Or Black 2014

After several past disappointments (and even a couple of really bad experiences) in blind-buying some "under-the-radar cheapies" that were supposedly "gems" according to some reviewers, I was very skeptical with this one. This is especially true when looking at several other perfumes of this house, with fragrance names inspired by soccer, rugby, and sports in general (rarely compatible with fashion and arts). That said, here I had a real great surprise. It opens with a citrusy cardamom and artemisia accord, followed by a reference rosemary/lavender duo - strong but never harsh -, and closes on a state-of-the-art violet/musk/wood trio (reminding me of a oakmossy/juniper-ish leather - no worries, it smells modern!). The notes would qualify this one as reference fougere fragrance, but the bitter leathery drydown makes me want to classify it more as a green chypre. No surprise it is still a great seller after nearly 40 years of life: a masterpiece by Jean-Louis Sieuzac - the father of Fahrenheit and Opium - could only result in a legend, and has surprisingly been well reformulated by Vincent Ricord in 2014 (despite the new IFRA regs banning oakmoss). While there is a clear consensus online to define this creation as a masterpiece, there also seems to be a clear consensus that this house hasn't issued any other fragrance really worth of interest since this one in 1981 (or, in the best case, are just good but very poor performers according to reviews). So...is it an "under-the-radar underrated cheapie gem"? It is indeed cheap to get now ($30 online, check!), it is definitely a gem (check!), but not at all under the radar (maybe for sephora customers, but not for the online frag community), and not at all underrated (4.3 on Fragrantica is a great mark). (on a side note: I'm sorry for the cheapie hunters, but at the age of internet, no gem stays under the radar. If a cheapie is underrated and stays U-T-R, there's a reason for it: it just smells cheap - cf. Bogart fragrances) I learned to read in between the lines, and I'm not anymore going to be misled by cheapie-hunters' opinions: despite my strong enjoyment for this fragrance, this will be the first and only fragrance of this house that I will buy. (and possibly re-buy at some point, because this one is really great in its category - still, it's a fougere, thus a fragrance family that may not please younger noses). Morabito and Bogart are like those singers who do only compose one hit song (Morabito: Or Black and Bogart: One Man Show Oud edition) that stays in mind to many, but no one can tell their name, and they disappeared in the limbo. For Spring and Fall days, leaning towards the colder side, 30+

I asked Luca Turin on Substack which one of the following four fougères that he raved about in the first Guide he would choose today: Rive Gauche Pour Homme, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu, Yohji Yamomoto Yohji Homme, or Pascal Morabito Or Black. He replied, simply, “But... I don’t have to choose.” I laughed. Fair enough. I added that I’d recently found a bottle of the latter, to which he replied: “Or Black is the driest, darkest perfume I’ve ever smelled, even more so than Guerlain’s Djedi. An absolute marvel.” Of course, Turin refers to the original 1981 release by Jean-Louis Sieuzac (of Opium, Dune, Bel Ami, and Fahrenheit fame). The bottle that I’d found was of the 2014 rerelease, which by reputable accounts is a faithful reorchestration. I’ve personally never sniffed the original, but I am thrilled with this one. It opens on a violet leaf note that is anisic, green, and creamy, suggesting something unctuous and somewhat medicinal. There are resinous rosemary needles and a deliciously biting artemisia that are suffused with lavender, giving it a shaving cream vibe reminiscent of Barbasol. As it dries down, the violet turns muskier and the leather in the heart comes through. It’s a dark fougère with chypre elements. It contains a very subtle petroleum or motor oil effect, recalling Fahrenheit (it’s been noted that the 1981 version prefigured the finished gasoline accord of the 1988 Dior release). The darkish-greenness here doesn’t turn increasingly resinous and smoky — like “triple-distilled Earl Grey”, as Turin puts it in the 2008 Guide. Instead, it stays relatively crisp and cooling, though always bitter, as it radiates with its verdant hue. I enjoy this juice a whole lot, and discover something new each time I wear it. Fantastic.

I tried this a few years ago and didn't get it. It didn't seem anything like the reviews I'd read. Where I'd expected tea or leather or something else dark, I remember an impression of a vaguely androgynous, sweet-rubbery abstract smell. But as the years went by and I tried more and more perfumes, my ideas about what did and didn't smell good (or interesting or memorable) cohered. And every now and then I'd remember this oddball in the faux metal-frame bottle. And I'd wonder what I'd think of it now. A couple of weeks ago I reacquired it in a swap. I was wrong. As I suspected--and hoped--I'd been. A few years ago, I didn't appreciate violets ... I sniffed too relentlessly ... I was preoccupied with ideas of who a given scent "should" be worn by. It was all these things, but also (and, probably, predominantly) the subconscious shifts that shape one's aesthetic appreciation over a lifetime. What do I smell now? Shaving cream. Cut grass. Dried herbs. A leather saddle with bits of sweetgrass and clover. And a gentle, high-desert wind soughing through it all. Equal parts innovation and nostalgia. Damn near as good as it gets.

If you're a fan of Rive Gauche, Fou d'Absinthe, Azzaro Pour Homme, or Drakkar Noir you may very well enjoy Or Black 2014. I was pleasantly surprised by this, a very darkish green herbal fougere with an anisic, licorice like quality accenting its central accord. Or Black is piquant to some extent, its aromatic herbal notes catching the nose with a crisp, cooling spiciness. And it's fairly light. For some reason I was expecting Or Black to feel a bit heavy and stuffed, but it is not. It's more diffusive and bouyant, with a vibrant bite, a sparkling quality to its dark green hue rather than any kind of smokiness or leathery qualities. It can be described as fresh, spicy, herbal and aromatic with a Barbasol, shaving cream aroma. Projection is moderate but nice and solid, and longevity is about 6 to 8 hours. Overall this is a very nice offering from Pascal Morabito and available for a very fair price on eBay from sellers in France (about $50). Recommended as a blind buy if you enjoy the above mentioned scents, otherwise, it's completely worth sampling. Thumbs up.

Pascal Morabito OR Black is a take off two very different fragrances. This page is for the reformulated 2014 version. Both are good but wildly different ace extremely hard to find. I’ll reserve comments for the vintage version for the other page, but the 2014 version was very familiar. I could go through all the notes, when in reality all people want to know is what it smells like. It was on the tip of my nose as I continued to sit with it. Then it hit me...Bally Masculin. Bally Masculin by Bally Switzerland was a beautiful lightly powdery, lavender scent - in the vein of a unique barbershop scent. According to Parfumo it was created in 1984 and was discontinued shortly thereafter. If you’re any sort of vintage collector you’ll know that Bally Masculin a true holy grail fragrance, and fetches $500 or more for 100ml. Pascal Morabito OR Black 2014 smells nearly identical to me (I own both). If you can locate a bottle of either for a fair price, I highly recommend purchasing. You won’t be sorry!!

@Andy The Frenchy "a masterpiece by Vincent Ricord reformulated in 2014 (new IFRA regs banning oakmoss) by Jean-Louis Sieuzac - the father of Fahrenheit and Opium - could only result in a legend." I guess you got the information about Or Black's authorship from Fragrantica, but I'm quite sure it's incorrect. Jean-Louis Sieuzac being the original nose has some sense. Vincent Ricord? Not so much; too young. In addition, Sieuzac worked mainly in the late seventies/eighties, so it's easy to assume that he created (and he deserves the highest credit, if true) Or Black if one's forced to choose. Sieuzac looks like an extraordinary man. Or Black, Fahrenheit, Opivm, Bel Ami? Wow.

I was amazed to find this retailing for a bargain on a UK site, I had no idea they had brought Or Black back and was very excited and worried this would be a new fragrance in the same bottle with the same name rather than a reformulation ala Trussardi Uomo. However this is definitely Or Black. Green, inky, liquorice and rubber like the original however a little less 80's, less dry and herbal and animalic and with the violet note amped up somewhat but I am not disappointed at all, this is a decent reformation altogether and to own 100ml for around 25 quid is incredible given the extortionate rates for a vintage bottle. Very, very happy with this fragrance

This is fantastic. An 80s style power fougere (a la Azzaro pH); a rich, robust leather (a la Moschino pH); and an austere oriental woody (a la Carven Homme) all in one. Considering how deep, rich and multi-faceted this smells, and how good the performance is, it is hard to believe that the release year is 2014. But of course, when you consider that it is a re-release of a great classic that dates back to 1981, it all makes sense. Knowing now how good this 2014 version smells, I can imagine what an absolute beauty the original must be.

Initially the scent is highly concentrated and delightfully minty. The powerful mix of herbs and greens tickle the nose just like freshly cut mint does. It’s a fougère alright but one that’s different enough to stand on its own. It is the big dark green tower among aromatics. Basil tea, oily leather, rosemary needles, Fahrenheit violets, soapy lavender in a towering construct that fits seamlessly within Pascal Morabito’s minimal jewelry designs. Now I need one of his bracelets to match the scent. Certainly the black one. *****

Epic Journey Into the Bottled Yonder, 170 ------------------------------------------------------- Purchased September 2019 The bottle pictured above is what I have. Two words, oh my god and prepare for war. Word is Or Black spawned Fahrenheit since the leathery musky floral portrait is almost a petroleum smell without the refined oil part that dominates Fahrenheit. I'll agree, this stuff would be injected into grenades if they were designed to choke out the enemy with pure scent. Poetry.

من أفضل عطور الفوجير الحديثة و من أجمل الاصدارات العطرية بالعقدين الماضيين لا يضاهيه الا تحفة ايف سان لوران ريف جوش و التي بينهما تشابه كبير جدا، و لكن هذا العطر أكثر ظلاما و جفافا حيث يفتقد للمسة البودرية السويتية الخفيفة بريف جاوش هذا العطر يذكرك دائما برائحة معجون الحلاقة، عطر نظيف و رجولي، يفضل للاستعمال النهاري طوال العام باستثناء أيام الصيف الحارة الاداء جيد جدا يصل ل10 ساعات و الفوحان جيد ايضا خلال الساعات الأولى التقييم 4.6/5

@Cuthbert You're right, that doesn't make sense. I checked and that's the opposite! I guess Fragrantica got confused :D And yes, Sieuzac did not create a lot, but every time he blends, he creates liquid gold. If I had to be mentored by one perfumer, that would be him! He is a master in the manipulation of the violet note, that's why I got misled. I edited my comment, thank you for the note!

An absolutely fantastic Fougère with a clean shaving cream vibe. If you're a fan of Rive Gauche you will definitely like this. I would say it almost makes Rive Gauche redundant considering the latter is discontinued and goes for extortionate prices on ebay.

Well, after months of wearing it in every conditions, it ́s VERY difficult to make a good review about these absolute masterpiece. Why? Because the complexity, the richness, and the permanent changes are going from one territory to another. The genius of Sieuzac is pre announcing the future Fahrenheit in this incredible, incredible fragrance. By far the best composition I ́ve smelled. I don ́t say the most beatiful, but yes, in the composition of the formula, you get in shock. Sieuzac made this, Fahrenheit and BEL AMI. Nothing more to say. Finally, the original one was a little bit stronger, but anyway this is a 10. 11/10

like a watered down "Knize"...

This fragrance would have been my signature scent if not for the atrocious sillage/projection. I don't know if it's my skin or that it contains ingredients I'm anosmic to or the way how this bottle was stored before it was delivered to my home after I purchased it. There's one particular Youtuber who is infamous for saying you should overspray - well I did that with this fragrance (minimum 10 times, sometimes 15+) and the sillage is non-existent. You get hit with the opening and then within a minute or two, it's a skin scent - you get no wafts from movement. But a strange thing happens - in the late drydown, 3 hours later, the sillage picks up a little bit and you start to smell it when you move around but still nowhere near as much as a regularly performing scent would when you spray it 10+ times on yourself. Rant aside - when I can detect it, what does it smell like to me? Opening & Heart - beautiful absinth/vermouth smell, I guess it's the artemisia backed up by cardamom but it's SO GOOD - I don't know if my nose gets a strong herbal vibe but there is a smooth leather feel in the mid that is reminiscent of Bottega Venetta Pour Homme Drydown - here it gets interesting and only if this performed like it should would this be perfection for the price - I get a peppery, musky, soapy lavender vibe - could be the violet that adds the pepper & musk facets here but in combination with the soapy lavender there is definitely a smell or aura similar to shaving cream in a steamy bathroom after a shower -let me reiterate - it's the PEPPER facet with this smooth shaving cream smell that is a gorgeous touch I don't recall smelling in another fragrance as of yet When a fragrance smells so good but performs so poorly, there's a greater sense of disappointment. Unfortunately I have to group this with Ralph Lauren Purple Label & Dunhill Icon Absolute as well-priced, well-executed designer fragrances in my collection that are extremely disappointing due to lack of performance. YT channel - The Scentrovert

Notes list on this webpage is totally misleading, musk? absinthe? seriously? I get little comparison with Rive Gauche PH or its blueprint Quorum since no stylized animalic raw organ-like smell, even farther away from Fou d'Absinthe and Yatagan, given the fact that I used to picking up minor similarities most people does not agree with me... Well, honestly, it reminds me of something else more than the aforementioned if I insist. Or black (2014) has the same aesthetics with Dior Fahrenheit vintage formula, and can be considered as a dually fragrance yet nothing explicitly smell like each other. Compared to the red-ish Fahrenheit, Or Black is much of an Or Emerald literally, with a dark green texture, forest-like vibe a la Polo Green and Italian Cypress by Tom Ford, whilst a common interpretation on some kind of herbal, leathery and cedary-ish (Iso E super) accord, a implicit linkage with Amouage Epic Man via everything but oud, as well as a facet from deliberately artificial (surreal) leathery and mossy notes that also has resemblence with Cartier XIII and Oriza L Legrand Chypre Mosse . I find it is very hard to describe in a few wearings, so TBC...

I tested the new version...it smells a lot like azzaro pour homme with fresh leather peeking slightly ,after 2-3 hours in a cool night..the first hour is a bit strong of fresh leather( not like car seat leather but real flesh leather ) and incensy with azzaro pour homme smell peeking..dont get me wrong i love azzaro pour homme. in fact i stock up them..after using or black..i might need to stock it up too...it provides a different perspective of smell that open up my mind when a different combo is put under your nose though some say there are others who have done it but, to match the smell and it fit nicely like a glove deserves an applause and standing ovation..especially after my wife complement me...so try it..it is a different journey though...

A huge disappointment when compared to real thing. But the real thing is so-out-of-this-world great that that doesn't mean much. After getting used to this I realized that it is in fact excellent. Easy to wear and smell, but not bland. Better than 99.99% of masculines but not up there in Knize or Derby territory. And wonderfully inexpensive. Agreeable enough to make a birthday present: hardly anybody is likely to dislike. The notes here must be incorrect, what a surprise. This is a fougere for sure: coumarin, lavender, oakmoss, or at least the illusion of those. A gentle fougere, sweet and smooth and smiling. I hope it catches on big and guys quit wearing all of the horrible things that they do.

I can not believe that this abruptly disappeared from like everywhere literally overnight. This is a long time favorite fragrance of mine that I foolishly never grabbed a back up bottle of when I still had the chance - now the only bottles I can find for sale online are shameless opportunists charging $250 for what was a $25 fragrance. If you happen to have a spare bottle that out of the goodness of your heart you might be willing to part with for a *reasonable price* for a fellow fragrance lover & enthusiast... please drop me a pm. I would be so grateful. Thank you in advance, friends.,.

@Paranoiddroid You might be onto something. I haven't tried DTB. But Royal Copenhagen?! My pop wore that stuff back when it smelled good..long ago in the early-mid eighties. I totally get the YSL Rive Gauche and feel it's a good 80-90% backbone of this juice. Beyond that, there's a powdery green note that shows up towards the base, which sorta sets it apart giving it it's own identity. 6-10 hours longevity on my skin. Backup bottle worthy at the current quality/price ratio. 10/10

Mine just arrived, and its pretty much identical to my pre-2014 sample from the Perfumed Court. (obviously the top notes of those samples suffer over time, though). News of Or Black's death have been greatly exaggerated! I'm getting great projection from a spray on my hand thus far. So far its amazing, very urban and silky, a dark and masculine fougere.

Really bizzare mix but the result is that I'm out of words... Rainy day...Or Black (new formula, a tad lighter than old one) + Terre d'Hermes (2006 batch)... Is this real life anymore ?!

One of my favourite cheapies. Resinous and soapy, but I'm not sure I can pick out half (any?) of the notes listed above, I just know I like it.

Love child of Dans Tes Bras, Royal Copenhagen and Rive Gauche. Defanged by the removal of oakmoss - but wrapped in a thick musk.

Musky, floral, soapy and dry. The color purple comes to mind. This could be a cheaper alternative to Prada Amber.

The notes here in Fragrantica don ́t match the ones listed on Morabito ́s website.