Ambre Sultan

This to me will always be the paragon of ambers. In 2008, I wandered into Barney's in Copley Square Boston and discovered the wide world of high-end and niche fragrance (before I believe "niche" was even really a descriptor) and was struck by their Serge Lutens counter and its display of understated, elegant and somewhat austere bottles. I was really immediately drawn in by the dense and complex scents, otherworldly and enchanting to me at the time. The saleswoman offered me samples of three: Chergui, Arabie, and Ambre Sultan. I was smitten with all three and went on my way, using these small atomizers sparingly so as to relish them. Shortly thereafter, I flirted with fragrance buying, having purchased a handful of others in the next year or two (a couple of which were somewhat regrettable decisions in retrospect: Bond No. 9 Coney Island, yikes). However, curiously enough, I never bought a full bottle of any Serge Lutens. My collection only grew to about may 10 or so bottles at one point and I then started to direct my attention elsewhere. Fast forward about seven years later, and the art of perfume making caught my attention after purchasing a few bottles of essential oil to diffuse. I continued pretty consistently but have never taken to another level, due to fear and anxiety of the sheer dedication and amount of money that must be invested to start a fragrance line and a small business in general (I am feeling more and more confident as of late, stay tuned). This has led, however, to much deeper appreciation for fragrance and scent, studying hundreds of natural materials and aromachems, learning from mentors in the fragrance community, collecting and educating myself through fragrance composition books, studying the history of perfume, and then came 2020. 2020, the year of horror, disbelief, anger, tragedy, and sadness in multitudes: I will leave it at that. What would preoccupy me during all this difficult stuff? Somehow, 2020 was also the year that out of nowhere, I decided, why not buy a few full bottles of some fragrances that I love and appreciate (a few he says, a FEW). I caught the full bottle bug, as it were, and I am just now trying to reign it in—and it hasn't even been a full calendar year! I finally purchased bottles of Chergui, Arabie, and Ambre Sultan, twelve or so years later (and I didn't stop there as far as Serge Lutens is concerned, no doubt). So I sit here, with it sprayed on the interior on my forearm, and I periodically sniff through each stage of its development and big love is still there. That opening is rapturous bliss, warm, sweet and resinous, then in the dry down, the oregano, bay leaf, angelica, and myrtle, these are what sing on my skin in the most wonderfully peculiar manner; ahhhh...this is what got me hooked, this left field of herbal melange with animalic undertones. Then it dries in time to a dry myrrh and somber, dusty labdanum, with an outline of benzoin and vanilla; mythical, even transcendental to my nose. What I've learned in my full bottle journey this year is sometimes you go back "home" to what initiated that spark, what ignites that passion, drives one's desire and is a reminder of what is essential, These are indulgences of what are sensory and sensual, after all. Will I continue to acquire more? Yes, but one most slow down and eventually stop somewhere—it has already surpassed what could be considered practical or even dare I say healthy (I've been a voracious collector at heart since I was single-digit aged). I do think, however, that if I had to stop here, I'd be happy that I finally have a bottle of my Ambre Sultan.

A lot of Serge Lutens perfumes are criticized for essentially being bases sold as complete perfumes. This is completely correct, particularly in the case of Ambre Sultan. However, do not let that lead you to a conclusion that Ambre Sultan, or others, are anything less than stellar. At the time this was released it was far from being a typical amber, but here we are, more than 30 years later, and many perfumers and critics consider it a template amber - the gold standard, the bar for ambers of this century as opposed to the classic ambers of the Shalimar style. The primary reason for this is Ambre Sultan's shocking bitter and dry qualities, and its incredible execution. Firstly, there are green and herbal top notes that are so strikingly dry and aromatic you can almost taste the bitter chlorophyll. But just as soon as you smell it, it is completely gone (part of the argument for this being a base rather than a complete perfume in the classical sense; you could be excused for not noticing the herbs if you don't take a whiff of the perfume immediately after application). What comes next is what you get for the remaining life of the fragrance: the standard balsams, benzoin, vanilla and tonka, patchouli, and incense. People have gone on and on about Ambre Sultan over the years, so I'll keep this next part brief. There are two things, to my nose, that make it special, part of which I've already touched on: the first is the perfect execution. Not near perfect; as far as I can tell, it is perfect. Every single note is singing at the perfect pitch and volume. Their voices sustain the notes in perfect clarity to an even lifespan with each other. It is rich without being cloying, overly dense, or suffocating - managing to present its decadent richness with seductive diffusiveness and breathability. Keeping to the theme presented by the bitter green herbs, the amber notes are equally dry to the point of almost being bitter. For example, the vanilla note as I perceive it is not a baking extract sweetened with sugar, it's more like the bitter and dry oils squeezed directly from the vanilla bean onto my skin. The second reason why it is special to me is the incense note, that gorgeous resinous myrrh smoke that runs throughout every seam and crack of the other amber notes. I get this exact image of cold dry tendrils of silken gray smoke weaving their way through door locks, gently sweeping across a room by the brush of an imperceptible breeze, hovering weightless in the air without any texture as you walk through it. It fills-in the perfume with beautiful smoothness and elegance. Is this my favorite amber? Tricky question since ambers are probably my least favorite genre of perfumes. But yes, I would have to say that it is, in what is the "new classic" style. Ambre Russe by Parfum d'Empire is a lot more interesting, and probably my favorite "new" amber, but it was given permission for existence by Ambre Sultan. Nearly all modern ambers who try to twist this classic genre owe many of their ideas and permissions to Ambre Sultan, and for that reason it's a classic among classics.

II have not met a Amber that i remotely like or love, not that i have encountered many so as to speak. However, there is only one word i can describe when i encountered this Amber.... Love. Ambre Sultan.... This is my very first niche fragrance which i decidedly to finally take the plunge on the very same day that i encounter it. Usually i took quite a while to get the full sized bottle (the usual rite- spray some of it on the wrist and walk around for at least 1 hour and decide if i really like it, then deliberate a little on everything and anything and finally to the cashier), especially when there is no discount going on, so its the full retail price. THIS is dangerous stuff... why? I was window shopping and stumbled upon the Fragrance section which is sort of hidden in the inner part of the Mall and i was actually there to check out the Burberry Makeup collection, it was never my intention to part with my money for anything apart from that. Until, the moment i stepped into the Fragrance section and was drawn to the Serge Lutens Fragrance display whereby i reached out for the bottle with amber gold that struck my eyes...... Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan. The liquid amber. At the first whiff, it hits on me strongly and i was taken aback by the force of the fragrance. It was really potent, nothing that i ever had in my stash or came across. I wasn't put off by it, but rather i was surprised by it and wasn't thinking of purchasing it at all, until i continued with my mission of checking out Burberry's makeup collection. As i continued my shopping, i began to notice the potent thick spicy and maybe a little woody scent began to work its magic on my wrist.....it began to have a certain sweetness to it, a hint of vanilla to me while retaining its spicy character. The fragrance smells warm and luxurious for most part and then it further evolved into a scent that i associate with things vintage (for instance a lit fireplace library with tall wooden bookshelves and a old leather armchair). The amber gold liquid developed into a being with a subtle tone of spiciness with a hint of wood and vanilla, very warm and cozy, something i would reach out for if i were ever left in the cold. It does have a middle eastern element (from the name to the colour of the fragrance, everything) which i find it most acceptable and certainly wearable to me even in this humid and hot weather, which it lasts a good 8 hours at least on me. This is certainly one of the most complex fragrance i have ever worn and owned and yes, it opened my "nose" to the world of niche perfumery (which can only mean more additions to my stash and wearing the precious liquid amber carefully) and the Ambers. Note: I do not possess any technical knowledge or sophistated vocabulary to "flower"my review about it so i am going to describe it the best i can with my layman understanding of it.

Some fragrances require you to commit to them and Ambre Sultan is definitely one of those. It is one of the references for amber in modern perfumery which is interesting in itself because it is in many ways a very old school style fragrance with a very traditional feel, blended in a quintessentially European style. The first thing you notice when you spray it is how deep and rich it is which is to be expected from an amber fragrance, but also how aromatic and dry greeny it is, which is not. I sprayed it yesterday and my partner raised an eyebrow and said "you smell like old school money". She's right. This is a complex and quite heavy scent that focuses on the relationship between a gorgeously rich amber note and a lineup of green herbs and some spices that are heavier and more stringent than you expect. You have bayleaf, basil, oregano, coriander and I think some cumin that smell like my kitchen but in a really nice way. It is uncompromising at first but the aromatics aren't medicinally difficult and this never feels synthetic. The amber is apparent in the head, heart and base of this fragrance and is very much a showcase of its sweetness and resinous texture. In the base it takes on this wonderfully hedonistic, quite indulgent feel with a generous double measure of vanillic benzoin, that seems almost to counterpoint the greener, slightly herbal Tuscan kitchen vibe opening. That sees Ambre Sultan go sweeter and richer in the drydown and I personally find that the most enjoyable part of wearing this. Deconstructing this fragrance by note sort of misses the point though. It is very much a vibe; this one is all about how it feels to wear it. You do need to be a confident sort of person to carry it off and it is most certainly not a casual wear, or indeed I would say a very regular reach. This is a special occasion thing for moments where you want refined but powerful individuality and in that sense is classically Serge Lutens and quintessentially Christopher Sheldrake. They do not really do daily wearers in any classic interpretation of that term anyway, and have made creative and delicate top end niche perfumery a bit of a hallmark. Ambre Sultan is most definitely that. As with all the others of this wonderful house that I own, I love smelling it from the bottle for absolutely no reason at all, almost as much as wearing it. Layering Suggestion: A base layer for Spiriteuse Double Vanilla by Guerlain. Trust me. It is one of my all time favourite layering combos. Three Word Summary: Resinous, Herby Amber Scent - 7/10 Drydown - 9/10 Sillage - 8/10 Bottle/packaging - 7/10 Performance - 8/10 39/50

This is what i would refer to as quintessential niche perfumery. It is bold, it doesn't pull back punches with the notes, it's unapologetic with the direction it goes with, it's not afraid to turn some people off - even the most experimental and brave designer perfumes will compromise at least partially. Ambre Sultan - when people say "herbal and spicy" this is what it means. It's like huffing straight from a bag with mixed herbs and spices in the openings, and at the bottom of the bag there are freshly scraped off a tree trunk resins, that give it warm balsamic smoothness as it is drying down. The words cannot truly convey how realistic the feeling of all described above is.. there is not a hint of artificiality here. With that scent profile, one would imagine this would last a week on skin, but as it is the case with all scents that do not utilize synthetic aroma chemicals, this is not the case - i would say it has moderate projection and longevity on skin, but the drydown can linger as a skin scent at least for 24h. Overall, this is a classic niche scent. And by the very definition of the word "niche" it is not to everyone's taste, but i wouldn't call it "polarizing" or anything. Its niche in the sense that the noses trained on designer perfumery will be initially put off by how much the scent doesn't care to be safe or mass pleasing. In the same vein as the tastebuds accustomed to drinking supermarket quality whisky such as Johnny blue label or Royal Salute in a big tumbler with ice, are shocked when tasting neat unchill filtered, naturally colored cask strength quality Single Malt for the first time - "what the F*** is this? This burns, this is undrinkable!" but given time and experience, they start to appreciate the details, the quality, the natural feeling, the taste and aroma bucket that have not being processed through the corporate mass market filters. Same thing goes with perfumery such as Serge Lutens "Ambre Sultan". This is not a 500$ "panty dropper", it's resins, herbs and spices done right. If you are into such a thing, you will be delighted to own it. 50ml testers go for 50$, so i would call it better value than 99,9% of what designer and most of the niche world can offer, especially the so called designer house "elixirs" or pseudo-niche houses like PdM.

I always liked Ambre Sultan. For a long time all I got was a simple amber, but done with gorgeous materials: mainly a dark vanilla with labdanum and a smidge of benzoin. It was good. I kept it for winter. Depending on time, temperature etc I would either get 1: a cozy toasted marshmallow smell. Or 2: a deep and mysterious roman crypt with light from burning torches dancing across the stone walls, but there is a gladiator hiding there, snacking on some marshmallows, with dried strawberry milk ice cream spilt on the floors. Then I discovered how gorgeous Ambre Sultan is in the heat of summer nights. In the warmth I would get black balsamic licorice nuances. After two years of living with it, i got more and more of the aromatic notes listed (which scared me in the beginning) The opening is where you can smell them, mostly a dusty but soothing Laurel. There is also a very sophisticated but sort of old fashioned musk in the base. I totally love this perfume both for freezing winter and sultry summer evenings. For leisure and dressed up aituations. I love the old palais logo editions the most, it wears like an extrait version of the one available now, which is superb too, it is just not as thick. Ambre Sultan comes with huge projection and great longevity no matter the season. It feels regal, sometimes it's an ancient potion, other times simply that cozy sweet you crave. Totally a steal at the prices you can get this for. Like so many before me, I will state, this is an Amber for life!

Vintage from 2003: fucking dirty resin. Oregano. Sweetness in the amber and myrrh. Dirty hippy patchouli. Almost peppery aromatic herbs. Never smelled anything like this, at first, not sure if I like it, but I can’t forget about this. An hour or two in: everything is toned down but still present to a point that it is still beautiful, but bearable (and wearable). The vanilla is more prominent now too, and the paper I sprayed it on, two feet away, gives off scent that I can still smell in waves. At hour 3 or 4 this becomes suitable for public wear. At hour 1 it is so strong that, in my boyfriend’s words, it’s the equivalent of flashing lights to a photosensitive epileptic. It’s at its most beautiful at hour two or 3 when the blast wears off. This 2003 edition is a powerhouse and I hope/am afraid that the 2020s version has similar qualities. But maybe I don’t know what’s good for me, and too much of a good thing is possible. To me, this perfume evokes heartbreak. Loss of one’s homeland. Animalic sweat- sexy. Dirty feelings. Knowing what I know about Serge Lutens, this perfume was definitely made by a guy with an Oedipus complex about his Middle Eastern mother who abandoned him in France and had to create a whole sexy-dirty orientalist story to get over it. 10/10 messed up people should make art.

This is pure magic on my skin, 26° summer weather and this is going to be up there in my top 3 perfumes. This is a lacquered cedar chest full of spices and resins being bartered over with a man carrying two sacks of freshly picked herbs - oregano and patchouli are conspicuous. Men are sipping fragrant tea sweetened with rare honey and there are plates of Indian sweets on the tables. A dry gust of wind passes briefly and carries the musk of horses and their riders. This is what Ghenghis Khan would have smelled like. I love it when a perfume tells me a story and this one is more of a saga. I applied it around 1030 am and it's pumping off my skin almost 12 hours later. Absolutely perfect hot weather fragrance for me, but I will rock it any time except for maybe rainy days because it wouldn't fit the story. The benzoin in this is done to perfection too and creates a deep, resinous vanillic dryness, the myrrh gives incense but not church style. The oregano is applied in a much better way than Interlude Man which I don't like and it brings out the notes of the wood and resins. The patchouli is rare and camphorous in the opening, and the bay gives it a masculine, slightly barbershop nuance. This is dense, chewy and sweaty but in a good way. God made me Funky And this is funkadelic!

I've come around on ambre sultan, in my first review i was almost bashing it and calling it mid in a sense, because i expected a big resinous amber as i repeatedly heard it described as "the best amber in the game" and it wasn't that for me! i expected a middle eastern oriental style of amber, very thick very resinous and rich, but it was total opposite, it's a very transparent french style amber, airy, not dense at all, i'd even describe it as thin. after i erased all expectations from my head and judged it as a composition without expectations is when i started appreciating it, it's very spicy in the opening and it's a little challenging to me just because that's not the type of amber i enjoy, a spicy amber is what im referring to, and this is pretty much a transparent spicy amber, more spicy than ambery in the first 10-15 mins then it goes into a vanillic slightly sweet amber, has a waxy component about it for sure but it never comes across as thick or cloying which is something i've come to like about it, it wears very elegant and classy, it's a brilliant composition even thought it's not my "ideal" amber.

Please don't overspray like I did... I feel nauseous and have a stomachache now LOL! You unfortunately can't go noseblind to resinous smells quick... so prepare to smell this for a while. In fact, I can almost taste it too. That aside, this stuff slaps. It's mature and sophisticated smelling, sweet and thick resins on a clean fragrance backbone. Vanilla completes the sweet dimension. Aromatics give a nice savory bite. Animalic though not in the skanky-nasty way... but in a naturalistic way (like something you'd smell in a forest... think herbs, sap, nectar, pine, etc.) Not very ‘mystical’ smelling, I feel like it's trying to be since it's a "niche" house. It still smells inherently 'perfume-y'. I layered with Patchouli 24 - Le Labo the other day and it gave it an amazing benzoiny, incense + bonfire-esque smell. Only then can it smell super mystical and ancient. Dress up and look nice if you want this to smell good in front of others, because the smell is STRONG! Lasts a whole day, projects big 2-3 hours. GREAT... staple amber! luxurious and very stable! Perfect on its own or for layering! 9/10.

Perhaps the most artistic expression of Amber out there. It is full of facets, at times contradictory and other times in harmony. It is like looking at abstract expressionist painting - I don't really know where it starts and where it ends, but I suppose I know what it's about. The opening was medicinal, then it turns smokey, then spicy & sparkly, then dark and deep, then smooth and sweet - all the time while retaining an absolutely gorgeous golden warmth of amber. But i found each of those "notes" sparkles again and again at different times - even in its dry down. Among all ambers, this is the odd one out. It is amber gone idiosyncratic, a bit misbehaved, a bit kooky. It's a sultan goes nomad, a prince goes racy, a duchess goes kinky I plan to wear this to that eventual invitation of my ex's wedding, or that snobbish gallery opening (when i plan to make scathing comments about all the paintings), or when I submit my resignation letter to my CEO, or to the funeral of my rich aunt whom I have hated since I was 15.

Ambre Sultan really is a fantastic reference Amber, for those that want to familiarise themselves with this fragrance family more, but it’s so much more than that. This is easily one of the best ambers on the market even today, which is seriously impressive given how cheap it can be found online. It takes Amber into a more aromatic direction than you might expect. The Amber accord itself is very rich - heaps of dry, thick resins and powdery woods resting on just a whisper of sweet, creamy vanilla. Before this gets too warm however, this dense aromatic herbaceous-ness comes into play which is utterly sublime; what smells like bay leaf which is both dry and green, leafy and stemmy which somehow complements the antagonist notes perfectly. I adore this fragrance, it’s easily one of the best from Serge Lutens and for the price it would be insane not to own it. I’m going to thoroughly enjoy wearing this sample and will hopefully pick up a full bottle very soon. Incredible perfumery here.

To put it simply, Ambre Sultan is a tale of two accords. You have the amber side dressed up with amber, myrrh, vanilla, and benzoin as the standouts. On the other side you get the beautiful green accord to balance it out and bring in the unique earthy accord with coriander, oregano and angelica (oregano being the king standout on that side). These two accords play magically together. As the fragrance plays out, you get a nice warm overall feeling without feeling like your blasting everyone out of the water. The scent is strong but the sillage hugs close. Because Ambre Sultan carries so many blended notes, you can trick your brain into picking out lots of different profiles as the day goes on. Sometimes you're picking up heavily on the sweet side and at others you're getting that earthy green side with all the vegetation. If you like mature fragrances, this one will be up your alley. It has enough going on that I feel like it is timeless. It can be enjoyed by men and women alike.

Ambre Sultan is truly an extraordinary blend of aromas, one that stands apart from most other amber fragrances. Much of its uniqueness comes from the bitter, resinous opening, yet despite that sharpness, the composition remains sweet in its own way—dense, almost viscous. It is perhaps this striking contrast that secured the great success of Lutens and Sheldrake’s creation. Today, Ambre Sultan has become nothing short of a legend. There is something deeply alluring and seductive in its resinous aroma, making it a fragrance one reaches for with pure delight. This kind of sensual, balsamic sweetness simply cannot be found elsewhere. While officially marketed as a unisex scent, I find Ambre Sultan to lean noticeably toward the masculine side—a true man’s amber. It performs beautifully in the colder months, and though I wouldn’t call it a cuddly fragrance, it undeniably radiates a comforting warmth. Like rays of sunlight captured in amber. My rating: Highly recommended! (7/7)

Mesmerising, insanely beautiful, pure luxe, the OG amber perfume. Both wearable and very unique, bold and refined. Unlike many other reviewers, I don't find Ambre Sultan masculine leaning, it's genderless and smells fantastic on the right woman (or man). The "herbaceous" notes of bay leaf and oregano are tangible, but do not smell like homely kitchen spices at all. Yes, they may remind you of a Middle Eastern souk, spices and dried fruits exuding their rich smell into the heated air. It is sweet, but naturally sweet, like ripe fruits, never synthetic. The texture of this perfume is velvety-powdery, it's somehow both very present and soft, like a touch of someone who knows you very well and who cares. Extremely comforting, cocooning, but also seductive. In my opinion, Ambre Sultan still smells very modern. I love love love it, if you want to get an amber perfume, look no further, buy this. It is also relatively affordable while smelling like a million bucks.

This one took me some time to figure out. At first, that sour, dry herbal quality, completely threw me off. It's pungent and a bit peculiar, I didn't like it at first but it smelled strangely addictive in the air, especially once it settled down, I was about to write it off but something drew me back to it, I kept mulling over it, occasionally dabbing the sample on the back of my hand, and eventually, it clicked. This is a masterpiece. There's definitely a certain harshness to it, it's disheveled and completely parched, it almost makes you thirsty, there's dirtiness lurking underneath and it's constantly on the verge of turning into something sinister, but it never does, instead, as it dries down it becomes soft and warm and deeply intoxicating. It's pure comfort in a bottle and I reckon there's something really seductive about it. I don't know if it's love or just Stockholm Syndrome but I'm way past caring. I'm buying one.

Oh my gosh this is heavenly. I don't even care if some may say it's reformulated, if in fact that's even true. I have a recent bottle and this will make your eyes roll back in your head. The best way I can describe this fragrance is this: It's a cold, brisk evening in the early fall. You just got out your cozy sweater for the first time this year and you're sitting by the fireplace. You're tired from a long day, just had a good workout and hot shower. You got that sweater on with your favorite pair of jeans and some warm socks. Now your having a perfect meal with your favorite beer, sitting in your cozy chair, right after sundown with the fire crackling. You started The Man Who Knew Too Much and you're grateful just be alive to experience this state of utter bliss. The final ingredient to bring this perfect moment into full cozy Nirvana is two sprays of Ambre Sultan. Everything just melts away. This is autumn in a bottle.

My grandparents used to work for British Petroleum and lived in all manner of places, including Paris, Bombay (Mumbai), Lagos, and Baghdad before settling in Montreal. Everywhere they traveled they had this massive chest containing all manner of souvenirs from these places. Whenever I got the chance to go over to their house I would rummage through it and be captivated in wonder of the pictures of the temples, monuments, and landscapes, some of which I still wonder stand after all these decades. Why am I waxing nostalgic about some old chest my grandparents lugged around for years on a perfume review site? Because Serge Luten's Ambre Sultan smells of that chest. The spice, the warmth, a sense of longing, and a cocoon of nostalgia. Maybe it's because its Christmas at the time of writing and my grandparents have long since passed, but this perfume evokes that sense of wonder and imagination I've not thought about in years.

Blind-tested, and this is what I guessed: amber, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, charred wood. Challenging for me in the beginning. Perhaps because it’s a swampy Second Summer-type day out here. But around about 20 minutes in, I was sold. It’s arresting! Some combination of notes is insanely intoxicating and has transfixed me. An interesting union of aromatic herbs and spices with amber, resins, and subtle tacky sweetness. Glorious complexity. I’ll freak for this in the cold months. Oregano, CORIANDER, angelica, BAY LEAF, myrtle, MYRRH, vanilla, PATCHOULI, tolu balsam, LABDANUM, styrax, BENZOIN, amber, SANDALWOOD. I like the sound of that! Smells even better. Ambre Sultan is a most masterful creation. An opulent, warm, thick, come-hither, amber overdose resin bomb. Love it on my skin, but I’ll call it masculine-leaning. Grand Soir, Schmand Schmoir? NOT SO FAST. I want both. MASTERPIECE

I blind bought this, and without hesitation, it smells exactly like the cheap hair oil my Indian barber always tries to put on my hair after a haircut. I keep telling him not to use it because I can't stand the smell. To be fair, I can see why some people might find this fragrance interesting or even addictive. It definitely has character. But for me, the core scent is awful. I think the heavy herbal and culinary spice notes in this fragrance completely ruin it. Update: I owe this fragrance an apology. After wearing it several more times, my opinion changed completely. This is actually an excellent amber fragrance with outstanding performance, a refined and elegant character, and impressive longevity. I think it is particularly well suited to those over 35, as it has a mature and sophisticated style. I highly recommend giving it a proper chance before judging it—I certainly did.

WOW, Gorgeous Fragrance ! Elegant, Herbal, Spicy, Airy, Complex and Unique. In my opinion, Ambre Sultan is a MASTERPIECE . This review is based on the new reformulation bottle. Ambre Sultan and Chergui were on my radar and I bought Ambre Sultan blind-buy after reading the positive comments and watched reviews on YouTube, l will buy Chergui next time. It opens up with slightly medicinal, herbal, resinous and spices notes in the background then dry down is semi sweet warm spicy, balsamic resinous, ambery and woody. The Oregano, Coriander, Resins and Myrrh notes are dominant in this perfume. I love The Myrrh note and I buy perfumes that have it. This is perfect for the Cold Weather, Longevity is very good. If you like Soft , Gentle and Unique Ambery Style Perfume, You will like Ambre Sultan. Highly Recommended. Two Thumbs Up. Bravo Serge Lutens! Rating : 8.5 / 10

I've had this perfume for a year, and when I first opened it upon purchase I regretted the blind buy...because I was so overwhelmed with oregano, bold and big and dry. An "old kitchen cupboard" tide of spice, and it was truly asphyxiating to me. Dry and dusky and old wood in a small dark room. Fast forward to today and this is a whole new experience! Sleek and sophisticated, elegant and dark, incredibly intriguing and seductive. Blended beyond the beyond. Sweetish maybe going syrupy but doesn't, yet dry, unrolls into warmth and another world....yes the oregano is there...but it appears as an earthy aromatic that grounds us in the background, becoming earthier and darker, perhaps dirty...ach.... I'm in love...!! I'm transported in a way that only Serge Lutens can transport. Sumptuous is the word that many here have used and yes yes yes.

This fragrance is absolutely beautiful and it's one of the best amber fragrances ever created. Resinous, Herbal, Vanilic with some sandalwood, floral and green facets is the way I experience this fragrance on my skin. I don't have anything negative to say about this fragrance because it suits my taste and style. Longevity and projection are great on my skin with projection lasting about 4 hours moderately, and longevity lasting around 6 hours or more. The vanilla in this fragrance is perfect to me because it's not too sweet or generic smelling, blending well with all the other notes of this fragrance like an conducdor of a beautiful symphony. For me Amber Sultan is a 10/10 masterpiece of a fragrance and I'm thankful that I have it in my collection!! A true example of purfumery done right.

Initially disappointed. First impressions heavy on the vanilla and sandal wood, generally I do not like these as dominant notes. Something cliche, corny “luxury”, I can’t explain it very well. I kept opening the little bottle, dabbing some on and regretting it for the rest of the day. I don’t know what happened, if it was flying back to humid New York from dry California, but about a month later, I’m addicted. Im wearing this every day and just acquired a huge bottle. It’s the refined/dirty scent I’m always searching for. It must have been the geography. In Los Angeles I was dousing myself in the CDG by CDG (original French formula, another “refined/dirty” classic) could not get enough but after coming back to New York, all I’m getting is the honey baby wipes :-(

Last time I reviewed Ambre Sultan I only had a sample, but now I finally have a bottle. I still think this is one of the greatest reference ambers on the market, one that reminds you what Amber can truly transform into, light years ahead of what amber has become with today’s offerings. That heavenly concoction of thick resins dried in the sun, mingling amongst spicy clove and nutmeg, with a subtle green, earthy, herbal facet from the bay leaf. There’s a general presence of thick, sappy sweetness, the vanilla is almost oily rather than edible. This composition is ingenious, a true display of talent and innovation. A 50ml of this masterpiece on discounters is cheaper than most designer fragrances these days, it is a sin not to own it.

I'm just getting to know this one and it's love at first sniff. Smelled and wore it for the first time last night. Nice bubble, woke up and still had a cloud. Ambergris is the star, all the notes seem detectable and blended masterfully. I really enjoy the mix of green and dry herbs I'm getting. I was worried it would be too sweet and I'm happy to report that it's not. Has a mild natural sweetness. I'm excited to wear this one often. I should have listened better when some of my favorite enthusiasts were showering this with praises. It is that good. Instantly jumps up into the very tops of my favorites. The bay, coriander, amber is top notch sailor stuff. The Incenses and sandal goes so well with it. 10 out of 10. Masterpiece.

more spices and aromatics on my skin than amber, i can’t even distinguish the ambery nuances at all at times and when i do it’s REALLY faint, i even question myself if there’s is any amber at all when smelling this, although i enjoy the little amber i get on my skin in the opening it quickly fades into an oregano/spice bomb and idk if i’m going nose blind to the amber or it’s a skin chemistry thing but even on paper i don’t get any amber :/ quite disappointed to be honest i was expecting “the best amber fragrance” but was left out with something quite honestly mid and not that interesting, could be a matter of reformulation, could just be my nose, but i get VERY little amber and A LOT of spices and herbs

if you took a dark, byzantine amber crystal and dehydrated it beneath the sun until it cracked and pulverized at the edges, it would smell like Ambre Sultan. heavy, warm, golden resins and a deep, balsamic sweetness - which is so idiosyncratic to Serge Lutens - paired with dusty, dry herbs and spices that inflict not an aromatic freshness but a parched efflorescence. it is sand on leather-bound books, sweat beads on golden foreheads, the idea - not the reality - of stifling heat when one is so used to the cold. like falling asleep a little too close to the fire during the wintertime and dreaming of desert storefronts instead of snowy cobblestones, Ambre Sultan is heat where it kind of shouldn't be.

Initially, I get a blast of bergamot, that quickly settles into cedar,...... cedar, cedar....oh, how I LOVE cedar. Sweet amber vanilla coming in sweet, sweet amber and cedar....omg Lm keeping it. Very high on the mark of a beautiful cedar wood scent and sweet amber and here we go, I am smelling tobacco. ( my review is done without looking at the notes or comment) It is a masculine scent, but a woman can wear this as well, and I will. I love the smell am outside fire pit, and tobacco if it's done right in a frag. The dry down is soft, warm, a little sweet, but still gorgeous. Almost smells like Ysatis. I will come back to edit this after a few weeks of testing.

Totally intoxicating. Gorgeous, deep, warm, golden amber - this smells like the feeling of the sun beaming on your skin. The opening is a bit animalic and spicy for my taste but it loses all of that in the drydown. The base articulates the perfect amount of sweetness from the vanilla that in my opinion, is really what makes this fragrance shine - so irresistibly inviting and intriguing! There's somehow an air of both mystery and familiarity to Ambre Sultan that makes the olfactory experience truly unique and masterful. I can see why this is considered a masterpiece and one of Lutens' most hailed creations. Rating: 8/10

This fragrance is the perfect expression of Arabian elegance. This combination of amber, spices, patchouli and cedarwood is a veritable perfume from the Thousand and One Nights that takes you on a journey through spirit, space and time. I bought it in the box set at the beginning of 2025 and unfortunately the hold and sillage are not at all what they used to be. I still have a batch from 2018 that I was able to compare with the box set I bought and frankly the quality has dropped drastically. It still smells good, but it's lost the opulence that made it special. Smell: 9/10 Lasting: 4/10

Absolute perfection. A beautifully executed amber. So much complexity - especially in the opening. The bay leaf and oregano are so wonderfully blended. A bit sharp initially but relaxes down into a dark, resinous, and balsamic vanilla with hints of incense. When I first tried this one out I hated it. I wasn’t accustomed to ambers whatsoever and didn’t fully understand its chemistry. But now, I feel like this could be the only amber one would ever really need. For me, the only other fragrance that comes close is Benjoin Boheme. Another incredible fragrance from my favorite house.

Sexy is the operative word. The initial opening is SO incredibly spicy, then within a couple of hours the spice settles and the amber and vanilla fade through in a hazy soft focus pull. It's just so sumptuous and evocative, it really reminds me of spiced dark rum. There's something very 1970s-80s does the 1920s-30s about Ambre Sultan to me... Think Biba, think Francis Ford Coppola's Cotton Club (1984), think Bob Fosse. You should be wearing this lounging around on a Persian rug in the glow of candlelight covered in half a dozen long 1920s glass beaded necklaces and little else.

I have always been drawn to ambre fragrances because it works very well with my skin. Ambre can come across dry and pungent to some but it also needs to settle in the skin in order for you to know it interacts with you, just like any other fragrance. In an hour Ambre Sultan turns spicy with the slow release of vanilla and cacao/coffee on my skin. Love wearing this all year round but especially during spring and early summer. Unisex but needs the right personality to fit this beautiful and bold fragrance. Ambre Sultan for me is the best ambre focused fragrance then and now.

My nose is becoming acclamated to Niche perfumery!! This is a beautiful and interesting amber fragrance with a very subtle sweet vanillic silhouette. This developes nicely on my skin as the fragrance dries down which is a joy! I love my designer fragrances however I understand now that in most cases there is a clear distinction between the two. I'm loving my perfume journey and all the great fragrances I'm discovering along the way. The price of this fragrance should be criminal because this is well put together and worth adding to my collection.

Herbal resin amber with refined presence An amber that opens in a sharp souk register of bay, oregano, and dry resins before gathering into an amplified, tactile body of myrrh, patchouli, and incense. Sweetness and dryness remain carefully balanced at its core, while a restrained vanilla warmth emerges gradually in the later stages. A continuous herbal–resin line structures the composition from start to finish, setting it apart from sweeter oriental ambers. Rich without opulence, it leaves a velvety signature of warmth and refined sensuality.

This is the sixth fragrance from SL I've sampled and second that I've really loved. Sticky resins, raw incense, stuffy and fireplace warmed. I get a bit of liquid smooth vanilla after a while on the skin. Quite pretty. A lot of this is very reminiscent of TWM's Whiskey. An iconic and intoxicating fragrance. Ambre Sultan is a warmer, less alcoholic version of that. I will be wearing the hell out of it and maybe buying something second hand after my sample dries up. I simply will not pay $200+ for 50mls. It's good. It's not $200 good.

Have you ever been in a bazar in Middle East where they sell spices? I love it because it reminds me of those crawded cozy semi-dark bazars. I love it because it smells like my childhood were spices had some special place in your kitchen, because we used to care more about cooking. I love it because it has eastern vibes to it. I love it because it reminds me of ancient stories of Zanzibar and its bazar. Yes, lots of spices, also beautiful vanilla, but I wear it. I wear it to travel in time, far back in time.

Ambre Sultan is my desert island perfume. When all the others are dead and gone, if I'm allowed nothing else, this is the one I'm taking with me. I love all of it, from the dried herbs up top to the warm, vanillic, highly animalic drydown that lasts for hours. Just bought myself a third bottle, this time with the vintage Palais Royal logo, as the original is a bit more skanky than the most recent version. I wear this fragrance at least once a week and it garners more compliments than anything else I own.

It certainly doesn’t disappoint on the promise of a resinous amber. Warm cozy amber, heavy on the labdanum with some slight herbal spice accents. There is also a noticeable musk and patchouli combo that is most noticeable in the opening which may not agree with those who are patchouli averse. It’s not loud and diffusive, but forms a cozy scent bubble. This and Grand Soir are probably among the benchmark references for amber with Grand Soir richer and more vanilla heavy (and much more expensive).

Resinous fragrances are a dear love of mine, and this one certainly did not disappoint. Rich, dry, slightly bitter before opening into a quiet, luxurious warmth. It makes me feel like I bathed myself in the smoke of bakhoor or that I currently have a piece of incense resin warming on a sheet of mica. That being said, this scent is not smokey, it's just warm and balsamic. Wearing it in the day gives me a sense of dignity, maturity, and separation. At night, sensuality and power. J'adore.

Ambery, spicy, and resinous, Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan is a warm blend of rich amber, aromatic herbs, and smoky sweetness. Now I understand why this classic perfume is loved in the Frag Community. A timeless masterpiece great for cool evenings and intimate settings. Belongs in my Top 5 Amber fragrance from my collection. Cannot wait to compare it to Parfum d’Empire Ambre Russe (sample on the way). Got it for $69 USD on Jomashop during one of their specials.

Even after two hours on my wrist, I keep getting baffled by the whiffs of a molten and piquant benzoin. Dusty, and dated initially but gradually it mellows down into this gorgeous, subtle, ambrosial vanilla. I keep going back and forth, yet I love it, I do. It makes me feel like an extinct insect preserved in cretaceous amber. I should revisit this more thoroughly in the winters. EDIT: Bought a full 100ml bottle. I layer this with CK Obsession. I’m in love.

A herbal, resinous,spicy, sweet, amber aroma that is extremely well blended and crafted. I can't express how much I appreciate this fragrance because it just blends with my skin chemistry so well. My wife steals a few spritz for herself every now and again which is fine by me and I can't blame her because this is a great scent to wear and I find it very unique. 10/10 fragrance that may not be for everyone but it's definitely one of my favorites ❤️.

What a lovely scent profile. It's enjoyable from beginning to end. If you LOVE amber, you are looking at the right bottle. It reminds me of Sospiro Deep Sea in the beginning (strong amber), but as you may know, Deep Sea goes in an entirely different direction with the marine notes. For the price online, this is a no-brainer and deserves the hype it gets. Lasts for a good 3 hours until it becomes a skin scent. (still very nice)

The third best amber fragrance on the market currently (behind Shalimar and Le Lion) smells very similar to both of those, but not as loud and possesses that herbal bayleaf inflection. Somehow compared to those two as well, it manages to be drier and less sweet in the early and mid stages, but when the dry down approaches it feels rather MORE fluffy and vanillic in fact. At least to my nose

IMO this is the masterpiece. Perfect amber perfume ever made. it's really unisex on paper but feminine on female. I think I will never try to find any other ambers anymore, I guess I found my winter amber scent for life. vintage, without being OLD. can be a blind buy for amber lovers. no medical smell, not even in the opening. amber done right, i would say.

I am tired of spending money on brands like Frederic Malle and Serge Lutens, don't get me wrong two of my favorite houses but I am buying their so called "long lasting and projecting" fragrances but they don't last or project for sh*t, I don't know if it's a reformulation type situation but I am pissed off and I am done with spending any more money.

The herbal notes of Ambre Sultan give the resinous accords a vigour that shines like the sun. It's perfect - not too rich, not too sweet, just a golden amber with a herbaceous sparkle that takes you to a land of aridity, sand and the setting sun, where the scent of dust and subtle spice rolls in the wind. This isn't just a fragrance; it's art.

Resinous and ambery. Slightly dirty and sweet...and a bit sticky. It stays on my skin for hours and hours...longer than the Amouages and Boadiceas I own. I have never come across anything like this. Not the dozens of niche fragrances I have tested. What did brother Serge infuse in that tall lanky bottle? 7.5/10