Sadonaso

The smell of underwear, panties, briefs or trunks doesn’t matter, for me it’s the male one, not dirty, stale, unwashed and uncured for, but worn clean in the morning after the shower and taken off in the evening at the end of work, before going to sleep, or after a workout session. The fabric is soaked in male hormones, sweat, and humors, full of the humidity aggravated by pubic hair prone to sweating. Sadonaso is that smell. It’s exciting, pleasant or unpleasant depending on your tastes, seductive, attractive, intriguing, tempting, mischievous, and causes sexual arousal. It all boils down to personal preference. It’s not a perfume for fetishists or maniacs, or worse, depraved people. More simply, it’s a perfume that, for a few moments, wants to reproduce the smell of a part of the human body, the most intimate one, something halfway between filthy and delightful. In any case, I think the way Gualtiero Marchesi designed it is brilliant! It is something akin to the sexual cycle, from excitement to resolution. To my nose, Sadonaso opens with a bunch of aldehydes mixed with alcohol, which sting the nostrils. The aldehydes are not the ones in hairspray, soapy, mealy, or airy and flowery, but something that resembles body odour, pungent and penetrating. At times, it is like a sulfurous raw cabbage smell. It’s not the undesirable smell of cooked cabbage, but that of freshly cut ones. I don’t find it fishy, or stinky, but the odour we smell and associate with things or thoughts is indeed very subjective. Does it resemble urine? Well, if urine smelled like this we would all be happier. I am a man, and I partly disagree with the similarities I read on other reviews. Maybe the limited edition with the phallic cap conditions the thought and the essence of the perfume itself. I recognize the intimacy with male body odour, the filthy muskiness, the harshness, which is a nice one, and it fits perfectly. Instead, I do not feel the urine part or cat pee. If it is there, it is not stale or skanky at all. Behind this mixture of moods lies a sumptuous, but for now still dormant, vanilla. The aldehydes disperse into the air and I smell the aroma of coffee, but nothing comparable to the coffee note of Montale’s perfumes. It is the aroma of homemade coffee with the moka, which is released into the air when the steam escapes from the moka and the bubbling indicates that the coffee is ready. In short, a sharp opening, rich in human moods and animalic accords. So far, the opening is filthy, sweaty, and plastic. If you are brave enough to face the faecal oud nuances of "Oud Mood Elixir | Lattafa / لطافة" or the animalic and dirty ones of "Kouros (Eau de Toilette) | Yves Saint Laurent", then you have nothing to fear with Sadonaso. As the unusual opening fades, a definitely musky and dirty accord comes in, which grows and grows. But at the same time green, with notes of mouldy tobacco leaves, wild as the beehive, and also feathery light musky rubber, a sort of milky latex. Since this brand never declares the olfactory pyramid, I assume that the urine-like smell is obtained through resins, presumably benzoin alcohol, and honey, but it is a salty honey. There is something that recalls the Tradition is the original Paper D’Armenie, scented with sweet vanilla and balsam notes reminiscent of the scents of the Orient. In the heart, the essence takes on a particular sweetness that will remain until the end, like a sort of infinite cuddle. During the dry-down, the muskiness steps back, and a powderiness from coumarin and vanilla shines and grows. Again, I feel some honeyed nuances, as if wild honey and beehive crumbles were in the ingredients. The vanilla is impressive but everything but gourmand. I associate this aroma with the dark pods, thick and spicy, with a sweaty facet courtesy of the animal musk. This creature is anything but rotten, hefty, or naughty. Instead, it is smooth, powdery-green, with whispers of something bodily and musky. Of course, the muskiness in here comes across as sweaty and pissy, very close to human and body odour. It does not scream, but it stays close to the wearer’s skin. Longevity is above average. I think it is not an ordinary scent, with low versatility, so it needs special occasions. I guess it suits better the cold weather, fall and winter seasons. Polarizing, no doubt. Sweaty, dense, salty, and slightly spotty honey. I am sure that my review sounds weird, though the scent is exactly the opposite, gorgeous, and phenomenal. In the end, I love the concept, and the scent, either. I wrote this review without filters or prejudices, based on a bottle I have owned since January 2025.

Sadonaso is surprisingly wearable for a Nasomatto perfume, and particularly so considering the marketing campaign. As I frequently find with this brand, the formula is kept under wraps, letting each scent speak for itself as an avant-garde olfactory artwork. I have a sample ampoule (small gripe - single-use samples means that they can't be revisited for further contemplation!). I was pleasantly surprised to find that Sadonaso is a coffee-dominant scent. As I've often written here, coffee seems to be a difficult note to use in perfume, despite its distinctive, irresistible aroma. Here, it really works without being just an accurate rendering of coffee, like Akro Awake for example. I really liked Awake, but it isn't immensely wearable by nature of smelling like realistic, straight coffee. Sadonaso opens with a realistic, high-quality coffee note, like freshly-ground beans - dark and spicy. Tonka bean adds smooth spicy/sweetness, the perfect accompaniment to the coffee, adding a slight gourmand smoothness to this scent. Tonka bean is one of those underrated notes that I adore when well-placed - case in point. There is a musky amber undertone, but it is not as dirty as the marketing would have you believe. It becomes increasingly woody as it progresses. I get some toasted hay-like tobacco too, adding some smoky dryness. The coffee-tonka accord persists. Some dry vanilla complements it in the later stages, adding sweetness. The resinous, slightly leathery amber remains in the background until final fade, tying it all together. It fades to a sweet musky skin scent, with some dry woodiness remaining until final fade. Sillage is moderate and longevity is long-lasting, typical of an extrait. Perfectly unisex, it is best worn in autumn/winter. I'm surprised by how much I like this. I took to Sadonaso much more easily than the other Nasomattos I've tested. A rich, well-blended coffee-tonka scent on a woody-amber base, this is high-quality, cohesive and surprisingly wearable. Not as edgy as expected, but I'm not disappointed. A rare successful coffee scent. 4/5.

Nasomatto’s own copy basically admits that Sadonaso is a chase: an unknown desire you keep discovering, sweaty and half‐in‐the‐dark. That framing alone should be enough of a warning label. So no, I don’t recommend Sadonaso to “normal people” looking for a pleasant vanilla. But if you’re after something with a twist, then yes... I might recommend it. All in all, it’s better than I initially expected. The opening is a brusque, bitter‐leaning coffee blast. It comes across slightly burnt, almost abrasive. Gualtieri uses this phase to create the illusion (key word) of something quasi‐urinal... confrontational, yet intentional. As Sadonaso develops, a trifecta of musk, tobacco, and sandalwood takes shape. The tobacco is sweet, the sandalwood creamy, and the musk synthetically animalic. In the dry‐down, vanilla finally emerges, wrapped in that same synthetic animalic warmth. It never becomes a gourmand in the comforting sense. Instead, to its merit it stays faintly unsettling. All very much in line with the brand’s supporting narrative. On a practical level, longevity sits around 12++ hours on skin, with a consistent projection hovering just above a skin scent. That feels appropriate, given the contexts in which it makes sense to wear it. My parting advice remains simple: sample first, especially if you’re expecting a cosy gourmand. This isn’t that, and it’s better for it.

just as weird and offputting as many other releases from gualtieri, this perfume is also a journey to everyone: the first time youre usually thinking "what the actual fuck." like why would someone put an easily detectable urine note in the opening!? simply offputting and unwearable, nobody would buy this, right? and suddenly, the perfume changes: from sharp, sweaty and animalic, the perfume turns into a creamy sweet vanilla perfume, still mantaining an urine undertone that suddenly becomes enjoyable, alongside some notes of coffee and flowers; the scent suddenly becomes aphrodisiac and sexual, this is where things get interesting: if you smell this once again from the beginning, youll realize this creamy vanilla scent is present from the opening of the perfume, constantly accompanying the urine note, which once again starts to feel likeable from the very beginning. with this perfume, gualtieri successfully transforms you into a pervert, as you progressively start to enjoy the raw scent of sticky and warm piss. on a personal note, i am simply addicted to this perfume, each time i put it on skin i cant resist smelling it constantl (even though i can easily say this is NOT a kink of mine or anything); to me, sadonaso is the perfect embodiment of a sex-feeling perfume, sweaty and sweet, animalic and warm. 10/10

Since I'm in my animalic fragrance era, I finally got my hands on Nasomatto Sadonaso, formulated by the edgy and provocative perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri. The 'unofficial' notes are Vanilla, Animal Notes (I get Civet here), Musk, Coffee, Amber, and Tonka Bean. Nasomatto is known for being entirely different from other niche houses, and this creation truly pushes boundaries. I remember the perfumer mentioning that this fragrance is meant to smell like the groin of a man, and I honestly get that exact vibe. My mom also mentioned thtat it smells like dried saliva of a child on a fabric. 😭 It starts off with an overtone of pissy, animalic notes paired with a distinct coffee note, making it an incredibly sensual experience right from the opening. But, the blend of coffee and vanilla here is what truly shines alongside those animal notes. The tobacco note is also present, but it acts more as a quiet supporting note in the background rather than taking center stage. In the drydown, the sandalwood, amber, and tonka bean emerge to give the composition even more powdery, musky, warm, and sweet depth. - Imagine a civet cat wandering into a cafe and casually sipping on free coffees. 🐈⬛☕️ If this is exactly what authentic kopi luwak or civet coffee smells like, I would undoubtedly buy a kilo of it.