Vera Violetta

This is a review of a vintage bottle produced sometime between the 1890s and 1910. The perfume opens with an unexpected burst of what smells like ylang yang extra oil, though I am not sure if this tropical top accord was intentional or just a product of damage to the top notes over time. The scent profile then slowly morphs into a very realistic violet soliflore over the course of 30 minutes and remains relatively the same for several hours. Overall, it is an enjoyable and highly realistic violet composition. However it lacks enough complexity to make it stand out as a classic. This perfume is more important as a landmark in the history of perfumery as it was the first widely sold scent to utilize isolated alpha and beta ionone molecules to create a violet accord.

This review is for a vintage late 19th c. bottle of extrait ("essence"), just as above, still sealed and 95% full. A small amount wicked out onto the ribbon during transit and I can smell the scent perfectly. The moist label has a slight wet paper/light mold note, which I can avoid by smelling the back of the bottle. Sadly I cannot try this on skin, as the bottle is tightly sealed, likely for 100 years or more. Incense and Violets are an unusual combination, but this resinous violet is incomparable. Perhaps this is a bastardization of the Ylang note mentioned by Fitzgerald & Guislain in their review. As they mentioned, this is an iconic fragrance given its status as the first commericial use of violet flower-scented alpha and beta ionones, here blended with natural Violet Leaf oil, and anchored by either musk and/or ambergris and possibly labdanum. I would wear this, for certain, if I dared break the seal....

A very classic, linear violet, with quite a lot of assistance from alpha isomethyl ionone. No orris to help it along or increase longevity or depth. It's a lovely violet, not too candylike, not too chalky, not too earthy. Worth seeking out a decant of to try a piece of perfume history. Lovely if you enjoy violets.