Vétiver

Don’t know why, but both of my bottles, that I bought from the same retail store in 6 months period, smell differently! One bottle gives very strong vetiver notes right from the start, then it softens to something citrusy and almost salivating. In other words it completely matches the note pyramid and people’s votes. The other bottle gives only a small fraction of vetiver and a huge wave of iris and amber with a hint of citruses on the background. Was I scammed? Did I purchase a bottle of “immature” fragrance or the opposite, the second bottle is too old? I will never find it out, but both versions are much valued by me.

I should start by mentioning first that I did choose to get a fb of this one. Now that we got this out of the way I have a couple of more things to say: I love “solifleur” concepts. I love solifleurs done right - like when you search for the perfect rose and you find it and it smells just like rose indeed, but one that has gathered every sunray, every drop of dew, every gentle gust, every warm touch by each surrounding rose, all the secrets of its habitat and the changes of the night ... layers upon layers a solifleur perfume can reveal the very beauty it ought to represent. Here, I can smell the nice vetiver, in a sad sad puddle of chemical mess. It’s a failed modernization attempt of the typical vetiver freshie classics, with ... you’ll never guess .... molecules. The vetiver, however, is so nice that, believe it or not, I am still considering testing it until the cheap “enhancers” either stop bothering me or I just give up trying. If we could just reverse the mixing process, get back the good stuff out of the cheap sauce, and then redo the recipe, the beautiful Haitian and Java vetivers won’t be ruined anymore. Only if we could ... but sadly, we can’t ... When oh when is this trendy madness finally going to make a turn - the degrading of quality ingredients by “enriching” them with disgusting blends of nail polish removers and whatever other cheap mess is mass-produced for profit to be reinvested in more of the same, rather than perfumery based not on artistry and quality and pursuit of ideals. We are financing with positive responses production based on cost cutting on our expense; aggressive habituation of the consumer to cheap quick sensations and entirely profit oriented; not to mention the reckless long-term devastation of the whole tradition and businesses involved in the high-grade organic materials production and processing ... all the tradition, skills and experience replaced by ... pastiche. Enough with my silly useless rant - so ... to the conclusion: Molinard is a traditional house. With Vetiver, not only they managed to stifle its detectable potential into a relatively unexciting scent profile, but they did it with cheap tricks and to the detriment of good materials, which could have taken part in a better formula. If chemical mess was to be excluded from the formula, besides better, it’d be cheaper too ... I believe. Now I have to manually ignore that chemical mess in order to appreciate what should have been the star here - the vetiver. It still is, but, in its very present, but muffled and muddled glory... Forgive my ramble - but being so excited about this scent added to my disappointment, because it’s not a bad scent per se. It’s actually a great scent, but ruined ... And that’s confusing as hell :) I hope you have better luck. It’s a nice everyday scent, worth trying for anyone, who hasn’t been yet fed up with molecules overuse of all “numbers” (iso super e, super cedar , etc...) or like in my case - to layer other fragrances, which can use the early qualities of vetiver + some added sheer effect.

Got this as a tester and it reminds me of Jo Malone’s Darjeeling Tea even though the notes are nothing alike according to Fragrantica. The scent is not the same but it feels like JM’s DT darker cousin. Pleasant if uneventful, unisex, might be nice for formal occasions and casual ones alike. Green, earthy. Spa-like, as in: relaxing and meditative, to my nose a very natural scent (but I am a newbie when it comes to vetiver). I don’t smell much of the blood orange or grapefruit that’s listed. Could also be great for layering when one wants a bit more Oomph! but all in all a decent fragrance for all seasons. EDIT: keep coming back to this, something in there is so beautifully earthy and yet rounded, have since smelled a bunch of really pricey vetiver fragrances and this one remains my favourite. Caved and ordered a full bottle.

Classic manly vetiver: dry, earthy and little green. It has nice citrusy accord as well as a softer woody base (I thought it’s sandalwood, but probably it’s just iris that gives a bit of softness). It’s nice and fresh and very let’s say polite. Good for office! Follow me on IG: scent.guide

Strong dry vetiver. A little bit of richness and little sweet from the amber. Makes me think of a hay ride on a breezy fall day. Perfect fall fragrance.