Graal

Graal was released in 2015 and already has a reformulated version. That's because the perfumer Sanderson Santana identified that his creations could be improved, not for technical reasons, but for pure personal and professional perfectionism. According to official information, Graal features notes of Calabrian bergamot, rosemary, lavender, carnation leaves, nutmeg and bay rum essential oil on the top of the composition. Then, notes of jasmine, muguet, Palo Santo and wild honey, in the heart of the fragrance. All of this rests over a base of oud, leather, tobacco, vanilla, patchouli from Singapore, myrrh from Siam, sandalwood, amber and beeswax. And just as I did in the analysis of Vanille Noir, I will draw a brief comparative between both versions. But before, it is worth explaining to anyone who does not know, what is this pepper Bay (bay rum). The bay rum is known for presenting a typical smell of brandy and cloves, quite strong. With regard to the fragrances, both versions are delicious. They show greater similarity as they evolve, but still manage to maintain unique characteristics. To be honest, I do not know what has changed, since such information does not appear on Sapientiae's website. In terms of fragrance, the old version seems to me a little more balsamic, with a fougère content, in which I also feel more aromatic nuances. In the current version, which is available for sale, the output is almost almond-shaped, with a fairly controlled Bay Rum, which is not easy to be done. Over time, Graal brings the floral-green side of the lily of the valley (muguet) and jasmine, which is not usually explored in this manner, as jasmine is always used in white, milky and indolic florals. Then we have the base of the fragrance, of which I perceive a lot of myrrh, amber and beeswax. I have already commented about this ingredient in other reviews, but it is always good to reinforce that it does not smell like honey. I also feel the presence of the tobacco used, as well as a slight touch of leather, but I was not surprised by the vanilla or the oud, which is usually very noticeable. Graal is a perfume with a lot of presence and that conveys elegance to me. It has a proposal that reminded me of Santos, de Cartier (I said proposal, not smell). However, although it is made for both genres, I do not know how it will react on female skin, considering that I think it is a perfume more aimed at the male audience, unlike Vanille Noir, who is clearly unisex. Worth (a lot) experiencing.

From all perfumes that I have from this house this one is the most difficult one of them(so far). It’s a very heavy spicy scent on the way out,the notes are barely noticeable,to be fair it’s a mess but the good thing it don’t last very long. When all the messiness goes away,I can really smell the Rosemary,Cloves and Nutmeg right off the bat with a very booze scent from the Rum. After that the smell become really pleasant and comfortable,the sweetness from the Honey and Palo Santo makes the Tobacco note one of the best Tobaccos I ever smelled. In the dry down the scent is very woody and resinous but it’s a very good thing because close the fragrance with class Longevity:10-12h Projection:2-4h Silage:Strong-Enormous

The great “forehead” of Sapientiae, yes it is indeed a giant perfume in all aspects; something quite extraordinary which is not easy to find out there, however, on my skin it referred to some perfumes there that marked and still marks the segment around the world, however, I will mention only two, which are more than enough, the namely, Lui Rochas from Rochas and Maroussia from Slava Zaitsev. I don't consider my olfactory associations to the Grail blasphemous, because olfactory perception is something so subjective that any dispute about it, I would consider unshakable compared to what I assume earlier, because for me, this is how the fragrance behaves and period. Life goes on! On the way out Graal carries a lot of shattered Rosemary, disorganized that gives an air of spicy sweet bread in the fragrance, I can already feel a lot of Carnation in wood heated in boiling water, yes the carnations are really hot and sting in the nostrils merging with the raw alcoholic odor of Rum , big smell of oak barrels with fermented and then distilled drink running down and wetting the floor! Between the exit and the heart is where, for me, the claws of Lui Rochas emerge; a serious sweet odor with woody and also spicy nuances, which in Lui de Rochas, if exaggerated, sprays easily lead to migraines. Not that both fragrances are or contain the same notes, however, the whole of the work refers to each other, and with ease. At the base, I find similarity to the oriental strength of Maroussia, fiery cedar, earthy and aromatic Patchouli, earthy and honeyed sweet amber, non-gourmand adult vanilla with a robust and not cloying aspect, woody sandalwood softened by a milky sap, and a lot of leather that give a air of virility, but it is dominated by the slightly medicinal touch of the Oud, which is neither a protagonist nor a supporting player here, just a note that complements the others. Grail is necessary for lovers of a good complex perfume, without many edges, as it dignifies those who use it! Average/satisfactory fixation (on me) and more than excellent projection.

Drydown is virtually the same as in Vetiver de noir. I have both and wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between them after 10 minutes, although I feel Vetiver de noir is a better pick and smells a bit rounder. If you have tried Vetiver de noir, this one is not worth trying. If you don’t like l’air du désert marocain, run away from both Vetiver de noir âne Graal.