Foin Fraichement Coupe

The notion of new-mown hay in perfume comes with some truth and some poetic license. The concept in perfume was embroidered by the idyllic romance of the late 19th century retreat from early industrial toil: coming home to the essential. Built heavily around coumarin, linalool, clary sage, lavender, with also a fair amount of acetophenone—a sweetly pungent material that smells of hawthorn and mimosa blossoms—this concept would be quite popular in the early 20th century. Even Guerlain and California Perfume Company, a predecessor to Avon, would have their own versions. One prized "New Mown Hay" is that of Floris London, of which I was able to acquire a sample. It's simple, vivacious splendor reminds me of crushed woodruff and braided sweetgrass, whipped in a musky sunlit haze. In Poucher's Perfumes, Cosmetics, and Soaps Volume II, there lies a section devoted to New Mown Hay with a Foin Coupe base and a finished New-mown hay perfume demonstration. This leads me to Oriza L. Legrand's Foin Fraîchement Coupé, which is the closest to what I've smelled of that vintage Floris—a bracing, heirloom barbershop fanfare opening all clean, soapy, yet rustic, anisic and pastel green pepperiness. Here, there is that fair amount of clary sage, sheering out the middle, that aforementioned acetophenone, and also benzophenone (also listed in the Poucher base), which is powdery and sharp, what I would best describe if a geranium scented wood existed in nature. In Legrand's notes breakdown, sainfoin is listed: an herbaceous legume with pink blooms often used for hay crop with a sweet clover scent of which I am not acquainted but would love to be. Also listed is, curiously enough, soapwort, an old-word wildflower that had been introduced to the US which is distantly related to carnation (Caryophyllaceae). Also referred to charmingly as "bouncing bet," I am quite familiar with its late-summer fragrance that reminds me of a more gentle orange blossom when met with intimacy. I do pick up this sensation in the heart. The exuberant core of Foin Fraîchement Coupé eventually winds down to a powdery, yellow-green cut-grass musk, blanketing my skin with comfort. It's great to imagine another time, long ago, when the whimsy of a 'new-mown hay' perfume such as this one would lead to reverie for weary minds, whether it be applied to ones skin to nurture the heart or applied to a handkerchief to be inhaled for a brief escape. Now this isn't the only one of its kind in my collection, I also have and adore Fieno from Santa Maria Novella, decidedly Italian in design with its hesperidic opening, being more resinous in its base: equally charming; see my review for that gem.

Foin Fraîchement Coupé (“freshly cut hay”) is my fourth favourite Oriza fragrance, right after Le Regent, Relique, and Secret Joly. Each of them carries its own unique story and was love at first sniff for me. This may be the cleanest fragrance from the house that I’ve tested so far, with a strong presence of the brand’s classic DNA, perhaps heightened by the cool brightness of mint and star anise. There’s a light, almost storybook-like delicacy to it- airy and graceful, yet grounded in that unmistakable Oriza signature. The opening is indeed reminiscent of a vintage barbershop. The scent of shaving foam and aftershave weaves through the composition from start to finish, gradually softening in the dry-down. Beneath that lies a refined blend of dry herbs, soft musk, and a gentle powderiness that gives the fragrance a vintage character. It feels clean in an intimate, skin-like way- comforting rather than sharp- with the musk forming a steady backbone throughout its development. The green aspect here isn’t lush or dewy; instead, it leans toward sun-dried grass and freshly cut hay- crisp, slightly austere, and beautifully restrained. My partner notes a faint synthetic nuance, almost reminiscent of an air freshener. I can somewhat agree; however, I find this impression is limited to the first hour of wear, likely due to its strong projection- which I personally appreciate. Its longevity and sillage are amazing- I would say it matches Le Regent in this regard.

"Aromatic green" is misleading because it's extremely powdery and not very green at all. I do smell a bit of mint when it hits the skin, but it quickly dries down into a powdery musk. It's quite potent, with strong sillage. I have been around a lot of hay, and this does not smell like hay. It smells more like a classic, powdery Italian cologne, reminding me of Fieno ("Hay") by Santa Maria Novella, another one that doesn't smell like hay, but I prefer Foin Fraichement Coup, as it seems brighter. The herbs give it a carefree feeling. I don't know why these perfumes even mention "hay" because there is nothing powdery about hay. I have to surmise it's because of their delicate, underlying sweetness. Powdery perfumes are often cloying and can be borderline stuffy, so I would not suggest this in warm weather but in cool weather when you want to feel cozy. Essentially it's a powdery perfume with a really nice herbal twist. I would highly recommend to someone who is looking for a very unique powdery perfume that is not a loukhoum-type nor a floral-powder like baby powder (Ombre Rose, for example). Regardless of whether there is hay in here or not, I find it absolutely beautiful.

This fragrance definitely opens with angelica, hay and musk. Im really starting to warm to the angelic note. This is fresh, sweet and yet so delicate. I am immediately transported to a walk through a woodland in spring. Everything is fresh and bursting forth into life after their winter slumber. I dont get any plastic or baby diapers!! It has that same uplifting quality as Chypre Mousse. I love star anise and I think its part of what makes me love it so much although it is not very obvious. I will make a guess that its the sainfoin and clover that provide the very natural nectary sweetness here. One of the best green spring fragrance I have had the pleasure to put my nose to.

I was in the woods this morning, walking and really enjoying the subtle green freshness in the air. Dew dripped from the leaves, soil breathed out lightly, birds sang to each other as the sun rose over the trees. This perfume recreates that feeling. Cool morning air laced with a watery green freshness. Everything feeling of nature, natural and innocent. This is a very clean perfume, but not at all in the sense of soapiness. It’s truly lovely. There is the slightest refrain of mint, of anise, and later of peppery pelargonium. But mainly it smells of sweet fresh greenery. For all its gentleness it has moderate sillage and 7 plus hour longevity.