L'Iris

[JUNE 2024] Proud owner of the last, final bottle in the Art Nouveau purple label from Libertine AUS. (Heavily discounted: $495 to $200 something, simply because I asked on time. Imagine that!) Nostalgic impression of milk-like Edwardian dusting powders topped on the earthy sepals of a lonely iris bouquet of which ripe green saps seep from its stems into the lightly fresh spicy neroli / geranium / sichuan pepper vasewater that cusps the truffle-esque (ambergris?) dusty-earthy roots of the iris bouquet. This vanitas / still life of an Iris bouquet from the offerings of Santa Maria Novella is gently lit under dewy, moist overcast streaks of sun. The impression is also reminiscent of cold cream that the people of yesteryear would apply to cure one's ails or brighten one's self to consumption-stricken complexion. L'Iris by Santa Maria Novella, in my opinion, is more nuanced a representation of the Belle Epoque / Art Nouveau era stylings of the time than Quatro Pizzi by Casamorati: Pizzi is not too much a gourmand in sweetness, but a waxy, androgynous tuberose amplified with coconut husk, not milk. This naturalist iris, however, and its milky-sweet sap is reminiscent of the lightly-flavourful (but perhaps somewhat pale to contemporary tastebuds) patisserie offerings of then-- humbly scented, flavoured, all natural, and of enough embellishment to please the hungry (even if the offering, once again, could be considered quite mild for our times) yet L'Iris by Santa Maria Novella is rich in the depth it has to offer for what it presents, even if it remains a still life of itself the whole way through. It projects from the area of spritz with good distance and longetivity as I was able to breathe the gentle scent of L'Iris in my afternoon excursion within the city square. There, its strength lies as a parfum. L'Iris also brings to mind an archaic beauty from the time of which it evokes: L. T. Piver's Florayme (1897?), with the descriptions of its earthy orris root note and powdery floral portraiture. I highly recommend one find a surviving batch of Florayme, compare it with L'Iris and preserve both for future owners of the next century to come. It is rare to find a perfume that captures such a transient, but important moment in art history like S. M. Novella L'Iris (the recipe for this concoction perhaps resurrected from archives long ago.) Music to accompany your perusing: Andrew Bird and Katharine Whalen's "A Woman's Life and Love." (1998) / Nellie Melba's "Songs My Mother Taught Me" (1916).

This is the first bottle I own from this house, a result of my search for fresh powdery fragrances. I loved it a lot but wasn't wowed, because it stirred up too many nostalgic feelings and memories. This isn't a pure iris petal, nor is it the root. This is an iris that stands out with its floral side, adorned with other flowers. Its companions are neroli and bitter galbanum. Even though the perfume makes its floral and powdery nature clear from the very first hit, I think it starts with a peppery-zesty kind of note and a green-bitter galbanum. There's a slight acetone vibe in this part, and I'm used to that. Whenever I smell a serious floral that isn't drowned in sweetness, the opening is always challenging, and it's the same here... I understand I need to be patient. In the mid notes, neroli and iris petal peak. A natural floral bouquet feel emerges. There's so much neroli here that I questioned for a moment whether "l'néroli" would've been a more fitting name. But towards the end, things change. Drydown....the iris petal in this scent turns into a lotion-like powder, the neroli calms down and what comes out is something perfectly clean and pure white. The best comparison I can make here is a cosmetic one: "luxury face moisturizer." I can't describe it any better than that, and I'm aware there are so many scents in this category, but this is the first thing that comes to mind. I don't mean the recent ones, and I'm not talking about cold cream either. Like your mother's luxury face cream from years ago... It's been compared to Hiris, and it doesn't resemble it at all. Hiris is more iris-focused, drier, a colder scent, while this one is a supported composition where the other clean florals are also in the foreground. The only common ground is that they both focus on the floral side of iris and they're both sweetness-free. Beyond that, they share nothing. This scent isn't supremely long-lasting but it can still hold on for 3-4 hours. The sillage though? That's a wow. Room filler! Even though the uniqueness offered for the price is limited, I was satisfied with how natural it smells, the beauty of the bottle (mine is the light-colored label), and how it feels quality. Tag(s): iris petal + neroli, floral bouquet, natural, clean, lotiony, creamy

[July 2025] As an owner of this purple-label edition perfume (L'Iris), there's a mawkish olfactory patina to all these Victorian-Edwardian recipes that also haunts Grossmith and pre-Clive Christian Crown Perfumery as "marked": for the lack of a better word, it smells nice away from one's self. Up close, 1890s-1910s Art Nouveau true-to-era perfumes have this... "soured dampness" reminiscent of mild floral decay, even offputtingly "mausoleum"/"consumption"-core which is very romantic on paper but emotionally charged (overwrought) and in the context of what settings would be best worn for such perfumes, I just find L'Iris too austere. Worn too long, it's less mother's heirloom opera coat and tbqh its vibes are giving solemn kyrie complete with strange medieval polyphonies-- transposed with Victorian parlour flourish-- that only makes sense when you remember how tied to the church such times, as this recipe from S. M. Santa Maria Novella existed, were. It's not meant to be "fun" I know, and for the time being of my winning a limited nouveau-bottle it was theoretically stimulating. But L'Iris... no matter who you are... wear this fragrance and L'Iris *will* body you like your presence temporally should not exist alongside us; alien to our living century. A walking Carrie Jacobs-Bond song. Your aura would be "marked" by L'Iris the same way a decayed Mantilla floral lace, and heirloom muslin shirts would decorate you: non-living portrait, preserved, ghosted.

L'Iris is about the composition of the 'whole' iris, together with some other notes, so I dare to say it is a well-done 'all-round' iris frag that feels very natural. What I get from the beginning to the end is orris root...but as a backbone; hence its smoothness and buttery quality along the journey. It opens with a blast of lipsticky, musky, almost musty, iris 'petal' that is, unfortunately, mistaken as synthetic musk to some people. Later when I expect iris to take the stage, the iris petal is gone; it then completely morphs into delicate green jasmine and neroli, with a tinge of rosy/geranium that perhaps adds oomph as well as a difference to the scent and with orris root in the background. Finally, I get the same pleasant fluffy sweet musk in the drydown, still together with jasmine and neroli. I remember this musk clearly because it is the same one I get from SMN Muschio that I fell in love with. L'Iris is a 'more complex' floral-based fragrance from SMN. It is for someone looking for an all-round, exquisite, natural-smelling iris scent, with other floral gimmicks, that is neither powdery nor too soapy like many other iris frags in the market.

I finally got a sample with a SMN purchase! I love iris, green and violet scents so I was very excited to try this. I'm familiar with SMN's beautiful way of making scents. They are my absolute favourite. First i get a blast of jasmine and green notes with powder that smells like jasmine incense sticks burning in London Camden Market mixed with a freshly done load of damp laundry. I also feel like I've been slapped in the face with a big white lily and covered in the pollen. Fresh cut flowers, green sap and a quite astringent. An iddybiddy smidge of neroli. The pepper is a great balance. Then it starts to mellow and that gorgeous iris starts to pop through. I'm so glad this perfume has a journey. I love Melograno because it has a journey too. L'iris is incredible! The dry down is another surprise, I can't put my finger on the aromas but it's very cozy and warm, a bit papery, spicy and incense. Slightly fruity woody and warm. Lovely. Though I find the base very annoying. Citta Di Kyoto is very similar and not so aggressive.

Everything I've come to expect from this illustrious perfume house. I adored their recent Aqua di Colonia Rosa Novella, which is perfect for spring. L'Iris would suit spring too, but for me it really suggests late summer and early autumn with its nostalgic iris and subtle warmth. It opens with very obvious iris - powdery dry and delectable, then I notice jasmine most. The jasmine fades a little (thankfully for me) and it becomes a mysterious balance of warm, powdery and soapy yet warm. I am reminded of Hiris, but I find this less snooty somehow (I love Hiris but it always suggested a polished poshness I don't aspire to!) There's something elixir-like about Santa Maria Novella's perfumes. Maybe it's suggested to my imagination by their impressive history - Catherine di Medici was reputedly one of their first clients. I can imagine a Medieval Itallian princess wearing this. The packaging is heaven - ivory and deep violet, wrapped in an enbroidered ribbon, then the beautful bottle itself. I love it!

I like feel like a Renaissance prince. Like Dracula before he became a vampire. There is something unmistakably noble about it, but without any gothic excess. It smells like a quietly aristocratic man who reads Latin, commissions music, and receives ambassadors in a fifteenth-century palace. I came to L’Iris after exploring much of Santa Maria Novella’s collection, and it unexpectedly became one of my favorites. Many iris fragrances lean heavily into cosmetics or lipstick powder. This one doesn’t. The powder is there, but it feels like finely milled orris root rather than a vanity table. I smell cool earth, dry stone, vellum, and something slightly yet nicely metallic. The opening is restrained and refined. As it develops, it acquires an almost architectural quality. I don’t picture a modern luxury hotel or designer boutique, I picture stone palazzi, polished wood, vellum manuscripts, and afternoon light filtering through Renaissance windows. Violets are growing on the hill outside.

Velvety Iris magnolia with peppery notes is how I would describe the opening is an intense spiced neroli with a dry down so feminine and demure I would associate this scent to the trad wives 🤣. More complex in regards to magnolia though the smell dissipates over time, first hour spray is definitely the most intense with insane silage my family could smell me in the other side of the room. Definitely the best Santa Maria Novella in my opinion Magnolia being number 2 in the house My Verdict Scent : 9 ( Very Addictive Bottle Design : 9 ( The Anniversary Bottle Is A 9 Regular bottle Is A 7.5 the quality lies within the cap and the label Concept : 8.5 ( Classically Vintage Femme Value : 8 ( If You Manage To Buy One From Their Flagship Store Online Prices Are Insane Blind Buy Safe? If you’re a floral maniac you would absolutely love this if you hate florals skip this entirely it’s for the girlies that enjoys basking in gardenia petals

Florence exudes a pearlescent aura, enveloped in a golden haze that elevates every facet. Within it shines an opulence that is never contrived, but rather wild and natural, floral. How can one not be enchanted by the fragrance of the Fleur de Lys, the noble flower of the Florentine hills? In it, we find not the usual powdery iris, but a variant that is exquisitely fresh and green, creamy in texture - all thanks to the precious butter extracted from its rhizomes. To wear this fragrance is to pay homage to the golden thread that winds through the city's storied history - an essence that is regal, imbued with virginal innocence and austere magnificence, echoing the luminous breath of a flower in perpetual bloom upon the skin. A fragrance sweetened by magnolia, which blanches its dense creaminess. The gently frayed echo of an authentic beauty leaves upon my skin a hazy yet evocative impression: the shadow of an enduring grace.

Bowled over this summer by the immersive experience at Santa Maria Novella in Florence itself, I was determined somehow to bottle the experience. Despite plenty of self-pampering products in the period showrooms, the eaux de parfum choice came down to only 4. Raised eyebrows when I inquired which one was for men. Frostily, ‘They all are, sir.’ So I plumped for L’iris, iris being the lead note in Prada L’homme, a favourite of mine. With some lingering doubts about its truly unisex credentials, I bought. I think a man can get away with it, but it’s borderline. I love the neroli top note which sometimes threatens the iris, but the melange of the two is intoxicating. The downside of the natural ingredients is that for an eau de parfum, the longevity is a little disappointing. Helpful synthetics we’re sadly not around in 1221....

This smells like a freshly cut bouquet of flowers, with stems and leaves. It is very, very natural. I do not find it indolic, as someone wrote, and neither soapy. To me, it really smells like natural real flowers, and I believe it is so beautiful and definitely of a very high quality. The iris is definitely the most prominent note, but, in my opinion, it smells less powdery and more like a fresh flower. I do not find it vintage smelling either, to me this is quite a timeless ( and ageless and genderless) fragrance, appropriate to anybody, anytime, anywhere. I believe you can wear it all year round. Longevity is good and projection is pleasantly moderate and not offensive. The bottle and the packaging are gorgeous (I definitely cannot throw away the box, it is sooo beautiful!).

This is, simply a lovely iris with neroli on top. very powdery, floral with hint of green aromatics. it is simple, very refreshing and warm familiar at the same time. starts fresh from the neroli and grows more buttery, rounded powdery as time goes by. i was expecting this to last only a few hours on me, but i was pleasantly surprised, this lasts longer and the more it stays on my skin, the more buttery it is. again, this is a simple fragrance, and i simply adore it! can totally see why some might see this more feminine leaning, but i think this is going to be wonderful for everyone! PS: my bottle is in the style of I Giardini Medicei series, not with the purple label as seen in this page.

I am beyond in love with this perfume. This perfume is exactly how Heretic’s Nosferatu should have smelled like. I tried it on in store and was instantly mesmerized. It starts off as a cold wet floral scent with a powdery haze, but as it deepens it almost becomes warm and creamy but still keeps the cold floral scent. This perfume could be worn year round depending on your vibe. In the spring and summer you’ll smell like fresh flowers, almost like an Edwardian era spring. But in the fall and winter you’ll smell more melancholy. Definitely think Nosferatu. Such an interesting scent. I’m in love. My husband is getting it for me for Christmas!

A positive note in contrast to those already here: Purchased in Florence two days after the release, it is a magnificent Iris perfume. To me, the first note is a lovely Neroli which quickly dries to pure Iris. There are other florals here, but I think Iris is the strongest. Like all florals, the main downside is longevity, which is only a couple of hours at what I would consider "parfum" strength. The achievement, besides a a truly elegant bouquet, is in preserving the iris note in the basenotes which do linger for some time more. SMN has the highest standard, as usual, and it is evident here.

How i wish i didn’t like it. Now i can’t get it out of my head. I really want to have it. Unfortunately it’s not available in our country and this brand is so hard to find. Anyway, i love the bottle and the scent. It has a vintage vibe to it and everytime i smell it i smell my childhood during 90s. Although im not good at describing a scent this one to me smells like an old lotion (luxurious) and has fresia vibes (less the sharpness). It is sweet but not headache inducing. It truly is a refined scent. This one for me is perfect for those who want light scents. Perfect for hot summer days❤️

One of those really rare iris frangrance that smells like an iris flower, not the butter we get from the root. Delightful, feminine, simple yet quite rare as the scent. I love that I can't really point at one particular note they used to recreate that impression of a flower that has such a faint smell. A dewy interpretation, not green, earthhy or carroty iris (and I do love those kind of interpretation). It's a bit cold but buttery at the same time, like those deep violet iri we have in France. A must have.

Interesting, raw, natural iris straight from the ground with some church vibes. Dry, sweet and beautiful. It reminds me a lot of Relique D'Amour by Oriza L. Legrand and also Passage d'Enfer by L'Artisan Parfumeur, both have incense and flowers in a similar fashion. L'Iris smells amazing when someone next to you wears it, this airy wonderful natural flower. When I used it on my hand I couldn't realize how beautiful it is at first so it's worth letting someone else try it and sniff them.

This perfume is like a walk at sunrise through a beautiful garden path. Sweet but not saccharine, like a flower covered in dew that’s just beginning to burn off in the early sun’s rays. A lovely feminine scent—the honeysuckle is particularly strong to me—it sits close to your skin but has staying power. Graceful, ageless, nostalgic, creamy, totally lovely. I find this totally addictive. What will I wear when my sample runs out?

I like this a lot. The magnolia and jasmine sweeten up the opening making the iris more friendly than it can sometimes come across as. This isn't quite as elegant, austere, or melancholy as some iris perfumes can go. This one is more summery, and less springtime. Slightly soapy and musky in the dry down. I like the more cold and aloof iris perfumes so I don't think i'll be buying this but it is really good.

From beginning to end I can feel the fresh iris. It is very clean, musky and a little bit soapy; but as a very fresh iris bouquet. I really don’t like musky scents, but it doesn’t irritate me, so that I like it too much. I have bought it from SMN store in Rome and at first sniff I like it too much. Then the day after, I bought. It is gonna be my summer time perfume. If you hate iris, it is not for you!