Bergamask

How do you define being synthetic? Does it mean the fragrance is above 50% concentration made of synthetic materials? Newsflash, most are. Are you competent enough to call it synthetic then? Does it mean it 'smells synthetic'? But first of all, what does that mean? You can use naturals to make a leather, or a tire rubber or even gasoline accord - does it make it synthetic? Tonka bean absolute is over 80% (maybe even 90, not sure now) coumarin - if you add straight up coumarin to the alcohol and it smells of tonka beans - is that synthetic or not? How do you distinguish what's simplistic or not if you don't know how much effort and different substances are in a perfume? Bergamask is not simplistic, it's very complex - it's not the perfumer's fault that you can't tell how much effort and constituents is in this bottle and the fact that he makes it sound like it is is a simple marketing strategy, not exactly chemical and/or olfactive truth. While Australian sandalwood has some milky, laconic, creamy aspects here the javanol and other stuff mixed come out somehow oily - this does smell not creamy, but oily in a way. There's a lot of white musks but luckily this doesn't smell like laundry. It's full of yellow citrus which, combined with both floral, and citrus creamy orange blossom makes a great composition. Somehow, while it's not really sweet, this perfume has some honeyed aspects, too. There's also a lot of a classic lavender here and the classic part is very important in my opinion because... 1.1k fragrances I tested and I still consider Gualtieri a marketing, and creative genius. He made lots of you believe that this is unwearable and animalic while in reality this is an old school Italian, masculine perfume - it's just of nuclear power. It has some a lot of chypre and fougere aspects to it, lots of citrus and sandalwood, packed with lavender, florals, some herbal notes... There's also tonka here because there's coumarin in the INCI. Marketing aside, this is a 20th century, retro masculine citrus chypre based on tons of musk and sandalwood and therefore (while in my opinion still being unisex) traditionally this leans masculine. There's no animals here (in the shit/pee kind of way, only creamy clean musk). Imagine something a fresh groomed Italian grandpa would wear while he was in his 30s - now amp the performance up to the max because two sprays? Fills every room or hall, leaves a trail for 15mins after you pass and won't come of your neck after a shower or your t-shirt for a week including multiple washing. Believe me, I've done this - I've washed it, put it in the drawer, not all my T-shirts smell of Bergamask for a week.

Honestly, this is good juice, 10/10 for compliments alone, I was followed today and she smiled as she went past me but I can't blame her, it is really beautiful. I also went into the local curry shop for takeaways and the owner came in a few minutes after me and he said he knew I was there again, he smelled the magic down the road he said. It projects well but it is not loud or egotistical or sharp. Sillage is just perfect 10/10 Longevity is perfect from shower to shower 10/10 Smell is personally magnificent for such a simple composition, 9/10. Price is great for real art. 10/10 Innovative / creative packaging 9/10 - - But here's the most interesting part that just makes The Nose so great... When I bought the orto, I had decided on Brutus and Stercus but I took the Bergamask instead. When I got home I unboxed the bottle and I sprayed my arm, it was beautiful... then I noticed a nasty smell and it was my fingers, really nasty like an old dirty dish-cloth smell, so I washed my hands in the kitchen with dishwashing soap. A few minutes later I noticed my fingers were stinking again, I wondered if I had not washed them properly, so I washed them again. I sat down again puzzled about what was making my fingers smell and I picked up the bottle... and then I realised that there was a small smudge of clear oil on the underside of the bottle, I had my friend smell my fingers and he was disgusted! Yet I still couldn't explain the existence of the foul smell. A week later I bought the Boccanera and the same thing happened again. In each case I had to wipe the bottles carefully. At first I thought perhaps the juice leaked but the juice is beautiful. I thought it may be a mistake in production but no, the drop of foul oil was carefully placed in the 'dimple' at the bottom of the bottle such that it never even touched the cardboard box. I did read later that the juice was originally exhibited/displayed on a plinth of dry manure. I believe this foul smell is a 'gift' from the artist, I am grateful as we are all thoroughly entertained by this and plus the juice is heavenly. Did anyone else notice the foul fingers after handling a new bottle? Overall - 10/10 Bravo!!!

Molecule 04 is pure Javanol, with around 2% of Javanol in the bottle. The rest is alcohol and solvents. It's rated as "eternal" and "room-filling" by people. Javanol is one of the strongest aromachemicals that exists in perfumery, and undoubtably the strongest one that smells pleasant on its own. It's a totally synthetic molecule that doesn't exist in nature. Custom-made to replace endangered sandalwood in perfumery. According to Scent & Chemistry on Facebook, this fragrance's formula is 36% Javanol. Because this is an Extrait concentration, the amount of Javanol in the final liquid is insane and mind-boggling. Around 12%. Six times more than in "eternal" Molecule 04. It's been expertly complimented and covered by other strong superambers, so that the final blend doesn't smell like pure Javanol. Geza Schön said that he had to greatly lower the amount of Javanol in Molecule 04 "so your house wouldn't explode". Orto Parisi said screw it and made this bomb. And no, this doesn't smell like bergamot throughout. You only get an opening hit of citrus, before the scent quickly settles into an eternal musky sandalwood base. The opening truly does smell like citrus essential oil. Which is remarkable for something that lasts at least 24 hours on skin. I don't pick up any mosquito repellant in this no matter how hard I try. Or anything unpleasant. I'm actually really enjoying this, because I'm not getting a headache and the scent is very balanced. Super synthetic strong fragrances always seem to be safe for my migraines. But I'd beware wearing this to work, as some people can find this the opposite of safe and pleasant. The room-filling projection this has will subject everyone to your scent.

This perfume opens with a sharp, almost piercing bergamot note backed up by lemon. As it settles, you start to get the floral aspects. All the flowers are blended well, but lavender stands out slightly more than the rest in the middle notes. Here’s where the problem starts for the mass appealing crowd : THE MUSK. Orto Parisi musks lean heavily animalic. Honestly, I dislike the label “ultra niche”. It’s a niche house, yes, but one that focuses on artistic expression rather than mass appeal. Alessandro Gualtieri, the creator behind both Nasomatto and Orto Parisi, treats his perfumes as art, not as people pleasing tools. So if you’re someone who lives off mass appealing fragrances and then complains this isn’t for you, you’re just contradicting yourself. Art is subjective, sure, but expecting artistic scents to be liked by everyone defeats the entire purpose. If you want something easy and universally liked, stick to safer designer options instead of forcing yourself into something your mind and nose clearly isn’t ready for. To me this Perfume is an artistic version of classic notes. That said, I do understand why people dislike Javanol not everyone can handle it, but that’s a separate and valid issue. (Javanol smells like sandalwood here) So in short : The opening hits you with a blast of bergamot, supported by lemon, with a touch of lavender and some floral nuances in the background (they are well blended so it's hard to detect them individually at least for me). As it starts to settle, a strong musky note emerges, accompanied by Javanol, which gives off a sandalwood like scent.

Batch 01245. Never have I been so disappointed by performance of a perfume. At this point, I think the house and their PR team is doing everything to stop recalls from dealers and end buyers. I have never seen such polarizing behavior in the comments section from users. This batch keeps getting compliments from people saying “wait 2 months”. NONSENSE, this does not help it, if the performance is shit, it will stay shit. Maybe it would mix better, but this is ultimately a problem of watered down shit being sold under old social perception. I hope the house gets the poor PR like we’re getting poor products. I simply can not believe that a perfume used to project and last so long can become completely untraceable and this to be an issue of immature product. Well if the product needs to sit, why would you even push that to market? That’s the fault of the producer. If I wanted to buy wine, I would go and buy wine, but I bought perfume which I expect to perform and not to drink it too. This house is getting a forever long disrespect from me, everybody I see getting close to this brand in a store will get a long story on how horrible the customer service is along with the performance, quality and longevity of their perfumes. Oh and I will add that they are publishing fake reviews all over the internet to make people second guess their own senses “Javanol... this is why you can’t smell it”. Once again, NONSENSE.