Arcadia

amaretto fan myself, now perplexed that this perfume showcases amaretto (at all). strange, I get none of that. on me Arcadia smells very vegetal, bit tangy on the opening and very dry too. Being also a fan of vetiver, I can appreciate the drydown (still possessing some of the vegetal feel of the opening) but honestly not liking the chaos at the top and heart.

This is what I'd imagine when the term "blonde woods" is mentioned. Arcadia is a "white" ethereal variation on the familiar woody/incense theme, but done with such lightness, as if nothing bad or sad could ever happen in this forest. By "light" I mean both shiny as the bottle itself, and without any weight keeping it to the ground. All the heavy or earthy undertones that are usually part of this genre are removed: no smoke, no wet earth, no bitterness, no patchouli. If this was a sound, it would have no bass, and there's just the minimal amount of mid-frequencies to give it enough volume. Just silver woods, sweetened by some liquorish undertones. Not your usual sugary sweetness, just some drops of Amaretto, Kahlua or Bailey's spilled on the wooden table. Carrot seed is something that I can only guess, and I guess it's similar to the ambrette note in Goutal's Musc Nomade: slightly vegetal with a woody facet, slightly sweet, slightly powdery (almost the same note complements iris in ELDO's La Fin Du Monde). If there's vetiver at all, It's a light one like Guerlain's, and it completes the other elements of this watercolor painting of light. It is cold and reserved, but at the same time calming,like fresh mountain air. Although Arcadia's structure is quite predictable and generic, most woody fragrances usually make a turn in the middle towards darker or denser territory. This one does not. It stays light and clean, as the frosted glass ornament: a filigree carved in blonde wood.

When I was a kid, my Dad used to treat me by pouring a drizzle of his prized amaretto over a bowl of vanilla ice cream. Arcadia reminds me of this whole endeavor: a smooth, warm, slightly peppery pour of amaretto atop a clean creamy scoop of cold vanilla sweetness. This is true vanilla, with the nutty pods and thick medicinal syrupiness intact. The mild spiciness of Dad's aftershave is there too. On skin, no one accord overpowers the others. They relax to form a cloud of something can't-quite-put-my-finger-on-it interesting but comforting. It's herbal, gourmand, clean, and complex. After an hour I get a slight hit of orange as well. Maybe Dad fixed an amaretto sour later? I pulled Arcadia out today after forgetting I had it (a RBR fragrance wardrobe was gifted to me years ago). I don't remember liking it this much! RBR fragrances aren't simple, for sure. I don't know if time or aging as improved it but I'll definitely pull out Aracadia for wear again this fall & winter. The name strikes me as odd for the fragrance, having nothing of the outdoors, springtime, or lush pastoral countryside about it. Arcadia is a sly "grownup" treat wrapped in a familiar, creamy sweetness, all enjoyed next to the fireplace in a gleaming wood-paneled study. Dry down is more unisex than the initial blast.

A tart woody leathery opening (might be the carrot seed and incense that creates the leathery feel) and a very lovely strong vetiver on drydown. I'm not getting any amaretto ...