Peau D'Espagne

Strong, rough animalic leather dominates this time-capsule of a scent. This fragrance is not for the faint of heart and must be worn with the understanding that it projects and many people who smell it on you will not like it. I will not be one of these people. I love this unrestrained gem. Pd'E opens with a leather accord that, as has been observed below, smells like a cobbler's shop/shoe shine stand or a saddlery. There is an immense amount of birch tar here together with enough civet (not civetone--unless SMN has access to some magical version of this synthetic that does a much better job counterfeiting the real thing than that used by everyone else) to make me wonder how this juice can possibly be IFRA compliant. in fact, when I smell a leather accord that is this realistic and unrestrained, I suspect that castoreum is present in some measure (although it is not mentioned in the pyramid). Anyway, this leather is wonderful and it sticks around for the all-day duration of Pd'E, as it should in a scent whose name means "Spanish Leather". Gradually, after the first quarter hour, this leather accord is joined by other elements of the fragrance. It might be more accurate to say the other elements of the scent start to crawl out from under the leather cloak that has enveloped them up until now. These notes are thoroughly blended and hard for me to distinguish individually. There is a saddle soap accord here that I think is bergamot and a green spicy note that could well be carnations playing off of a heady jasmine-- but that perception could be influenced by the stated components. To me, it all smells like someone is cleaning the leather with the previously mentioned saddle soap and polishing the leather as they go. Later, This soap and polish saddlery accord is given a lift by just a wee puff of white florals (perhaps they have been sitting in a vase on the saddle shop counter the whole time and a slight breeze has just made them noticeable). Deep in the base there is a warm woody cedar that might just be the aroma of the sun baked shelves in the shop. To me this is a magical scent with a surprising complexity lurking under the leather. As I said, I love it and I believe folks who enjoy animalic scents will love it as well. If that is not you, do sample first and he prepared not to like Pd'E because it ever a fragrance was polarizing, this is it. I wear this fragrance mostly in fall and early winter and either at night or during the day, but really anytime when I want to linger in its leathery richness. Considering the quality of this scent, it is well priced and can be purchased from SMN's website in most places as well as at the house's charming apothecary shops. This fragrance is masculine leaning without being completely out from under the unisex umbrella, unsafe for the office or, indeed, most anywhere else, and as such, it is glorious. Perhaps you have purchased an eco-chic automobile featuring vegan leather and you wish your stylishly minimalist interior smelled just a bit more like the inside of a classic British or Italian luxury saloon or exotic. Wear Pd'E in your rolling virtue signal for a bit and your problem will be solved. Or just wear it because sometimes we all need a blast of leathery animalic goodness if only to remind us of how strong and punchy such scents once were. Highly recommended.

I’m so so glad I blind bought this. I own a lot of leathers. It’s a note that always plays well on my skin and I wear a lot of leather too. It fascinates me and it’s one of the grossest weirdest creations we’ve ever come up with as a species. Something so garish as the skin of an animal transformed into some of the most elegant articles of clothing known to man and it’s an ancient practice we started long before most things were invented period. Like who came up with that lol. But this scent reminds me of this process. Most leathers I own have a lot going on and the leather is a base for the cornucopia of notes but this one has the leather fully up front and center. I don’t think of clothing or upholstery or bags just the material. I think that’s what makes me think of the process more so than the end product. I sampled Hyde last night from Hiram green and though I enjoyed it when I compare it to this I clearly prefer this. There is no sweetness here to accommodate you and make amends for the harsh leather. I feel like that shows its respect for me. Hyde thinks I can’t handle the truth but PDE is the truth. The simplicity also makes it feel closer to nature and animals. I think of an ancient boar in the garden of Eden rolling in an herb garden. Update: this makes so many other scents of mine come off a bit crass. It’s so elegant and smooth and refined. I have the frosted glass bottle so idk what the newer kind smells like. But this is just wonderful I want the air to just smell like this all the time like an incense I can burn to have this fill my house would be nice. The herbs stand out more as I try it over and over it makes it smell like tea tbh. It is very similar to the Oriza bottle thought that one is louder and therefore I go nose blind to it. I’ve noticed if a scent projects too much my nose will block it out. It’s better to last long but hug your skin as this does

Now this is a fragrance from the old world which I can imagine a officer from world war one would wear. I can picture him in his tent off the battlefield having a shave and applying this scent like a aftershave. lol It opens with a very spicy smoky medicinal woods, within this I can smell the cedar and cloves. It stays like this for a good few hours until it calms down a bit and the leather comes through. The leather is a raw stark leather before it's been dyed and smoothed out. At this heart stage of the scent you get hints of bergamot, florals, soap and a tiny hint of sweetness. As time passes and we move into the base notes a patchouli and civet accord take over. This stage strongly reminds me of the original patchouli heavy Givenchy Gentlemen from many years ago. In that one you had the same patchouli, birch and just a hint of civet. In Peau d' Espagne the civet note is more pronounced but not overwhelming so. It gives the scent a masculine animalic sensuality and I like this stage a lot. The fragrance lasts about five hours before becoming a skin scent but even then I can still smell wafts of the patchouli/civet combo. Now this is definitely a polarizing fragrance!!, the medicinal opening is going to smell like disinfectant to a lot of people. But I find it compelling and interesting, the leather also is just part of the makeup of the scent. I would not call this a leather dominant scent as it appears in the heart of the fragrance and is gone by the time the basenotes appear. Also the bottle if bought from the Santa Maria Novella store comes as a splash but they give you a atomiser attachment to change it up if that's your preference. I kind of like using it as a splash, like a aftershave. Thumbs up from me I like it especially the basenotes.

Peau D'Espagne (Gold Label, sniff party) Arguably the best leather scent I have sniffed so far. Simply the best, actually might be my favorite from Santa Maria Novella. Uncomplicated vintage leather that twine with beautiful floral note. And Soft Licorice sweet undertone, soft powdery at base. All of this compress and condense into one beautiful sheet of leather. This is (imho) the mother blueprint of any fragrance using Leather in modern perfumery. From Oriental - Leather like Shalimar (1925) or twist into new modern format. Like Eau Noire from Dior or HdP 1740. Undeniable beautiful. Please anyone, if you ever have chance to come across this. Go ahead, at any cost. #1 Santa Maria Novella for me. ===== Extension 1 : Friday 31, 2025 I have probably sniff at least 4 rendition of this fragrance. Apparently, the one I have sniffed is probably the oldest version, gold sticker. And what is in my hand now are 3rd rendition (the smooth frost glass). I think they can preserve the core of scent so well. It is not as thick as I remember from the Gold Label that smoky and go heavy on Birch Tar. Dark and Resinous. My bottle is more relaxed, airier but you can judge this as EdC like Cologne genre. This leave a very good dry down on your skin, The way it dry down to cedar, Hawthorn (reminds me of Chanel Beige) and Soft Rose (Carnation) with Smoky Birch Tar skank with IBQ. Just one word, Gentle Man. The one that will open the door and let you walk first.

Managed to get a vintage sample of this gorgeous perfume but there's nothing flouncy or poetic about it to me, I found it quite functional and to the point. The point being leather. A unambiguous, loveable, non intrusive, realistic leather accord. Interesting that it predates big references I could make to elegant 'Russian' leather accords like the iconic floral leather Cuir de Russie by Chanel and perhaps that Guerlain one of the same name? (although alas I've never tried that :() The vibe here is much more stripped back though and simple tonality, which I totally love about this perfume. Peau d'Espagne has this creamy. fleshy, lightly powdered feel, with a hint of smoke to it. It's barely 'smoky' though I get that this has much more toned down, less exotic floral element, rather than ylang or jamine it's much more in the realms of hinting at carnation or geranium. Could it even evoke mentions of Guerlain Derby? Again that would be totally misleading! lol not having much luck here reference wise. Basically if you like the perfumes I've mentioned, classic floral and powdery leathers, you like the house (yes they deserve to be called a house) of Santa Maria Novella you So smooth, I love it.

This is a real beast! Full of unapologetic identity, not giving a darn to what people say or could or would or will, for the matter. Solid and almost palpable, the stay power is that of a true Parfum, more than 24h on skin and even several days on some fabrics. Santa Maria Novella seams to survive the turmoil of fragrances being butchered – is it because they are made in Italy? Is it because they are so “niche” and not dominant? – whatever the reasons might be, hope it stays this way for eternity. Peau d’Espagne punches with a resinous-leather base which we can feel is there even before we reach it... it is like a frame, because it is that in-your-face. The floral notes of violet and carnation contribute with a powdery-nostalgia touch, but they are kept timid, and I love this. Hawthorn is a special species that lands a spicy-honey imaginary aura, very present in the heart. I would almost believe the civet is the real deal, wouldn’t I know the animal raw material has been banned (?) but again, maybe SMN gets away with murder and if they do, I’m up for sin as I cannot resist it. From same brand, always with me, Colonia Russa and Acqua di Cuba (honey again, with tobacco)

Opened the cap. Sprayed liberally. Man. What a herbal smokey medicinal opening. I'm in love. Wife smells it. HATES it. Says it smells like a hospital. Disinfectant. Betadine. I'm not getting too much of that. While the opening is pretty herbal, I suppose I can see how people could take it to smell like dettol. The bergamot maybe? To me, this is pure bliss in a bottle. As the hospital smell fades, in comes the civit in all its animalistic glory. This stuff keeps getting better and better. Dry and dusty. Maybe like a 100 year old leather bound book forgotten by the world. Is that too wanky? It's hard to explain. Bottom line is, my wife hates it. And I am in love with it. So there could be some problems at my house. 8/10

The gladiator of leather scents. This stuff swaggers with zero eff's given. True Praetorian Guard juice. Compared to this, Knize Ten is a tag-along, wanna-be. Absolutely LOVE this stuff! There's no pretense, no mistaking it for real, tightly-drawn leather, like that found on scabbards, shields, and saddle bags that have seen more action than an Indiana Jones movie. Amazingly authentic gravitas. Wearing this says more about you than you could ever say about yourself - and isn't that the entire point of scent?

Unquestionably addictive. The main staple is heavy woody/leathery scent that reminds you of old furniture that you will most likely not find at your own home. It stays pretty linear, but believe me, you like to stay it that way. Here the wood is a combo of pungent birch and civet, but it does not come over as offensive, so it just a very strong scent, a real gem. There are some subtle fruit/flower undertones as well. Longevity and sillage are pretty good when taking into account that this is a cologne.

I spent 2 weeks in August in Florence, and this was the only scent from Santa Maria Novella that survived for more than a quarter of an hour in the Tuscan heat. Very dry, with nothing sweet that my nostrils can detect, it makes me nostalgically happy, dreaming of an imaginary past that superposes the idyllic images of Florence and the elegance of the people who wore this scent when it was launched, back in 1801. Leather, smoky and woody is what sums it up for me. Manliness and simplicity. Dark beauty!

Wood, smoke and leather. You'll smell like a spanish horse rider born in 1878. It's basically a fresher, dryer and more enigmatic choice than Gucci Guilty or Jo Malone Bronze Wood/Leather. Either I am ignorant, or I have misunderstood something, but I really don't know why SMN calls this a cologne. You certainly don't have to reapply this, and it lasts for weeks if you spray it on clothing. It may be a bit watery but the performance is something between EdT and EdP, leaning towards EdP.

The opening is a byproduct of pyrogenated/dry-distilled wood, and is quite phenolic - prepare for this. But as it settles, it becomes quite sublime. Powdery millefleurs composed of jasmine, rose and violets, sitting on a woody, smoky base, upifted with castoreum (to me, this fragrance has more castoreum character and not much if any civet). Long lasting and evocative - of simpler times in medieval Tuscany. A great souvenir from an Italian vacation.

Birch bomb with flowers and a touch of civet for good measure. Really old school blend, vintage, with substance. Absolutely gourgeous. Puts most of the modern leathers, that are dosed carefully not to upset or are infused with sweetness just to blend in, to shame !!! Fantastic fragrance. Oriza L. Legrand's version is so close to this. Purchase any of them for the same wear.

The quintessential leather scent. This is genuine, rugged leather, one of the best leather fragrances of all time. Not just classic, but almost antique. If you’re tired of all those modern, sweet leather scents, this is the one for you. It definitely has a masculine character, but I can easily imagine that this is what Amelia Earhart or Katherine Hepburn might smell like.

Oh yes, come to mamma! This goes on a smokey tanning leather. No urine. A bit herbal almost. Curing leather. Not new car smell. Not leather jacket smell. As it dries down, it gets a bit of a birch mixed with myrrh scent. A little waft of incense. It's soft but not warm. Mmmmm for a leather lover. Different from any of the other leather frags I own.

It is amazing how SMN stays true to its formulas (one can only implore at the cathedral beside the shop that such grace endures). LVMH should look at this example while butchering Guerlain’s colognes, yet entitling themselves a luxury-group? In staying true, it is SMN the luxury house...

This is what a classic men's cologne should smell like! Peau D'Espagne has a rich, leathery scent that's both masculine and sophisticated. It reminds me of old libraries and vintage cars. The floral notes add a touch of sweetness without being overpowering.

A little spicy, somewhat animalic. Very much a reference leather. In the dry down, Peau D'Espagne turns powdery- a welcome shift as it brings depth to what would be an otherwise linear offering.

Such an amazing scent. The opening is a blast of animalic floral sweet that It's kinda fruity for me, like peach. It's heavy but ... IT IS UNISEX.

its all about leather and only spanish leather in citrus juice, love it but its not creative similar to any other spanish leather but extra sharp

the notes just work together so beautifully here it creates a really harsh smell at times which reminds me of faerenheit

Gorgeous! Extremely classic, rich, smoky, spicy, and sophisticated. Highly recommended.

A caveat. My review is based on an older, frosted bottle, hence, it might not smell like the ones Santa Maria Novella is selling today. This perfume is a tour-de-force on smoky birchwood and "leather" accord built around that and other materials (perhaps some animalics), with prominent flint-like/metallic and ashy nuances. I detect a quick burst of citrus and herbs in the opening for a couple of minutes, after which it goes dark and medieval with no return or glimmers of light. To my nose, no florals or resins to pamper the composition. Nada. It is heavy, smoky, and woody, with that ashy, cold metal feel and brown leather accord holding through the dry-down. I also don't get the civet, although it is listed, yet I'm sure they use some musks to create the leather sensation. This is a butch leather perfume that smells very ancient and medieval. I think of a massive fireplace with logs of birchwood fueling the fire that helps dry some leather garments resting on the cold stone pavement of the hall nearby. Some armory sits close since I can't shake the metallic and flint-like smell out of my mind. The perfume smells like it was put together at the beginning of the apothecary that Santa Maria Novella was centuries ago. I'm also impressed with the quality of the materials in this perfume. I can tell they are using a few, but very high-quality raw materials. I don't think I have smelled a better note of birchwood in a perfume before. I can almost see and feel the wood and its texture with my nose. In a nutshell, this is a beautiful smoky-leather perfume, grandiose in its butch and rough representation, although not exactly what I have in mind when I think of a proper "Peau D'Espagne" accord. But if you want a trip back in time, centuries ago, this one is very much worth the journey. IG:@memory.of.scents

Peau D'Espagne is a brash yet elegant leather scent from the distant past. Previous reviewers have done a fine job reviewing this beauty. The opening is dry, bitter, smokey, herbal and medicinal coupled with an ambience of old dirty black leather that has been left in an attic forgotten for many years. Simply astounding! It slowly transforms into a warmer scent with the help of amber, spices, patchouli, woods and other attractive notes while still maintaining the beautiful and brutal opening in the background. Eventually after many hours of dark masculinity you are left with a scent that smells like sun tanned skin rubbed with soft leather, flowers and warm spices. This is definitely masculine and not unisex! Much more masculine than Knize Ten. I just can't see a woman wearing this, but if there is one I am truly impressed! I am amazed at the quality of this Spanish Leather cologne. It lasts for over 12 hours on my skin and if you spray it on your clothes you can add many more hours of joy. I prefer to splash Peau D"Espagne rather than spraying. I find it more balanced to my nose. This has been around for over a hundred years and hopefully it will be around for another hundred years.

There are multiple fragrances with this name or the English translation of it (literally "Skin of Spain"--or more accurately, "Spanish Leather") because in the nineteenth century Europeans loved the smell of genuine Spanish leather, where the harsh tones of the leather were mitigated by the use of florals. The scents of individual fragrances named "Spanish Leather" varies widely from brand to brand, however, with some being heavily saturated with the smell of the flowers (like the beautiful Geo. F. Trumper perfume) to much harsher formulations that are much heavier on the leather note (like the Oriza L. Legrand version). This version, from 1901, is somewhere between those two extremes. It starts off almost purely with the birch tar approximating the leather (and in that way very much like the Legrand version) and also with quite a bit of animalic civet; but as it develops, the tar fades and it becomes softer and more floral (though never as heavily as Trumper's Spanish Leather). This seems very authentic to what was probably made fivescore years ago, and its development is certainly quite marked. I enjoyed this.

Oh my! This is some evocative stuff! Instantly, before my senses kicked in properly, I told myself "birch based leather". But that only lasted an instant. I quickly felt it change and thought it smelled exactly like elastoplast sticky plaster in a hospital....or that old medicine chest at your nanna's place that you'd go poking about in as a kid.... Then it got creepy... Like, if you broke into an abandoned house, where a really old person who had lived alone there for decades had died. The house is abandoned and in limbo, but there are still some of their possessions in there. You go to bathroom and open the old medicine cabinet and this is the smell you find inside it. Strange old antacid tablets, ancient band aids and wound creams, strange unidentifiable tinctures and odd bottles of old tablets. You close the cabinet door and there, standing behind you in the mirror you see..... ...her.

Gorgeous! Unusual but proper old school perfume. I blind bought a bottle, which arrived with 48 hours of ordering, because I’d had a sample of Peau d’Espagne from Oriza Legrand which I liked but thought it was a bit “rough!” I read the reviews and found the comparison to SMN Pd’E and ordered it straightaway. There’s an initial blast of medicinal birch tar but it quickly dies down and the old school florals bloom and a pungency takes centre stage. I think this is real oak moss mixed with cedar and violets maybe......It’s stunning and very different. I was a teenager in the 60’s and 70’s and my mother wore Mitsouko and Diorissimo, my first perfume was Shalimar in1970! Wow! So this is an echo of those days and it’s been beautifully formulated , beautifully wrapped, boxed and posted. Love my first SMN! 💝💝💝

Spencer Dutton from '1923' would smell like this. It's like leather boots that have just stamped out a camp-fire, and by 'camp' I don't mean effeminate! It's quite macho, though not brutal and not thuggish. It's uncompromising and although it's not easy on the nose, it is a tonic. My husband's wearing it today, though it's June (in Scotland, so temperate as opposed to sultry) and this is probably more suited to winter, yet if worn extremely lightly in summer, it has a refreshing dryness that works just right, especially since it reminds me of coal tar soap. Nice!

A very rustic an rough smelling leather scent. Released in 1901? I can't vouch for that but Peau D'Espagne definitely smells good. It shows a few clichè of traditional perfumery, and while smelling somewhat classic it still shows no aging. An ante-litteram animalic/tarry leather that smells much better than most of its successors. A must try for anyone into challenging, rough and extremely striking compositions. Terrific. Rating: 7.5/10

Piel de España,in spanish,its real name, got like 7 30 mls of it at a bargage shop and...this is strong,few people likes that one,but these few ones,loves it, old,real old,school,a little Aramis just to make a tiny comparison,few drops are more than enough and only in very cold days

Eau de cologne? I'm impressed. In terms of originality, sillage and longevity, this manly stuff exudes liveliness and potency. Cuir de Lancome on steroids, 100-plus years and still going strong. Men, dig in!

Simply put down:one of the better leather scent around. It develop a fierce masculine aurea and is elegant too!

Peau d’Espagne is a traditional style of leather scent — allegedly “Spanish” as opposed to the more common “Russian” variety (see the many perfumes known as “Cuir de Russie.) Both of them are less a reflection of animal hide itself than the various scents traditionally used to treat or perfume leather goods. Peau d’Espagne starts as a soft floral cologne-like scent with a strong rosemary note. surprisingly savory-herbal. A good half-hour in we start to get a kick of tarry leather. Where the leather blends with the herbs there’s a sort of rugged, cowboys-on-sagebrush feeling to it. I get a powerful sense of wide skies and riding tackle and chaparral scrub. Finally it opens into a remarkable, tenderly sweet styrax base, with almost a hint of anise in it. This cowboy is lonesome, and not even his boots of Spanish leather can console his broken heart.

Phwoar!... This is the stuff. The smell of the saddler's. A slightly medicinal opening develops into a fresh polish and squeaky new leatherwork accord. Dries down to an old-fashioned coal tar soap note after several hours. As leathers go this is peppery from the birch, oily from the civet, and soapy from the hawthorn and neroli. At its finest in cold weather. Don’t wear it if you’re planning on doing strenuous exercise. It can go a bit “boiled ham” if you work up a sweat

Leather, but not particularly distinctive.

Yikes. Strong animalic up front followed by iodine and then soap. Think imperial leather, betadine and band-aids. First aid kit / Bathroom cabinet smells. It's a statement. For me this was reminiscent of being sick with strep throat, gargling chemicals and salt. Scrapped knees and hand washing. Made me feel ill but cared for.

Smells like Detol. A hard look pass thanks.

Smells like Detol. A hard pass please!

"Spanish Skin", created in 1801, the year Florence was included in the short lived Spanish Kingdom of Etrurra, is leather for the Italian partisan. A unique treatment of Spanish leather with birch tar, and smokey undercurrents. Civetta that smells like sweet skin. Florals used to cure the figurative hide. And that stony Santa Maria Novella DNA we have come to expect and love. Santa Maria Novella's DNA is a smooth stone undercurrent. The sacristy, a room with cool and even temperature, was used by the friars to settle the waters used in pharmacy production (and once upon a time possibly perfume). I speculate that maybe the aroma inspired them. It's atmosphere pervades their scents. In this it magnifies the smokey birch and animalic notes to a medicinal level, where they have a camphorous quality. Along with a phantom anise/clove spice. Making the leather smell new, rugged and cross-grained. Once the accord settles, an unusual floral mix appears. Maybe from the hawthorne woven in, which has an odor described as similar to sweet decomposition. It strangely complements the leather, and faintly reminded me of vintage cosmetics in metal containers. My favorite stage is usually the opening of a perfume, but the drydown here is so different that I loved both equally. Peau D'Espagne has an 'Olde World' style quality that feels like wearing history. SMN opened their wares to the public in 1612, under the patronage of Catherine de Medici. A 'Perfumista Royale' who made Florence the the perfume capital of the world during the Renaissance. On display in SMN, are centuries-old handwritten books by the Dominican monks detailing their recipes, this 218 yr. old one included. It's exciting to wear the same scent worn by political Tuscan nobles conferring with Napoleon, made with the same ingredients from the pharmacy's garden. Then as today, timeless elegance.

This has to be the trickiest perfume i currently own. to me leather fragrances have to smell like leather jacket, couch etc. Standard in leather fragrances to me is Bois 1920 - Oro. It has leather that is clearly defined, and surrounded by other supporting notes, making it rugged and very civilized at the same time. It is interesting. Peau D'Espagne is a fragrance from old era. It does start with a nice thick leather-like kick, dominant by birch tar. That is what people usually smell from the bottle or on the test strip for first 5-10 mins and probably make their decision based on that at least i sure did. Also based on raving reviews i thought it would get darker from there becoming ultra masculine rude leather. I WAS WRONG! What it turns into is super soapy, like soap from old days, caustic soda basic soap smell with some mild herbs and birch tar darkness, giving it a bit of bitterness. It is a very very clean, nicely washed leather :D nothing dark about it. Density is big, silage is big, longevity is at least 8 hours. I will monitor for any change in the future, maybe it will continue to shift further. Cant say it is a bad smell, but surely not what i was expecting. Closest association is cowboy that just finishes bathing and shaved with straight razor and a shaving soap. Definitely try before you buy, dont blind commit to a full bottle.

The opening of this is very impressive. I was sceptical of other's reports, but it really 'blew me away' For the first hour on my skin it is the truest 'photorealistic' saddlery or leather for bookbinding. No excessive birch tar/cade 'smokey' quality...and it's not like shiny handbag or shoe leather...its more the smell of a piece of leather that you could do craftwork with..smooth one side and rough the other, almost creamy but with some edge and rather classy ......quite marvellous. To me, slightly on the masculine side of unisex. A 'happy surprise' and definitely wearable, and not challenging in the way I had expected. The drydown lasts and lasts, but on my skin unfortunately it is no longer characterised by the leather, but rather by a slightly herbal/subtle floral 'pastille' smell that I remember from childhood but cannot quite name. It is not in any way unpleasant, but on my skin which is a little dry, sadly the leather has gone. Maybe others will have a different experience. But, I would urge anyone who likes leather scents to try this. This not a pretty pretty floral leather, but it is so good. I am tempted to buy a bottle just for the first hour of it. Update - interesting addendum, after a shower, the close skin scent now has some of the leather note faintly back but with the herbal pastille quality also present subtly

I detest that old birch tar leather accord chestnut. It's greasy and nasty to my nose. This fragrance has taken the birch tar out of birch tar. Many years ago there was a Limara Body Spray that had a leather accord in it. It was the Stevie Nicks of fragrance waft, feminine and light with a real kinky undertone if you got close enough. Pea D'Espagne captures this perfectly. It is dry, crisp, herbal, it smells just like those stiff leather sandals you used to get in Hippie shops from India, like the stiff leather shoulder bags and saddles from spain, and, dare I say it, how one would imagine Jim Morrison's trousers would smell while he lay indolently in a field of grass, flowers and herbs - (yes, I actually DID imagine that, well, who wouldn't?). The Glastonbury Thorn note is beautifully evident. One of my favourite scents, when used correctly. I think it is the best, nay, the ONLY leather scent in the world, which is worth spending your hard earned pennies on. Very, very strong - my spill kept the scent for a week. Spray sparingly, and 24 hours in advance to let it dry down to it's beauty. I shall layer it with a whoosh of something floral, and become a flower child for a day, and by night, something altogether more dangerous.

Most of the reviews have done a great job describing the weirdness of Peau d'Espagne. Words like meaty, medicinal, herbal, and smokey are spot on, especially for the opening. However as it mellows, smokey florals emerge and the scent softens a bit into something you couldn't have predicted by its opening and no matter how many times I wear this, it always surprises me. To the guy who said he couldn't imagine a women wearing this, well I'm a woman and I love it. But I do have to admit, that most women would probably be put off by it, especially if they've been trained to think that women are supposed to want to smell like fruity florals. This is hard leather...I'm talkin' chaps or jackboots...not for the faint of heart. I stood for hours in the Santa Maria Aouvella boutique smelling EVERY scent they had to make sure that my first purchase of one of their scents was one I'd be happy with. Peau d' Espagne is what I decided on in the end and the sales assistant (a woman) was very surprised at my final choice.

Saddlery leather unlike any other, Peau d'Espagne is a remarkable old world concoction that presents itself boldly and unapologetically—this my own personal reference leather, not any suederal- and safraleine-packed modern interpretation. This is the OG leather, as it were. It opens with what I consider a sensory thrill evokes Santa Maria Novella's apothecary origins: it is fiercely phenolic, medicinal, somewhat iodine-like, encapsulated in powdery-spicy hawthorn and carnation that amplifies into the heart. I almost imagine that it's the aroma of a cobbler shop in the 19th century, complete with wafts from the polish; bitter, aromatic, herbal elements shape this sensation. As we enter further into the heart of Peau d'Espagne, we get more of a classic saddle soap accord accompanied by what really seems to be a genuine civet note that animates this stage in the development. The base is the most beautiful, dry, dusty, dark cedar imbued with birch tar smoke. I am in love with this dark masterpiece.

Stopping by the Santa Maria Novella flagship is a favorite activity of mine and on a recent visit upon sampling many of their offerings, this one remains in my memory. There's something about SMN fragrances that recall the deep history that the company was founded on and they quite literally have an antique quality about them. It's so hard to describe but although each fragrance is different, they share an underlying old-fashioned type of profile. With that being said, this one stopped me in my tracks and stood out from the rest. Immediately I made a connection of meat being grilled on a barbeque. Instead of this jarring connection repulsing me, it instead fascinated me and I kept testing it over and over. To me, it's smoky, spicy, with a hint of sweetness. Definitely interesting and unique and unlike the other offerings from SMN.

Hands down the darkest and driest leather I've ever smelled, yet it smells like there is no birch tar in it! Intensely aromatic and herbal, Peau d'Espagne magically manages to create a realistic, dark leather accord without the use of oily, sweet or petroleum notes. The resinous, bitter herbs come together like a puzzle and amazingly create one of the most realistic leather accords I've ever smelled in a perfume. After several hours, the leathery smell dies down, revealing a black, dry and earthy patchouli base. Bravo! Peau d'Espagne is a must try for any fan of leather or dry herbal scents. It will impress even the most jaded fan of leather perfumes. MY RATING: 9/10

Some leather fragrances give you a hint of suede; SMN's Peau d'Espagne gives you the whole cow. And not just a docile, grass-munching Holstein, but a full-blooded, impressively-muscled, double-horned Spanish Bull, ready to charge and kill. This is an extraordinary fragrance, beginning with an overwhelming dose of antiseptic, before drying down into folds and folds of sun-dried, hardened leather. I love to wear it on a winter's day when reading an old book in the library. I feel at one with the antique odours of parchment and vellum, swathed in the perfumes of another age.

Mover over, Kouros. *This* is the prototypical masculine urinal cake fragrance. This leather is the one leather to rule them all. The opening is challenging, being intolerably smoky, animalic and practically a scrubber for the first fifteen minutes. Although the fragrance does not transform a whole lot, it does become a bit more agreeable as the hours pass. This is an out-and-out masculine and not for the casual wearer of the typical aquatic freshies. A tour-de-force that can challenge even an experienced nose, this is a unique and remarkable fragrance.

🐎Conquistador 🐎 It’s midday, the sun is high, and the air trembles with heat. I feel my leather saddle beneath me – hot, heavy, soaked with sweat and dust. My horse shifts nervously from hoof to hoof, its coat blending with the scent of the leather boots and gloves I wear. In the background lingers a note of dry herbs, tobacco, smoke – and a sharp, metallic hint of gunpowder from my musket. The intensity hangs in the air: we don’t know if the next bend brings a skirmish, or if we’ll manage to avoid an ambush. @the.scent.files

LEATHER SPEAKS VOLUMES I'm in the oldest library in spain and I'm the first person in a few hundred years to take off the shelf an medieval astrological volume. I open it - and this fragrance is what I smell. So dry. So dusty. So rich. So (old, very old) leather. Lasts forever. Thankfully the projection is somewhat restrained so I was not overly self conscious. This is not for me - but I am quite certain there are those who will not only love it, but who can carry it off beautifully.