Empressa

What a wonderful fragrance! I ordered a few samples to test Penhaligon’s perfumes and I have to admit that my prejudice about the whole Coco Mademoiselle resemblance was relevant.... until I sprayed Empressa on my skin.. mouthwatering orange, soft patchouli and perfect blend of flowers and woody notes makes this fragrance so pleasant and beautiful. I got whiffs of this beauty whilst working and moving around and wondered which of the fragrances sprayed on my arms smelled so beautifully (I tested at least 4😅) and found out it was Empressa. Yes I detect similarities between this and Coco Mademoiselle, however the two cannot be confused by any means - Coco M. is definitely sharper and headache inducing, so heavy on patchouli on my skin. Empressa is soft, the orange and patchouli are so well blended with the other notes that you get a totally different feeling. Of course this is my opinion according to my skin that unfortunately for my bank account loves Penhaligon’s fragrances a little bit too much for my tastes 😑

This is like a fresh breath of air trapped in a cute little bottle. I’ve several Penhaligons fragrances and some of them smell quite similar, especially the Trade Routes collection (Babylon, Constantinople and Cairo). This one is definitely different, a burst of fruits in the opening...the blood orange really makes me think I’m sipping Aperol on ice in a lovely summer day. Many people mentioned it’s similar to Coco Mademoiselle which to be honest I don’t agree with. Coco Mademoiselle is loaded on patchouli and much powdery in the dry down than Empressa, which has a citrusy dry down and tends to get really unisex. In my opinion is more closer to Miss Dior 2012 (first Cherie reformulation). I sprayed MD on one wrist and Empressa on the other and I find a lot of similarities. Also it reminds me a lot of Oriens from Van Cleef & Arpels.

Coco Mademoiselle is more reserved, old money young lady vibes, while Empressa is more charismatic, opulent and regal. Both are sophisticated, but have completely different personalities. Coco Mademoiselle, although I also like it, is too good-girl for me, but not in that flirty, confident Delina way, rather in the classic Chanel way. Coco Mademoiselle is tweed and pearls, Empressa is silk and emeralds. To me, the difference between the two is so stark that if I hadn't known they are similar, I would never have tried to compare them. To me, Empressa smells juicy, rounded, and rich compared to the drier, soapy clean Coco Mademoiselle, and I never was inclined to get a bottle of the latter despite liking it, whereas Empressa has both myself and my boyfriend in a chokehold and will be joining my collection soon.

I just tried Empressa and was rather determined not to like it. The name is silly, the story ridiculous and it is very expensive, the first spray confirmed my suspicion of a heavy going sugary snack. Except that it developed into a beautifully balanced affair that clung to my skin without a hint of cloying. It is divine, and it lasts for ever. I read the reviews here and decided to retry Coco mademoiselle which I had not liked. I tried three versions of Coco M and I do not get it. Empressa is voluptuous, sensuous and generous without being heavy. Coco M to me is the opposite, a thin but headeachy scent. The former is an absolute yes and the latter a clear no. Maybe the ingredients are similar but one of the chefs has Michelin stars and the other works the lunch shift at the local cafe.

I have this from a Penhaligon's sample kit, and it's my favourite of the set (which also includes Luna, The Favourite, Elizabeth Rose and Halfeti). I did not like the opening when I sampled it on the paper at the store at all, but on my skin it's complex and develops beautifully. Dry downs in perfumes are generally polarising for me because I almost always only smell just one note after a few hours (especially when it comes to musk), but Empressa's I absolutely love. The opening does have a similar DNA to Coco M (probably the citrusy bergamot and orange notes), and the dry down remains sophisticated and complex. This smells like an expensive, well dressed, put-together woman. I just imagine that ladies at a high-society garden tea party in Kate Middleton-esque dresses smell like this.