Shams Narcissus

As time went by, more and more "ouds" saturated the market and overshadowed Shams Oud; what I originally thought as an unnecessary addition has now become its saving grace (although still not worth the extra $280). The freshness & the fruity-floral aspect of Narcissus actually amplifies the unique interpretation of oud that focuses on Tolu balsam, supplements the savoriness/saltines, and balances out the dry woodiness. 👍🏼

I didn't find the addition of narcissus necessary nor enhancing, but maybe interesting. It makes the fragrance brighter (maybe truer to its name), greener, sharper, but it doesn't feel too complimentary, as if you sprayed Shams and then something else contrasting on top. It's not bad but doesn't make it better, therefore definitely not worth the extra 200.

Since this fragrance has been discontinued, it is difficult to know, but seems like Shams Oud plus narcissus is the recipe? Woods, resin, and ginger spice, but no distinct narcissus note.

this one is as strong as all the others from this house, it looks like this house wants to impress by strength but the compositions turn out to be very masculine, like this one too, although i was expecting expensive narcissus to give extra oomph, but this did not happen, the sharp ginger /pepper/green opening is contrasted by medicinal oud and some saffron spicy kind of mix, after few hours everything calms down into oud narcissus bitter , dry toned composition. on the blotter it doesnt change this much and is unwearable for me, too medicinal

Something special for the summer heat: Shams Narcissus from Memo Paris. This might be one of the most challenging fragrances from Memo Paris, with its dark, deep tones and intense oriental character. It was probably too unconventional on the one hand and too expensive on the other, which is perhaps why this gem has unfortunately been discontinued. Luckily, I managed to find it at a steep discount. The fragrance belongs to the Escales Extraordinaires collection, in which each flanker highlights a particular note from one of the house's original creations. I have been obsessed with the narcissus note this year, and here its heady, opulent floral character is addictively blended with a resinous, slightly animalic composition. The fragrance is complex, yet it has no clearly defined stages. Instead, it remains a rich, full-bodied, and harmonious composition from start to finish. No individual note dominates either the opening or the drydown, and nothing seems to fade away noticeably as it develops. Most of the listed notes are traditionally base notes. If you imagine each of them in its most natural and aromatic form, blended together with narcissus, the result comes remarkably close to this fragrance. Although it has a subdued animalic quality, it never becomes dirty or barnyard-like. Instead, it is intoxicating, addictive, and exceptionally intriguing. Many people would probably consider it better suited to colder weather, but I think its high-quality, natural-smelling ingredients truly come alive in the warmth. The fragrance is completely unisex, and despite the prominent narcissus note, there is nothing traditionally feminine about it. Its longevity is outstanding - it lasts virtually forever on my skin and this perfume needs to be sprayed on skin, it needs the warmth of it to perform in the right way. I have to wear fragrances like this only occasionally, as I often want to enjoy two or even three completely different scents throughout the day. More often than not, this becomes my final fragrance of the evening. Shams Narcissus demonstrates that Memo Paris was willing to take creative risks rather than simply follow market trends. Its dense, resinous structure, restrained use of animalic facets, and remarkably natural interpretation of narcissus create a fragrance that prioritizes character over immediate appeal. It is not an easy composition, nor is it meant to be, but for those who enjoy complex, natural-smelling orientals with a floral heart, it is an outstanding example of how unconventional materials can be woven into a cohesive and highly distinctive fragrance. Thank you for reading, I hope my review was helpful. I would appreciate if you follow me on my IG and/or YouTube (English subtitles available): @ninamariahperfumes It gives me a lot of motivation to write more.