perhaps the most realistic violet from what I’ve met in perfume world! Amazing, love it! The opening is a bit too strong, but let it dry down and then enjoy super realistic violet!

Pretty powder with a hint of burning dust on a heater. I have to test it during autumn.

Mmm, I really like this one. To be honest, I like everything from this house. I pulled out my sample of Pourpre d'Automne for autumn, and it did not disappoint. Sweet violet and iris, medicinal syrupy rose, chalky peach, plenty of powder...a fairy scent. It smells so good. It's a classical composition, which makes sense given it was first created in 1925, but many modern classics share likeness with this one. It's not outdated. Bvlgari Pour Femme, for instance, is also a violet/iris/rose combination that has many fans, so it's nice that this classic smell can still be beautiful and feminine in modern times. This is much stronger than Bvlgari Pour Femme, though, that one is like water on me. It's also not as brash as YSL Paris - this perfume from Maison Violet is tasteful, subtle, sweet, ladylike and girly at the same time. It dries down differently than when you first spray it on, and the drydown is equally magical - with more musk and all the floral notes sublimely blended together. I honestly can't get enough. My collection is lacking a violet perfume...

From official website: Top Note: Violet leaf, Peach, Plum Heart Note: Rose, Iris, Violet Base Note: Moss, Benjoin, Musk Ah, the power of expectations. I was expecting a violet perfume, but this is not it. I then read the marketing blurb on the Violet website and that whole 'end of summer - beginning of autumn' thing. That's not it either. Then I realised, anything with oakmoss in the base is bound to be in the Chypre region. Oakmoss and peach (and iris/rose/something purple/something powdery) gives you: Mitsouko! Think of this as a fresher version of that and you get what it is trying to be. It really is good though. One of the best of the Violet line, and with decent enough performance.

Massive powdery lipstick scent, in a well loved cosmetic bag that has been around the block; inside there’s old lipsticks past the expiration date, and shimmery eyeshadow in cracked, plastic cases. The only negative which is also a positive: no one is going to complain about performance. After the potent violet burst opening, I detected a cold, metallic effect, and it made my teeth tingle. I see that Pourpre d’Automne has been voted similar to Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens, and I agree. I think this is a wonderful, quality scent....but for me it’s not wearable. On the right person? Possibly spectacular.

Oooooo this is lipsticky, dry powdery, like you stuck your head in an old make-up bag. I need a drink of water just thinking about the chalkiness. I'm into it. Post-edit: I am so glad I bought a full bottle of this. It is incredible. The most elegant fragrance I own - so many people have asked me what I'm wearing. Actually it was between this and Xerjoff's Apollonia - both have that cold dusty floral vibe with an iris base. I tried both, and 100% no regrets choosing this one.

Anyone remember those Choward's Violet breath mints they'd sell at the pharmacy? This frag is a dead ringer for those! They were square, hard, chalky tablets in a silver and bold purple wrapper, with old fashioned writing. I get that, lipstick, powder and children's medicine. It's peculiar, but I don't hate it at all. An ever so elegant, mature, nostalgic and delicate feminine scent. Nice for spring, early summer if it's not too hot just yet.

Chic, somber, and purple. Pourpre d’Automne is gorgeous! I’m not sure I am in the right mindset to wear this, currently I prefer more sweet, delicate powders versus lipstick powdery scents. A woman wearing this is classy, restrained and refined.

Ok, hear me out. This smells like Rustlers burger sauce 😅😅. There's a tanginess to it that reminds of the mustardy smell of the sauce. It's quite nice though

I did not get the fruit or sweetness that others are remarking on. My take on this is so different from almost everyone else's that I briefly wondered whether I received an odd sample but nope, the violet is there, the rose is there, the peach is there but softly. This is like a satin pillow with the scent of fruit tree blossoms (peach or plum) floating in through the cracked window in early spring. Maybe like vintage L'air du Temps but just slightly fresh rosier? The violet/rose/peach combination gives it an almost damp feel, like vintage cold cream. (Maybe this is how I see the "lipstick scent" that's been described, but that should be slightly fruitier and plastic.) This does not travel far or last long on skin, but the next day I could more accurately assess the smell on sleeves and after running my hand through my hair! To me this is a cool weather scent, very evening, close and classy, not especially sexy. I wore this to a silent film viewing of Charlie Chaplin's City Lights that was accompanied by a full orchestra. There were many women who wore vintage attire and this scent felt very on point.

Very elegant and feminine fragrance. More for fall and winter to my opinion. Iris, violet, a small scent of fruits and musk in the background. This parfume is "purple"! It is the perfect representation of the name of this brand. This is a very classic, French parfume. Long longevity and good sillage. 6/10

Reminds me a little of Misia, but not as nice. Purple, floral, pleasant, I like it, but I don't love it. Need to try again, methinks, but I don't know if it'll be a yes. Quite similar to a few other violet-iris scents I've tried out recently. I do like it, though...