Tocade

(Long review; skip if not interested in the seriousness of perfumery. Thank you.) "At the time it appeared, in the nineties of the twentieth century, Tocade was anything but trendy. After the powerhouse perfumes that reigned in the eighties, like Opium and Kouros, the perfume audience wanted a fragrant detox. Intense and penetrating aromatic notes of white flowers and notes of animal origin were set aside. The leading role was given to hesperidic notes as well as refreshing marine notes. The superheroes of everyday life became CK One and Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey, and cult perfumes, regardless of quality, as was the case with Thierry Mugler Angel, took years to break through the citrusy cloud that loomed over the world’s métropoles. It can be said that the moment for the launch of Tocade was not the most fortunate. Chanel Egoiste, an equally high-quality and noteworthy perfume, which has never received its recognition precisely because of the trends, has experienced a somewhat similar fate. " (scenterteiner) Tocade beats a few of these mentioned at the top. It definitely does. In my opinion, even Egoiste, for example. Out of many reasons, this scent is one of the best perfumes of the nineties and further. Not one from modern perfumes can stand next to Tocade confidentiality in one single aspect and feel unprovoked. The first aspect is composition, which I will crack on and evaluate. The second is part that I could call spirituality between a female and a perfume. The last aspect is comparison to mastery of others and, of course, the expression. How the fragrance is presented, named, bottled... Perfumes mentioned above are extremely boring and stomach-turning, like CK one. And very interesting ones, like Kouros and We have one masterpiece mentioned Opium. One of the gods of perfumery. "Tocade appeared in 1994. Few people know that it is Tocade who, by combining perfectly two titanic forces – rose and vanilla, inspired many other niches and designer perfumes to do the same. It is debatable how successful they were in that, since the power of vanilla and rose cannot be easily controlled, and the result is often fatal for the people around those who wear such perfumes. This is not the case with the masterpiece made by Maurice Roucel, because Tocade envelops the lady who wears it with a heavenly fragrant cloud, vibrant, delicious and enchanting." (scentertainer) Well! It was and is very successful. In my nose, it's a historical marriage between, definitely not Bulgarian rose and vanilla. That's the reason it is so fatal. Rose captured in Tocade is layered. I will mention this many times. I am a Gardener. In my garden. I have many many roses. I collect the old forgotten ones. I adore to smell them. They ALL smell different. Here in Tocade, the rose captured is synthetic, but it is so well extracted and chemically preserved! You can dig yourself into very rich, a bit milky, creamy bread, deep, green, yellow, blood, orange blossom, rose and chocolate smell! That's how rose captured here smells. The vanilla used is very well blended; it's not artificial at all. And two of these in this fragrance are fitting. Match made in the garden of Hisperides. I didn't want to go into this part of the composition as the opening but It's OK. I don't care. I am writing this out of my mind, without particular order and also as a challenge to respond to serious opinions. That ones I respect. Even if negative. So... it's actually somewhat difficult to separate these notes. The rose and vanilla are tightly interwoven into an olfactory chord, like one of those couples who speak in unison and finish each other's sentences. Tocade is unique. Tocade is recognisable. Tocade knives into your memory. Tocade is not for everyone. Tocade is eccentric. Imagine femininity joined with profound style. Imagine someone who can join what at first glance is not possible and stay sophisticated and confident to the point. I mean, the bottle itself with that little red hat presents it very well. Tocade is that person that the majority dislikes because they can't be Tocado. Simple as that. This is a fragrance that stands out and makes others jealous. Every single time. Believe me. This mad elixir can make ANY fragrance totally jealous. And it doesn't care a bit. Go ahead. Enter the good perfumery and check around. Smell many. Look at them. Tocade will get your attention for sure. You WILL smell it. And the weak ones will run away. And never touch it again. And memories of it forever. The serious eccentric souls will detox themselves with this wonderful madam. This fragrance has its soul and life. It can time travel. It can die and live. It's a witch fragrance. So there you go little girls. Geranium hates you. It's telling you to stay away. You are snails, serious ladies of crazy turbulence are geranium. Yep. Slugs and snails eat almost all flowers. They hate Geranium. While Geranium is a majestic flower. Very very unique. Tocade incorporates the most important for me to pass the test of being worthy and being a feminine fragrance. This is the ultimate female perfume. It connects females to soil and water. On the skin, you can't control it. It flushes you out. It sinks only on the ones that it likes. But what it does after is simply magic. Unbelievable. It wraps itself around your body no matter where you spray it. It goes up and down, checking your strength. Before taking you into the underworld of knowing yourself and directly disliking others. Because this scent tells you who it will keep away from you. With a reason. This is spiritual perfume. Like witch elixir of protection. "Tocade achieves warmth, class, and a streamlined complexity that speaks of Maurice Roucel’s ability to bring classic structures into the modern era most playfully and exuberantly." (cafleurebron) Let's see what Maurice Roucel completed here. Remember that Maurice Roucel, who has always been very good at making complicated, orchestral perfumes in the full, top-to-bottom style (Hermès 24 Faubourg, Guerlain Insolence, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist among others...) Top notes: Bergamot, Freesia, Magnolia; It doesn't open with these trees or one of them. It opens with aldehydes. Musky, hairspray, vintage herbal, slightly walnut leaves aldehydes! Absolut mastery. Did you ever smell walnut leaves? That's one of the most beautiful things you can smell. It's one of the reasons why I adore this perfume. The aldehydes bursts contains that. Powerful. Witchy. Now go ahead and mix to the perfection Bergamot, Freesia and Magnolia. Two very powerful and unique flowers and a magnificent Bergamot. Who gets these ideas? It's crazy. Bergamot, in general, loves blending with Cypress, Sandalwood, Juniperberry, Coriander, Black Pepper, Ginger, Clary Sage, Rosemary and Frankincense. It has a unique, fresh, bitter and complex smell. The scent of bergamot is a perfume in itself. This one here will last till the end but not in the citrus way. That's the magic of Bergamot. Freesia. That strawberry freshness is like forest water mixed with forest strawberry leaves! To recreate the intoxicating odour of freesia, perfumers often incorporate floral notes such as jasmine, rose, and lily of the valley. These floral accords add a touch of elegance and freshness to the fragrance. Additionally, fruity accords like bergamot or citrus can be used to enhance the vibrant and zesty character of freesia. Finally, subtle green or aquatic accords may be included to recreate the dewy and ethereal quality of freesia petals. The careful orchestration of these olfactory accords allows perfumers to capture the captivating essence of freesia and create fragrances that evoke its beauty and charm. Freesia accords often showcase the flower's sweet and intoxicating smell, reminiscent of a bouquet of blossoms in full bloom. Magnolia. A plant that abounds in subtle, delicate scents. Magnolia fragrances are often described as fresh, floral and slightly sweet, with notes of bergamot, jasmine and Rose. Both are from two very strong flowers tops other. Wonderful opening. Complex itself. OF COURSE, it doesn't end with that complexity. Middle notes: iris, jasmine, lily of the valley, orchid, rose, geranium; Let's dedicate more time to this part. Because this whole part will lie down on the top, not opposite and make you as the person carrying this scent unforgettable. Yes, all these components are very powerful and complex but I will stick to just one. This time. Géranium. Because this flower makes this perfume. It's not a rose, no matter how great the rose is in this composition. So let's check Geranium deeply. "The geranium is a term used to designate a wide variety of herbaceous and perennial plants. Its name comes from the Greek "geranos", meaning "stork", about the particular shape of its fruits. The geranium is native to South Africa. Its history began in 1678, when a Dutch botanist, Paul Hermann, picked a few plants and brought them home. 10 years later, he noticed that they had adapted very well to the Dutch climate. From then on, geranium became the object of intense curiosity, first in England and then throughout Europe. Geranium offers a distinctive and characteristic olfactory profile. Its fragrance is often described as fresh, green and slightly lemony. The dominant notes are floral, reminiscent of rose and carnation blossom, with a touch of freshly cut herbs. Some geraniums may have fruity nuances, evoking apple or lemon scents. Overall, the scent of geranium is both gentle and energizing, bringing a sense of freshness and vitality to a scented composition. Its pleasant, distinctive scent makes it a valuable ingredient in the perfume industry, adding a distinct, elegant floral note to fragrant compositions.Geranium fragrance is widely used in perfumery to create fresh, floral compositions. Its essential oils bring sweet, floral and slightly lemony notes, adding elegance and freshness to fragrances. It is a precious ingredient appreciated for its distinctive olfactory profile. Geranium is an integral part of the ferny notes in perfume. As such, its scent blends wonderfully with woody and chypre fragrances. It is often blended with cedarwood, vetiver and amber. Patchouli and fern moss are often combined with geranium in masculine compositions, adding a touch of elegant seduction. Geranium is one of the most beautiful and most despised scents in general. There is no middle. Either you love it or totally hate it. See, the same is with special people. You love them or hate them. Float this geranium between iris, jasmine, lily of the valley, orchid, rose... Because that is what you have here. Add also freesia and magnolia! Can you stand it? Not many people can. I didn't smell this scent on anyone except me, last around 15 years. I don't wonder. It puts fear into people as it should. It has great silage. Refolmulation is of course not great as original yet still something to buy and wear. IF you can get version from 1994 buy it! Let's continue... Middle notes are so strictly blended that you can't smell them out. If you think this is rose / vanilla scent sorry. You are wrong. This is ultimate love/hate perfume. You will love it or hate it. Like people love or hate special people. There is no middle way with Tocade. Base notes: amber, musk, patchouli, vanilla, cedar... Middle notes call for the amber. Musk, together with the dark patchouli and (here we go vanilla), spiced with cedar and green notes makes wonderful pillow for this scent to sleep. YES. You can sleep with this scent and scent itself sleeps on you. But not when you want. Maurice Roucel, I suggest his other perfumes also, took idea of combining a floral with a vanilla and used it again in Guerlain Insolence, but in the latter he used violet instead of rose, amped up the vanilla, made it more vulgar and added a hairspray top note. Here present as Top noté ! Aldehydes. Tocade reminds of Royal Bain de Caron, but leaves out the soapiness and the lilac. There is certain soapiness but it is verveine like. More like Shalimar. While Tocade‘s drydown is considerably more vanillic than the rest of its development, but even so it’s not cake or candyfloss. But be very sure it is not just vanilla and rose. Ohh no. Geranium. Wearing on the clothes is very good for this scent. Hair also. Bottle, designed by Serge Mansau. He died in 2019. Not many from fashion world of fakery give attention to his death. Did we get any nice documentary? Did they ever give him more chance so he could talk to us how he works? No. While he stands behind many many eternally sculptured fragrance bottles. "All along his 50 years of career, Serge Mansau never lost his desire of innovating and upsetting the world of perfumery. As a matter of fact, Anne-Caroline Prazan, International Marketing Director Perfume and Artistic director Maison Guerlain 68 told me “He knew how to challenge the a priori and the rules of the perfumery world.” First of all, he was inhabited with his passion for the shape and the emptiness of the flacon, but also had a great intuition."(premiumbeauty) The geranium protects against snakes, for: “Snakes will not go / Where geraniums grow.” A plot of red geraniums, planted near the Witch’s cottage, told of coming visitors by their movements. The flowers were magically charged to point to the direction of the approaching strangers and thus warn the Witch of their impending arrival. Do you understand now? Geranium.

Tocade is not so much a perfume as it is an aura, a sort of portable atmosphere that hovers around the wearer at about 5-6 inches away from the skin, especially during the first couple of hours of wear. It took some getting used to. I even thought for a while there might be something wrong with my bottle, because it seemed like I could barely smell it. Then I realized it was *everywhere*, all around me, and only hours later it began to settle in close to my skin. This came as quite a shock, because from Tocade’s reputation and the reviews I had read, I was expecting a big rose/amber affair in the tradition of the old school grande dames that feel like a brocade ball gown or a heavy silk caftan, the sort of thing made for lounging around with heavy lids and maybe an opium pipe or at least one of those old fashioned hash pipes that the movies always confuse with opium pipes (in case you want to know which is which, watch Once Upon a Time in the West or The Lover—those pipes that have the large cylindrical attachment on the end, that have the flame of the lamp applied only to the side of the pipe, and seem to require quite a bit of puffing—you never actually burn real opium the same way you do hash materials. Hash pipes look like look like traditional tobacco pipes, only with really long stems and little tiny bowls. Sorry if this seems pendantic, but (1) it matters for lots of reasons, and (2) I’m a historian). Anyway—despite the regal materials in Tocade’s composition, rose and amber are not the whole story. It’s as light on its feet and as graceful in its carriage as Ginger Rogers—yes, backwards and in heels—and it seems to swirl around in lighthearted wisps with no particular gravitational pull. I can never smell it directly, nose to skin, until at least eight hours in, when it’s at its softest and most pillowy stage. I think it’s the powder, which is every bit as comforting as boudoirish as Lorenzo Villoresi’s Teint de Neige, and I sometimes think I even smell a little heliotrope, but it’s probably just because I have such strong associations of heliotrope with rose, vanilla, iris, and powdery musk. The rest of the perfume is mostly a springy bouquet is mostly there singing backup harmony, a chorus of mezzosoprano voices that contribute to the perfume’s overall lightness. I don’t really pick out any freesia, which is mercy, as freesia is one of the few florals that I don’t have a loving and comfortable relationship with, probably because I have too many associations with it and 1970s shampoo (I love 70s shampoo, but—excuse pardon the metaphor—I can’t disentangle the memory enough to consider the scent worth the price of perfume. I’m working on it). Maurice Roucel’s signature waxy magnolia is also present, languid as ever, but like the other grand elements herein, it’s relaxed without being aggressively so. I feel like the perfume wants us—me, whoever wears it and whoever smells it—to chill out and take things as they come. It’s a perfume for spring and summer, especially evenings, when the weather is turning warm, the fireflies are starting to appear where I live, and soon the afternoon and evening air will be filled with the chants of locusts and the warbles of frogs. Even the perfume’s densest elements, the patchouli and amber, don’t really have their usual Oriental formality in this context. They’re too weightless and soft around the edges, too romantic and zaftig. The powder and vanilla never let them take themselves too seriously, so what I get from them are their more comforting and warming qualities—the chocolate and gentle spice of patchouli, and the sweet creaturely comfort of amber. This perfume is for evenings with the windows open, Chopin in his less fussy moods, Debussy, downtempo and ambient music, silk chiffon, layered tulle, soft slippers, and curling up with my lazy and slightly pudgy cream-colored Siberian cat, whose purr makes my entire bed vibrate. She keeps my feet warm while I fall asleep listening to my favorite Roman history podcasts (if you want to know, I’ll send you a link. They’re really good bedtime listening). That’s my Tocade. So I just can’t take Tocade that seriously. I know it intimidates some people, and believe me, I was prepared to be intimidated. I have plenty of perfumes that do that, and need them for those times when I want a boss bitch in my life, a dominatrix, a shot of confidence, of I’m just feeling like a badass. But this glorious powder bomb isn’t one of those. Spring is here, and when I’m not wearing my exhilarating chilly greens and polleny yellow florals, my middle-aged lady’s fancy is lightly turning to thoughts of Tocade. Especially as I wind down with Livy and my beloved Lulushka-kitty (I don’t speak Russian so I hope I’m not bastardizing anyone’s language. Pedantize away) at my feet. Maybe you’re already familiar with the cozier side of To are, but maybe you’re not—and if you’re not, one of the great things about perfume is how your perceptions can change completely from one wearing to the next. The next time you wear Tocade, try it my way. You might see it in a whole new light.

I read "Perfumes: The Guide", by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez this week. Bought a supposedly used hardback copy on eBay Uk for £2.80 (free P&P). I find myself strongly disagreeing with LT on his assessments of Flowerbomb, JPG Classique (although I have Intense, not the original) - both of which I like - and Dior Addict EDP (which I love). I cannot tolerate Mitsouko, despite feeling that I really should, given its reputation. Anyhow, I blind bought 100mls Tocade on the strength of Luca Turin's rapturous review (and the other numerous positive ones here). The version I bought was packaged in a completely red box; the bottle looks the same as the one pictured above - and the ghastly cap has been deposited in the bin (honestly, this may be the most inappropriate bottle top of any I have seen). I haven't any other samples I can compare it to unfortunately, as I think this would be an interesting exercise. I am disabled and getting to shops is not easy for me, so finding Fragrantica with its predominantly objective reviews by ordinary people has resulted in an orgy of blind-buying perfumes. My first reaction on spraying was: "WOW, this is strong!" - not a bad thing as I favour perfumes I can smell easily. What's the point of wearing something so light that I can't enjoy it? However, the initial blast wears off within five minutes, leaving a delightful sophisticated powdery, creamy rose scent, underpinned by a non-sweet vanilla and spices from the cedar and amber. I have no idea on the longevity yet - I'll have a good sniff when I wake up in the morning and will update properly then. This does not smell "modern" to me at all - this is not intended as a criticism of modern fragrances - this smells timeless. Gorgeous, gorgeous perfume, which is going to be a "love" vote. Update: Tocade is still smelling delightful six hours after spraying on skin - although my feeling is that the sillage is now pretty much soft, rather than moderate. I can smell it more easily on clothing, though. It doesn't seem to have evolved any more overnight. To me at least, it remains the glorious creamy rose scent I smelled last night - and I am very happy with that. This was a very good blind buy for me. Thank you, Fragranticans (and Mr Turin, of course). UPDATE: Tocade can still be smelled on my pyjama top 36 hours after the initial spray. Longevity on clothing is outstanding.

Being the vanilla freak I am, I had to have this. Unlike so many others who think the bottle is cute and whimsical, I hate it. I am guessing the bottle suggests a fashionista wearing a red hat but have no clue. I don't get it, but that has nothing to do with the juice inside except causing me to procrastinate buying it. Now that I have smelled it the bottle seems more unfitting than ever. I see many name this as strong. Hmm.. Also being a great lover of whopping sweet, spicy heavy hitters, at first spritz I found Tocade rather meh; weak and soft but sensed potential. My first try reminded me of my beloved Chopard Casmir; a deep, dark, buttered rummy vanilla, sinfully sweet, and I made the mistake of comparing the two using both wrists. It made me not like Tocade in comparison, but I knew there was something I loved about this stuff in the silly, tacky-wacky bottle so washed CC off to fairly judge it only for what it is; uniquely on its own merit. For me, that turns out to be a mild to mid strength ambery vanilla cream bomb exploded with love onto a fresh rose, then sprinkled with a bit of silver screen non-musty glam boudoir powder. At first, off-putting synthetic, but give it only a few to warm to the skin and Tocade becomes a real Boozy Floozy! ("Well hello Ma'am." "That's MISSez to you, Dahling. Come to me.") A rather gentle, classy, classically simple but spell-binding scent, Tocade is the one who looks like the innocent goody two-shoes wallflower who is (maybe?) anything BUT.. and that factor is precisely the mysterious 'it' in this masterpiece that makes me love this fragrance. I cannot think of a wrong time to wear Tocade. Ever. My CC will kill in the heat so this is My New Summer Vanilla Love, though longevity is minimal on my skin. I can detect no other notes than what I stated - a very vanilla rose with a hint of powder. She is at once sweet, simple, elegant, refined, exquisite, a prom queen, a true queen, conservative Sunday school teacher, a bride, a gypsy, a starlet, a hippy, anything she wants to be... with the potential to tear your clothes off and tie you to the bedposts. Miz Van Rose Tocade is a girl/woman to be wary of. I think I get the bottle now. Appearances can be very deceiving. ;) Rochas Rules.

I've not tested newer version of rochas tocade so I can't compare it with my vintage edt The vintage one,is sweet,warm,powdery, a tad spicy and strong,definitely a classic,but an adorable one..also a wearable one,but only if you can get along with strong scents Dominant notes are vanilla,amber,rose and lots of powdery iris and orchid.. It opens with lots of alcohol and sharpness,so don't smell it for two minutes after initial spray,after two minutes alcohol fades and all sharpness is rounded with a warm,sweet rosey vanilla,some soft powder blended with a spicy amber,It's elegant,feminine,sensual,lovely,delicious,sophisticated,delightful ..deep and sexy Longevity and sillage are both great, don't overspray because it can ruin all it's beauty One of my favorites for ever This is a masterpiece ❤ ❤ ❤ ❤ ❤ روشاس توکاد (ادوتویلت وینتیج) شروع الکلی و تیزی داره در نتیجه بهتره یکی دو دقیقه بعد از اسپری کردن بو کنیدش،بعد از دودقیقه،الکل اون محو میشه و تیزی رایحه با وانیل رزی گرم و شیرین،کاملا احاطه میشه..علاوه بر ترکیبی از رز و وانیل،رایحه لطیف پودری آمیخته با امبر اسپایسی،تشکیل دهنده رایحه کلی و غالب توکاد هستن کاملا مشخصه که با یه عطر کلاسیک طرف هستید اما به هیچ عنوان دمده نیست و کاملا تو دنیای مدرن قابل استفاده ست عطری بالغ،جذاب،کاملا زنانه،خوشمزه، سکسی،دلنشین،عمیق و شاد هست ماندگاری و پخش عالی داره و به هیچ وجه زیاده از حد اسپریش نکنید چون میتونه زیبایی عطر رو از بین ببره اگه ترکیبی کاملا زنانه و جذاب و شیرین نیمه گورماند از وانیل و رز و روایح پودری غیر صابونی حاصل از کمی زنبق و ارکیده و همچنین کمی امبر اسپایسی و گرم رو می پسندید و مشکلی با عطرهای قوی و پررنگ و لعاب ندارید،این شاهکار کلاسیک رو از دست ندید