Eau de Rochas Homme

When Eau de Rochas Homme hit the market, fragrances with the same olfactory signature already existed, so it didn't represent a major innovation at the time. But it was important for the brand, that the male version was up to the female version, which continued to bring good results with sales, even two decades after its creation. The acting perfumer of Rochas - Nicolas Mamounas -, who also created the feminine version, bet on a classic citrus-aromatic, which could bring the elegance that existed at the time when the feminine perfume was launched. Going back in time, we had Eau Sauvage (Dior, 1966) and YSL Pour Homme (YSL, 1971), with their citrus accords, floral body, and woody base. The formula was always the same: lots of lemon, bergamot, basil, verbena, geranium, moss, and vetiver. Eau de Rochas Homme did not escape the rule and brought a composition full of ingredients, just like in the old times, that is, without minimalism. Officially, there was no talk of reformulation. But along with the repackaging of men's fragrances, which occurred in the 2000s, some adjustments were made in several lines and Eau de Rochas Homme was not left out. Visually, it hasn't changed much, except for the lid. Regarding the fragrance, loyal users since the 90's claim that the recent version is no longer as mossy. However, they say that it is still very loyal to the original version. On the skin, Eau de Rochas Homme is a refreshing treat. Unlike other perfumes from the competition, this one brings more versatility and a touch of youthfulness. The first stage explodes with a more natural and light aspect, the evolution is not as astringent as in the other fragrances mentioned and the drying does not seem so heavy. Does this mean that it has left aside the classic style or, as it is popularly called, the “uncle/grandpa” style? No. But the uncle who wears Eau de Rochas Homme is younger, takes care of his appearance, and just turned 40. Which does not mean, that the young man in his twenties, and sober soul, is forbidden to wear this fragrance, just to make it clear. Obviously, with so many volatile notes, Eau de Rochas Homme is not the best example of trail and longevity. But it is, still, one of the best options available for hot days, if you are that type of user who doesn't get along with watermelon nuances, ozonic accords, or soapy effects. More than a citrus-aromatic, this perfume has a chypre aura that makes all the difference. In particular, I smell fresh lemonade, slightly sweetened, and without any sour side. It is a clean, fresh, and elegant perfume (without having to take etiquette lessons) and with an invigorating appeal. Of course, I can only speak for myself, but if you like this type of fragrance, I believe that you will no longer be without a bottle after you know this one.

Like sunlight streaming through an open window... Eau de Rochas Homme is a very good, comfortable, fresh summer scent that carries a surprising amount of weight for being a such a citrus cocktail. The opening lime and bergamot could fairly be described as “confident” and VERY bright. There’s something wonderfully balanced about the old-school and modern citrus accords, too. They are fresh without being too sporty, and clean without smelling like a post-marathon scrubdown. The basil adds an aromatic twist that gives it depth and a slightly earthy quality, with the overall effect being like gardening in a lime grove. The middle notes introduce jasmine, carnation, freesia, rose, lily of the valley, and violet, all of which is either charmingly retro or mildly concerning, depending on your tolerance for florals in men’s fragrance. It’s handled with such restrained masculinity that it never tips into grandfather territory, though. A touch of bitter artemisia and spicy-fresh coriander balances out the florals very nicely. While there are absolutely some similarities, it’s not quite a 1960s Eau Sauvage kind of floral (though I love Eau Sauvage, too). The spicy carnation does most of the heavy lifting here, providing just enough pepper to give it a botanical kick without edging you close to a sneeze. I would like to see them push up the freesia a little bit to carry more of the green accord along with the existing white florals, but overall it works very well. The base settles into cedar, sandalwood, and oakmoss, which remain the holy trinity of “serious gentleman smell”. The musk in the base notes does have a little bit of 1990s laundry soap accord, but it doesn’t really carry the sense of dial-up internet or frosted tips. If it is now finally time for the 90s to start feeling “classic” more than “vintage”, this note could be one of the first in that catalogue. Mostly though, it’s woody in a way that suggests desks with brass fittings and leather-bound books, but for someone who is also at home outdoors getting dirty. There is nothing stuffy about this scent. This is nature filtered through the lens of someone who can hike without a trail, clean the battery contacts on an old Land Rover with a can of soda, make tea in the bush, and then wash up, put on a linen shirt, and arrive for a nice dinner with a flattering natural suntan. The performance is thoroughly appropriate. It is present but never pushy, and lasts just long enough to get you through lunch without requiring a refresher. It projects with a volume that works well for indoors and close quarters, or catching a whiff on the breeze outside. Overall, it’s a good fragrance for those who value discretion over projection, and those who want to smell like a summery gentleman rather than a lifestyle brand.

THE BEST LEMON FRAGRANCE? After wearing more than half of my big bottle, I decided today to test my vintage Eau de Rochas pour Homme. OPENING: Strong zesty Lemon-Bergamot-Lime-Verbena loveable explosion with noticeable aldehydes. One of the best citrusy opening I have ever experienced. DRY DOWN: Still a citrusy ambiance but with a stronger Vetiver and Moss domination. It is a magnific fresh EDT! The fragrance only consists of various lemon accords (or citrus fruits) and basil, but these ingredients are perfectly balanced. So that you smell a tart, fresh and masculine lemon. What a triumph! One of the most authentic fragrances I know. And for little money for the recent reformulation still available. There are two different formulations. The box of the vintage bottle says "Eau de Rochas pour Homme", while the new one says "Eau de Rochas Homme" and it has a silver cap. The older version had natural oak moss, a less strong citrus note and a warmer heart (herbs, myrhh?, hard to say). The new formulation emphasizes the citrus note and goes silvery into the somewhat weaker heart with a weaker base. The effect is more similar to Aventus, but smarter and less vulgar. Both versions are fantastic, and above average to average performance for this type of fresh fragrance. If you happen to have access to both versions, I add a bit more info (the notes) for you to better evaluate them; Eau de Rochas pour Homme (1993) - Top notes: aldehydes, basil, bergamot, lime, mandarin, lemon, lemon verbena - Heart notes: freesia, carnation, jasmine, coriander, lily of the valley, rose, violet - Base notes: amber, oakmoss, musk, vetiver, cedar Eau de Rochas Homme (2015) - Top notes: bergamot, lemon, lime, mandarin . Heart notes: coriander, basil, pine, mugwort - Base notes: amber, musk, oakmoss, vetiver, cedar Let us see what the maths tell us about this EDT: ___ ___ ___ ___ - Scent opening: 9.5 (Intense citrusy freshness; a real fresh experience) - Scent dry down: 7.5 (within of what's expected from a fresh scent) - Longevity: 7.5 (average for the existing notes) - Sillage: 6.5 (average for the existing notes) - Uniqueness: 8.0 (Many similar citrusy fragrances although this one is superior to most of them) - Wearability: 7.0 (Mild to hot weather only and during the day) - Versatility: 7.5 (sports, office, leisure, beach, picnics, barbecues... very versatile in all day activities) - Quality: 8.5 (my judgement) - Presentation: 8.5 (nice bottle, not tacky; good sprayer) - Price: 8.5 (100 ml for $25.00 + VAT for the current formulation) ___ ___ ___ ___ - Overall rating for this fragrance: 7.88/10.00 MY OPINION: Highly recommendable for citrusy fresh scents lovers. Freshie lovers may well go for a blind purchase. Music: "The Air That I Breathe" - Song by The Hollies

Eau de Rochas Homme and the rest of the Rochas line have somehow evaded me through the years. Despite being widely available online at excellent prices, they rarely seem to grace the shelves of the major boutiques. Recently, I found myself craving a citrus: the paragon of carefree, beautiful scents. When properly executed, a citrus fragrance becomes a companion for life, ideally serving as the anchor for a full kit of delightful necessities: soaps, shampoos, and deodorants. Good citrus fragrances are notoriously difficult to find; great ones are even scarcer. Much like chess, the genre is easy to learn but exceptionally difficult to play well. I’ve never cared for the countless "ozonic" clean scents that lean on aggressive wood-ambers and musks. Similarly, I struggle with traditional Colognes; even the greats (like the discontinued Institut Très Bien trio) barely survive two hours. Then there are the "cheats", masterpieces like Chanel Pour Monsieur or Monsieur de Givenchy which are actually Chypres using a mouthwatering citrus opening as window dressing for a mossy, woody drydown. To my mind, the only genuine citrus fragrances that endure without becoming loud or vanishing entirely have been the masterful Eau de Guerlain (perhaps the greatest ever) and Hermès Concentré d’Orange Verte. These are far more than colognes; they are proper, full compositions. I am thrilled to say that Eau de Rochas Homme now joins this sacred band. It is the most wonderful "proper" citrus I have worn in years. It opens with a bold, rich blast of high-quality citrus verbena and transitions seamlessly into an exquisite woody-green drydown. It captures that specific, carefree beauty that feels both timeless and pure. My only regret is that I didn't opt for the 200ml bottle immediately. I’ve been wearing it so fanatically that I’ll need the extra volume soon. Plus, that sculpted bottle is simply gorgeous.

Fresh, summer citrus done right. An initial blast of lemon-heavy citrus hits you with a sunny burst. A few minutes later, as the citrus recedes a bit in intensity, I get fresh green as verbena and basil make an appearance. Settles into a floral heart before the oakmoss and vetiver pop through in the blend. I also get a note of something that reminds me bit of ginger, but I suspect it's the coriander seed mixing with those bright citrus notes. I get no amber, and very little, if any, of the darker florals (rose, carnation, violet), mostly freesia and lily. Kudos to Nicolas Mamounas for adding jasmine to this with such subtlety, rather than the usual cloying, headache-inducing sweetness. Everything about this says light, airy, some may even say watery, though it doesn't have much in the way of traditional aquatic notes, it does have a bit of an oceanic, beach breeze vibe as well. One of the things that I love most about this (besides the mystifyingly cheap price) is its surprising similarity to Tom Ford's Grey Vetiver. I haven't seen anyone else mention that, so maybe it's just me. This is a little heavier on the citrus, but both have very prominent lemon and vetiver notes. Grey Vetiver is the superior performer, but at this price, don't hesitate to spritz a midday refresher if you need to. Longevity: 7/10 (4-5 hours, not great, not terrible) Sillage: 7/10 (Soft to moderate) Versatility: 9/10 (Can be sporty, casual, or even business casual/semi formal, dress it up or dress it down) Value: 10/10 ($20-$25 for 100 mL) Scent: 10/10 (One of the best in my collection) Overall: 10/10 Bottom line: Bright, summery, refined, elegant, well-blended, and a must-have for every collection. And at this price (mine was 100 mL/3.4 oz for around $20), there's no reason not to add it to your collection. I'm very pleased that after 25 years, this is still available!