Derby

Next stop in Milano is the race course. To be honest, I was quite apprehensive when I read the notes and expected a dirty leather/horse accord, but it turns out that this strikes the perfect balance between being green and fresh and slightly dirty so as not to get boring. You can say that this sits between Diurno and Naviglio and I guess this could be the perfect signature all year round scent. The sillage of this one is very professional and definitely a lot quieter than the others I had tried. To some this might be disappointing, to me it’s an advantage as I prefer scents that are a bit more private yet present as they draw people into your sphere. It’s got enough freshness and softness for summer, but there is some warmth (the horse stable in the distance ... I really can see what they went for this as I pass the horse carriages every day; the scent of horses and what they leave behind is an integral part of the smell of the inner city of my hometown) in the scent that will make it also appropriate for the cooler months. Of course, it is utterly elegant as you'd expect from a fragrance that tries to capture the green freshness of the outside, but also the elegant classic fragrances of the ladies and gentlemen that watch the race. I actually see the scene of My Fair Lady 😂. Yet again, longevity is excellent despite it not being loud, so this is a winner in my book. It also walks the very fine line between masculine and feminine, sitting right in the middle. Notes according to the booklet that came with the sample set: Top: galbanum, mandarin, violet, French lavender Heart: mimosa, tuberose Base: oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, musk

Milano Fragranze Derby is a spicy, semi-herbal, semi-fresh blend that has an immediately classic vibe, inspired by a horse race course, consisting of resins, sharp florals (lavender, violet), patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, and oakmoss. It definitely has the “late 20th century men’s signature scent” concept and does it quite effectively, and in a way that is fairly unique, not resembling another specific scent that I can recall, while nonetheless feeling a part of a grander tradition, rendering it a bit relatable despite its own character. It manages to achieve a spicy concept without using any spices per se, either, furthering sort of lavender-first fougere idea, and it walks the lien effectively between being a bit provocative and also being comforting, familiar, and somewhat easy to wear. The rather loud opening settles down quite a lot within an hour, and it’s a scent I meant even wear on a summer night, just perhaps not a summer day. Overall, it’s an instant love, and I’m very impressed. Of the four I’ve tried, Derby and Basilica are my favorites. Derby, like the rest of the line, is priced at $135 for 100ml, in EDP concentration, a very reasonable price in the current market, and is sold at great boutiques like Perfumology that also sell the Masque Milano line. 8 out of 10

Today, I decided to wear "Derby" while talking about it with you. I guess it could be described as a rustic, galbanum-prominent fragrance, and I also detect some of the other notes for it mentioned on Fragrantica. Also, it could be described as gentlemanly, but perfectly unisex at the same time. I think it's unique, and I don't know what it's similar to. Some might say that its performance is lacking, but I find that it has at least pretty good performance. In the summer of 2021, I got a discovery set from Milano Fragranze. It took me at least a year to conclude that "Derby" is my second favorite from them. I like it a lot. When I tried them all, "Basilica" was clearly my favorite and right from the start. However, I decided that "Derby" is another one I should have in my collection, especially when I saw it for a good price last Dec.

Derby Milano Fragranze has this unique twist that really pulls me in - a blend that somehow evokes a horselike and grassy note, which is strangely wonderful. There's something whimsical about how it smells, sparking memories of the circus trips from my childhood. Those days felt magical, and this scent has a way of taking me back there, making it incredibly special to me. My only issue with this perfume, though, is its projection, it’s so subtle that it barely leaves a trace. It's too faint, which feels like a missed opportunity to fully enjoy such a unique and memory-laden aroma.

Good to know I'm not the only one to notice some formulation inconsistencies. Thought I was seeing/smelling things for a second. I have my official sample and my full bottle. They're different, but I like them both. The sample is incredibly thin, but what's there is beautiful. Licoricey lavender in its brief opening. Powdered cedary woods and mimosa, impressions of hay and leather, very transparent and dry. The bottle is a lot more punchy: Shampoo-like and fresh musks jump out. The salty/woody tuberose is much more noticeable and lends a tad of gummy fruitiness to the fragrance. It's a much more substantial fragrance with more defined phases, but unfortunately the aforementioned crushed woods and powdery mimosa has become less detailed. All things considered I think a swift post-release formulation took place here, since the fragrance is quite recent. In doing so we've left the race course and moved over to the gardens for the post-race interviews.

So the name is a reference to horse racing, and I don't really know why, because if you say Derby to an Italian now they will immediately associate it with a football match between two teams from the same city, which in this case would be Milan and Inter. (I didn't even think horse racing was much of a thing here, compared to England, even if there's a race course near the San Siro stadium.) Also, I don't know how it's doing it with the listed notes, maybe it's the patchouli and sandalwood, but I'm actually getting a lovely smooth leather feel from this with just a little Memo-style "grit" from maybe the galbanum. I was expecting something much more green and grassy given the name and the writeup, but it's not that. So you can wear this one if you're a man, or a horse. I think this one is my favourite so far. If it lasts the day I might consider it for a full bottle.

شروع و پایان هر دو عالی شروعی جذاب که ترکیبی از روایح مرکباتی و هربال هست.لوندری که کمی خاکی و صابونیه در کنار گالبانوم که فضا رو گیاهی طور کرده و کمی هم حس فلز گون ناشی از برگ بنفشه. رفته رفته رایحه به به دست اوکموس می افته و سایر نت ها رو به خدمت میگیره برای قدرت بخشیدن به خودش در جهت به تصویر کشیدن کانسپت عطر که مسابقه ی اسب سواری هست و کمی هم حس اسطبل و مزرعه. بی مانند نیست اما خوش ساخت و با کیفیته. من دوستش داشتم. ************************ scent:8/10 longevity:7.5/10 sillage:6.5/10 purchase value:3/10 ************ overall:6.2/10

I like it a lot. It reminds me a little bit of Guerlain Habit Rouge, but this one is way smoother. I get a green, light, leathery vibe, even though there is no leather in here. Sadly, projection and performance is not really impressive on my skin.

This didn't quite meet my expectations. It's not that it isn't attractive, but it just seems a bit hollow, with very little to ground it. I saw that galbanum was listed, and having a voracious appetite for the mean green, I wanted there to be a bit more of that viridescent presence, but the opening is rather muted. There is a pleasant, polleny mimosa accord, and this stage seemed the most promising: it feels pastoral in feel, and granular to the nose. Suggestions of new mown hay, green wheat, and wild grasses follow, but it's so gossamer, I must really bring my nares close to the skin to experience it. I feel like even a more nuanced style such as this can do more than just a muffled susurration. I don't expect, nor do I frankly want, rustic woody florals to be gregarious, but this is just too mild. It's really such a shame, as it has so much potential. It does make me want to reach for Lorenzo Villoresi's brilliant Yerbamate or Dusita's Erawan instead, as they fulfill in a way that this sadly cannot.

Tbh, I was so(SO) looking forward to trying this one on my skin, because on paper it smelled Great! I could detect a beautiful galbanum note; it was fresh, green, woody... On skin: NOTHING. I'm not kidding or exaggerating; there's a very faint, non descript woody aroma, and that's it! And it's not like I sprayed too little or anything, I sprayed HEAVILY on my hand and jacket, and only a few mites it all vanished both on my hand and on the jacket! This could've been a perfect everyday scent. This confirms what I was thinking: perfumers never try things on their skin.

My experience with Derby has been a bit of a rollercoaster. The first time I encountered it was through a sample I picked up from Ministry of Scent in San Francisco. That initial impression was striking — a vibrant, citrus-forward opening that immediately drew me in. As a devoted fan of the Masque Milano line and having recently visited Milan, I felt compelled to explore Milano Fragranze and chose Derby as my first full bottle from the house. Let me start with the positives: the presentation exceeded all expectations. The bottle is beautifully designed, with thick, weighty glass and an unexpectedly substantial cap. Based on photos and the price point, I had tempered expectations — but in person, the packaging feels premium and thoughtfully crafted. Unfortunately, the fragrance inside the bottle didn’t quite match the excitement I felt from the original sample. In fact, it smelled noticeably different — enough so that I began to question whether there might have been a labeling error with the sample, or possibly some consistency issues in production. That said, the full bottle does align closely with the official note pyramid, which suggests my initial sample might have been just a different fragrance. The core issue for me though, is the performance. Derby has almost no lasting power on my skin. It fades within 20–30 minutes, leaving behind little to no trace, which is deeply disappointing for such a thoughtfully composed scent. I’m holding out hope that with time (and a bit of maceration/maturation), the performance may improve — but at present, it’s a total letdown. Fragrance-wise, however, Derby is beautifully composed. It leans dry, green, and intimate — a vetiver-forward creation that brings to my mind classics like Encre Noire and Hemingway. The mimosa and galbanum add a dusty, slightly floral greenness that gives the scent a unique texture. To me, Derby evokes the feeling of a forest in early October — golden leaves warmed by the afternoon sun, with an earthy breeze brushing through the trees. As much as I admire the composition, the lack of longevity makes this difficult to recommend. When I’m craving this sort of atmospheric, vetiver-rich experience, Erawan or Issara by Dusita deliver it more satisfyingly, with far better performance.

Yes, it is totally possible to evoke the picture described. Drying ordinary grass, a bit of hay and earth, unfragranced ordinary wood, a healthy horse passing by with a leather saddle. A rare thing: a minimalist handful of several non-perfume materials surrounding a horse race. All notes are tweaked beyond recognition to create a headspace olfactory image. I can only name vetiver as a building block for the grass, and a bit of lavender. All of this feels like seen from a distance, though. As if this was prompted to an AI fantasy image generator and it polished it a bit too much. I often like it when "nothing stands out" in a balanced multifaceted composition, but the notes here seem interesting and I 'd actually like some of them to stand out. I don't know if that's the case but I can imagine how this was a bolder idea at first, later tamed in the making for the sake of safety and a broader mass appeal.

Derby by Milano Fragranze to me Smells EPIC. has a Unique Smell that is Classy and elegant! it doesn't clone any other Scent I know around or ever smell! Longevity on me last and last I would say 8 to 10 hours on my skin, and On Test Paper last 1 week almost believe it or not! and on clothes for more than 10 days! is a High-Quality Amazing Scent!!! and last it is a 100% masculine scent!

I don't consider this as a "green" fragrance. For me it sits as between Erolfa amd Millesime Imperial by Creed, leaning more to the Erolfa side and took the better ones of the aforementioned without being a clone. Lasts all day with a decent sillage, a perfect office fragrance. I happily own a bottle and it only makes me want to discover Milano Fragranze more

Esta fragancia ofrece una combinación equilibrada de notas frescas y cálidas que crean un aroma armonioso y agradable. Es versátil, ideal tanto para el uso diario como para ocasiones especiales, y tiene una buena duración. Un perfume que deja una impresión elegante y memorable.

Picture it: Sicily, Italy 2025. An Oakwood table covered with freshly starched linen sitting in a flowery field of lavender, violets and galbanum. Thats this fragrance.

If you have trouble with green perfumes, or with galbanum, don’t worry - this is not overly green. It’s fresh and bright. I like it.