Bois d'Ascese

This was another of the luckyscent samples a loved one let me try, and it's one I chose to keep. On application, I got smoke, reminiscent of times around a campfire and the scent is like that of a log of pine or cedar wood that's been burnt into nearly black charcoal. It's a bit too smoky for me and I didn't apply much so a little goes a long way. This fragrance also brought me back in time to when I used to attend a women's circle for rituals around a fire out in the woods at night where we'd each apply pieces of birchwood, pieces of pine or cedar and also burnt incense. This fragrance definitely evokes a sense of that sacred space, of incense and smoke and meditation. After the first hour, the scent became more leathery and brought back vivid memories of riding the motorcycle of a good friend where we'd both be wearing leather jackets. There's a spicy-amber mix that comes into play about a hour in and rounds off the fragrance. It's a scent to wear on a day like this one which is cool, damp and rainy, and overcast and where you're going to stay indoors curled up by the fireplace with a good book. I can't imagine wearing this when out with others, nor is it suited to the office due to its intense heady smokiness. It's definitely suited to wearing with a quality leather jacket as the loved one who'd given me this in the luckyscent sample commented when I was wearing it the other day. This is definitely a fragrance for lovers of smokiness and cedar, and it brings to mind sitting around the campfire with friends, pieces of cedar wood being added to keep you warm, and watching the sparks flying up against the darkening evening sky. It's a very evocative fragrance and if you have any memories of campfires when younger or of wearing leather whilst riding a motorcycle, this will vividly bring those memories back to you. The sillage is moderate with it becoming a skin scent more rapidly than I'd anticipated. The projection is quite good, though, and it's easy to underestimate this because once applied your nose quickly adapts to the fragrance so it's best to apply a little at a time. Whilst as a woman I find this quite nice, I prefer to layer it with my Clarin's Eau Dynamisante EDT just to take the edge off the smokiness and to give it a lighter note. That way, too, I'm able to wear it out and people have enjoyed the mix whilst this fragrance on its own often come across as a bit too strongly smoky. However, I'm sure some people prefer not to 'dilute' it in any way and just wear it by itself.

This is the one. The holy grail of smokey smells. I have never encountered pure fiery smoke like this in any other perfume save maybe Smoke and Mirrors/Fumee from Alkemia. Certainly I've never found it in a mainstream or niche perfume. I have been prowling for a bonfire smell for, geez, years now. I have found barbecue sauce juice, I have found dozens of pines, incenses, and tobaccos with bare tiny hints of smoke, and I have found boozey, vanillic, marshmallow candle perfumes, but I have never until Bois D'Ascese found smoke and fire like this. I don't detect all the listed notes, but I am assuming this is a "more than the sum of its parts" situation. To preface, I'm in late summer/early fall Southern California, which is still hovering in the mid 80s, and I am certain this will perform better in colder weather, but I still quite like it even at these temps. I get a super smokey, burning bonfire opening, and that goes on for (in this heat) about 20ish minutes. That starts to fade into a smoked cedar for a good forty minutes or so, and then I start to get the steady fire bubble. I'm in a little cloud of smoke, smoke from a fire, smokey wood, smoked whiskey, smokey amber. I generally DO NOT like amber, but I am not getting sickly sweet powdery amber, I'm getting gooey burning resinous amber. The cade oil brings in a touch of leather, like a leather jacket you wore to a bonfire with smoke clinging to it. It smells dangerous, comforting, amazing. Even in the heat where the smoke and burnt wood could border on too much, I get desert bonfire. I have been wearing it for several days now, in hotter and cooler weather (as cool as it gets out here this time of year, anyhow, which is about the 60s at best), and the smokiness goes from cowboy campire to scottish hearth. It lasted all day and I could smell myself, and my husband could smell me if close enough, but it doesn't project too far, which I personally love. It stayed pleasantly in my clothes like actual smoke. All this from a Luckyscent dabber vial, so I can't wait to smell it from an atomizer. I just adore this. This is signature smell worthy, or at the least signature fall/winter smell. I personally don't think this leans too masculine, I find it very unisex, but I imagine the flowers and sugar perfume crowd wouldn't be interested. I full sized this with the quickness (50 ml shipped with taxes and fees for $150 USD from Nose Paris, for me, is a steal). If you want true bonfire, give this a try.

I am a big fan of Naomi Goodsir perfumes. I have previously tested three samples, two of which led became full bottles. They are compelling, avant-garde compositions, housed in chic, minimal bottles that let the perfumes within speak for themselves. They also manage to be wearable. Bois d'Ascèse is a boozy woody-amber scent, not typically my thing, but an excellent example of its genre. This can be an unforgiving scent profile - too smoky/alcoholic; resembling candles/campfires/potpourri etc. - but BA is refined and clever. I'm guessing the name is tongue-in-cheek - I had to look up the French, but asceticism suggests the opposite of the vices that here are moonlighting as opening notes! It is remarkably well-composed, with each note carefully chosen, making for a scent that develops seamlessly and cohesively. BA opens with a boozy whiskey note, paving the way seamlessly to the balsamic amber base. Tobacco follows closely, dry and plant-like initially, complementing the balsamic, slightly fruity whiskey. The woody base emerges early on, a predictable-if-perfect addition to the boozy, smoky opening. It is full-bodied and realistic, resembling an oak cask here alongside the whiskey. It becomes very dry, with a hint of leather evident as it progresses, likely thanks to the labdanum. I get some cinnamon here, adding a little sweet spice to the balsamic amber. As it develops further, the incense comes to the fore, a seamless progression from the balsamic amber accord as well as enhancing the smokiness of the tobacco. There is a campfire quality to it here, but only as an aside. Oakmoss makes for an earthy counterpoint to the balsamic amber base while rounding out the woody notes to perfection. It remains like this until it fades to a musky, smoky skin scent. Sillage is moderate and longevity is long-lasting. It is a unisex, cold weather scent. A top-notch example of its genre, BA is masterfully-composed with high-quality ingredients, never becoming thin or candle-like. While I wouldn't typically wear this, there is much to admire here. Another excellent scent from this house. 4.5/5.

To me, Bois D'Ascese has two parts. The opening, which lasts around 15 minutes, is an explosion of the listed notes. You get smoke with a distinct hickory flavor (thankfully restrained and temporary) mixed with ambery sweetness and boozey notes from whiskey. It's not as elegant as I make it sound though. The opening is kind of jarring and messy and everything mixes together in a way that you're not sure smells good together. It's smokey, it's cold, it's sweet, it's dry, it's chemical, it's natural, it's confusing. HOWEVER, Then comes the drydown, which lasts around 4 hours, and is the real reason to own a full bottle. It starts off with pencil shavings and quickly becomes the smell of chimneys on the first cold evening of fall. It's amazing the way it makes your skin and close surroundings smell like your clothes do after spending the night by a campfire. It conjures images of dry oak leaves on the ground, crunching beneath leather boots. It captures the way burning wood smells in cold temperature with low humidity, that crispness. I recommend spraying heavily and disregard the opening which doesn't last very long. PS: I am wearing today on a cold fall afternoon and it’s beautiful. There is a base of leather that fits nicely with the theme. Brings back memories of growing up in a house in the woods and my attic bedroom with hardwood floors and the fireplace directly below downstairs.

I can't do this justice right now because it makes me swoon. Might make out w/ my hand where I sprayed the sample if it keeps throwin me those eyes this way...! A bit strong up close in the cedar/smoke departments, the wafts you'll give off from a distance wearing this are otherworldly good. 5 stars! 'High quality' is putting it mildly. Sillage is just right, longevity is great at 8+ hrs on me w/ just a partial sample's worth of a dab. Buying it asap. EDIT: I bought it asap along with Cuir Velours. Wearing it now for only the 3rd time (since it's summer and this is strong, manly juice) in the cool of the evening sitting at home. The cedar and smoke are as delicious as that first magical time I smelled it and there are definite touches of a smooth whiskey to be found intermingled with all these freshly downed cedar logs. A campfire must be nearby... and there's my lumberjack, drinking his Gentleman Jack on the rocks just how I like it ;) Reminds me of: Sex with a lumberjack. Not that I've been there. *looks from side to side* Compliments?: Not needed, I'm in love. I've only worn it around the house because of how manly it is. This is for ME! And a certain deserving man whom I wish to nuzzle up to, perhaps. Sillage: heavier side, spray lightly Longevity: 8+ hrs Experience: worn 3 times (FB) Usually apply: 1-2 sprays [8.28.14]