Testa di Moro

Testa di Moro might be a quiet leather, but do not mistake quiet for meek or limpid. Much of how you interpret Testa di Moro depends upon how you apply the definition of “quiet”. Like the ancient Moor’s Head vases with which it shares its name, beneath the surface there is hostility and discomposure. It certainly doesn’t start off quietly with its bracing dried fruit, floral woody saffron, and smokey and resinous incense. They overlay a dark black leather that in very early stages nearly convinces that this is going to be a birch tar bomb. The fruit and saffron dissipate quickly to go to a big styrax and castoreum combo that is very hot, salty and sweaty, animalic, and of course leathery. It’s an excellently done transition but far from “quiet”. In fact it’s a bit discomforting, like standing next to someone who is almost over the edge; they might not be acting-out but the strains of their face and neck and shoulders, their hands slowly going into fist like shapes, don’t help to create this feeling of quiet. The tension and magnetism are alluring, but you feel a need to keep your distance a bit. Despite the tension, there is a smooth and elegant luxury to Testa di Moro. Though it is genuinely leathery and animalic - the hides, the sweat, the gentle but tarry and resinous smoke - it’s not like be slapped across the face by a freshly tanned and polished hide as many leather perfumes can be (I love those too). The dry down continues this riding-the-line direction by presenting a gently smokey, sandalwood, and green tobacco layer that accents the now-quieter salty and animalic castoreum and styrax leather. Right before this time comes an interpretation of the “quiet” description that many might take issue with: it’s clear that Testa di Moro is going to have a longevity issue when compared to the majority of leather perfumes. The dry down is very quiet by way of the perfume quickly losing strength and durability. Additionally, the final skin scent can get a bit out of balance at times. Note that last phrase: at times. The climate in which Testa di Moro is worn very much matters. Compared to many leather perfumes this is actually a better experience in warmer and more humid weather as opposed to cool and/or dry weather, which is when many of us choose to wear leather perfumes. Even in warmer weather - for reference right now it is 80degF and 47% humidity, the latter being low - moisture is needed in addition to warmth. I’m sure it performs very well at the Ferragamo headquarters in Florence. Additionally, and finally, we should welcome this “issue”. Many a modern leather perfume lover would instantly write this off for its smooth luxury and quiet dry down but it’s precisely because we have so few leather perfumes like that makes Testa di Moro stand out. Why can’t we have a leather that doesn’t bellow at us? Why can’t we have a leather that doesn’t get cumbersome with a 10-12hr longevity? Why can’t we have a leather that wants to act like a second skin in the later parts of its life rather than feeling like it’s trying to explode from a launch pad? Usually we would look to suede via orris-type leathers for this sort of restraint, but here we have the classic animalic-shoe polish-tanned hide leather that manages to show the same restraint of those suede perfumes even when the notes give you the impression it is fit to burst with emotion. It’s a rare characteristic of leather perfumes, and I congratulate Ferragamo and Fabrice Pellegrin for the achievement while proudly displaying it (and its gorgeous bottle) amongst my favorite leather perfumes.

Testa di Moro greets me in a gingerly manner. This is not one that douses me in a heavy cloud, but is a stealth simmer that surprises and delights me. It is by no means "soft," but it is one that sneaks up on you and titillates. It's a leather that is at first propelled by styrax and castoreum, a warm animal furry-hide-nuzzle, but with a smooth elegance not typical of this profile. The saffron is an accent rather than unnaturally spiked outward, as can be the case when it's present in modern leathers. What is most noteworthy though is how this leather accord cuts through an olibanum in its heart; this unique convergence brings out the most flattering qualities in each, making the whole feel almost effervescent. A sleek and polished shoe leather and a frankincense suede joins a dry mate powder and lightly smoked sandalwood. Luxurious without being pretentious, Testa di Moro is rounded, supple, and nuanced. This is a welcome diversion from the spikier leather powerhouses. Well done, Fabrice Pellegrin!

Smells like warm, brown, luxurious leather car seats and I love it. Very smooth. One of the most confident and respectably masculine fragrances I have smelled. Base has noticeable resinous styrax to temper the leather -- Testa di Moro is very resinous. Somehow comforting and bold at the same time. Smells of maturity, wisdom, and strength. In the realm of Bel Ami and Knize Ten, but absolutely its own beast. A steaming bloody growl with Italian old world sophistication. 9.4/10

I always wanted Incense Suede but took too long to pull the trigger! Glad I came across Testa di Moro at the store- It’s basically Incense Suede, just more wearable. Got it for $100 on Amazon... what a steal!

Great Incense and leather combo. I feel the mate/Styrax expecially on the opening and then it becames more about the incense and then leather. Love this One.