Chaleur Gitane

To quote George Takei "Oh My". Gourmand voile, very french, not getting the "gypsy" at all. Probably because some of the notes don't come out for me. Think 2006 Marie Antoinette high tea on a chateau balcony, in silk bamboo pajamas, with a gentle breeze swaying through sheer gauze curtains behind you. On the opening I get 75% dark chocolate, saffron, patchouli, amber, polished woods, soft ginger, and a floral white musk. The bergamot, pepper, raspberry and vanilla aren't present so much as being used as hammer and anvil to shape the other notes. They (vanilla excepted) don't ever make a full appearance for me at any point. I get about 20 minutes out of the opening, which is outstanding. Mid notes turn to very dark chocolate truffle with a cocoa liqour heart, saffron still present but warmer, an indian vanilla starts to come out, the amber flits around, a little vetiver, and benzoin to support it all beautifully. There is sandalwood present, but imagine sandalwood turned and polished as a Louis XV dressing table. I get about 90 minutes at this stage. The dry down is Indian vanilla, sandalwood (as previous), a tiny bit of polished cedar, with dark chocolate, amber, patchouli and white musk still wafting very lightly through. Sounds common enough, but this is expertly blended to a unique balance that is greater than the sum of its parts. Opening sillage is enormous. One spray will fill the house. Dries down to mid arm's length at a standstill, but will definitely catch attention if you walk past someone. Longevity is a solid five hours if you go down the shirt onto the chest, and a little in the hair. This is outstanding at any price, truly timeless, and can find a place on any woman at any age. Tested in winter, but would be fine any time, for any occasion or reason (unless you work around food) Completely in love with it, could easily turn it into my new signature. Blind buy totally recommended.

Saffronic ginger with hints of raspberry chocolate. I wasn't aware that this blend will turn this beautiful from that choco top note that does say anything about the drydown! The drydown is incredibly alluring! it has sweet vanilla saffron, with cumin, ginger, amber and vetiver. It does have chocolate but not that dominant as mich as the saffron, & the ginger vetiver mix. This is happy yet evil naughty blend with an amazing tingly herbal side. Impressive!

To my nose it is a confused mish-mash of notes. The strongest of them being the dark chocolate, which actually is very nice indeed, but the underlying dissonant composition spoils it entirely for me. Has also an unwashed aspect to it, which, together with the chocolate smells somewhat offputting/disgusting. 4/10

Despite being both gourmand and patchouli heavy, two characteristics that ordinarily do not attract me, this has become a perfume that I cannot do without. There is not a hint of sweetness and the dark chocolate becomes another facet of a dazzling array of spices. The perfumer has captured that dry, tragic, haunting sound of a gypsy singer and the fragrance indeed glows from inside. Moderate projection and good longevity. Wonderful.

Lovely mixture of cedar with chocolate & raspberries. Although not a fan of gourmand fragrances, I appreciate this one as it never descends into overeating annoyance. Also, the naming is apt here.