Semi-Bespoke No. 21

Semi Bespoke 21 is a timeless leathery chypre fragrance which heaps of character, it’s truly unforgettable once you smell it. The scent opens initially very fresh, vibrant and tart with sharp notes of juicy grapefruit and rindy mandarin orange. The citrus is then illuminated by bed of gentle flowers, with rose and jasmine at the forefront. As this settles on the skin, it becomes deeper and richer. Thick layers of opulent leather intertwined with the oily earthiness of cypriol is smoothed out by a traditional chypre base of oakmoss, labdanum and patchouli. Alongside this are woody aromatic touches of juniper, frankincense and cedar. Overall this is a leather and cypriol dominant scent. The cypriol here is very tame and blends well with the leather, it’s not explosive like Majestic Aoud or FM Promise. This fragrance is beautiful and I would love a bottle, but I find I enjoy the opening a lot more than the dry down and so the price just isn’t worth it for me.

Opens like a bouquet of lilies and floral compliments on a bed of fresh, photorealistic grapefruits and oranges. The citrus' evaporate and are quickly replaced by an overdose of cypriol oil with resinsous cedar and clove nuances on a bed of leather. The metamorphosis continues as the finished product shakes its tough, leathery skin and in comes an injection of mixed, jammy roses and tonka bean sweetness. Every transition retains an element of the past. There too much going on here but it all finds a way to settle and blend harmonically, albeit the finish is ostentatious and flamboyant, but subdued insofar as projection. Really high quality. Even with the price and the fact that this isn't my personal bag in mind, I still have to afford this fragrance 5 stars. Artistry.

Semi-bespoke #21: Rose Leather Chypre/Ambree: Fresh opening with a burst of citrus. Right after, deep rich Rose de Mai rushes in with other white flowers like a beautiful wedding bouquet. Gradually It's shifting from lightly honeyed rose/white floral to spicy rose/amber with soft suede and warm musk. Juniper berries and Cypriol keep the composition not too dark by adding some green/ herbal notes. The drydown is so intoxicating dry/herbal leather/oakmoss. It's very complex and masterly blended. Silky smooth. It reminds me of: Nothing. Very unique. Projection: 3/5 Longevity: 5/5 excellent more than 12h, even after shower