Azemour Les Orangers

One of the things I love and admire about Marc-Antoine Corticchiato is that when he says he’s going to give you something, you’re going to get exactly what he says. The brand’s descriptions of the perfumes are also refreshingly simple, straightforward, and well written. With Azemour Les Orangers, the name says it all. A word-play on the ancient Moroccan city of Azemmour, where Corticchiato grew up, with the French amour (love), we see him express his love of the orange groves his parents tended (they are the Les Orangers). AlO grabs you instantly with a perfectly photorealistic note of oranges, but there is so much more besides. These oranges are adorned and showered with the beautiful gifts of lemon, grapefruit, seed spices and peppercorns, and a smooth green galbanum like the leaves and fresh green wood from the branches of the orange trees. It is so wonderfully seamless and not the least bit scratchy, like so many other citrus perfumes in the overburdened market; this opening stands out from the crowd. Superb. Then comes the floral heart, which is just as legible as the opening, and just as gorgeous. Neroli and orange blossom create a floral accord, obviously, but present a fruit-sugar like sweetness that is mouthwatering. It carries the opening statement made by the top notes very well into its next and most logical part of the proof. I’m using mathematical terminology here for a reason: AlO is calculated, deft, accurate as well as precise. Going back to a previous statement, you never have to guess what Corticchiato is going to do, which means a lack of surprise is a factor missing from his compositions, but I honestly don’t care because it’s the way he does it that compels me every time. From a more abstract perspective, this feels like an orange tree in reverse. Start with the fruit, then go to the flowers that are pollinated to make the fruit, and then, one presumes, back to the bare tree itself. Is that what happens? Let’s see. But, with the heart notes in particular, we smell what the AlO name speaks of: love of a home and a big part of that home, the orange groves. It’s in the heart of this perfume, with its delicate but vivid florals, you feel the love. It’s a caress. It’s a peck on the cheek. It’s a hand held. I’m smiling the way I’m sure Corticchiato does when thinking of those orange groves of home. Back to a previous postulation: does AlO go in reverse and the base/skin scent smell like the woods and leaves of orange trees? Well, Corticchiato actually surprises me this time because the final skin scent of AlO does not smell that way. Instead it’s a beautifully gentle evocation of hay and mosses, not woods. Curious, but nonetheless very pleasant. This might be the only misstep with AlO. Let me explain. This would have been an excellent opportunity to relay a citrusy, green and young wood, slightly floral accord that would fit perfectly with the perfume’s mandate as seemingly set by the top and heart. Maybe just trick us with the use of a vetiver material, as an example. But he takes a weird left turn here. One can only presume that was intentional. What started as bracing and swoon-worthy turned to a gentle and distant longing by the fleeting and wispy hay notes. Maybe that’s the point. When reflecting on those much-loved orange groves, the ending emotion is always whimsical and perhaps a bit sad. It’s not the direction I had wished AlO to take, but it’s a very understandable and precise direction in keeping with Corticchiato’s style, and it’s beautiful all the same. Again, in the crowded market of citrus perfumes, Azemour Les Orangers stands out from the rest.

شعبده AZEMOUR LES ORANGERS یکی دیگه از عطرهای خنک خانه ی عطر دـامپایر هست که طبق معمول کیفیت ساخت و بالانس عالی آکوردهای اون؛جای هیچ بحثی نداره.چیزی که بنده رو از بوییدن این کار به وجد آورد؛نگاه دقیق و نکته سنج جناب کورتیشیاتو هست که از این بابت باید تبریک گفت به ایشون و به احترامشون کلاه از سر برداشت! نگاهی به تاپ نوتس عطر؛شروعی شلوغ؛گنگ و پرهیاهو رو به ذهن متبادر میکنه اما این تصوری کاملا اشتباهه و ظرافت و کیفیت در چینش نتها؛از همون شروع بکار عطر شما رو هیجان زده میکنه و شما رایحه ی آشنای پرتغال و ترشی و خنکای لیمو رو حس میکنید.شروعی شفاف و دوست داشتنی که خیلی زود تندی ادویه جات و خصوصا زیره به اونها اضافه میشه! نکته ی بسیار زیبای این اوپنینگ برای من رایحه ی برگ مو هست! برگهای تازه ی مو در فصل بهار رو اگر له کنید و بو بکشید و اگر خام بخورید؛رایحه و طعمی ترش مایل به تلخی دارن با تمی سبز و گیاهی و جناب کورتیشیاتو این رایحه رو استادانه دراوردن در این عطر که مدت کمی بعد از شروع کار؛کاملا حسش میکنم که با ترشی خودش جبهه ی سیتروسی و با سبزی و تلخی خودش جبهه ی اسپایسی رو تقویت میکنه که بسیار زیباست.این تلخی و تندی به مرور قدرت می گیره و با حضور گشنیز که اینجا حالتی خاکی و موهوم و گرفته داره فضا رو غبارآلود میکنن و این فضا با ورود فلفل که اون هم حس و حالی خاکی و نسبتا تند داره؛بستر رو برای حضور قدرتمند جیر آماده میکنن تا فضا رو خاک گرفته و سنگین کنن اما تصور نکنید که همه چیز از دست رفته و طوفان شن اینجا رو درنوردیده!نه! نتهای سیتروسی بیکار ننشستن و با اتصال به شکوفه مرکبات؛فضا رو تلطیف و سرزنده نگه داشتن و اگرچه در حاشیه هستن اما در این طوفان ادویه ای و جیر؛طراوت و نشاط فضا رو حفظ کردن!در این بین نتهای فلورال هم از دور اعلام حضور میکنن اما خیلی دیده نمیشن تا اینکه... تا اینکه بعد از حدود 30دقیقه؛از دل این فضای خاکی-ادویه ای و تا حدودی سیتروسی؛رایحه ی دلنشین و روح نوازی از رز و شمعدانی که حسی شاداب و نسبتا شیرین رو بوجود میارن؛خود نمایی میکنن و چقد زیباست من نمیتونم چیزی بگم جز اینکه فقط باید بو کشید و لذت برد؛لذت برد و بو کشید... این تغییر فضا فوق العادست و فوق العاده تر اینکه تو این لحظه ها هر ازگاهی حس سبز و شیطون برگ مو؛بینیمو قلقلک میده واین بیشتر سرمست و سرحالم میکنه! اما این پایان کار نیست و شعبده بازی مارک آنتونی ادامه داره ... برگ مو از زیر این فضای خاکی و گلی؛دستای سبز و ترش و تلخش که حالا جنبه ی شورمانند گرفتن به خودشون رو به سمت علوفه های خشک و خزه دراز میکنه و کم کم اونها هم دستان این فامیل دور خودشون رو میگیرن و فضایی گیاهی و کمی نمکی؛البته نمکی که مرطوب و خاک آلوده؛ایجاد میکنن.هنوز هم تندی ادویه ها و لطافت گلها رو میشه حس کرد اما قدرت سابق رو ندارن و فضای عطر در این لحظه گیاهی و کمی شور هست برای من که بخاطر آمیزش خزه؛علوفه و برگ مو هست! تا مدتها این رایحه همراه شما خواهد بود و کلی انرژی و سرزندگی به شما هدیه میکنه! جا داره دو نکته رو اینجا عرض کنم: اول اینکه آزمور شهریه در کشور مراکش که در دشتی خشک اما در جوار اقیانوس اطلس واقع شده و جناب کورکشیاتو بخوبی فضای متناقض خشک و دریایی این شهر رو در این عطر به نمایش گذاشتن. دومین نکته بکارگیری استادانه و کاملا طبیعی آکورد برگ درخت انگور در این عطر هست که ایشون استادانه بسیاری از وجوه این برگ جالب و دوست داشتنی رو به تصویر کشیدن که برای من بسیار بسیار تحسین برانگیز و قابل ستایشه.. این عطر موندگاری خوب و پخش بوی قابل قبولی داره و کاری متفاوته.هم آقایون هم خانمها میتونن بپوشنش اما بیشتر مناسب سنین نزدیک 30 و بالاتره... کامنت: م.ع (سایت لوکس بایر (با امکان تست سمپل

Oh Azemour, mon amour, mon grand amour! So much to love. Maybe the classiest, greenest, most aromatic, most refreshing orange scent of them all. It's all very green indeed - the ratio of the aromatics and leaves to the citrus is surprisingly high. And even the more citrussy notes feel somehow greener than they are orange (or lemon-yellow): genuinely sparkling-bitter and verging on peppery-spicy too, just exactly like the foliage of a real orange orchard. Close your eyes, breathe in, and you're in a walled grove in the Mediterranean, surrounded by organically-grown citrus plants, soaking in beautiful sunshine and truly fresh air. SO BEAUTIFUL, SO HANDSOME - for this is also truly unisex, although the almost total lack of sweetness might rule it out for those who need a bit of feminine gentle treatment in the mix. For me, it's just perfect as it is; a nichier, more adventurous, more distinguished iteration of Hermes' classic Concentre d'Orange Vert, only with a great deal more oakmoss and spice, which gives a slightly raspier, more prickly effect overall. Azemour has even more character than the Hermes though; it's the update, the modernised and more individual reboot, with a much more artisanal, crafted feel that's a bit more abrasive and distinctive than Hermes' smooth, conciliatory, all-things-to-all-people act. Parfums d'Empire often find my perfect sweet spot between 'boring' and 'too weird to wear', by making really classy scents which aren't afraid to be different, but are still pleasant enough to enjoy at length, and this is a great example of how to strike that balance. It's so startlingly good that it will stimulate the dullest, most plodding brain on the greyest day. Makes you feel awake and alive and energetic (even if, like me, you're usually a little slothful.) My single, solitary objection is that the burst of orange beauty at first doesn't hang around for longer than 2-3h maximum on my skin, which just ain't long enough for something this gorgeous to last. It never jumps off the skin; projection never gets any wider than arms' length, and sillage is hit-or-miss; you might get some lovely evanescent whiffs on the air, or you might not; it seems mostly a game of heartbreaking chance to me. However, the herbal side sometimes manages to stick to me longer and puff out small whiffs of lovely, nearly-bitter oak moss and cypress for anything up to 4-6h; I think it varies a lot according to ambient heat, skin condition and so on. But whatever the groundwork you lay for it - Azemour will repay the effort and the expense. It's just fantastic.

Marc-Antoine Corticchiato has managed to convince me on several occasions he ́s a wizard at composing perfumes. I don ́t consider it to be an overblown statement, taking into account Mr Corticchiato ́s impressive body of work, notably fragrances like “Cuir Ottoman”, “Ambre Russe”, “Eau de Gloire”, ”Aziyadé”, “Fougere Bengale”, or “Wazamba”, to name just a few. His are complex, well-thought-out perfumes that take their wearer on an olfactory as well as emotional journey. Some journeys resemble a smooth ride while others a dizzying rollercoaster. If I were to make a “best-of” list of Corticchiato ́s fragrances, “Azemour Les Orangers” would undoubtedly feature near the very top of such a list. “Azemour Les Orangers” is an olfactory poem, a poignant tribute to orange groves in the Kingdom of Morocco, where Marc-Antoine Corticchiato was born and grew up. The top of the fragrance is pleasantly citrusy. Instead of being sour, the citrus opening exudes a hint of sweetness, courtesy of an orange-tangerine combination. In the heart, an orange blossom note helps to preserve the delicate sweetness of the scent. Simultaneously, a pinch of salt is added to the composition, thus evoking the aroma of an orange grove by the sea. In the drydown, oak moss emerges and the chypre character of the fragrance becomes unmistakeable. In this reviewer ́s opinion, “Azemour Les Orangers” is the ultimate daydreamers ́ delight. This fragrance makes you want to set out on a journey and experience a crisp spring morning in a Moroccan orange grove for yourself. However, I suspect Mr Corticchiato ́s perfume is a lot better than the real McCoy. Enjoy the ride!

Another mind blowing fragrance from PdE, which is slowly becoming my favorite niche house. Starts with a surprisingly sweet yet boldly tart and green citrus top note like ripping through orange or mandarin peel, which however quickly settles into a surprisingly tender, almost candied sweet orange note. Azemour then does a 180 degree spin, which is where I bet many people will be alienated, considering the name and orange grove theme. It is essentially revealed that this is a spicy oakmoss fougere, a mouthwatering cinnamon cumin spice mix similar to Aziyade (which in turn resembles SL Feminite du Bois) emerges blending in with the candied orange peel. Think of the smell of peering over a pestle and mortar with freshly ground spice powder in it, vivid and intense but 'pulverized' and smooth. Rounding out the base, a massive oakmoss accord and sweet musty green hay, vivid, realistic, like shoving your face into a handful of fresh hay that is still green on the edges. There are definitely floral elements surrounding the whole creation, keeping everything together, but no particular accord comes to mind. The result is somewhere along the lines of a vintage cola, the old school natural formula made out of real ingredients with the sweet citrus and the effervescence of the warm spice, mixing with a large bale of sweet green hay. It is undoubtedly an 'old world' fragrance, green French orange groves meet the spice market of Morocco, unadulterated and pre-1900s. Undoubtedly very old school, bordering vintage, but with a scent this beautiful, who even cares?