Dirty Rose

Cute rose although it's dirty... Musky oudi rose indeed with light patchouli, bits of milk, cardamom, & hints of yuzu. I detect some black spruce as the one in "Black Spruce" by TRNP beside some hints of vetiver with vanilla bourbon flavor. I also get a very light touch of the skank that is in "Al Oudh" by L'Artisan Parfumeur, & the dates in "Across Sands" by Maison Martin Margiela. This is not a rose, this is more of dirty oud with sweet bourbon and smoke flavor. brilliant indeed. Edit (45 mins in) Surprisingly, the cool down is similar to "Amber Noir" by Angela Flanders top note but lighter.

Official notes: there is no oud in this fragrance Top notes: Bergamot, Black Spruce, Laurel, Cherrywood Smoke Heart notes: Rose, Nagarmotha, Teak wood, Tobacco, Cedar, Mahogany, Earth Base notes: Amber, Costus, Leather, Vetiver Bourbon (from Bourbon Island), Labdanum

I like Paul and his style, and I like this, but I do find myself really wishing this had the oud and animalic notes as planned. This is rose through and through with PK's complex, layered, translucent green effects, a bit earthy. It smells very natural and complete, but I can definitely see where the oud and musk would have gone. There was an "intense" version planned to include those things, but I don't think it was ever released. To be clear, it's just my preference that this would have some weightier, darker, dirtier things to anchor it, because heavier fragrances work well for me. It's still a perfectly lovely rose, and one that's set apart from the standard mainstream-niche rose accords.

Spicy gothic rose would be more my description if this than dirty. Yes it has a good dose of patchouli to give the earthy (dirt-y) part but a dry spicy wood is what I get mainly with the rose over the top. It’s quite a dark take on rose, not a bright happy airy one, this is thick and jammy. I don’t think this is as good as say POAL but it’s very nice and certainly better value than that for an interesting take on a rose fragrance.

One of my least favorite PK perfumes. Heady and headache inducing. I prefer Tom Ford's Noir de Noir for an earthier and better executed fragrance without the civet. Considering his other creations are so excellent this was a bit disappointing.

This fragrance was created for one of Paul Kiler’s customers. He wanted a scent with his favorite note -musk- and also agarwood (oud). But Paul presented the result without the presence of musk and without his oud blend, created exclusively for his fragrances. And it worked! In fact, it was so successful that even though there was a gap to be filled, Paul received compliments and decided to leave this way, thinking of using the requested notes in a second creation, which is already about to hit the market and will be called Dirty Rose Oud Extreme (I received samples and I will review it, as soon as possible). I asked the official notes to Paul, who promptly answered me and also put them on the website, avoiding future doubts. They are: bergamot, black Spruce (whose wood is widely used in the manufacture of guitars), Laurel and cherrywood smoke, in the output; Rose, nagarmotha (cypriol), teak wood, tobacco, cedar, mahogany and Earth accord, in the heart; Costus, amber, leather, Bourbon vetiver and labdanum, at the base. I know how to begin this review: saying that I found another great fragrance created over the scent of roses, perfectly suited for men and, of course, radiant for women. Until then, I have only found a single fragrance in this same style, from Montale house. Other than that, perfumes with roses tend to the female side or the rose only complements the creation, in the midst of so many other notes. Dirty Rose is really a "dirty" rose, which touches the skin intensively. And the official image matches the fragrance, because it’s exactly the scent of Red-ruby roses, with their velvety petals and burnt smell that I feel. And I say that because in my mother's garden there are roses like that. It's not that cleaning smell of white roses, nor the innocent scent of yellow roses. I guess this is the perfume felt by rose pickers, with its thorns, Earth, and everything that goes along with tons of rose petals, before being processed to extract their essential oil. On my skin, the result was moist, smoky and full of Woods. The heart notes are present from the beginning to the end of the evolution when the amber shows up and leaves a slight creaminess in the aroma. It is worth mentioning that is the kind of fragrance that lasts for more than 10 hours on the skin, with ease. And here I go, towards the Oud Extreme version!

You know how everyone has their own treasured family recipes. Favorite dishes that taste slightly different from other families because of the beloved ingredients and special touches that are added. Well, this is PK's version of an oud/rose perfume, and it is wonderful. Kiler has taken materials that are often used, and mixed them to his own preference, with the discerning taste of a perfumista. This smells like what we want an oud/rose perfume to smell like. The oud is woody, exotic and potent. The rose is mixed into the accord so that it enhances, but doesn't steal the show. Same with patchouli, and the musk adds sparkle and depth without becoming raunchy or cheap. Dirty Rose is earthy, natural and easy to wear. A composition that has everything we want in a oud/rose scent, and nothing that we don't!