Rattikarn (รัตติกาล)

Another banger from Prin. Reminiscent of Chetyre and Onthamara in its rich smokiness. This is much more gentle and accessible and versatile. It remains to be seen if the trade-off is in performance.

According to one website, sugandha kokila is "Exotic, sweet, and spicy, ...[its] aroma combines hints of cinnamon with eucalyptus-like notes." Yes! I get all of that—along with the sweet florals and initial citrus! However, all of this goes away and leaves behind just a shadow of the former self along with musk accord & cumin.

I’ve been on the hunt for a good perfume with a note of lapsang souchong. This one scratched the itch. The smoky earthiness of the tea is supported wonderfully by all the florals and spices. it starts strongly of the smoky lapsang souchong, but settled and allows the other notes to sing their songs. Great perfume!

As a manifestation of the light at the end of the tunnel, Rattikarn begins with its descent into nocturnal darkness. And, from here, of course, Prin proves the genius of his use of materials. The florals of osmanthus and rose act to provide a basis for the Thai oud and incredible Lapsang Souchong to shine, invoking a fuzzy pinewood smoke. Prin's deer musk is unsurprisingly prominent though not as much so as in other creations, and the smokiness therefore presents itself as a subtle as opposed to forceful backdrop. Finally, the more important feature is the Sugandha Kokila, which is, from what I understand, synonymous with Cinnamomum glaucescens, which has a "camphor-like spicy aroma". And, as Calvini points out, it provides an "Exotic, sweet, and spicy" kick to an otherwise dormant scent; essentially, a disquietude contrasting with a distinct composure.

Nice chypre, complex and moreish. Prin often uses new interesting materials