Nawab of Oudh

What Geza Schoen attempted, borrowing the British format of Ormonde Jayne, is not mere imitation of an "oriental perfume." It is an attempt to reconstitute the emotional register of a lost courtly culture through contemporary molecular design—the construction of a "warm cloud" that imparts temperature to space itself. To decode this perfume, we must first descend into the double meaning of the word. Oudh, the term that crowns the title. Most consumers will take it as the name of the precious aromatic—agarwood. Yet read critically, the word simultaneously points to the historic kingdom of Awadh (Oudh) in northern India. The court culture of the Awadh dynasty, established in 1722, was one of the high points of Ganga-Jamuni culture—that intersection of Persian and Indian aesthetic sensibilities—and was known as a space of extraordinary refinement in poetry, music, rose water, and perfumery. At the opening, what strikes the nose is the sharp chill of bergamot and aldehydes. But beneath this cold surface a soft heat is already pulsing. The spice notes of pimento and bay are perceived less as simple "warmth" than as a damp warmth closer to the pulse of blood. Where the standard oriental perfume describes a temporal arc "from cold to warm," Schoen has stacked cold and heat along the vertical axis. This sensation—blood flowing beneath ice—is what separates the work from being merely another sumptuous spice perfume. At the center of that heat, rose slowly emerges. But this is not a rose of fresh, dewy petals; it carries a subtly antiqued texture. With the surrounding spices, particularly the eugenolic nuances, the rose perceptually begins to take on a classical shading reminiscent of carnation. It is not merely a Western rose, but one that faintly evokes the memory of the Indo-Persian world, where gulab—rose water—occupied a central place in courtly culture. The rose here functions not as ornament but as a cultural anchor binding the work to a specific place. And what releases all of this into space is Schoen's handling of Hedione. This molecule, which has reshaped perfumery since Eau Sauvage in 1966, Schoen treats not merely as an agent of transparency but as a material for sculpting space. Hedione builds an invisible bridge between bergamot and rose, converting what could have been a heavy construction from a "mass settling onto the skin" into "a warm current of air surrounding the body." On skin, the fragrance is in fact astonishingly light. The viscosity and over-resinous quality common to spice-led compositions are thin here; the work trembles with the air like a fine textile. After a few hours, rose and spice quietly merge, and from beneath them seep the dry leather and faint bitterness derived from agarwood. The texture of the late phase is closer to weathering than to density. The brand's own phrase, "a soft oudh edge," is precise. Agarwood is not the lead. It is placed at the periphery of the composition, introducing a faint shadow and a trace of roughness into a beauty that might otherwise be too perfectly civilized. Along the temporal axis it blurs the contour of the base notes; along the spatial axis it lends a slight gravity to an otherwise light diffusion. It is precisely because of this "single drop of wildness" that the work does not collapse into mere upper-class refinement. Nawab of Oudh is traditional yet molecular, built on heavy spices yet light as air. It speaks of Oudh as a place name while pushing Oudh as a raw material into the background. By housing these contradictions with such elegance, the work asks to be read not as a literal translation of materials but as a translation of cultural space. For anyone expecting the dense intoxication of agarwood, it will disappoint. But if one understands fragrance as the design of air, this perfume deserves to be remembered as one of the defining intellectual orientals of the 2010s. 8.5/10

This perfume is undoubtedly one of the most exquisite fragrances I have ever encountered. It embodies the essence of an “oriental fragrance”, evoking a sense of opulence and allure. While the name suggests it to be an oud fragrance, the true inspiration behind this scent lies in the Nawab of Oudh, also known as Awadh. This title translates to “Governor of Awadh,” referring to the kingdom of Awadh in ancient India. Renowned for its wealth and cultural significance, Awadh’s Nawaabs were instrumental in transforming the region into a premier center of Indian culture, refinement, and luxury. This perfume seeks to capture the essence of Awadh’s legacy, transporting the wearer to a world of elegance and sophistication. The moment you spray this on, this fragrance presents a captivating cardamom note, complemented by a subtle touch of rose. The composition is further enriched with citrus elements, particularly orange and bergamot, which impart a refreshing and invigorating quality. The presence of aldehydes contributes to the fragrance’s airy and ethereal nature, a characteristic that is emblematic of Ormonde Jayne’s signature scent profiles. Once the fragrance starts to dry down, the presence of citrus notes diminish, leaving behind a captivating and delectable cardamom, complemented by the rose. While I may not be an ardent admirer of the note of rose, the manner in which they it integrated here, in support of cardamom, exemplifies exceptional perfumery. The resulting blend is truly exceptional. Additionally, a subtle hint of cinnamon is introduced, harmonizing with the rose to create a distinctly Middle Eastern scent profile. The scent profile remains relatively consistent here on, subtly developing a more woody and musky character while maintaining its airy essence. Notably, the note of sandalwood, another signature element of Ormonde Jayne fragrances, emerges during the drydown. The overall composition exudes an aura of authority and exclusivity, enveloping the wearer in a captivating scent profile that lingers throughout the day. Regarding wearability, this fragrance is more versatile than one might expect based solely on the note breakdown. While it appears to carry some heavy notes, the presence of aldehydes creates an airy scent profile. This makes it suitable for year-round wear and during any time of day. The moderate silage notes make it ideal for both casual and formal occasions. Additionally, the scent profile is unisex, leaning slightly masculine, making it suitable for both men and women. This fragrance lasts all day and comes and goes as you’re wearing it, with a very soft, yet present projection. My experiences are with a bottle bearing the batch number 2107210 - 13004.

Well named: this is a huge, opulent, spicy, utterly commanding scent. No hype, this will make you feel downright majestic. Almost overpoweringly strong and heady - and I'm a female, experienced niche-head user, trying only the 'standard' not the Intensive version. It still makes me reel back, head spinning, brain going boinnngggg! inside my skull. Giant explosive delicious bang of spice at first, sweetening and swelling with great waves of dark, rich, velvety rose bathed in cinnamon syrup. Deeper darker notes of ambergris and musk and oud and bay keeping it all prickly and interesting, even amid all the silky billowing floral stuff. (The oud is dark but not bitter, the musk fascinatingly funky.) The whole effect is decadent, voluptuous, bejewelled - absolutely soaked in luxury, not vulgar (this is the genuine article, not cheap bling) but not at all discreet either. Like some sort of regalia-armour, magnificently adorned, padded, tasseled, upholstered regal robe, embroidered with seed pearls and covered with gold thread and real jewels. It bolsters your resolve, no question. Your very own private scented silk palanquin. Could be overwhelming if you use too much or on really hot days - it's so rich it could be a little indigestible. Pretty perfectly unisex but you must be prepared to deal with both diva-like, almost-blowsy petals AND very intense, nearly butch aromatics at once. Astonishing staying power and projection even on my peasant skin, which chews up most scents like the hopeless pretenders they are. This one claims its imperial rights and holds on to them. Absolutely regal (and priced to match). I wish I didn't like it as much as I do, and I wish the exquisite spice of the first few hours stuck around for longer; although the later hours are still gorgeous they're not quite as charismatic and punchy as that extraordinary opening. I grovel at the throne of this Nawab! *A side story: bizarrely, I test-smelled this in a department store one day and found absolutely nothing interesting or exceptional about it. Probably my nose had been battered by a couple of other scents at the time- because I wrote NoO off as an 'OK but not exciting vague floral' - what the hell? Maybe the wrongest wrong snap opinion I've ever had. Don't judge this one until you've given it a good wearing, from a totally legit sample, without any other conflicting smells on. It deserves no less. In fact it probably deserves a pledge of lifetime loyal service...

So, I have never struggled to write a review as I have done for Nawab of Oudh- - Intensivo by Ormonde Jayne (Four Corners of the Earth Collection) and the reason for the same is first it’s a complicated fragrance and other is the name is kind of misleading as I was looking for oud and I was finding none and that kept me confused for some time as I was wondering what other reviewers are smelling which I am not however after wearing this for few months or so I think I can write a review on it. This Perfume is inspired for 4 corner series of Ormonde Jayne where inspiration came of Nawab’s which is title given by Mughal emperors to semi-autonomous ruler’s in South Asia The main notes in this are Green notes, Rose, Magnolia, labdanum and oud in it is very subtle like its standing in the background looking at bay leaf, rose and Labdanum take all the limelight. As you spray this perfume you smell green orangey citrusy smell with touch of Cardamom in it and the combination of them is quite pleasant to your nose hence making it very easy to wear. This stays like this for few minutes and citrusy opening gives away to dark rose along with earthy smell of vetiver and it keeps the green undertone to it from the opening. One of the thing which I could understand from perfume journey till now is none of the notes are over powering and you must smell it closely to understand all the notes. 3 Hours onwards till end of this perfume journey which last abot 12-16 hours one me it smells royal/nawabi and royalty comes from Labdanum which is finely blended with jasmine and as you may know labdanum is used to create amber so it gives that ambary feeling also. Nawab of Oudh- - Intensivo has just perfect silage where you will leave a scent trail and beast longevity as once it lasted more than 16 hours after just 3 to 4 sprays. Projection is also good with its projecting with in your hands distance. One of other thing which I observed was quality of ingredients as every note I detected was so natural and highest grade of that note and I think it had ambergis in the base which was “creed quality “. All of this comes at a hefty price tag of 280$ for 50ML which is not easy to be recommended but is this perfume worth that price tag? HELL YES, it is as it is one of best nawabi (Royal) fragrance I have smelled and I did not pay anywhere close to retail so I am happy! (10/10) Alternative : NONE

Nawab of Oudh – Revisiting an old favorite. I wrote about Nawab of Oudh years ago, and revisiting a travel-size bottle today, I’m surprised by how much I still enjoy it. The overall spirit of the fragrance still feels like Egoiste fused with something darker and more austere. But rather than simply being “Egoiste + rose oud,” it now strikes me as though the structure of Egoiste itself had been rebuilt around oud, then layered with a cold, almost severe rose note. That rose treatment reminds me strongly of Guerlain’s Rose Nacrée du Désert — sadly discontinued, and one I ration carefully from the single bottle I still own. There is also a faint resemblance to Frederic Malle’s Portrait of a Lady , though Nawab feels less dry and austere, and instead more fluid and airy in texture. The rose here shares that same sharp, cutting quality, but feels lighter and more restrained. Perhaps this comes from Ormonde Jayne avoiding both the heavy balsamic base found in Guerlain’s composition and the dense woody undercurrent that anchors Portrait of a Lady . The oud itself remains one of the fragrance’s greatest strengths: airy yet penetrating, handled with remarkable transparency rather than density. This is also very much a western interpretation of oud : clean, transparent, and almost abstract in texture, without the animalic or barnyard facets often associated with more traditional Arabic oud compositions. In fact, the oud itself feels less dominant than the rose and the underlying Egoiste -like structure. Combined with Ormonde Jayne’s signature green nuance, it gives the opening a distinctive character that still feels unusual even after smelling countless rose-oud compositions over the years. The drydown still drifts toward something more familiar, but today I appreciate the transition more than I once did. Even after all these years, this still feels entirely full-bottle worthy to me. Rating: 8.5-9/10

Saadat khan, the first Nawab of Awadh (Oudh), was standing on the balcony of his palace in Faizabad, overlooking a spice market nearby. Hustle and bustle of people vigorously working caught his eyes. But what kept him there were the whiffs of Cardamom and Bay Leaf along with Red Spices, greeting his nose so much so that he could almost taste it on his tongue. Light air of the morning extended the olfactory experience which was interrupted when his servant announced that his bath is ready. Dissatisfied with the interruption, he stepped away from the balcony and into the bath made out of roses and jasmine, which uplifted his mood again. After his bath and donning himself with Royal Outfit, he entered his imperial court. His physician greeted and asked about his health. Emperor eyed his physician as his clothes had stains from powdered medicines made out of Cinnamon. He sat down on his throne for the daily session when something bothered him. He looked left and right but could not find the one thing that could have elevated his episode of olfactory bliss, one thing that keeps him sane amidst his concerns for his subjects and for his complicated succession. He missed his oud burner. He sighed and signaled to start the court session. Nawab of Oudh by Ormade Jayne is a beautiful airy, regal fragrance backed up by spices and florals. Albeit of what Fragrantica says, it does not contain any "Oud" (or at least i don't get any). Performance of this masterpiece is off the charts as it lasts for over 10 hours with strong projection in first 3-4 hours. In my opinion, it could be a perfect companion for springs and summers for all occasions. But due to its higher price tag and the sophistication it brings, i would keep it for special occasions.

I have the Intensivo version and adore it. I'm not a big fan of green scents but the open of this composition is very well done. It adds a freshness to the scent without headlining heavy citruses which seems to be the common method. Fresh, like stepping out to your house porch on a crisp fall morning and the dew is still on the vegetation. The real magic of Nawab is in the heart and especially the drydown. The blend is some of the best work I have come across, period. No individual notes are distinguishable to my nose once the heart is reached. The overall scent profile is amazing, addictive and much more than the individual notes that contributed to its existence. Oud is present in the base, similarly to Royal Oud, acting as a fuzzy, warm & woody adhesive holding all of the other base notes together. I LOVE the drydown and can honestly say it is one of the best, if not the best, base blends ever to have come across my nose. My only gripe is that this scent stays very close to skin and does not project its narcotic scent past a personal scent bubble. Longevity is not an issue so I over look the other measure as perfection not being a real thing. When sampling this scent I really hope people are giving it a full wear and continually checking back to see how it gracefully blooms (more accurate than transitions in this case) from green stem to a magical blossom straight out of the garden of eden. Scent wise this blend is nothing shy of 5 Stars.

Gorgeous and Beautiful! My Favourite from the Perfume Line " The Four Corners of the Earth" I have tried it at the Ormonde Jayne Boutique in Sloane Square and in the Room of luxury at Harrods. I have also been very lucky to receive a sample courtesy of Ormonde Jayne and Basenotes. Thank You! This perfume will awake some long lived memories...you have been warned... The scent starts with the most beautiful sunny and crystalline green, orange and possibly lemon and bergamot notes that will take you back to your childhood when you will have had freshly squeezed orange juice with a few drops of lemon and sugar for dessert. What a lovely flashback! This green citrusy olfactory accord lingers forever and blends beautifully with the heart notes of the scent; I can detect rose (possibly taif type) and magnolia but must admit that what keeps me enchanted is the sunny green accord of the beginning; it is so well done and it does last forever. The dry down arrives after a very long time and consists of musk and vetiver but it is so well blended that I can barely detect any of the other notes. The Longevity is amazing; one spray in your chest will last you the whole day and will stay with you the following day even after a full shower. What an amazing discovery of a Perfume! I shall be getting the bottle very soon. Thanks very much Ormonde Jayne. Double Thumbs up!

I got a couple 4 oz bottles, still waiting on the intensivo. I like it a lot, but I think it leans a little mature and gives me barber shop vibes. It's a little sharp and spicy, but super well blended, and still has a satisfying smoothness. To me it smells like it has a lot of depth and complexity. I'm impressed by the fact that it has this sort of mature scent profile, but I don't find it offensive in the slightest, and not only that, I'm finding it a little addictive and want to keep sniffing over and over. The only thing I can compare it to is a sort of a more sparkly offshoot of Starlight, because I guess I'm picking up on a very realistic cardamom note that I like a lot, but I like it even more in this context than Starlight. In fact, it is smelling A LOT like that to me. Don't go blind buying multiple bottles like me lol, but I definitely recommend sampling if you like the sound of all of that. I'll have to give it a good few more wearings to determine how much I'd reach for it, but I am seriously impressed with how pleasing it smells. It smells expensive and smells like incredible precision and thought went into it. I don't think it's very unisex, personally. It strikes me as pretty masculine. And I have no clue what the comparisons to Ultime are all about. It is not in the same realm whatsoever, in my opinion.

I'm a big fan of Ormonde Jayne and I've pretty much tried everything from the brand even the new Elixir's, so it was a bit odd that this didn't stand out first time, but it certainly has on this revisit. Schoen's output for this brand has to be marvelled at clearly a fusion of his modern architecture and more traditional luxury brand naturalism. They all have a neutrality and balance without being bland, sort of inscrutable but not lacking definition. Nawab of Oudh is no exception in fact it's pretty special stuff, The opening is airy, cool and aldehydic and the feel Geza manages to capture is OJ to a T and although doesn't smell like it has the same vibe as Montabaco. The rose note is so delicate just suspended and floating through the middle of the composition. Because this has the same synthetic feel as many Ormonde Jayne's I would say there's real oud, It's not overt though like the Cambodian oud added to Ta'if Elixir but this is more the slightly rubbery, woody variety. Some warm in this just a heavenly drydown caps off a stunning fragrance. This is not the most hardcore or 'Oud' fragrances so if you're after that look elsewhere.

Nawab of Oudh by Ormonde Jayne is a fragrance that showcases the signature style of perfumer Geza Schoen and the distinctive DNA of the brand. While its name suggests an emphasis on oud, the fragrance is actually a complex blend that highlights florals and spices with a fresh citrus opening. The scent begins with a vibrant burst of green notes, bergamot, orange absolute, cardamom, and aldehyde, offering a bright and refreshing start. This citrus freshness evolves into a heart filled with rose, magnolia, orchid, pimento, bay, cinnamon, and hedione, creating a rich tapestry of floral and spicy elements. The base features ambergris, musk, vetiver, labdanum, and a soft touch of oudh, adding depth and warmth without overpowering the other notes. Nawab of Oudh is a masterpiece of modern perfumery, capturing a synergy of ingredients that create a dynamic and sophisticated scent. It is perfect for those who appreciate a fragrance that balances complexity with elegance, making it a standout in the world of contemporary perfumes.

Indian Paradise, welcome to the Realm of Joy... If I ever get married in India, celebrating a traditional Indian wedding, it's gonna be a must for all our guest to smell like this. A 2 ml sample of this heavenly juice will be included with every single wedding invitation... "Smell-Security" will check it at the entrance... This is joy, beauty, and happiness in a bottle. I've done multiple perfumes "blind-test" with friends at home, and this has been consistently in the top-5 of everybody that has ever joined any of my "olfaction" events. In the first second you spray this on, a smile will be popping up in your face. Sweet aldehydic white flowers with a hint of citruses is what you get in the opening. Then a fruity rose and some spices (cardamon and saffron) will join, and be with you for the rest of the day. To me it's like this perfume had no base... you can enjoy the heart as long as you want... Originality: high Scent: 9.5/10 Performance: Beast Would I buy it: YES (this will be in my collection for ever)

It's always a great thing to find people of like mind, people that are already doing the things you dreamed of. Linda Jayne, creator of this incredible concoction is a world traveler and passionate about rare exotic oils. Nawab of oud is part of a collection termed "four corners of the earth", paying homage to the richness and cultural diversity from every part of the world. "Nawab" means ruler, an expression from central India. The fragrance reminds me of Royal Oud by Creed, similar concept but very different and Nawab has more character to it. Ambergris, Labdanum, Rose, Pimento, Cardamom, aldehydes, and Oudh are the main players. The Oud is light, airy and present. Superb blending that I can rely on all day all year. Regal, complex, extravagance are the words that comes to mind. Sample if you get a chance. If you love Creed Royal Oud as I do, this is absolutely blind buy worthy.

Geza Schoen gerçekten bir üstad. Eşsiz ve mükemmel bir işe imza atmış. Normalde biberli kokuları pek sevmem ama bu parfümde biber mükemmel bir uyum içinde diğer bileşenlerle. Oud klasik batı formunda, köşeleri yumuşatılmış şekilde belli belirsiz kullanılmış. Her ne kadar notalarda gül yazsa da ben pek alamadım. Ambergrisden gelen hoş bir tatlılıkla citrusun ekşi/ferah kokusu dengelenmiş. Oud marajuca veya ombre nomad gibi bir oud kokusu değil kesinlikle. Ormonde Jayne DNAsinda ilerleyen güvenli, karizmatik, genel beğenisi yüksek ve özgün bir çalışma. Ben koklamaktan kendimi alamıyorum. Koku oturdukça alttan gül merhaba demeye başladı sanki. Yine bir maden bulmuş gibi sevindirdi beni bu parfüm. Çünkü çok fazla parfüm deneyip de birbirine benzer İşler görünce, hayal kırıklığı oluyor. Arada böyle başyapıtlara gelince keyfim yerine geliyor.

An uncommonly exceptional and somewhat mysterious Oriental beauty. Unlike its name sugggests, this is not a oud centered perfume. The composition is mostly an 'attar' style perfume with prominent florals and spicy elements. The perfume starts with a whiff of green notes, bergamot, orange, cardamom and aldehyde. As it begins to settle a prominent rose emerges with hints of magnolia, orchid, pimento, bay leaf, and cinnamon. Finally it settles into a powdery base of ambergris, musk, vetiver, labdanum, and slight Hindi oud. The perfume has a beautiful green sheen unlike most other oud based fragrances in the market, harkening to a sparking emerald in a Nawab's crown. Unisex, moderate to strong sillage and excellent longevity. The Intensivo version is clearly recommended for fans of the perfume. Hauntingly unique. Enjoy!

İlk 20 saniye muhteşem. Ardından biraz hayal kırıklığı yaratan "yeşil" baskını, ki bana biraz salatalık gibi geldi ve 5 dakika geçtikten sonra parfüm karşımızda . Oud fark edilmiyor. Labdanum ve gül karışımı baskın olmaya başlıyor. Ancak her ikiside bağırmiyor. Ağırbaşlı , olgun ve kalite hissi veren bir koku haline 15 dakika sonra geliyor. Sayfanın kullanicilari parfümün koku dağılımının çok kevvetli olduğunu söylemişler ama sanırım heyecandan. Tene yakın ve bağırmayan bir koku. Kalıcılığı ortalama. Peki 1000 tl üzerindeki fiyatını hak ediyor mu? Bence gereksiz şekilde pahalı. Bu rakama daha iyi birşey sunmaları lazımdı . Özellikle bu, serinin diğer 3 parfumunden daha pahali. Ancak yarı fiyatına satılsa "belki" diyebileceğim bir koku.

This is my in my top 5 (Le Labo Patchouli 24, Ormonde Man, FM Geranium, TF Oud Wood). This is such a beautiful fragrance. I sampled it at a parfumerie and thought the opening was quite nice, even though I'm not a big fan of orange in fragrances. I sprayed the scent on a strip and have left it in my office for the past couple days. I'm amazed at the sillage and longevity. It's been 4 days since spraying the strip and the smoky woodsy dry down is complex. I get a bit of musk, bergamot, ambergris, and oud. Sillage: 10/10- you can be smelled across the room Longevity: 10/10- This be the best performing fragrance I've smelled Smell: 10/10- Completely unique, as it should for its crazy price. If you can afford it, you won't be disappointed.

Nawab of Oudh has a perfect opening. Among dozens of the oud-rose scents I have ever smelled or owned, there is undoubtedly novelty in it. The oud note is airy yet penetrating, akin to the treatment of oud in Oud Ispahan by Dior despite that their smells are different from each other. That kind of oud blends with Jayne's hallmark green note produce this novel opening. In the drydown, it evolves into something familiar, Egoiste meets rosey oud "cliche". Just imagine mixing Egoiste with Miracle of the Rose by Prada (a granular version of Rose d'Arabie by Armani or Gold Rose Oudh by Tiziana Terenzi). Compared to the opening, this drydown could be better. Rating: 8.5

Gorgeous...in the drydown. That's where the magic happens. The opening is ok with the rose being the star of the show. I think the floral overload gives it a bit of an old lady (but modern enough) smell, but be patient, because as the florals fade this becomes a beauty. That base lineup with a touch of bay and pimento (one of Geza's famous combos) gives this a spicy oriental eastern wang that is intoxicating. Sillage is moderate, but longevity is very good 12+. Also, lots of comments on the Oud. This is not an oud scent although it is listed. Oudh is a province in...well just read the story up there. ☝️

The Ormonde Jayne Nawab of Oudh Intensivo is a truly beautiful blend with a remarkably enjoyable profile. I've noticed a distinct tobacco note in it that isn't mentioned in the official notes, and I wonder if others have detected it too. While the fragrance is officially described as an aromatic green scent with notes like rose, cardamom, pimento, orange oil, oud, bergamot, ambergris, and cinnamon, that subtle tobacco nuance adds another layer of complexity that's quite captivating. It's this kind of unexpected depth that makes the "Nawab of Oudh Intensivo" a truly intriguing and well-crafted perfume.