Ishtar

I had to acquire Ishtar. This smells like absolutely nothing else in my entire collection. On top of that it is so intense, warm and comforting. A gum-resin/incense based fragrance that is completely and unapologetically rich in sappiness, spiciness, sweetness, and soapiness. Just a fantastic honest and powerful offering that I will reserve for the fall, winter and spring. Why will I reserve it for these seasons? Because Ishtar smells like a Yankee Candle store (or any artisanal candle store of your choice). The gum resins in this are so rich that they have a waxy texture to them balanced by a sweet and festive soapiness provided by the sandalwood and lily. It is also incredibly spicy with intense lift and projection. This offering from Rogue Perfumery has a feeling, a temperature, of heat or intense warmth. Sweet potpourri, lit candles, firewood, a lit fireplace, sand, a hot sun beaming on a woodland landscape are the smells I receive from Ishtar. I said Mousse Illuminee reminds me of an environment this reminds me of one as well. A quaint campsite in the middle of fall where spiced tea and hot chocolate are being shared. I also think of sitting on the porch of a cabin watching the sunset from a mountaintop. The scent itself carries an aridness within it however that makes me imagine the sweltering hot landscape of the American West or the African Savanna which is why I believe the juxtaposition of a hot tempered perfume would satisfy in a cool or temperate environment. The only downside with Ishtar is that it has no transition from the initial smell upon application. It is a linear scent profile which could become boring if you're not committed to the scent. It is a realistic and potent resin dominant scent through and through meaning it uses notes commonly found as base notes so expect any transformations or scent transitions to be non-existent throughout your wearing or incredibly slow if you are patient. It starts spicy, soapy, and aromatic like an artisanal candle and remains this way becoming more intense and realistic as it dries-down and mingles with the air around you. I look forward to wearing this in freezing temperatures where I feel the scent will help to warm me up. Ishtar is the name of the Mesopotamian goddess of love, beauty, sex, war, justice and political power which goes perfectly with the intense heat and character that this perfume holds. This scent character carries an arid smokiness that also perfectly resembles some of the environments found in the Middle East. I am transported back to my visit to Turkey walking down the streets with the hot sun beaming and reflecting off of the ancient cobblestone roads, the smells of spicy kebabs and shawarmas from restaurants to the side of the road. I have finally made my way to a local spice market. That is Ishtar. 9.5/10

Firstly, damn!!! In two senses, firstly the fragrance itself, and secondly the fact that it appears it may have been discontinued already before I could get a bottle without having to pay $95 for shipping to the UK (N.B. I am not paying $95 for shipping to the UK) This is beautifully natural smelling, original, old-school, clean, fresh and interesting. The opening is a burst of leafy greenness with wonderfully woody undertones, a gorgeous fresh incense smell, and slightly soft resinous background that supports the fragrance but never seems to come to the fore. Think lighting fresh incense in almost (but not quite) dry woodland in early spring just before the bluebells flower and when there is still a sticky residue of leaked winter sap on the trunks of some of the trees, having taken a long bath with a very traditional natural-smelling soap first thing in the morning, then walking a few yards away and lying on the grassy ground and enjoying the surroundings. That's the overall sense I get from this fragrance. The dry down (which is pretty long lasting for me) retains most of the greenness and soapiness, but goes slightly more woody, although for me the resinous myrhh remains in the background until right at the very end of the fragrance life. Truly a beautiful scent, and one I am glad I've been able to at least order a couple of decent-sized samples of before it disappears for good.

Received this direct as part of the choose your own sample set. Immediately sets itself apart from pretty much everything in the Rogue lineup as there is neither Oakmoss nor Tuberose, which are staples of Cross’ work. The first time I put this on skin it was an instant love. The myrrh and benzoin are huge but not in an overpowering way, they’re just the most present. This is a very well blended scent, make no mistake. It tends toward cooler weather but if you live in a moderate climate I could *almost* see this being year round with my only trepidations being the hottest days of the year in your locale. Anything 70s F or below this would play in. I get decent projection a few feet off of my body and pretty good longevity. It will die down and sit closer to you after a few hours but the dry down is almost as enjoyable as the initial blast of an opening. A very well executed fragrance and an interesting new direction for Mr Cross that is welcome. Has not unseated Mousse Illuminee which has one of the best and most extensive drydowns in modern perfumery, but definitely full bottle worthy.

'Ishtar Ishtar is a perfect example, that shows Rogue’s dedication to exquisite natural materials. Originally conceived as an aromatic fresh scent with a woodsy base, it turned out quite a bit different than what originally planned, as Manuel Cross found that two of the notes meant for the background; a smoky/silvery frankincense and a sweet/resinous benzoin kept rising to the top of the composition. Luckily the result turned to be a dynamic, gorgeous incense scent with a wonderfully fresh sweetness. Juniper and lily, perhaps the biggest players in a different fragrance, go to work here intensifying the brightest and cleanest aspects of the frankincense, helping shape the fragrance into something greener, fresher, and more lively and energetic rather than cold, churchy starkness. Similarly, the benzoin blends perfectly with sweet, woodsy myrrh and a spot of sandalwood. I do believe this fragrance is no longer being made which is sad to know.

I’m not sure what kind or sorcery is in this bottle, I just know I love it. Resins and incense and sweet wood, Ishtar is gorgeous and another Rogue that I want in my collection. Projection is just a few feet, but longevity is better than average on my perfume eating skin. I love this brand. Everything smells like quality. And the label art and design is really well done, with a kind of vintage folk art aesthetic. I own Chypre-Siam and Jasmin Antique. So far I want Champs Lunaire, Derviche and now Ishtar. It is a much better deal to buy two bottles from Mr. Cross’s Etsy shop. There you’ll get 10% off when you purchase two perfumes and the updated square bottles.