Musc Maori 04

A lovely riff on classic powdery (and often floral) musk perfumes, Musc Maori zigs instead of zags--where so many of these perfumes head in the direction of vanilla, or just lightly sweetened lactonic "milk musk," MM goes for a chocolate variant. Some chocolate-scented perfumes are busy and stimulating, especially those that depend on spicy patchouli, but this isn't that kind of a trip--no Gothic depths here, no incense, nothing that would scare the horses. Imagine instead the soothing effects of a pre-bedtime glass of Ovaltine (if you know, you know) or a cup of warm milk with just a little cocoa stirred in. The chocolate accord is plenty well rounded and gives a sense of luxury, but in the relaxed sense of luxe, like high thread-count sheets and quality cushions waiting for a tired head at the end of a long day. At least, that's when I wear Musc Maori--most of the time. This perfume's other natural habitat is in cooler weather, with a cozy sweater and an afternoon with no particular plans--its linear composition and obvious gourmand qualities would rule it out, at least for me, from occasions where I want to project sophistication. Perversely, I also like to wear Musc Maori in summer, as it also reminds me of high-quality cocoa butter, something that I enjoy with parched skin after a session in the pool or a trip to the beach: just don't overdo it in the heat, as the milkiness can become claggy in high doses at warm temperatures. This one took me a little while to learn to love; I was given several samples that I passed on to my gourmand-loving friends and swap partners, until one day I realized that it had snuck up on me, and that I not only needed it in my life, but I also needed enough that I wouldn't have to worry about running out any time in the next decade or two. Comfort perfumes occupy a significant part of my wearing life, and a disproportionately small part of my collection, considering that I reach for one pretty much every night. Since it covers several bases for me, MM is a welcome addition to my collection. Since it isn't even straightforwardly foody, Musc Maori transcends the gourmand genre--at least for me. And I'm off to bed now, gently eased towards sleep in its welcoming arms.

A scent memory that you hadn't had chocolate for years, or you hadn't ever had chocolate but were sure you wanted to try it. Steps into the room with the poise of a well-read chocolatier in silk gloves. This is not your teenage cocoa-drenched body spray; this is a grown-up chocolate who has opinions about Bergman films. The opening? A cocoa butter effervescence, airy and intriguing, like someone carbonated a truffle. Others find blatant orange, I say nonsense. I get almond (and coffee?) blossom whisper, a sort of phantom floral. The coffee blossom or chocolate accords used here have an almost cherry-like quality in the opening, which is *chef’s kiss*. The drydown trades chocolate for cocoa butter, then sighs into vanilla and musk. To me the musk is nearly invisible (but it's the corset undr the ballgown. Subtle, shaping, essential). Projection? Not very far. But the sillage! A phantomm with great taste in scarves. She's gone (I think), but then a man always wants to sniff me. (Is there a science about why lots of men always love the vanilla perfumes? It feels like it should be a cliche if it isn't yet.) Note: This one lives on several Venn diagrams, and I think it bridges several gaps. Suitable for gourmands and those who appreciate the sound of the notes. Or the sound of an elevated Palmer's Cocoa Butter made by a very talented and serious(ly photographed) perfumer. Note: Pierre's photograph above, I saw it. You go look too, it's everything you could want from your French Parfumier's likeness. OMG. Note: I cannot stop looking at him. Note: I'm still here, staring at Pierre. Note: Has anyone written fanfic about Pierre? If so can you DM me?

"Delicately sheer floral chocolate musk" Musc Maori has been a staple in my collection for years when I'm in the mood for something gourmand and sweet. I'm only recently starting to enjoy really sweet fragrances, and when I first bought this many years ago I was put off by the initial chocolatey beginning. Musc Maori really smells like chocolate pudding at the start. But the reason I love this so much is that it isn't as synthetic and foody as other scents like Montale Chocolate Greedy or any of the Comptoir Sud fragrances. Musc Maori reminds me most of Van Cleef's Orchidee Vanille, which means it also has slightly floral and slightly musky facets to the overall sweet chocolate/vanille vibe. I would describe the musk as a vanilla-musk or a sheer clean white musk (there is nothing deeply musky or dark/skanky about this at all -- it's a very sweet, clean fragrance). If you like some sweet scents and occasionally crave a chocolate note but don't generally like it when your fragrance accurately resembles something real, then you should give Musc Maori a whirl. I find this to be a beautifully sweet chocolately scent but I don't think it smells juvenile or overboard. The longevity and sillage are moderate if you spray it a bunch of times (and it sticks to clothing). My two favorite gourmand/chocolate scents at the moment are PG Musc Maori and Profumum Dulcis in Fundo. Both are kind of light and delicate while still very sweet but they aren't cloying or overdone. Musc Maori is a gem! It's delightfully sweet but just right for me.

I tried a sample of this perfume from Lucky Scent and liked it enough to buy a big bottle. My one complaint is it doesn’t last long on my extremely dry skin but I live in the Arizona desert with temperatures soaring over 120 degrees in summer few perfumes last long on me. I still bought this for layering with other gourmand scents since I love bakery and coffee perfumes together. Notes on this perfume say coffee but on my skin I never smell any coffee. This smells like bakery chocolate pastries, specifically a Napoleon, with vanilla strong. No amber or other notes listed for this perfume are noticeable on my skin. This is a skin scent I notice on myself for about 2-3 hours if inside house but outside it will burn off within 2 hours . People have to be close to me to notice I am wearing this perfume but I smell ithis yummy scent and it quenches my sweet craving. I recommend this perfume to gourmand lovers but buy a sample to test hoe it smells on your skin. I notice on reviews others mentioned oranges and plastic scent that never showed up on me. Ironically one reason I buy so many perfume samples is most perfumes - even Creed Aventus for Her - smell like gross plastic dolls on my skin. It is a nightmare searching for a signature scent because few perfumes mix well with my body chemistry. That is why I suggest testing this perfume, it smells great on me but might not on you.

I like how this smells, but it's just wayyyy too sweet on me. It's a very sweet milky chocolate. You know after you eat a bowl of chocolate cereal (coco pops, mmm) and there's that leftover milk at the bottom that stole all of the chocolate flavouring? It reminds me of that, except a little more powdery and with the sweetness amped way up. Sort of like somebody took said leftover cereal milk and dumped a cup of chocolate milkshake powder in it. I love the chocolatey whafts I get when I wearing this, but it just gives me a headache after a while (no matter how sparingly I apply it.) I guess it's just too much for me! If you like chocolate scents and can handle the sweeter stuff better than I can, definitely give this one a go. It lasts around ~12 hours and has average projection IMO. Update 03/06/16: I came across a bottle of this at a low price a little while ago and couldn't say no. I have to say that this fragrance works so, so much better when sprayed!! I was originally sampling this from a small dabber vial and I guess it concentrated the sweetness a little too much for me. When sprayed this smells just like the milk leftover from eating Coco Pops (with no milkshake powder overdose!) Much more yummy and wearable.