Zouzelle & Saturn’s Return

I was one of the lucky winners of the OSM (Olfactory Sense Memory) discovery set. Since this is the first time that I've won something in a Fragrantica giveaway, in order to express my gratitude, I will do my best to post detailed reviews of these four fragrances, one at a time - so that other Fragranticans can also get familiar with this new niche brand. So, today we begin with 28 - Zouzelle & Saturn’s Return. As a fan of Western astrology, I was intrigued by this name, which describes the moment when a young person reaches maturity, around the age of 28-29, i.e. when the planet Saturn returns to its original position in the person's natal chart. Also, this fragrance is supposed to evoke the olfactive memory of Los Angeles - but since I've never been to LA, I can't comment on this. On with the motley. Immediately after spraying this perfume, I was reminded of Lush Karma! Although the lists of notes are quite different, these two scents are surprisingly similar; they belong to the same aromatic category, or to be precise, aromatic-spicy-woody-balsamic-musky. Since I presume that a lot of Fragrantica readers are familiar with Karma, I will now compare it to 28, in order to highlight similarities and, more importantly, differences. So, the main difference is that 28 is not so headache-inducingly strong as Karma, which also means that it is more wearable. As you know, Karma is a very challenging scent, totally hippie-trippy; I'm happy to report that 28 is easier to pull off, although it is still a niche fragrance and definitely not an instant crowd-pleaser. Both scents are nominally unisex, but to my nose 28 is slightly more masculine. The openings of both scents are very similar, with the spicy-woody-balsamic blast; however, Karma also contains lots of sharp orange peel and patchouli. This is not the case with 28, where jasmine gradually makes its way through all these woods and spices, and ultimately imposes itself as the dominant note. I'd say that this is a rather masculine interpretation of jasmine: its sweet, girly and even indolic components are suppressed, in favour of the spicy and balsamic overtones. 28 is indeed a perfume for people who have reached a certain level of maturity; it has absolutely nothing in common with drugstore cheapies, freshies and sugarbombs loved by young kids. This is aimed at creative, curious, adventurous men and women, who have discovered their true selves and aren't afraid to express their personalities. On my skin, the longevity of this scent is moderate (around the 6-hour mark). It projects heavily during the first couple of hours, and then withdraws; nevertheless, its presence is vividly felt throughout its skin life. I should also add that the packaging and the overall presentation of these scents are truly gorgeous - vivid yet tasteful. Overall, as an old Karma lover, I give full marks to this unusual spicy jasmine. However, if you're not a fan of Karma and the likes, beware!

Beautiful. Today I’m wearing number 28 and there’s nothing I don’t love about it. From OSM perfume, my first time sampling the indie perfume house based out of Los Angeles is not disappointing. Number 28, Zouzelle & Saturn’s Return, is suppose recall a coming of age scent memory, but the perfume reminds me of a Moroccan market with musk and spices. Myrrh makes an appearance in the opening and stays for the second and third acts. I also pick up a light floral. 28 never becomes heavy and cloying, so the market I’m walking through is outdoors. I could wear this through summer, so it’s versatile. I also really love that this company makes a smaller 15ml size. With a large collection, it’s easier for me to justify a purchase. Lastly, I must comment on the gorgeous packaging. As a designer who also teaches packaging design, I was attracted to the custom retro typography and the graffiti floral collage. The tactile quality of the paper stock adds to the luxe feeling when holding it. I give the brand points for not looking like everyone else. I realize at the end of the day it’s about the quality of the juice, but I also love the entire experience of purchasing and wearing perfume, and OSM checks off all the boxes. (My discovery sample was won here on fragrantica.)

Absolutely love this. The myrrh isn’t too incense-y; the musk and cashmere notes soften it beautifully. Though not listed, I pick up a lovely orange in the open and in the mid, in combination with the jasmine. I used to love incense as a teen and in my early 20s. Now, however, I find it really turns me off. Having said that, I wouldn’t classify No. 28 as an incense-type, even though the myrrh is present throughout. The resins they use are so rich, high-quality and tempered by the other notes around them. Coriander, pepper, and Amber brighten, while musks and cashmere soften and smooth. There is Cedar, but it is muted and close, the way I feel Cedar should sit on the skin of a woman. Also not listed, in the drydown, with the cedar and myrrh, along with the amber, every so often I get a very tiny touch of vanilla, though that could be in the variety of the cedar. They’ve beautifully communicated the intention to convey story. The result, to me, just works. I love it. Unisex, not too masculine, feminine enough, sensual. Terrific.

I received this in a sample set tonight and this was an instant love. This was my favorite of the set. I like jasmine but I have never found a jasmine sent that I could wear before, because I always thought they were extremely feminine or gave me a headache. The jasmine here is featured for sure, but all of the other notes compliment it so well that it is not as sharp. I would say a man could definitely wear this. This house is about scent memories. I'm not sure if this provokes a certain memory but my overall impressions would be "adventure" OR some sort of extremely yummy spice cabinet. Really excellent. In general I would say the notes listed are accurate but the overall impression is maybe a little warmer than what I had pictured in my head.

28 - Zouzelle & Saturn's return is quite a unique perfume! It has a touch of vintage, and also a touch of a hippie perfume. I've never smelled Lush Karma, but I can see that this perfume smells like something that would be named that. I could have sworn there was patchouli in here. It's not as strong as a crazy hippie patchouli, though, so don't let that turn you off. It's not a nuclear fragrance (after the first few minutes.) I smell the coriander straight off, but mostly as just a spice, it's not too foody or strange as straight up coriander out of the jar might be. This fragrance for me is really a duet of sweet jasmine and beautiful myrrh. It becomes sweeter and more resinous as it dries. I think the resinous jasmine is what gives me vintage vibes. Jasmine here is fresh, sweet, and even a bit powdery. I really do like this perfume, I think it's just so different. I'm having trouble describing it because I honestly don't know what to compare it to. Try it :) Testing from the discovery kit.