Sulphur [16S]

My expectations on Sulphur were pretty high so I approached this fragrance with some trepidation... The first thing that comes to mind is Kinski...and then, to a MUCH lesser extent, Chypre Palatin. Nose tingling opening with a blast of angelica and grapefruit. The sulphuric vibe is definitely there. Sort of salty, pungent and unquestionably yellow in the chromatic scale. Costus and castoreum take over right away with their unmistakeable, warm musky, leathery / animalic, wet-hair presence. There's a *green thing* going on that made me immediately think about vetiver but it could honestly be a sort of sinergy between other elements to create this effect because it almost dissipates within the fragrance evolution. In this phase I think of Kinski. Kinski is definitely more centered around vetiver, bolder and more straight forward whereas Sulphur belongs more to the Comme Des Garcons type of aesthetic. It's unquestionably there and while it doesn't scream, it definitely strikes. The drydown is smoother, simple but very refined and extremely well blended. Cinnamon, resins and smooth woody notes bring the fragrance to a slightly more oriental territory while an unquestionable vetiver note remarks its presence in full force. Very pleasing, slightly twisted, sort of safer than the opening / middle phase but so enjoyable... If I were to sum it up in a bunch of words, my impression is that it could be sort of an office-friendly version of Kinski. As much as it might sound disappointing, that's exactly the opposite. There's a sense of restraint to Sulphur (and to most of the other Nu_be deliveries) which I find incredibly compelling and successful. I can see myself wearing this on a regular basis. In this context, this will probably appeal more to Comme Des Garcons fans than, say, to those who are looking for a unapologetic and straight forward composition. Just lovely. Rating: 7.5-8/10

Another Antoine Lie masterpiece,very much on the ELO style of perfumes and in fact it seems a variation of ELO's Eloge du Traitre and Carrogne. The whole collection is interesting and made with hight quality ingredients. Sulfur is a complex woody aromatic fougere but without oakmoss, blending herbaceous notes like rosemary and thyme with the camphorous pine and laurel on the dry down, moderatly sweet, with a good projection and distinctive elegance. A morning fragrance uplifting and with a possitive Aura. 10/10

I got a tester of Sulphur thanks to a friend, and I have quite enjoyed wearing it. It has a big downside in lack of longevity though. I found this fresh and herbally--very easy-going and casual. Somewhat sharp and sour in the opening but not enough to be off-putting--more intriguing than bothersome. I definitely got the grapefruit, angelica early; the cedar and I think oakmoss later on. I definitely never detected cinnamon nor anything animalic. It isn't soft, really, but it is very wearable. I guess my big beef is that it is mostly gone after 2 hours, and even though I'm very forgiving and willing to re-apply, this would be a poor value for money I think... (not that it's very available anymore anyway.)

231) Rallumer le Feu In opening there is a kind of (sulfuric) explosion, a twisted chypré, a mixture of bitter citrus on rotten woody base genre Oud. After that is much softer and very similar to my nose to Le Feu by Issey(RIP). Musks give the impression of breathing a boil of hot milk in which floats a stick of cinnamon and red flower petals. It's very original and ,as always with this very good brand, easy to wear.

This is a pleasant, safe, discreet warm weather scent with great versatility. It's all about a woody, citrucy angelica with intensive rosemary. Again, the feeling of the notes is synthetic but very pleasant and well mixed. Dominant notes are cedar (exactly the same smell as in Escentric Molecules), angelica, grapefruit and rosemary. I don't get castoreum and moss. The rest notes are mild. In the air it smells a woody note like cedar with very mild citruses. Performane is moderate overall.

Smells like something I would smell from Comme des Garcons or UFO perfumes. green woody animalic

Castoreum, cedar and rosemary is all I get. Not for me.

reminds me of Splinter from Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles when he crawl on sands and then get sweat. awfully done.

This one tricked me. The top notes appear to be engaging, and there's quite an animalic whack that leads you to believe that this is going to be somewhat of a fun, risky ride. But really, it’s just a lousy stab at cranking up iso butyl quinoline (a weird, pickled leather chemical) and getting away with it. This sort of abrasive herbal / citric / castoreum opening has been done better in Kinski, and after just a few minutes, Sulphur settles down into a relatively screechy and linear crisp citrusy thing that’s really not that far removed from department store flanker stuff (just a tad grungier). Granted, it’s working on mainstream appeal from the angle of artistic perfumery rather than mediocre industrial beauty product, but it’s still nothing special. The worst part though, is what it becomes. The vivid opening that gets your attention strikes me as a way to distract from what lies beneath. It’s hard to distinguish the individual components, but the main chord here seems to be a lysol-esque pine against Febreeze citrus against something anonymously woody. When mixed together, this reads as a shrill, inoffensive “fresh” effect that’s neither screamingly artificial, nor is it something recognizable in nature. It’s quite loud at first, and gave me a bit of a headache, but then it tamed down somewhat just kind of buzzed. Imagine taking a fluorescent yellow marker to your skin—that image is sort of what this smelled like for me. The Kinski aspect is omnipresent, and if you’ve ever worn Kinski, you might find yourself scratching your head as to why they cited it so closely (although it's not a copy). But the sad thing about this scent is that after just a couple of hours, it all starts to fall apart and reveals a very pronounced and obvious Iso E Super that sticks around for the rest of the day. While it’s understandable that a scent like this—structured upon what are essentially shrill, thin notes—would require Iso E for backing, good taste would dictate that at least an attempt to veil the Iso E would be advisable. But it’s left wide open—as if considered as a positive contribution. And this is why Sulphur feels dishonest to me: not only is it lifting from a preexisting idea (Kinski), it’s doing it really poorly. It tells you it’s one thing upfront, and then once it’s got you hooked, it takes off running, leaving behind something entirely different. It’s not *awful* by any means (and it’s not nearly as bad as Blood Concept—but the cheesy gimmick and the lousy use of "quirky" aromachemicals certainly push it perilously close to that line), but for this price point, this scent should offer much more than what it does. To me, this one’s a bit of a hack job.

Sulphur [16S] by One of Those (Antoine Lie) has a juicy, green-bitter beginning. From the very first moments, one can smell the beautiful aroma of angelica. Antoine Lie explores here very different aspects of its aroma. Angelica itself smells quite tart, with light herbal accents. Its naturally spicier and peppery side is emphasized by the addition of cinnamon. For a while it even manages to dominate the first phase of the scent. However, the perfume remains cool and never takes on a spicy warmth. Interestingly, there is not much citrus in the head of Sulphur [16S], the only representative of this olfactory family in the reviewed fragrance is grapefruit. The most interesting thing about this creation, however, is that in my opinion it does not have a heart phase. Yes the scent evolves, but after its extended head phase we get the base right away. That, what we smell after the first phase is over, we will smell until the end of its duration on the skin. And what is the mentioned "that"? For me, a mixture of woody notes and musk. The delicate sweetness of the aforementioned cinnamon serves as a bridge through which a slightly sweet guaiac wood was also introduced to the scent. However, its aroma is not dominant. It fits well with the light style in which this perfume is maintained. Additionally, the beautiful angelica can be smelled very clearly all the time. However, the most important actor at this stage of Sulphur [16S] is musk. Warm, soft and creamy. It smells very natural and very traditional. It provides a really interesting counterbalance to the main theme of angelica bitterness. Despite its presence, the composition remains rather cool. It also retains a daytime character, perhaps because Antoine Lie managed to color the mentioned musk with a bit of fresh green. A really intriguing treatment. 🔸🔶🔸🔶🔸🔶🔸🔶🔸🔶🔸🔶🔸🔶🔸🔶🔸 🔹Main note: Angelica 🔹Author: Antoine Lie 🔹Launched: 2013

A dry and vile combo of angelica and dehydrated grapefruit which somehow makes me think of sandpaper. If I look closer, I recognize the culinary smell of rosemary, and then I even start to think that all other notes are modeled around its pungent persistent presence. For me, rosemary is the most peculiar spice: if you overdose even the slightest bit, the dish starts to feel like something you're not supposed to eat. This sums up my experience with the fragrance as well, and it's quite true to the expectations one probably has from a liquid called Sulphur. I fail to recognize anything else beyond this initial yellow-green chemical bitterness. But I like to wear it from time to time. Sulphur smells like emotional detachment all the way, and there are moments when this is just what I need.

another one i sampled years ago very green - planty shrubs and herbs, animalic, pepper, spices, soil, mossy, cedar wood medium sillage & longevity