Semi-Bespoke No. 23

This is very nice, labdanum forward, slightly spicy, amber fragrance. Very warm. The pictorial description on the Haute Perfumerie website is accurate (sun baked earth and the warmth of skin warmed by the sun). You have to like labdanum to appreciate this fragrance. This is very natural. It opens with a slight spice, slightly herbal (actually more aromatic), resinous, ambery opening. Overy the course of an hour or so the aromatics dissipate, the slight spice continues and more and more the labdanum becomes center stage. Over the next few hours or so the spices then disappear and the scent becomes linear with a labdanum and ambery base. Very enjoyable, very warm, inviting. I describe spice several times but it's not like the spice in Fetish, much more tame. I can see this shining on a warmer fall day. Where, the morning is cool and the afternoon warms up but never becomes hot. This is a comforting scent with an addictive quality. You catch wafts and leaves you wanting more. Update: after a couple of months maturation in the bottle and a few more wears I wanted to update my review. Mainly my update concerns the base. It’s not so linear. There’s more development then I initially reported. I detect some of the Oud/incense/vanilla/cedar wood notes more. It’s very very good. The projection is nearly beast mode and longevity is off the charts, like greater then 24 hours. It’s now become a strong love for me and look forward to fall/winter when this will really shine. This is a definite must try for any Roja fan.

No. 23 slowly reveals itself, opening with oregano, thyme and basil, giving a vibrant, aromatic and slightly savoury Mediterranean feel. As it develops, the herbs blend into warm, balsamic labdanum and cool, dry, peppery frankincense. The contrast between the warm resin and smoky incense gives the fragrance real depth. The dry-down brings earthy cypriol, cedar, sandalwood and pine, creating a woody, resinous feel that connects beautifully with the herbal opening. What makes No. 23 so addictive for me is the constant interplay between green herbs, warm resins and smoky woods. It keeps evolving on the skin, making me want to smell my wrist again and again. Complex yet beautifully balanced, with a textured smokiness that never feels harsh. The resins add warmth, depth and roundness, making No. 23 a truly memorable fragrance. As mentioned below by @RGH01, it does bear some similarity to Pierre de Velay No. 4, but I love them both.

Semi Bespoke 23 is a gorgeously masculine and intriguing woody aromatic scent. It opens with a powerfully green, earthy and herbal concoction of oregano, thyme and basil, which is freshened up by the vibrant kick of bergamot and gentle florals. Not long after spraying, an explosion of thick and heady frankincense takes over. This chewy resinous aspect is furthered by a leather labdanum and creamy sandalwood, all whilst maintaining a sweet warm spiciness of clove and vanilla. As it settles on the skin a rich woody base of oud and cypriol emerge, alongside earthy patchouli, sharp cedar and pine. This scent is gorgeous, however it bears a strong similarity to PDV4, just without the rum accord. I can’t deny how good this smells and would be a bit amongst woody aromatic lovers, but the value for money just isn’t there when PDV4 is of the same quality for a better price.

pdv #4 with a twist of aromatics

Semi-bespoke #23: Spicy Herbal Ambree: Opening with thick herbal/aromatic amber. It gets spicier and bit sweeter over time. The spice mellows down and sandalwood adds some creaminess. The vanilla also gets more prominent toward the end. Very warm and comfort scent, great for colder months. Not too complex or a lot of transformation but perfectly balanced. It reminds me of: Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan (very similar). Many people said PdV4 and London but I haven't tried those. Projection: 3/5 Longevity: 5/5