Ormonde Man

Possibly my new signature fragrance and I consider it a MASTERPIECE! Let's face it, today's market is abundant with so much product that it is very hard to find something that appeals from ALL angles, meaning: scent itself, longevity, wearability, strength or sillage, development and last but not least price. This creation has me hooked on ALL these aspects. (£140 for 120ml is a bargain for a quality niche Eau de Parfum concentration). I am a chypre lover to begin with and it really is a misunderstood category. Of course I am a sucker for heavy and pungent orientals, especially when it's cold and it's winter, but this one, a classic 'resinous' chypre is just so perfect for this transitionary time of year: autumn (but I actually think this can be used almost all year round, perhaps not in sweltering summer heat). Now, I did visit the Ormonde Jayne boutique in London (Royal Arcade) a few days ago and this attractive and charming lady served me, asking me all the right questions a consummate professional like her would. It turned out it was Linda Pilkington, the founder of O.J. herself. This really impressed me immensely and gave me even more intrigue to sample her scents. She recommended this creation for me and I immediately took a liking to it, given I love chypres and unusual ingredients: The hemlock (she used it first) is a poisonous plant and full of history and mystique. Legend has it that Socrates poisoned himself with a drink made from this plant: indeed it is intoxicating for once sniffed, I can no longer put it down. Ms Pilkerton also claims to be a pioneer in using oud here in the UK for the first time (before everyone else did) and in the case of this creation the multitude of ingredients are incredibly well orchestrated and blend together to a real Chypre symphony of resinous, creamy, spicy, rich and indulgent, warm and musky olfactory bliss. Initially the juniper hits you with the bergamot but quickly makes way to this hard to describe abstract oily, coniferous creamy, piney green, somewhat aromatic floral blitz, that isn't really floral but more herbaceous, known as "chypre", the collective effect of various woods, resins, herbs and plant extracts. What I love about this perfume is that is somewhat understated and does not start with a big bang, more like a noticeable introduction but it is the constantly increasing glimmer and glow from below and underneath that is so compelling. You just cannot help but starting to sniff yourself and this extremely well blended concoction just keeps on going and going. It lasts particularly long and well on fabric! It is incredibly sophisticated but also smells very natural, relaxed and elegant; just truly unique. It is not a massive projector, more like an elegant 'hummer' rather than a 'screamer', but it is always and confidently there. This restrain makes it so utterly compelling and will make you wanting more. I also think it is extremely sensuous and sexy in an otherworldly kind of way, not like a brash sexy like "Kouros" or "1 Million" and the likes. Thank you Linda!! I love you and your creations. A CHYPRE MASTERPIECE! 10/10

I think this is one of my favourite perfumes. A syrupy smooth, always unfolding fragrance with depth and zing. It has noticeable top notes of cardamon and hemlock with an undercurrent of pink pepper (and maybe cinnamon?), oud vetiver (and I think musk). But there's this citrus mixed with cedar. I find it one of the most fascinating combinations of notes because it's so unified but if you take just a few seconds you can pick apart the major components, like a game. The way my nose can untangle the notes only to have them rectangle again makes this fragrance a continuously fascinating, even entrancing, sensory experience. It also has a resin-like quality (I would even venture so far as to say it's a bit like frankincense) which melds with the hemlock in a way that I find very sensual; in my opinion this means the fragrance can be a bit assertive, though not excessive. On my skin, I find that a creamy sweetness comes through more, and last quite a bit. I find that the core of the scent is the mix of hemlock, cardamom and cedar; it's what last through the whole life of the fragrance on my skin and what has the most prominence until the last fourth of the lifespan of the fragrance on skin. I really love the hemlock note! The fragrance also sticks to my collars or scarves, especially that creamy sweetness, though the woody notes also stick around, as opposed to the spicy or citrusy notes, which only last on the skin. I think the fragrance is best suited to spring or autumn, though it can be worn in winter. I also find it a fairly versatile fragrance for time of day because of the resin-like quality that brings it into night; if anything I would see it as bridging afternoon and evening. I personally avoid wearing it at work, as I find the sensual aspect of it somewhat inappropriate for a work environment. Besides, I think this fragrance has a sort of sprezzatura best suited to (joyous) social functions. Wearing Ormonde Man makes me feel sexy and mysterious. There's something of the forrest about it, almost boreal, that gives it a robust personality and distinctiveness. And the spicy notes give a kind of power I associate with cigars and/or whisky after hours. I can't quite decide wether or not the fragrance has a quirky personality - if it were a person it'd be opinionated and strong willed, but somehow lightheartedly charming and open.

My experience with Ormonde Man was among the finest discoveries I have seen in years. It has everything I want, from high-end perfumery and more. This exceptional fragrance carves its path in the olfactory world, offering a captivating blend of classic and unexpected notes. Since it can be purchased for a little more than $100.00 for a big 120ml bottle, this one gets my highest recommendations for everyone who has slept on this brand. TOP NOTES The opening is so good that words cannot adequately describe it, but I’ll try my best. Imagine a brisk mountain breeze gently touching your face in the early morning as you walk through a pine forest. The spicy notes of cardamom, pink pepper, juniper berries, and coriander are made realistically, bringing out this citric and fresh quality. The additional sweetness with a juicy lift comes from bergamot to round up the composition. Together, they provide a stimulating and sophisticated opening. HEART NOTES The delightful blend continues into the middle notes as well. The citrusy and spicy nuances remain, and the overall greenness amplifies its power, but never into the old-school territory. Black hemlock, also known as mountain hemlock (Tsuga mertensiana), isn’t natural here since the real deal is highly poisonous. The use of black hemlock absolute (a concentrated oil extract) in Ormonde Man adds a unique and unexpected layer of complexity to the fragrance. Even though Jayne’s marketing on their website boasts that Man is using natural Laotian Oud here, there is no agarwood in this composition, which is not bad. BASE NOTES The base notes of Man are the anchor that grounds the fragrance and are the elements that work together to create a satisfying and unforgettable finish. Hemlock is still present here but infused with an overdose of cedarwood, vetiver, and sandalwood, similar to those found in Escentric Molecules perfumes. Contemporary, sexy, and warm, these base notes meld with my skin and become part of my core. They linger for a long time, like whispered promises, inviting me to explore their depths repeatedly. OVERALL Ormonde is one of the most underrated masterpieces, signature-worthy fragrances everyone should discover. Read the full review at scentgrail.com

Adorably sophisticated. Yet subtle. The header description is in fact perfect. Creamy citrus - spiced with sharp peppery top note on a sweet creamy woody base. Whilst some what similar to traditional Chypre, Aromatic Citrus I do not recall any having such a unique subtle play on it like this. A modern take on a traditional Chypre. Not like being smashed in the face with a wet halibut but - wow - a constant delicate power house. More for the crowd that want a quality smell and whom are confident and don’t need to walk in the room saying “look at me”. Rather this will draw people, constantly sniffing, making them seek a subtle waft that after a few minutes switches their senses into full gear realising that somewhere in the back ground there really is a gorgeous scent in the room to be found. Constant linear smell from go... amazingly awesome longevity. Silage as described is there - I get wafts from my arm whilst reading this, again unlike so many scents I love this is strong but polite in its presence... Bergamot needs to be voted up... I’m shocked as to how much I love this scent yet it is very unlike my usual preference... it just feels sexy wearing it... I am imagine being Daniel Craig as James Bond, having a proper shave & shower, splashing this on, donning a nice red velvet dinner jacket and popping into a London Gentleman’s club to enjoy a Whisky and playing a game of bridge with M, hobknobbing with royalty, nibbling on cucumber sandwiches and then ditching them with one of the young princesses and heading out to a trendy club after donning a tux dancing the night away all the while wearing this... Negative reviews here are reading between the lines, pleasure seekers looking for an Aventus Moment or blow me away experience like my car audio system on 11 doof doofing away... No for me... this is the first review where I’m happy to romanticise what I write because it really does feel that way... Did I also tell you about Ormonde Jayne Montabaco? Yep... it’s the tobacco experience version of this.... ;)

This is for the EDP; yet to try the Parfum. Totally agree this could be an all season signature wear, if that's what you're after. However, I tend to wear this in the cooler weather (seems a bit 'darker' in warm weather, less crisp), hence these comments during our (note, a Sydney) Winter. I bought the 8mL travel spray as an introduction. Bowled over with the herbal, 'green woody', and spicy aromatic opening but, initially, I wasn't enamoured with the soapiness and I discounted it as a 'nice but not wow' piece. But the trick was how it grew on me with each subsequent wear. I've assembled a finite 'wardrobe' (as opposed to an infinite 'collection') of frags, that over time give me the variety I crave but become a 'seamless' part of me, if you like. A number of signature frags, rather than one. So it's in that context that this piece really stands out - it's an enjoyable, high quality frag that's somewhat unique, and it has tremendous utility. That soapiness isn't nearly as prominent to me now, although it's still in the background. I love it. The scent has this gorgeous aromatic woodiness about it, moving from spicy to more light musky in dry down, and it carries through cooler air really well. Easily a 7 hour cloud, without trying too hard or being remotely obnoxious (quite the opposite). Great for all occasions - from an early morning walk, or a pick-me-up that is professional and enjoyed by others at work, to a sensual and masculine evening piece, this can do it all. Fresh and clean, but interesting. It fits into my lineup by complimenting the heavier Winter pieces I have, and adds a laid back but elegant all-rounder to the team. The trick ultimately was when I tried to think of other scents that could play that role, in this way. It clicked. I can see why this frag has been around for so long, and hats off to the house for allowing us latecomers to enjoy it. Still modern in feel with only a slight throwback to yesteryear in terms of that soapiness. Great stuff.