Iris Prima

It a fragrance that doesn’t smell “fragrant” Of course, that isn’t a new idea. But this one — unlike Chanel No. 5 — It doesn’t attempt to challenge the public aesthetic of its time. It doesn’t smell “niche” either; it doesn’t try to be unexpected or extraordinary just to become an “attention-gatherer.” Instead, it feels as though it’s trying to escape your notice... For me, the more it tries to escape, the more I can’t help but notice it. ⸻ The Scent This iris does smell like iris. But it won't bring you the usual aloofness or self-contained feeling. It is an approachable and easy-going iris. This leather does smell like leather. But it brings delicacy and innocence (which is an unusual quality in a leather accord). Altogether, this fragrance isn’t “fragrant” in the conventional sense, but it’s pleasantly, quietly delicious to my nose. ⸻ Development and Performance Nothing dramatic, nothing unconventional. Once applied, it settles and blends seamlessly into the skin, lasting a comfortable 6–8 hours. This isn’t the kind of perfume that wears you or imposes a new mood, nor does it try to evoke some hidden persona. If it’s already part of you, it stays with you quietly — with a minimal sillage, only the intimate ones will notice. And if it isn’t you, you won’t feel compelled to understand it — because it won’t try to explain or prove itself either. ⸻ If I could paint this scent as something tangible, it would be a girl: no makeup, no jewelry, just well-groomed hair and nails, wearing soft, well-worn jeans and a loosely fitted, light-colored sweater. She leans by the window on a quiet afternoon, giggling at something that truly amuses her, but she’ll never let you know what that is.

Penhaligon's Iris Prima is my first niche house perfume and I couldn't be more satisfied with my purchase as this perfume is revealing itself each day more a gorgeous, rare pearl amongst all the perfumes I have or have smelt before. Being a blind buy I didn't know what to expect from it but this is one of the most stunning perfumes, that starts off beautiful and when it develops with every hour that passes it becomes even more interesting, powdery with a prominent leather note and a tart vibe. The perfume is really longlasting on my skin and I particularly love the sour and fresh smell of bergamot that lingers after many hours I've applied. A real gem created by the hand (or nose) of Alberto Morillas, one of my favourite perfumers and after some minutes I had applied the scent on my wrist I could tell it bares the typical DNA of Morillas perfumes. This is a niche perfume and it also has the genetics of niche but when it developed on my skin I had the impression I had smelt this fragrance before, not the same of course but very similar and I couldn't help but think of Lanvin Oxygene for women. They are both created by Morillas and even though they have very different notes still they are powdery and tart and very subtly, almost not noticeably sweet which is a winner for me because I love Oxygene so much and got so upset knowing that it's now discontinued. Oxygene is more sweet though and has that distinguishable milk note while Iris Prima is less sweet and more crisp. Now I can use Iris Prima more being that it reminds me so much of Oxygene and keep the few ml of Oxygene to sniff from time to time for nostalgy.

This fragrance is sadly discontinued but I was fortunate enough to acquire an unused 100ml bottle from a fragrance collector. I am relatively new to iris fragrances and naturally approached Iris Prima with a great deal of curiosity. My only prior experience with the note was in Givenchy Gentleman Reserve Privee, where I discovered just how much I enjoy the powdery character of Iris as well as with a small sampler of Iris Malikhan; which I also like but I think has more of an 'acquired taste' type of Iris composition. However, Iris Prima introduced me to an entirely different side Iris. I live in a tropical climate, so I'm generally careful with fragrances that are very powdery, heavy or dense. However, my workdays are largely spent in an air-conditioned office and Iris Prima feels perfectly suited to that environment and a cooler setting is where this fragrance can truly be appreciated. I'll say it succinctly; this fragrance is beautiful! It feels very refined and unsophisticated. However, don't let my use of the word 'unsophisticated' fool you into thinking this fragrance is in any way basic. Despite the many notes listed, Iris Prime knows exactly what it wants to be, a smooth, airy and powdery fragrance with a luxurious velvety texture that feels very balanced and inviting. It's a shame this is discontinued as I don't believe in collecting fragrances to never use them and I can see myself getting through my bottle fairly quickly. 9/10

I am loving this fragrance and my fondness for a Penhaligon's is totally unexpected. Prior to smelling Iris Prima the only Penhaligon's I had ever liked at all was Lavandula. Iris Prima opens like a traditional eau de toilette with fresh bergamot and a hint of resins and vetiver. Then a beautiful cool iris enters and takes over for a few minutes. It smells very fresh and natural like a real iris flower. However the perfumer made this happen, it works for me. Then the vetiver becomes a bit more prominent and a soft leather note enters. It's a beautiful soft leather, not a bitter dry cracked leather to my nose. It gives the impression of the soft leather of the bottom of a ballet shoe- truly. Some people have said they find the vetiver too dry and too prominent in Iris Prima. Fortunately that is not true on my skin. As the fragrance develops it softens with the vanilla and the jasmine comes in the drydown, a lovely soft floral note to balance the wood and amber. I find this to be a glorious scent on my skin. It is totally unisex to my nose- it could be worn easily by a woman or a man. Sillage is moderate when you first spray it on but it moves to a skin scent after about 90 minutes. But the skin scent remains for me all day. If you want to smell the fragrance more, spray it on your clothes as well. I find this to be full bottle worthy and I just bought a back up bottle, which I almost never do.

Iris Prima is an extraordinary perfume , an incontestable masterpiece. I've never smelt something similar or close to it yet but still it reminds me of things and places. The notes are in harmony with each other, yet I can detect them separately. The perfume opens with a zesty, fresh and sour bergamot combined with red pepper. The bergamot in this feels so realistic to me, it's like squeezing it out and you get that freshness right in your nose. But the true protagonist of the scent is Leather which is omnipresent from the opening to the drydown. What changes is the nuances that Leather takes while accompanied with various notes during the different stages. In the opening I get Leather and bergamot for some fresh vibes, during development I get Leather and Iris for some dry, powdery shades and finally on the drydown I catch whiffs of Leather and sweet notes of vanilla, Amber and Jasmine. It's a fragrance created so masterfully and majestically that is unmistakable, it has a remarkable DNA that identifies it from the other fragrances. On my skin the perfume has great longevity but it's not loud, it sits close to skin and I catch wafts all along. Sillage is rather moderate but present and I love to smell it when it quietly lays on my skin for hours, showing its different facets during the stages of development.