Derviche

Derviche isn’t particularly complicated and there is a familiarness to it that may make you feel like you smelled it somewhere before. But there is another side to it that is rather remarkable and I can’t quite put my finger on what it is. There is something about this fragrance that smells absolutely perfect. I literally can’t stop sniffing it and couldn’t wait to wake up and wear it again. It’s a gently sweetened oriental amber, with a lot of bergamot (particularly in the opening), vanilla, labdanum, civet, musk, ambergris and one of the most glorious indolic jasmines I’ve ever put my nose on. Together, they make a warm, sensual, silky smooth holy grail level vintage meets niche sweet amber. To me, it’s everything I wanted Ambre Narguile to be. I almost liked AN, but found it too cloying and apple pie like. Derviche reminds me of AN without those elements but with a slight vintage style added. “I wanted a rich old-school oriental amber fragrance with a bergamot opening but with the power of many of the fragrances coming from the Arabic perfume houses. I first developed a labdanum-rich amber base to build the fragrance around and then set out to experiment with the “power” behind it. This involved weeks of tweeking ratios between different musk and ambergris molecules until I found the balance I sought. I then gave it a heavy dose of the jasmine base I developed for Chypre-Siam. The “antique” mentioned in the fragrance notes is a reference to the older jasmine bases used around the turn of the century. I used cues from these bases in developing my own.” I am so impressed by Manuel’s perfumes I have probably driven him crazy with my messages. I’m really picky. Really, I am. And these perfumes are some of the best I’ve ever smelled. Maybe it’s because my nose matches what his nose smells, not sure, but three of his perfumes (the tuberose one, the chypre and this one) are some of the best perfumes I’ve smelled, and the tuberose/white rose one (Champs Lunaires) is one of the nicest white florals I have EVER smelled. After smelling these I will NEVER look at Etsy perfume the same way again.

I got the oil discovery set. I put this on skin and wow. It is nice. It does have a Civet note in it ,but it is not a big note or hugely animalic. Tom Ford Noir edp is more animalic than this. Andy Tauer Sundowner is also much more animalic than Derviche too. ( One of my favorite scents). It is a very light Civet. I love Derviche. Much more than Chypre-Siam and Tabac Vert. Derviche transports me to the past somehow. Not sure why. Could be the antique Jasmine ,Leather and Tobacco. I did go to many Flea markets as a kid. Something in my childhood i suspect. I would put this as unisex. The drydown does remind me of Tauer Sundowner but much more lightweight after a few hours. Sundowner is much more animalic and beast mode. Still good For context on strength, this is much lighter than Tauer Sundowner, Les Indemodables Vanille Havane,Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, PDM Herod,John Varvatos Dark Rebel Rider etc. Definitely for all weather and occasions. There are some florals here too. The Florals soften things up a bit. If you were looking for an animalic Civet here then I am afraid this is not it. I still like this scent but not for any of the Civet. More for the composition as a whole. Derviche is a good entrance into SOME aspects of Animalics. Very lightweight beginning and end. This will not scare you at all. Unlike Bortnikoff, Areej Le dore or Anonim. Start your journey here. What's next after Derviche? Try Zoologist Moth. Another entrance into Animalics that are lighter. Far less sweet than Derviche. More powdery and smoky though over Derviche.

Manuel Cross has a knack for choosing some wonderful names for his scents, just downright old-school classy and luxurious, rather than ‘haha’ quirky, which work so well with the nostalgic typography on his bottle labels - quite a feat when one considers the DIY levels of production of his brand. Derviche has got to be one of the most beautiful appellations for a Middle Eastern-inspired Oriental, the euphoric headiness of precious woods melding with a nimbus of apple-flavoured shisha smoke. There may be a strong resemblance to Ambre Narguile - for all of five minutes, but from there on Ambre Narguile diverges into a slightly deeper, possibly more complex territory, though not necessarily more beautiful. To me Ambre Narguile starts to resemble baked Christmas goodies, along with that dense, almost chewy sensation of ginger bread and for some reason just bread in general - it’s strangely yeasty. Derviche, meanwhile, never for a moment abandons its Turkish roots; it is a distinctly Arabic confectionery house, turning out far lighter treats: crisp baklava and pillowy Turkish delight galore, sprinkled with almonds and nuts, drenched in syrupy orange flower water. If there is such a thing, it might be a gourmand-oriental. In terms of how it shifts on my skin, it works very much like Shalimar - The citrus and civet contribute a virile punchy opening, before the lush legato of the boozy vanilla comes sweeping in, producing, to me at least, the most beautiful part of the experience, a bit like the famous Der Rosenkavalier overture.

I became introduced to this house for one reason, I wanted retro fragrance with a modern edge that used real non IFRA approved Oakmoss like the ones I grew up with. While I have ventured deeper into this house through purchase of the Rogue Sampler set (15 count) I discovered that I had been very shallow in my aspirations with Rogue . Long story short I ended up buying Derviche which contains absolutely no Oakmoss but contained Amber, Tobacco and Leather amongst the flowery/fruity notes. The last fragrance I need in my collection is one connected with Tobacco or Leather as probably more than half my entire rather large fragrance wardrobe consists of fragrances with these notes. However , in spite of the Tom Ford's, Parfum de Marly's , Xerjoff's and the many other quality fragrances with Leather, Amber and Tobacco I found this one to be very unique and alluring with the indolic antique jasmine,the cherry like leather opening, the vanilla, labdanum and musk set this one apart and I was captured by it. I went from roll on sample to a 75ml bottle I liked it so much. What I do not get from this one is the Civet and I do know Civet as I have a few fragrances with it. It is just not there, not on my skin, not to my nose. Puzzled. Derviche' has absolutely nuclear performance and range so one spray or you will be consumed by the fragrance. You have been warned.

Oh, yes, this is more like it! Nice work, Manuel. A warming, alcoholic crème brûlée (creamy vanilla, burnt sugar) but made with nitromusks for extra oomph. Dee-licious. There's a clarity about its cosiness though. It is never cloying or sickening - it's perfectly balanced...like a Guerlain! Perfect for romantic close encounters and for loving. It starts with a battle between the sharp bergamot, jasmine and some delicious nitromusks. (I do solemnly declare that nitromusks are some of the best things I've ever smelled.) I can fully appreciate why so many fragheads are annoyed at IFRA. They are utterly heavenly - bright and shiny and elevate it all to another level. Then the musks, vanilla, and the tobacco/cinnamon combo all pull in different directions, but it's one that contrasts and works. Once it dries down, it coalesces into the most heavenly concoction - the Holy Trinity of perfumes - heavy with milky lactones with a coconutty or roasted hazelnut accord and a light dusting of cinnamon. Towards the end, there are hints of body odour but it's the good kind - the new, spicy underarm sweat of a lover rather than week-old unwashed clothes. Thank you very much, Mr Rogue Perfumes.

I absolutely love Rogue Perfumery, and Manuel Cross is a rising star in the indie world of perfume. Today I’m wearing Derviche, and I’m always a little excited when I get to wear something new from Rogue. Derviche is a wearable middle eastern inspired perfume, a sweet cherry tobacco scent that does remind me of Olfactive Studio’s Close Up, which I own— but only in the opening, which by the way, is a little challenging. The medicinal urine-like note starts off quite strong with nose pressed to skin. But over the course of 20 minutes it fades and other notes jockey for position. Derviche has a defined civet note, that at times also smells like dirty fur, and coupled with musk and olibanum over a luminous amber base. I know this sounds weird, but I ended up smitten. Completely addictive. The longer I wore it, the better it got. In fact in the time that it has taken me to write this review, I’m wanting it. I need to have it, I like it better than Close Up. Derviche is more interesting and has more depth. I can’t explain it other than thinking this one is yummy. Not in a gourmand way, but in a sexy way. I need to wear this again in colder weather, but I think I love it.

Exquisite; a completely satisfying, full-bodied diva of a perfume. I get a citric blast of bergamot before a labdanum and tobacco-infused frankincense rises up in a molecular dance so utterly fabulous I sigh with pleasure every time I smell it. The vanillic-jasmine heart seals the deal, but, then, I adore Rogue's Antique Jasmin so of course I'm going to feel this way about Derviche. This is my 3rd wearing of Derviche and I'm at that stage where I'm prepared to bankroll my acquisitive lunacy, no matter the cost. Impossible to buy it in Australia (out of stock at LKNU, the only place selling Rogue) and Rogue doesn't ship to Australia. I've ended up paying a small fortune in international shipping from Luckyscent, the only place who have it and are willing to send it to me. Woe to those of us who love perfume! Blessed with sensitivity, curiosity and appreciation; cursed with an apparantly unassuagable desire... Distillation: full-bodied Diva dance of incense and jasmine sending me bankrupt

By an odd coincidence, yesterday I was enjoying a sample of Chergui by Serge Lutens for the first time, and I really greatly liked its sweet cherry tobacco-vanilla accord; but though I enjoyed it tremendously, and thought Serge Lutens did a find job blending the notes, it did not knock my socks off. Then after I had washed it off, I tried a sample of Derviche, which was so similar in its composition--it also smells of cherry, tobacco, and vanilla--, but it just blew me away. I kept sniffing my wrists the whole evening. This was more exciting, and somehow more special. I would wear this just to please myself because it smells so beautiful. I don't know how Manuel Cross keeps doing it, but he really has talent as well as incredible knowhow. As usual, this thing projects like nobody's business, so be careful how much you use--but the plus side of that is that you can really get more bang out of this that many other fragrances (including Chergui, which isn't the powerhouse this is).

Derviche has become one of my favorite perfumes year round, although I think it does especially well in cooler weather. The first sniff is somewhat medicinal, but this soon gives way to an rich amber, moderately sweet, with a beguiling touch of civet. The jasmine and the sandalwood are heavenly! They stand out for me beyond the vanilla and labdanum at times, in a prismatic sort of way, which I love. The musks add just the right touch. The incense isn't too prominent for me. A little goes a long way too, two modest sprays will easily last all day for me, with an arm's length sillage. Sweet perfumes generally aren't my thing, but here the sweetness isn't cloying, it's more like a hint of brown sugar. The overall effect is just delightful, and like some other reviewers here, it gets better the longer I wear it. I highly recommend Derviche if you like ambers, and want to try something out of the ordinary.

This was the fragrance that came home to the UK with me after I made my pilgrimage to the Lucky Scent Scent Bar in NYC a couple of weeks ago. It was love at first sniff, they did such an excellent job at picking out something for me to try that I would struggle to find at home, and suited my tastes. At first spray this is boozy, animalic (civet of the best possible kind), rich, oozing amber and saffron and deliciousness. Reminds me of both Veni by Histoires de Parfums and Tiger By Her Side by Sana Jardin in the opening, but somehow it's better than both (and I adore both). Tobacco, labdanum and vanilla are in the base and come forward as it dries down but I don't get much leather. It's stunningly blended and I can barely stop sniffing myself when I'm wearing it (plus I give the bottle a good sniff almost every time I open my perfume cabinet!)

Didn't like this one when I first got a sample a couple years ago, but I love it now. Not sure whether it's the fragrance aging, or me, but I find it beautiful, and it dries down gracefully. Unlike Mousse Illuminée, my true love from this house, it doesn't last forever on the skin. I'm alright with that because it's so enjoyable at every stage. Edit: after wearing this again yesterday it suddenly reminded me of Ambre Narguile, but more complex, less cloying. Came back to the site to see I'm not the only one. I was really enchanted with Ambre Narguile for some time, but I've come to find it too sweet for me a lot of the time. This one is more balanced. Now, after reading these reviews, I need to pull out Tauer LdDM and see how it compares. Update: the Tauer is still way too sharp for me. Totally different kind of fragrance in my opinion.

Interesting journey. I get a sweet fruitiness on initial spray that I don't like very much - there's an evolution through a sweet thick tobacco. But then it opens up into a sort of musky woody vaguely edible vanilla/dried fruit magic. Fruit and spice, powdery - frankincense which isn't even listed here. It's really pretty amazing on long wear and a definite buy for me. I could live in this. EDIT (big bottle now): Okay this is a household favorite... which is saying a lot. My two teen girls have strong opinions and they've declared their love for Derviche. One told me she wants to just "drink that all up" and asks for a spray on her wrist nearly every night. I got a compliment when out tonight. Some kinda wonderful with this frag... Masculine? Um no. Unisex fer shure...

I agree with the comments that this is not a complicated fragrance. But it is beautiful. A bright colorful lavish radiant oriental. This fragrance is dancing, it has a rythme of its own with some notes popping up now and then others coming in front and then again. It is not linear nor does it seem to follow the top to middle to base notes usual pattern. Maybe this is why it’s called Derviche like the spinning Derviches. To me it’s lemon lokoum dancing with saffron, multi-facetted amber some sweet rose even if not mentioned in the notes and all elegantly toned down by a good dose of dense jasmine. Immediate love, beautiful discovery. And their other ones are impressive as well.

First opens upp on a strong combo off saffron and jasmin Sandalwood, Its not subtle att all, the notes are screaming out loud look at me, a tad sour bitterness on the sandal saffron combo is what is persived as cinamon by some ppl here i would imagen, the opening notes calm down and out comes a very pleasing tobaco note that paird w The vanilla and lingering Woods and spices form a soft warm scent add a bit off animalic and you got a real head turner, a true thing off Beuty What is going on in the smells like segment. Pure havann.. Realy.. Pleas ignore this part and The talk about cinamon and this beeing a leather scent, thats smoke and mirrors from the saffron and Sandalwood

Tobacco for the cooler time of the year is one of my favorite notes. I received a sample of this when purchasing one of Rogues other fragrance. It impressed me to buy 30 ml’s. This has your typical old school, civet/Jasmine like opening that will blow you away. It has a punch for a good 30-45 minutes. It then fades away and settles to a sweet, spicy, amber tobacco very similar to Tom Fords Noir Extreme. Listed as unisex, I say it leans more to men. Great performance for my skin as I get 8-10 hrs. I now own 5 fragrances from this house. Manny has figured out the art of perfumes for sure! Outstanding customer service too!

This is no "amber" fragrance by today's standards. For me, the most recognizable accord is the "antique jasmine" from Chypre Siam. You get the same opulent accord that melds together the indolic and animalic notes, but whereas Chypre Siam also packs a lot of punch with spicy and green top notes, Derviche has a more rounded and linear development. Less surprises along the way, but overall, more agreeable to my nose. Although I'm very fond of the opening of Chypre Siam and consider it an olfactory masterpiece, it turns a bit too funky and rubbery on my skin -- I have no such problem with Derviche.

My mother and I both gasped and couldn’t stop smelling this sample. We just kept coming back, lovers of Guerlain that we are. This is the creme de la creme, the gold standard of modern vintage animalics. This is a work of art; austere without posturing, it’s playful in just the right ways. I find the jasmine and saffron really “lift” this almost in an aldehylic way. I was surprised to find no carnation, rose or iris in this but it is achieved with that effect. This is for sure a special occasion frag, it’s a big presence who’s specific about everything. It knows what it wants. Respect!

This is a great fragrance. It opens up pretty weird and smells like i seen someone else say ^ pissy. Must be the Civet note which im super confused as to why they use that lol. But after 10 minutes it smoothes out into this cherry vanilla tobacco that projects beautifully. This is when i said to myself “this reminds me of something ive smelled before”. i later realized this smells very very similar to Mancera Red Tobacco. It smells like a slightly less feminine version, i love it

The most delicious spicy boozy vanilla pipe tobacco! I think it is a very sexy perfume for a man. Unfortunately something about it, maybe the pipe tobacco note or the weight, makes it too masculine on my skin or else this would be in regular rotation in my collection. Good sillage, excellent longevity. Not as complex as Chypre-siam, but does progress through multiple layers keeping it interesting beginning to end.

If you love the tobacco note then this is a must try. It's sweet tobacco with natural vanilla on me. I can't say I get anything very animalic or particularly leather for that matter either. A shame for me as it would have made it more interesting and given more depth. Great sillage in this warm room. Very nice but I have my wonderful Xerjoff Naxos so not a fb candidate. Thankfully!