Cracheuse de flammes

Of the original Section d'Or, I remember my occasional sampling led to a fondness for Cracheuse de Flammes and, after much back and forth, eventually also of Bourreau des Fleurs. Smelling CdF again now, it is rather how I remember it, and I still swoon for it as a long-time (male) lover of classical feminine fragrance. That said, it's something of a Frankenstein's creation: Lutens (like all other popular perfume houses) has a huge number of rose scents which are all quite different from one-another (Rose de Nuit, Sa Majeste, La Fille de Berlin). It is only more recently with La Fille Tour de Fer that I think we've seen a kind of remix (of La Fille de Berlin) but as the description and name of Cracheuse de Flammes indicates, it too is a child of this same in-house rose grouping (and, though my memory is poor, probably always was). I suspect the main difference between the three is the provenance of the rose note utilised, with CdF smelling quite a bit richer, sweeter and warmer than its older and younger sisters (and perhaps consequentially and catastrophically, less interesting). Smelling this new version now I can also detect CLEAR hints of a metallically-inflected pear note (or at least some very wet pome) which of course is coming from the dregs of La Vierge de Fer. So we have the metallic pear note of LVdF fused to an expensive rose otto in CdF. That said, I'm of the view it works as a functioning whole, like one of those wind-up music boxes with a dancer inside. It gives a "fresh, hydrated" rose kind of smell, and does have a surprising vitality, wetness and "life" to the rose in CdF. It's quintessentially feminine, and I think I've smelled a handful of much more affordable, designer feminine fragrances with a similar profile, but perhaps not executed with the same level of skill as is on display here. Where I think this synthesis of former Lutens florals with a pricey rose absolute does give us something new(ish) to enjoy, I'd note that CdF to me smells less like a clearly superior rose to any other Lutens rose and moreso just a different version on an established concept. If you liked the jammy-metallic freshness of La Fille de Berlin but didn't like the cold, harsh quality, or if you liked the hardness yet fruity-floralcy of La Vierge de Fer but wish it was a rose, then here you go. Cracheuse de Flammes is what you've been waiting for. Does it warrant its larger price? Perhaps merely so if the ingredients truly are more expensive, but please don't assume you'll like Cracheuse de Flammes more than Lutens' other roses simply because it's more expensive and thus must be better. It's good, but it's more 'different' than 'better' per se. I'd own it, but I don't think it's for everyone. The mental image it conjures for me is of a woman twriling and dancing in a summer dress at sunrise in a dewy spring garden, with iced rose teas and jam tarts and pear compotes all around. It's utterly serene, soft, carefree and "youthful" (if not in physicality, then in spirit). This rose has been shorn of all its thorns and greenness, and then plunged into a bucket of ice for preservation. There's a fairy-like sense of hope in the scent, a vibrancy and optimism which isn't so obvious in its earlier iterations. And, of course, it totally defies its own name. If this woman spits anything, it's soft melodies and platitudes rather than flames. Rose at her least erotic, yet perhaps most beautiful.

It's super uplifting fruity musky rose. It's the most wearable rose in all Serge Lutens's rose fragrances. Rose in this fragrance is slightly similar to the Berlin one and Sa Majeste La one. However, it just remains briefly, 20〜30 mins after I spray this. Then, rose blooms beautifully with fruitiness like pear or peach and musk. I feel this is similar to Elixir by Roja Dove a bit (combination rose, musk, and fruits). However, this is less shampoo scent which I felt in Elixir. It's more rosey and glamorous. It's wearable through all seasons and any occasions (workplace, dating, nightout ok) except for casual occasion. I can recommend anyone who is looking for a rose fragrance which is beautiful, glamorous, but not dramatic and "non obnoxious rose oud nor sweet gourmand rose"!

It’s flowery and fruity, but in a very elegant, glamorous and not obvious way. There’s a spicy and subtle leather note, which makes the sweet rose be much more than a simple sweet rose. It works perfectly for warmer spring day, but also for a colder night out. I’d like to get a full bottle, but the price is too high

Absolutely beautiful rich, musky, honeyed rose. I cannot stop sniffing my wrist. It starts rich and thick and syrupy but then slowly transitions to a cleaner drydown making it incredibly wearable. Never becomes too cloying or overpowering. An absolute love. Maybe the only rose I need in my collection.

To be honest, this really reminds me of La Fille de Berlin. That one, to my nose, is a bit younger and greener, and Cracheuse has a slight metallic edge and a bit more of a fruit feel, especially during the dry down; but these two Serge Lutens rose perfumes are sisters in spirit. And both are what I think of as true rose perfumes, without much to divert attention from the dewy 3-d rose at the center of the experience. Although the bottle for Cracheuse de Flammes is beautiful, I don’t think it justifies the 400% increase in price over La Fille de Berlin. I had sold La Fille and decided to rebuy it after smelling this, recognizing the incredible deal that La Fille is. You can get 3 Oz on the discount sites for under 100 dollars US.

Cracheuse de flammes was dull even during the Section d'Or era. a whole lotta musk and aldehydes, a whisper of oily rose, and the usual SL jammy plum base. Give me a louder, brighter rose and turn down that toothpaste-mint musk hum, and maybe I’d justify the 500+ euro price tag. Since SL loves swapping formulas with every new bottle, I guess we’ll see if this “more ml, less €” CDF run actually patches up its old issues.

This is la vierge de fer but with rose instead of pear.