Pierre de Velay No. 23

I last reviewed Pierre de Velay 23 a couple of years ago when I had just a sample of this wonderful perfume, and just 6 years later after it’s release in 2019, it was announced that they were discontinuing it so of course I had to pick up a bottle. At the time of my review, I made comparisons to Chanel No 5. And whilst I still stand by those comparisons, I’ve found this has a lot more to say about it since wearing it repeatedly. It’s very sharp in the opening, that musky cocktail of a cutting civet note, which slashes through a shimmering ray of bright aldehydes like a knife, is accompanied by citrus and white florals in the opening. As it settles and becomes more powdery, the buttery, creamy nature of ylang and soft woods tempers the sharp animal facets of the civet and labdanum, alongside this beautiful ambergris note. The reason I find it reminiscent of Chanel No. 5 is because of that absurd explosion of aldehydes, but aside from that it does its own thing - it’s far more animalic, leathery and dense. I adore this scent, it’s one of the best from the PDV line and I’m so sad to see it go, but glad I managed to snag it before it’s departure.

This is a glorious happy scent, but one which is also mysterious and dark in its underbelly. As said below it was inspired by Chanel No. 5 but with darker more animalistic and masculine base notes. It opens up with aldehydes and a splash of citrus but the tropical flowers (ie Ylang Ylang) come in as quickly as some animalic tones. My wife and I both thought it was like smelling a cat's ass in a flower garden, but it is ever so sexy. As it dries down the tobacco and clove come out and it continues to project and radiate its unique magic. I bought a sample pack and initially didn't like it, but before I knew it I was addicted and then it was gone before any of the other PdV samples were gone, so I had to order full bottle! Nothing like it out there. It is animalic, but fun, floral, but unisex or even masculine, and lasts forever. Can always smell it the morning after. It gets better and better, even mesmerising, into the dry down, so if you sample, make sure you spray on skin and give it a chance.

Pierre de Velay No. 23 is an incredibly underrated release from the line and such a fantastic recreation of an iconic scent profile. The top is comprised of intensely soapy and powdery aldehydes alongside soft citrus which seems comfortingly familiar. In the heart, a heavy dose of thick ylang and powdery violet can be found mingling with the aldehydes beautifully, before developing into a base of amber, animalic leather and civet, woods, oakmoss, clove and ambergris. An incredibly deep and complex base bursting with character which is executed perfectly. Overall I believe this is Roja’s take on the Chanel No. 5 scent profile. The opening is very similar to this but as the scent develops you soon realise the base is very different to No. 5 and adds such intense distinction from the array of added notes. I think this is a fantastic creation, building on a cultural classic and paying homage to one of the most famous fragrances of all time.

I am LOVING this. Yes it’s powdery but not in a baby powder type of way by any means. It’s sensual and has vibes to PDV 1 minus rose note well a different rose from 1. This is unisex, I don’t see this leaning fem based on the animalic undertones that make this sexy. For me if anything it’s more masculine but I feel right down the middle. If you like 1, you will like this. I prefer this in spring as apposed to 1 in winter but really 23 could be pulled off whenever bc it’s so complex and changes based on temp/weather conditions. Abolsute winner for me.

Received sample of 2ml and After 9 hours the Jasmine, orange blossom and ylang Still very strong. This perfume is more for woman