New York Intense

As the name suggests, it's a rougher and more intense version of the 1989 original. This is not due to a creative vision change for the original, rather an effort to get the original in compliance with new IFRA regulations. The base notes of the current EdT lack the muscle and stateliness of the original EdT release. To that end, Patricia de Nicolai deserves commendations because 1) recreating the original to new requirements was going to be an extremely difficult task (maybe even impossible) and 2) Nicolai realized that she was not going to be able to get the reformulation so close that discerning noses couldn't tell the original and the Intense versions apart, and she didn't try to hide this from us. Instead, she renamed the perfume with the "Intense" modifier, acknowledging it is, indeed, different. The EdT available to us today is not the same as it was in 1989, so for those of us missing that "heft" of the original, the Intense is here to help satisfy that craving. As mentioned, "intense" is a well-chosen word for this new formulation because the deeper and dark notes of black pepper, patchouli, leather, and woods are rougher and louder. What should be said, though, is that just because these notes are rougher and louder does not mean that they are "rough" and "loud" relatively speaking. While the original New York was as smooth and well-textured as the lightest and most luxurious silk, Intense is more like a luxurious linen. More recent groans about NY, both the original and the Intense, are that it is too old school - and, most definitely, Nicolai is doing her best homage to the masculine Guerlains, Carons, Chanel Pour Monsieur, and other predecessors. It is certainly sticking close to the template. But, it also has Nicolai's unique and individual style. That style is eerily close to Jacques and Jean-Paul Guerlains' - perhaps not a surprise given that she is closely related and was trained in France in those old school ways - but while she has the richness, suppleness, and diffusiveness of the Guerlain style in spades, where she arguably does better is by making the notes more seamless than the Guerlains did. This is on full display with New York (Intense). I'm sure that being snubbed for a perfumer position at Guerlain - despite being supremely well talented, trained, and of blood relations to the Guerlain family - rubbed her very much the wrong way (she's a woman born at the wrong time, especially for the perfume industry), so I cannot help but wonder if this isn't a homage insomuch as this is her giving a big middle-finger to the misogynist perfumers and maisons of her earlier years saying "I can do what you do and probably better." The complete lack of seams between notes has a sort-of abstraction effect, versus the clearer legibility of the older Guerlain compositions. Let your nose be your guide as to which you prefer. I hold them in equal esteem in my perfume preferences, and I think Nicolai successfully makes her case, with New York as proof, that she is an equal to those masters.

New York Intense is the final sample from my Nicolaï discovery set. I saved it for last on purpose, as it is the most celebrated (and likely the most acclaimed) Nicolaï perfume, as far as I'm aware. I smelled it once in a shop a long time ago, and remember liking it, but on revisiting it now and smelling it properly, I am very impressed, and would consider this a masterpiece. NYI is an aromatic, herbal-woody scent with chypre and fougère facets. It is a classic masculine scent, and is an exceptional example of the genre, beautifully-balanced and made with high-quality materials. I have never smelled the original New York so cannot compare the two, but this Intense version is perfection. NYI feels very Guerlain in style, reminiscent in parts of several of their classics. This is particularly interesting, considering that Patricia de Nicolaï is a member of the Guerlain family, and was bizarrely passed over in favour of Thierry Wasser at the time of succession. There are facets of Mitsouko, Jicky and Habit Rouge here, but most notably vintage Derby, of which I have a tiny vial, but NYI is its own, distinctive scent. NYI is bright and fresh from initial spray, with a juicy citrus accord up top, with bergamot most prominent. It is followed closely by damp, herbal notes. I get some bitter artemisia and aromatic thyme. Green, woody petitgrain balances the bitter herbs with its crisp, woody greenness. As it develops, lavender follows, bright and realistic, firmly bringing this scent to barbershop territory. It is a complex but cohesive fougère opening, beautifully-balanced. As it develops, warm spices creep in, with cloves most evident to my nose. Cinnamon follows, adding warmth. The herbal accord lingers, seamlessly paving the way to the deliciously mossy chypre base. The oakmoss is nicely-rendered, and there is an animalic musky undertone, which together with the oakmoss gives this scent an opulent, old-world feel. Despite the richness of the chypre base, a brightness permeates this scent, perhaps due to the tart citron and freshness of the green notes. There is a labdanum note in there, smooth and ambery, with some dry vanilla and a hint of incense adding hints of balsamic sweetness to the base. Again, very Guerlain-coded. It fades to a smooth, refined musky-mossy skin scent, lingering for hours. Sillage is moderate and longevity is long-lasting. It is masculine in my opinion, one of the best classic masculines I have ever tried, but the right woman could pull this off. It is a year-round scent, very versatile, yet so very classy. An exceptional masculine scent, NYI is truly flawless, melding tradition with modernity, and high art with wearable, effortless elegance. It is very French, but leans into its American name in a preppy, undone manner. Mme de Nicolaï here manages to out-Guerlain her own family. Sweet revenge, served cool and crisp. 5/5.

6 sprays at 8:30 am. Ten hours later, at 6:30 pm, I received compliments from 4 adults and even 2 kids who were within about 3-4 feet. One of these adults, a family member, is a lifelong fresh-aquatic scenthound; another, a Chanel lover; the other two, Guerlain fanatics; and the kids both thought I smelled like “holidays and food!” This superbly crafted scent is somehow both strong and soft. Perfect for a man or woman who wants to project power and non pretentiousness. Ideal for both everyday and special occasions. Nothing over the top about this whatsoever. A play of contrasts: bitter yet sweet; sharp yet powdery; spicy yet cool; bracing yet relaxing. The animalics are so subtle as to be non recognizable in themselves but add power to the blend. I would know, since I have no problem applying Firmenich’s Civettone directly to my skin. There are far more Animalic aspects in Jicky, Vol de Nuit, and Shalimar than here. Not the tiny bit of animalics nor the pepper stands out annoyingly in this magically nearly perfect blend. Nothing harsh, brash, or overly assertive about it. Simply smells, from the bright opening through the far-off, everlasting drydown, like an ambery strong hug from a handsome man or gorgeous gal who cooks by day and meditates at night. It teeters on the edge of edible like the best of the classic Guerlains. Lest I forget, this absolutely does contain irone (Iris/orris), just a bit, and Amber, likely labdanum. These, mixed with the vanilla and with the citrus and bouquet de Provence, renders a fully Guerlinade feeling. Again, during the everlasting soft drydown, this is so appetizing it’s almost edible. Those who think otherwise probably aren’t familiar with the classics, especially Guerlain. Perhaps this explains why one must be patient—an hour or more—to reach the mid and drydown phases of this scent. Like classic Guerlain blends, this fragrance unfolds slowly. In this respect, it is the opposite of “New York” itself (fast, frenetic, stressed, bleak) and instead reminds one of a day in Provence followed by a night in Nice. Perhaps Nicolai was sending New Yorkers a message: slow down and focus! Those who love this would also love Jicky, Vol de Nuit, Shalimar, and Tauer’s incense-amber orientals. Perfumes that take time and induce contemplation.

Oh my. The opening reminded me of a million other perfumes, not in a bad way, but I was like er OK nothing new, and I even got some of those frags out and smelled them alongside it (they were totally different of course ha). But what ensued was a journey into heaven, with fizzy citrus top notes glimmering above a mossy, musky, spicy and rich base. It keeps getting better and better and yes, it's as good as eveyone said. For the record, two of the other frags I immediately tested alonsgside were Bois du Portugal and Lalique Pour Homme (Lion). They are identical to each other after the initial 5 mins, but don't resemble NYI at all aside from being roughly in the same wheelhouse. I really don't get the comparison. NYI is far better than either of those two (the Lalique being my preferred scent thereof due to price, lack of cuntyness, and price). New York Intense has to be worn to be believed. It is traditionally masculine, which is one of the things that put me off at first, but it's so good it transcends this piffle of masculine/feminine fragrances. Also. I'd love to smell this on a woman I was dating. One more thing, after a while, the incense starts to creep in, putting me in mind of Amouage, though not one specific perfume of theirs, more like their vibe. Or maybe it reminds me of the remnants of Sunshine Man. Either way, it's a win by all measures. I agree this is a masterpiece, up there with Interlude Man. Update: this is the most "goes on a journey" perfume I own, just utterly brilliant every time.

I was always curious about Patricia Nicolai's New york from reading Luca Turin's glowing tributes to it in his Book as well as the fact that he mentions it was his signature scent for a decade. I have not smelled the original EDT version but having finally gotten my hands on this the EDP version, all I can say was Boy was he spot on! If you are a fan of classic Men's fragrances, you know the kind made for rich, Manly men, this is one of the finest examples I have smelled. Just smells like "Old Money" if you know what I mean! New York Intense has one of the finest classical openings I have ever sniffed. A beautiful herbal blend of citruses, petitgrain, and thyme. Very fresh, green, glorious. The heart is a mix of black pepper, cloves, and floral aspects from lavender. The base is a classic oakmoss strengthened by darker bits of civet and castoreum and balanced with hints of incense and musk as well. Very rich, thick and masculine but refined and smooth also. The whole composition is like a piece of classical music with perfect poise, balance and complete harmony. Projection is great without being obnoxious, Longevity is excellent, 8 hours plus on me. I cant recommend this enough. For someone like me who is a fan of classical frags like Chanel's Pour Monsieur or Creeds Bois du Portugal, New York Intense is those fragrance concepts perfected. Great quality of ingredients, great performance, Outstanding work all around.If ever there was a tribute to Patricia Nicolai's Guerlain genes, this is it. 9.5/10