Fiori d'Ambra

This perfume makes my stomach do somersaults. The first time I smelled it--and I sincerely hate to use this word in a review of a perfume that contains an opium flower note--it was narcotic. So good, like nothing I had ever smelled. I NEEDED IT. I distinctly felt butterflies in my stomach, I am talking about a very real physiological reaction. It was not easy to figure out what I was smelling and why it made me feel that way. It was certainly more animalic than Profumum's own Ambra Aurea, something I had not expected, and floral. Some kind of white floral with the edges of the petals dipped in freshly grated cinnamon bark. The next day I sampled again. I was truly unprepared for my reaction. It smelled they way I imagine rotting human flesh might smell. Now in my stomach the butterflies flew away, replaced by a churning sensation, like I might become ill. In any case, a physiological reaction occurred again. I could not stop thinking of that disturbing movie, Perfume, with that creepy Baptiste boy scraping the scent off of the skins of corpses, his victims. As the perfume became sweeter (I was so grateful) and the animalic notes melded effortlessly with the oils of my own skin, the perfume began to smell like the skin of a beautiful woman who wore Opium (yes, YSL's Opium) the day before, waking up the next morning with the perfume faintly lingering on her skin. Not my skin. Her skin. My skin smelled like somebody else's skin. It is so macabre [shiver]! And yet it has me hooked. Here is the description of Fiori d'Ambra, taken directly from Profumum Roma: "A candle diffuses the scent of opium and amber An elegantly unmade bed And my book on the night table. In my mind thoughts of her." Fiori d'Ambra doesn't smell like YSL's Opium, but it is reminiscent, sort of like when a popular band releases a tribute album. The same, but different. Fiori d'Ambra, like Opium, smells of amber, incense, a tad sweet, and spicy with cinnamon as the dominant spice. The difference is that Fiori d'Ambra is much less sharp, much smoother in every possible way, and animalic. It smells like Opium after it has been on the skin for at least 36 hours. And those of us who know vintage Opium know it can last much longer than that. I wonder how long it will take for me to form a solid opinion on it. Is it disturbing? Is it sexy? Is it possible to have both qualities at the same time? I don't think so. The only question about Fiori d'Ambra that I can answer definitively is: Is it forgettable? NO!

There is this belief that no fragrance currently in production could possibly smell like the hallowed vintages. There is also this belief that if you've smelled one amber you've pretty much smelled them all. Most of us with a certain level of discernment would vehemently disagree on both points, and I posit that Fiore d'Ambra would test both beliefs. My first experience with its opening startled me: a snap of bergamot made wet with saliva and cream soda. Then comes a shot and heavy, breathy vanilla, and an element that I would describe as gusset emanations as experienced during an intimate encounter. I am fascinated with notions of covering up the dirty with scented powders—times before prevalent indoor plumbing; times were human odors were an integral part of courtship. Fior d'Ambra nods at this the way that some of the Nina Riccis and Schiaparellis perfumes of the mid-20th century. I appreciate reviewer ClaireV's likening it to Youth Dew sprayed on a dirty crotch. I will also agree with her that this is by no means merely an amber. This is more about ambergris steering Fiore d'Ambra than the standard amber trichord of vanilla, benzoin, and labdanum. So its spit and salt and that obscure wet tobacco back note—that kind of ambergris effect, not Ambroxan (though who knows? perhaps some of that is hidden here as well). Yet its as soft as fur, intimate even, unlike its sibling in the Profumum Roma canon, Ambra Aurea, which propels its smoky, resinous density with bravado. It is also sweet—and no, certainly not like a "gourmand" (I've decided to put this term in quotes from here onward). It is the kind of sweet that comes in persistent whiffs like just caramelized sugar from the stove, veiled by indistinct white flowers and the inherent salacity of its musks. It's brilliance is in its feeling of decadence without overwhelming the senses. Oh heavens, this is good.

Some of what can be said about Profumum Roma's other amber fragrance Ambra Aurea can also be said about this fragrance. They both open up with a boozy and sweet aspect (which sort of smells like a ginger ale cocktail or something) which only lasts for a couple of minutes, and then they both dry down to a warm, dry, woody and cozy amber vibe with a nice touch of vanilla. They achieve this in very different ways, however. Fiore d'Ambra leans much more into a somewhat floral and sweet vibe while Ambra Aurea is much more raw and rugged, almost salty. I can sort of see why some would say that this leans feminine due to the slightly floral vibe (the name, after all, means "Amber Flower"), but to me this is still definitely unisex. It's not floral as in light and fleetingly sweet and feminine, rather the floral aspect is grounded in a rich, dark and woody amber which to me makes it feel like a thick and cozy headshop incense. I definitely get a certain hippie vibe, in a really good way. It feels warm, soft, natural, smooth... Intimate, sexy and bohemian... And I'm not even generally that much of a fan of amber fragrances! Performance is great and the longevity is amazing. Fairly linear as it dries down, although the further into the drydown you get the more it gets a kind of soft vanilla tone to it as well. Like Ambra Aurea, this one will stick on your skin until the next day, and will stay on your clothes until you wash them. It's amazing how completely different Profumum Roma fragrances are from each other, the only common "DNA" is the fact that they are all so high quality and smell so natural. BTW... Come on Fragrantica... We can all see in the picture that it's called "FiorE", not "Fiori"... Get your shit straight. :P

Fiori d ambra was my very first love in the world of perfumes, and still is! This is a piece of art. You don't wear it when doing the laundry or anything like that, that would be an insult not only to the perfume itself, but to the makers and the nose behind it. The very first time I tried it, I imagined myself on an ottoman wearing something expensive and silky, reading Baudelaire or maybe even de Sade in a room where the only light source is the fire in the fireplace. I want to be VERY clear - this is a perfume with a huge personality and soul. If you consider yourself as a person not wishing to stand out or bother people nearby, choose something else. Otherwise you will be carried by the perfume, not the other way around. Tip! Since the content of perfumes like Profumums are high in oil content, you are able to gently rub it into your skin without destroying the composition. This is possible when the percentage pass at least 20% (Profumum = around 40%). If the visible signs after the spray last at least 10 seconds (depending on how close the skin is from the bottle), then go ahead. If not, don't. Perfumes with less oils are not made for such "mechanical" impact. At last: Do not blind buy anything in this price tag level after reading reviews or descriptions, nor because somebody recommends it without test it on your own skin. The quantity of oils makes them very individual on the skin compared to cheaper alternatives.

I would like to say that this stuff is otherworldly...but it is not, because I connect this expression with something pure and innocent, angelic and heavenly. That - Fiori d'Ambra is not... as it is quite the opposite – dark and mysterious, mystic, narcotic (vertigo’s description – I really like), sensual and almost sexual... But it is also playfully winking; it is mischievous, seductive, a bit sinful and even troublesome. I would say that this fragrance will suit to both men and women and that it has the potential to develop very individually on each skin...like a snake slithering over and smoothly enveloping your body, it might warm and lift up the natural scent of human skin. I like kastehelmi’s comparison to “...dark herbal ointment on a wound..” – That is very fitting. There is fire and there is somewhat hypnotic earthy sweetness in there and an air of timelessness. Very potent, long lasting and exquisite.

Opening of this smells incredibly dirty and musky to me. Filthiest animal musk I’ve smelled - more than Muscs Koublai Khan. That calms down after a few minutes but it’s a bit shocking (and fun). I'd guess this has to do with the opium note and maybe cumin but I can't say because I have no idea what opium smells like. I’m surprised people haven’t mentioned the similarity of this and Musc Ravageur. On me they seem almost identical except that Fiore d’Ambra smells a bit dirtier and less complex. But both are sweet, spicy, powdery scents. I’ve only had this on for a couple hours and I need to shower so unfortunately I can’t comment on the longevity yet. Sillage seems to be arm’s length at most which is what I’m noticing for most of the Profumum Roma samples I’ve tried. I really love what I've experienced of this so far. Looking forward to getting to try this out for a whole day.

Just as everyone else said-this is like Opium by Yves Saint Laurent with only the good elements, and none of the bad... Smooth as a dark herbal ointment on a wound...I'm not saying that this is herbal though...This is a rich sweet womanly scent, yet the origins are foul: real ambergris, you know what that is. Only morally disturbing is the use of the opium poppy in fragrance (I am being tongue-in-cheek here)... I have no idea whether the source of ingredients is real ambergris, and I am skeptical that the "opium" comes from an infusion or effleurage of poppies, but perhaps. Fiori d'Ambra is a great name-flowers so full of nectar they collapse under their own weight, swooning.... Buxom velvety inky heavy sex in a bottle, deep and almost cloying but not loud, direct nor too difficult to wear for the "average" fan of Orientals, whoever that is....

Fiori d'Ambra completely stole my heart. ♡ From the very first spray I'm surrounded by warm, glowing amber with a soft honeyed sweetness. It's rich and comforting without ever feeling heavy. On my skin, it becomes beautifully powdery, with a delicate floral softness that makes it feel elegant rather than overly sweet. What I love most is how effortlessly everything blends together. Nothing stands out on its own, yet every note adds something to the whole. It feels luxurious, comforting, and incredibly easy to wear. Every time I wear it, I feel wrapped in warmth. It's one of those rare fragrances that instantly lifts my mood and makes me feel a little more put together. For me, Fiori d'Ambra is pure comfort with a touch of elegance—and one of the easiest loves in my collection. ♡♡♡♡♡

Sometimes fragrances can be frustrating. Some times there's a reaction when you don't want there to be and other times there is nothing when you so desperately want there to be. Why are we fragrance collectors? What is it that we are collecting? I think some of us are trying to hold on to memories. And within that, certain scents aid in evoking the art of reminiscence. True art speaks differently to different people. That's why it's subjective. It can't be forced and it can't speak to everyone. The most important aspect in art is your ability to understand your self. Without that, you will never be able to really appreciate what is in front of you because art will never speak to you if you do not speak to you. I almost let Fiori D’Ambra slip through my fingers.

I'm really torn as to which of the house's two ambers I like best. While Ambra Aurea is sweet and forthright and people are drawn to sniff you like a buffet on feet, this one... dark and mysterious are two very-fitting words! Fiore d'Ambra is the more-sophisticated sibling with a little attitude, it has secrets that it keeps, it makes you hesitate and work a bit before accepting it- so sexy... and then you're smitten! The composition is definitely centered upon Sumatran benzoin/loban/sambraani, and the reference to (but certainly NOT copy of) YSL 'Opium' is very apparent, yet Fiore d'Ambra retains its own character.

A strong sensual ambergris vanilla perfume that lasts forever. I have a love hate relationship with Fiori D'ambra. Some days it's just too strong and unbearable while other days it's cozy and elegant. But I've discovered a way to actually enjoy the scent and bring out the vanilla–Profumum Roma's signature gourmand base. One spray of the perfume a far and rub the scent across the skin like body oil to soften the animalic notes. You'll get to the rich creamy vanilla base faster. It's starts out gross but dries down to a grown-up gourmand vanilla.

So strange how perfume can completely change on each of us fragranticans...( Laughs to self at review below) On me this is White florals, creamy amber/vanilla, and A pinch of cinnamon that adds a bit of heat to this lovely concoction. It is a bit carnal, strangely addictive( can’t stop smelling my wrist)...I’m not sure what opium smells like, but definitely strikes up images of a bygone era of opium dens, romantics, and Bohemianism. This is a lovely little indulgence and I will definitely be buying a full bottle of this wicked little gem.

Starts with a liquory note with a light flower accord which disappears almost instantly. At the same time, the warmth unfolds on the skin. Amber is well combined with some spices and vanilla. This blend gives you a slightly animalic impression which appears cozy at the same time. It’s like sitting in front of the fireplace... Wearing of this fragrance is much the same as sitting relaxed by the fireplace- it’s perfectly wearable during the colder days. Strong recommended for lovers of amber scents!

I also have a sample of this from Lucky Scent. This is a unique Amber scent to my nose; it has that "musty attic mothball" tinge to it. As other reviewers have mentioned too it has a real narcotic quality to it. It makes me sniff my wrist A LOT. I think people either love or hate that "mothball" scent, so watch out if you're not a fan! Because it does have a bit more interest than typical Amber fragrances, I will need a full bottle!

I finally splurged for a bottle of this and it was totally worth it and is so potent and long lasting, I wont ever have to rebuy. I usually need 1-2 sprays and it smells a lot like a more amber rich version of L'Artisan's amber balls (and if you like this fragrance you will love those too, also sold by luckyscent). I love this one mixed with a little vanilla to sweeten it up, but it is very rich and beautiful on its own.

This has to be my favourite amber! I get the opium references, but to me, it's quite an old-school scent (in the nicest possible way) and has that pre-ww2 vibe to it. The scent calms down after the application and doesn't change much (that's not bad!), staying the same throughout its journey: ambery-spicy top and heart with a super musky dry down. Longevity is really good on my skin.

This is the best amber i have ever tried! I think its the opium that gives it that little extra special spice. This is spicer than the ambra auera, with less vanilla and incense. This is not a powdery amber, but a rich, spicy and almost sweet one. Every lover of amber should try these IMO! Long lasting, high quality and just smells (for lack of a better word) expensive.

Starts off sharp but quickly settles into a very warm, cuddly, spicy amber with loads of creamy vanilla (even though it's not listed) plus an ultra realistic and narcotic opium note. Reminds me of classic spicy heavy hitters but softer, cozier, and more modern. Just started wearing this one but it is quickly becoming an ultimate comfort scent-FB worthy.

I will break the rule of a lifetime and be terse. Amber brilliance. Stunning, gourgeous, beautifull fragrance. Has to be experienced to be understood. No review can convey what your nose will sniff and your brain will process. Not animalic to my nose. The only thing stopping me from buying a few more bottles is the price. Big love!!

Just a note: some varieties of poppies do indeed have a scent. The ones I have smelled have a soft and pleasant fragrance. Truly it's own kind of floral scent--not heady or intense like white flowers, not green and sharp like hyacinth nor spicy like lillies. Maybe something along the lines of magnolia.