Baptême du Feu

I am certainly no shrinking violet when it comes to challenging and eccentric fragrances, so naturally I was drawn to Bapteme de Feu because it is just so leftfield, so daring in its execution, but nonetheless is anchored in the more familiar blueprints of perfumery so that it doesn't come off as entirely alien and ineffectual. The opening is just a 'wow.' Not many fragrances can elicit that response from me, but the trophy goes to Bapteme. It starts hot, metallic, but edible, spicy, and aromatic, too. What really grabs my attention second is its dichotomy of the innocent and the profane: candied tangerine and ginger, the smell of burnt cookies, burnt edges, burnt smoke, a Maillard reaction captured in liquid form. This a plate of tiny edible barrels from smoking guns. I am flummoxed by the deconstruction in its heart, beguiled even, because it somehow turns to a more prurient direction. Sweaty, ripe, but not dank. It isn't dirty to the point of smelling rank, but there is a bit of 'no-no' business going on. The castoreum must be responsible, and it actually pairs wonderfully with the more confectionary notes (which would make sense given its notoriety as an additive for sweet flavors). Furthermore, I've smelled far more urinous notes in other, more heavily lauded fragrances. Rest assured, it is the tiniest shading that provides dimension; there is no wet diaper here, no vagrant "unwashedness." Once again, it's the castoreum, it really is a dynamic substance. I am really finding this to be beautiful right to its drydown. As the owner of genuine absolute extraction of osmanthus, I can vouch that there is some in here, and it harmonizes with that castoreum like milk and coffee. I'd take many of the other reviews with a pinch of salt, as this salty number is the cat's meow and has that addictively lavish Serge Lutens DNA. 10/10

Bapteme du Feu doesn't smell like I expected from the Fragrantica note pyramid, it was a blind buy. I don't really get gingerbread or marmalade here. What I smell (overall) is more of a spiced tangerine fougere type of scent with a little hint of something dry/salty (the gunpowder note, yes? - a sort of unlit firework vibe). Whatever...it's quite clever & strange, & is not a talc/cosmetic type of "powdery". It opens up orangey, spicy & herbacious, but as it progresses white florals come through quite prominently, imo. I think neroli & orange blossom or petitgrain? It reminds me strongly of a warmer (winter) version of Kenzo Ca Sent Beau, & I think anyone who likes the Kenzo would enjoy this one. I'm quite puzzled by BdF, it makes me wonder if I perhaps smell things differently to most people ... Anyway, I sure wasn't expecting such prominent white floral notes - & (to my nose at least) they're absolutely there, loud & clear ! I don't think the note pyramid above represents accurately, there's a lot more going on here than the listed notes suggest. It's nicely done & I like it, but this type of white florals are not my favourite notes so (with hindsight) I possibly wouldn't have bought it. BUT, it does smell really really good in freezing cold weather, I have to say - so I'm keeping it. It's a Guy Fawkes perfume ! Edit: I was hoping for a sort of orangey/gingerbread version of Jeux de Peau - & this isn't it. Oh well, (maybe) my perception just might help someone else considering a blind buy of BdF ...or maybe not :-)

This is interesting. Definitely not a standard department store scent, which I really appreciate. The spiciness is immediately apparent when first sprayed. I even got an intense licorice smell about 15 seconds after spraying, which isn't as easily recognizable 2 minutes in but still distinguishable if you try. Honestly I'm not sure how to describe the notes after though! It's super super spicy and I don't detect much sweetness in it, but underneath all the spice there's almost a skin-like sweet note? I honestly find this so sexy because it smells to me like a spicy cinnamon Christmas candle and skin, which gives it that added sexy boost. Again, it's not a standard department store scent. After writing this out, however, I have realized that it isn't nearly as polarizing as I thought it would be (or maybe I just like it). It dries down to a very pleasant spicy sexy scent for men and women and I think I would like this on anyone really. I'm not sure I would think it's all that strange to smell on someone else, and I definitely don't get any pee smell. It's just really really spicy and quite pleasant. A bit of the citrus does come through, but IMO it blends so well with the spices that they kind of merge and aren't very distinguishable from each other. UPDATE: God, the drydown is to die for. It's literally just spicy skin, but somehow on me it doesn't come across as BO at all. Just spicy skin! I have no idea how to explain this properly 🤦. I just might make this a November/December signature because it's DAMN good.

What an outstanding gem, Sheldrake continues to amaze. I always love translating these names and trying to put together the story. This being "Baptism by Fire." This baptism by fire is actually gunfire, which oddly enough makes even more sense. I get the vibe of a desert that was blazed by gunfire. First whiff it smells very fruity and citrusy. This gives off a playful vibe. Osmanthus can often go in a fruity direction. It smelt like a fruity red wine. Once that settled down the gingerbread note warms everything. I wouldn't be too scared of that Castoreum note. I'm not picking up anything too particularly funky/animalic or atleast it's tolerable. All of this sits on woody backbone. In the air it does smell a little powdery with some ginger/cinnamon spice that actually does put this desert gun fight image in my mind. It also simultaneously puts the image of baked goods around Christmas time. Only a Sheldrake fragrance can pull off that level of nuance. This might just become one of new favorite Serges that I've ignored for way too long. You should sample as always, maybe not for everyone. But dam as of right now this is banging. This thing has layers and layers. Serge Lutens is so creative and artistic that it makes your average "niche" brand look like a bargain bin designer.

I got this fragrance last week based on an initial attraction to the ingredients and the concept presented by Serge Lutens. At first spray, it did smell very different than the usual fragrances by other big brands or indeed by SL. Contrary to other reviews, I didn't get gunpowder, animalic scent, or anything resembling pee on me. Skins react differently to different scents. On me, I got a strong opening of citrus fruit mixed with spices such as cloves, cinnamon maybe even nutmeg, all coated in something green (cedar?). As the initial 'blast' of strong flavours cools down, a beautiful sweet, woody, powdery fragrance comes through. It's very comforting and prepares you for the dry down of something akin to beeswax or honey with florals. I've been wearing it everyday since I got it and I love it. Yes, it's unusual, sensual, strong but in no way as powerful as Ambre Sultan. Some may find a Xmas vibe to it, I find it rather masculine, sexy and perfect for when you want to make a statement. Like with most fragrances, a little goes a long way but once you understand this fragrance, you will start loving it more and more. As with most of Serge Lutens' work, it tells a story and layers unfold and appear in waves, that's what makes his fragrances so special.