Enslaved

I remember going up to Roja Dove's Haute Parfumerie in 2007 or 2008, close when these first perfumes had been released. It was (and perhaps still is) a magical place, with enormous antique bottles of vintage Caron sparkling in the lamplight, shining little bottles of Xerjoff, and I remember a jewel-encrusted Baccarat "Les Larmes Sacrees de Thebes" sitting on a shelf by itself, £6000 an ounce. Roja Dove himself was there, walking around, silk shirt stylishly half open. I had no idea who he was, but he introduced himself and was so friendly. He asked me what my favourite perfumes were, and he said "ah! You admire a chypre oriental. You might like this," he handed me a bottle of Jean Patou "1000" to try, and then, "or perhaps this..." and he spritzed Enslaved onto a slip of card and wafted it under my nose. It was instant love. It's discontinuation is a crime. The opening is something akin to spicy carnation crossed with burnt birthday candle - smoky, powdery, sweet. Jasmine, ylang ylang, and carnation are the leaders here from the middle of the pyramid, but Enslaved is definitely an oriental. As the scent unfolds the well-balanced patchouli, oakmoss, labdanum, and amber weave a dark spell giving the flowers a smoky quality, although they never lose their sweetness. Amber and musk take over after the first half hour, although spicy carnation and that "birthday candle" note stick around. I'm not sure I would call this a powder bomb, but it does have a vintage, powdered quality for sure. There's nothing dated about it, though. It's addictive, comforting, and sexy. It's candlelight in a dark and opulent castle, surrounded by books and tapestries and vases full of carnations. It's a velvet blanket underneath the stars. It's dancing cheek to cheek with your beloved as a violin plays softly in the background. It's still my favourite Roja Dove - and I have tried many since. ps. I've never tried Habanita, but I do hope it smells like this because I own over 500 bottles of perfume and I haven't smelled anything else like Enslaved. And I can't live without it. I have one bottle left and it's getting down to the end. Maybe Roja will be kind and bring it back.

Enslaved (Parfum concentration) is an "unconventional Oriental". Oriental? Yes, but an head almost Chypre, whitout being a Chypre. There is a strange complexity, fascinating, which whisks you way; but it's smooth and dense like a balm. Enslaved refers to the mind many masterpieces of the past, touches them, but goes beyond. A smooth geranium in top with hints of carnation (after the radiant light of the citrus)that could be L'Origan by Coty. A leathery heart with Jasmine of Grasse which is warmed by Cedarwood with its waxy-milky hand in place of the cloying Sandalwood. A rich Heliotropian-Vetiver with nuances of Vanilla and Ambregris that suggest an Habanita with reflection of Shalimar and Heure Blue. For me, an enigmatic masterpiece, certainly controversial... but that reverses the Oriental concept in a mix of dissonances that make it sparkling.

Enslaved is the epitome of oriental Chypre, I’m gutted this magnificent beauty is no longer with us, but I understand its discontinuation, as this is a composition from a bygone era. It’s undeniably old school, classical French perfumery at its best. Warming and vintage in the most comforting way possible. Carnation is the star here - it’s dense and warming with its clove-like spiciness, thickened by a smooth base of leathery labdanum and oakmoss. I pick up a prominent rose and salty geranium combination in the background, alongside powdery florals and soft citruses. This is an utter masterpiece, it smells like travelling back in time 70 years, to the golden age of perfume. I managed to find an old paper label, plastic cap 30ml bottle and I will treasure it until I can find another. A must have!

Enslaved. It fit me like a fine leather glove. Some reviewers claim Habanita as an inspiration. Meh..somewhat. It isnt that cut and dried. I have the vintage Habanita extrait and edt and this, if I had to say its relation to it is a fine tuned habanita or animalic chypre. I got a big rose backed up by classic geranium with a growly sweet animalic powdery musk.Theres a sweet orange blossom leather from the labdanum that reminds me of Cuir Mauresque. Im in heaven. Completely underrated in the line and Roja fine tunes older ideas..usually for the better. I have to give him credit where its due. Super and I need a full bottle pronto.

I'm surprised that vanilla is not listed as a note, because it seems quite vanilla-ey...Very powdery, spicy vanilla and flowers. I can see how this would smell too mature for some peoples' tastes. Very potent. A small dab will definitely be noticed. I like it, but I'm not convinced it's worth the hefty price. Update: Still can't shell out for the big bottle, but felt it necessary to at least invest in a 5ml decant. Such a small amount lasts so long that I felt justified :)