Cuir Mauresque

Intrigue may not be on the menu for the average perfume wearer, and Cuir Mauresque has a ton of it, in manner that may make some recoil but for an adventurous few, would have them swooning. Others who've reviewed it have asserted their associations with urinal pucks and antiseptic laboratories, wafting with a jarring pungency, warning others to gird their loins for its sweet, spicy skank. They all mention this as if they were all bad things—honestly! Besides, my associations aren't quite as uncouth and I let my imagination run free. I don't get locked in "presentism" and approach something that is "Moorish" with context clues—wandering La Alhambra, imagining the alchemy of its time, ancient Andalusian culture, the sights, the sounds, the smells, the perfumed leather of the age. Myrrh drives the core of the composition here, its bittersweet, complex scent profile, with its earthy licorice-root facets and spiciness. This, combined with an orange blossom accord, and a slurry of spices, could account for the medicinal, cough syrup quality that others detect. I think it's bewitching and delectable. Then there is the cumin: need I say more? The leather shares similarity with Knize Ten in that it shares the quinolines and certain hot rubberiness, but distinctly spicy, floral elements, reminding me somewhat of the heliotrope and violet of L'Heure Bleue, come into relief in its heart. Then there is Sheldrake's Musc Koublai Khan animalic base here, but here it seems more fleshed out and interlaced into the other elements that to me, surpasses the former (it seems that CM was released two years prior?). I am even reminded of the ghostly dry down of Caron Tabac Blond, with a certain creamy, buttery smooth texture late in its development, reminiscent of "aroma of the body after sex" quality of civet. Overall, Cuir Mauresque appears so divisive in its reception, some think its not enough, others think its too much. I think its the Goldilocks of its kind, never veering too far into a grubby place as some skank monsters do, yet it surely isn't a modern yawn from which there are many out there to choose. It's juuuust right...and perfect in the cool autumn temps.

i wasn't impressed by the opening as it was a bit drawback, but when i gave it a good time to dry down it gave me quite an acceptable new italian leather moreschi shoes smell combined with an expensive rich & thick night anti-aging face cream essence but in a soft creamy way, so you can smell the leather only and you can smell both with the cream essence - it depends on your decision. it is quite a bit softy dark, now it's 17 and half hours since i sprayed it on this piece of paper, so i guess it lasts long but it is soft now. a good perfume in my opinion with a reasonable price (around 130$ for 50 ml) i do feel that it is the smell of a raw rice before being cooked or even washed! just a raw essence of raw Indian rice. Edit (30th Jan 2016) one of my Friends bought this from their main shop in Paris, they told him this will be discontinued once the stock is finished, is it true? or they are saying this to sell more as other sellers does?! Edit (26th July 2024) I am very impressed that the current black tall 100ml bottle has the same juice as my 50ml vintage bottle! The only different is that the vintage is kind of smoother rounded leather spices, while the new versions is stronger boosted leather spices 50/50. I do prefer the vintage but the new version is around 90% similar to the original.

I got it in the sleek black bottle part of the Gratte Ciel collection, which is more expensive, got it for €305. Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens is a mesmerizing interplay of leather, myrrh & spices, with an unexpected medicinal (the key word here is Medicinal, as it's very medicinal!) 🌟 twist that sets it apart. The opening greets you with a sharp, menthol-like quality—reminiscent of antique apothecaries—layered over a supple, smoky animalic leather base. As it evolves, hints of amber, civet, and resins emerge, softening the medicinal sharpness while retaining its exotic edge. This balance of dark, animalic leather with its cool, herbal undertones creates an aura that’s both mysterious and alluring. Perfect for those who appreciate a bold, unconventional take on leather, Cuir Mauresque is as intriguing as it is unforgettable. A true Middle Eastern olfactory journey! 🐫 🏜️ 🌙 By the way this is the only fragrance Mr Serge Lutens wears himself! That should tell you something! 😎 The performance is simply immortal! 💪🏻 🦁 I mean just for the performance I should have bought 3 backups! This lasts forever and longer than the regular beast mode big boys like Interlude 53 & DHP 👑 A video review is also available on my YT ▶️

This starts off smelling of artist studio. Thick with linseed oil and natural resins. That opening lasts quite a while, and during that time I find myself admiring and even loving it, but I have a scent from a little no-name house (probably doesn't even exist anymore) up in Minnesota which scratches that itch. But then the drydown. And here is where Serge Lutens always seems to get us. I struggle with SL scents. Somehow, in their complexity, they become a bit bipolar and unpredictable. But so far, this one is just lovely. For me, civet never comes through (a shame), but the spices and slight sweetness shine, along with lovely incense. At this point the leather scent (or our aforementioned artist's studio) has mellowed and become sort of a part of the overall experience. Maybe we've gone from the artist's studio into their home for spiced tea, with a bit of incense burning somewhere in our proximity? But alas, I'm not completely happy with the longevity. I seem to get a couple of hours and then this one fades to a light skin scent. Oh Serge, why must you always break my heart so?

Dreamy. The most bewitching, sophisticated, sexy, spicy leather fragrance I have ever smelled (and I've smelled a few dozen). GLORIOUS opulent spectrum of spiciness surrounding a strong but refined true-leather heart. My dreams smell of this. And even at the terrifying prices of the SL stopper bottles, it costs only 2/3ds as much as Tom Ford Tuscan Leather. In my view Tuscan Leather is the cheaper, simpler (though slighly more long lasting) wannabe which aspires to be THIS, this wonderful wonderful stuff. I fantasised about an FB of this for a couple of years - one of the few lasting perfume obsessions I ever formed, after just a few tiny drops from an 0.5ml tester a long long time ago. ETA: And now I have one, thanks be to the fragrance gods! A Facebook group yielded up an honest & generous person who wanted to shift their partial bottle. The first and maybe only SL bell jar in my collection and it was worth every precious penny and more. In real life it's even more wonderful. A dream fulfilled and a lifelong love affair in full swing. Oooh. Simply the best.

"You filthy little ingrate, where have you been?! You should be ashamed of yourself. You've been in the orange groves all day, haven't you? I can smell the orange juice on your face. I needed you in the tannery, not out there romping around with the cows, horses, and sheep and eating fruit all day! Go out there and look! - go into the tannery - I can't do that all myself! All of that smoke and chromium in the air - that wouldn't have happened if you did what you were supposed to do! That leather might be ruined, and here you are an hour late for dinner with a ruined appetite from all of the oranges you ate, while your mother slaved over this beautifully spiced tagine and pinchos morunos, and you're covered in dirt and reeking of cow s*&t! Clean yourself up, now!" If I grew up with the Moors I would have probably had this, or a very similar scolding more than once in my childhood - and that scenario would smell like Cuir Mauresque. Brilliant.

Probably the best leather blended fragrance ever created in the world, this is yet another Oriental masterpiece from Serge Lutens. The leather blend here (highlighted by an animalic civet and musk) is mixed with jasmine, amber, myrrh, styrax, incense, cinnamon, cedar, nutmeg, clove, cumin, and mandarin to create a gorgeous, smoky, balsamic Arabian beauty that gives you the feeling that you are walking in a Middle Eastern spice market. Unisex (a bit more feminine leaning), with very strong sillage /projection and excellent longevity, this is a daring and sophisticated masterpiece that in my collection, ranks only second to the otherworldly Muscs Koublai Khan. This is for daring, bold and carefree men and women who are not overtly concerned about what others think of them. The stuff of Arabian Nights tales, this is absolutely stunning modern perfumery at its finest!

One of the best sweet leathers around. Orange blossoms, clove, myrrh, amber, nutmeg and mandarin. A sweet heady jasmine, leather begin to surface and nutmeg mingle with the spices.The softer civet add warmth and a purr but nothing to be afraid of...it just adds depth to the leather note. It so rich, well put together and glam. A woman or a man is just properly dressed wearing this one. Completely a leather that seduces you. This is Bal a Versailles sexy, sleek, modern counterpart. Definitely hypnotic and unisex. Fantastic for cooler weather. Sweet amber incensed leather. Nothing jarring or out of place. Whats not to love. It just works for me. Try Lutens Fleur D'Oranger +CM for a opulent experience. Im hooked. Its an import bell jar only so its a steep 300 for 75ml. I wish they bring it back in a 1.6oz spray. I dont understand why lutens does this.

What a stunner, unbelievably good! Just utterly wonderful. Animalic in the line of Bal à Versailles but without the headiness and cynicism. It's lush and warm. I feel like this is the closest I've ever gotten to finding a signature scent. All the notes listed pop up: myrrh, amber, musk, mandarins, nutmeg, cloves, smoke, wood. There is the idea of leather here, but nothing isolated. There is such a nice similarity to scotch here. Just the slightest sweetness which keeps it balanced. So dark and creamy. So sexy without being vicious. A honeyed sweetness and a light floral remain lightly throughout even as the smokiness and musky nature build into a deeper, darker amber scent. Really begins to mellow out after a few hours, so pleasantly, where it then with subtly begins to mimic leather. 9.5/10 Dark, animalic, orange citrus, jasmine, resinous. Lovely.

Typical Serge Lutens style. Normally I do NOT have a love for oriental/balsamic perfumes, but this time I am going to give a thumb-up to Christopher Sheldrake. Cuir Mauresque was divided into Leather group since it's a cuir-themed fragrance, but to be honest I didn't see much leather in it(compared to many other leather-leading fragrances) and I would rather call it Lutens-oriental.Extremely heavy and intense myrrh and clove, the sweetness of the balsam has almost overwhelm the leather note.If I didn't read the pyramid first, maybe I won't realize it is a leather-themed perfume. However, the myrrh/incense/amber have created a magnificent and splendid ambience——and that's what Lutens truly good at.Just like a luxurious palace dazzling in the sunlight.For myself it's a nice one, but if you're looking for a realistic leather scent, pass over it. -

Every single note in here is exactly what this fragrance smells like. Keeping it simple. That is a typical Surge Lutens quality. Amazing! Pure notes, civet here is one of the truest civet notes I've ever smelled in a fragrance, knowing that, civet is not a favourite note of mine. Dry down is gorgeous. Dior Cuir Cannage has the same vibe I see why some compare but it lacks the strong animalic note that is super strong here which makes Dior's CC more wearable, that civet makes CM a very classic "dated" smell, but I don't care if it's dated or not. The dry down of Cuir Mauresque is one of the greatest dry downs I have ever smelled, almost creamy chocolatey. Update: Quite shockingly, I went to my wardrobe to see what fragrances I have not visited since long ago and chose L'HEURE BLEUE by GUERLAIN Jesus! It smells so close to Cuir Mauresque.

Antiseptic laboratories, squeaky clean (in theory) lavatories, an apothecary's house medicine, maybe some burnt plastic, a shiny, tight leather bodysuit—and yet, Serge Luten's Cuir Mauresque is nonetheless refined, perhaps afraid of the leather tanneries that leave specks of dung on their raw hide. Instead, it opts for a hint of lipstick and a sweet kiss, and it's opening car interior/gas station urinal shock is not unlike Rien Intense Incense, except the Lutens projects less obnoxiously and is crafted with a deft hand and nod toward history—the SL marketing itself pays homage to Al-Andalus' cultural and artistic refinement, which is a kind of orientalism with some actual depth as opposed to Etat Libre d'Orange's ironic treatment of the Middle East ("by the incense I remain").

What a great Leathery and Exotic Spice scent this is ... a Bona fide "UNISEX scent. A man would be comfortable in wearing this as an evening scent. Like I did . yet..... I'd love to smell this on a well dressed woman ... she'd have to be a very confident and mysterious one much like this fragrance is .... The mandarin peel and orange blossom with cedar notes listed are sooo subtle they are indiscernible. The dry down is powdery and brings to mind CHANEL - CUIR de RUSSIE and a bit ...of "CARON's Tabac Blonde" I'll just say ...... Entertain Inspirations...... Embrace Decadent Cravings... Reward Yourself...... I'm reveling in all its sordid exotic scented ironies...

I am not a fan of leather, so I was surprised of how fast I fell in love with "Cuir Mauresque". This is the most perfect skanky leather I have ever tried. Even though others have complained of no civet, I get LOADS of it, the opening and heart part is mostly made of civet + cumin and it smells very, very naughty, animalic and sexy. I believe that this could be very off putting for many, but it is very addictive to my nose. It dries down to a sensual skin-scent, leather + bits of civet. I instantly added the FB to my purchase list, this is good stuff, unisex for sure. The only downside - after five hours it becomes hard to feel "Cuir Mauresque" :(

Absolutely Fantastic. Pure sophistication, not at al heavy. A flowery leather with warmth from the amber and musc. Reminiscent of Van Cleef de Van Cleef & Arpels, which I never loved as much as I love CM. Absolutely Adorable. A Musthave !!! Okay, I'll do an edit on this one: _______The Lutens Experience________ Incredible, oily, expensive and highly special. VERY heavy _ I love it AND plan on wearing it a lot march 18 2012 EDIT Bandit seems a close relative, in a tobacco way.. april 09 2012 EDIT L'Heure Bleu also but in a warm sweet flowery way.. july 29th 2012

Wow this is the most incredible perfume. It creates an unbelievable aura of smell around, that can reach the end of the room, but never cloying or overbearing. Sweet, animalistic, dark, heavy, dusty, powdery, leathery, ambery - in a perfect mix. This thing is so good because it's so bad. I feel like it's best used in a dark Parisian bar, at a luxury hotel, in the middle of winter. It may feel too strong at the beginning, but soon after that it's leathery dark mellow sweetness that feels fresh yet ancient. *** One of the best perfumes I have ever smelled.

Floral, musky incensy concoction that reminds me of incense at temples/and or musk lollies. It is incredibly complex and opulent. Like if Imperial Leather soap was available in a parfum concentration with a sparkling opening––I detect aldehydes? It's floral, powdery, ambery and somewhat leathery though compared to say tuscan leather, this is by far more floral/lipstick hence the Cuir Cannage similarities. You really do notice the listed notes in their entirety. Recommended for fans of intoxicating deep scents that is somewhat meditative.

Leather fragrances are generally amongst my go to perfumes and this is heady with leather and spice. It opens with a luxurious worn and warm leather note coupled with a raunchy, sweaty cumin note. Glorious. It reminds me of the old version of (my much beloved) Tabac Blond that's been sexed up a little with the addition of cumin and clove. I am wearing this today and it's potent stuff indeed. I would say that it's more of a masculine fragrance however, as a woman, I am happy to douse myself in this creamy, savoury kick-ass perfume.

This is a fantastic masculine leather fragrance. Definitely a younger brother to Knize Ten. The similarities are striking though the Serge version might be brighter and slightly more youthful. Extremely long lasting with its oil leather accord. If you like old school leather, give this a try, though there are quiet s few alternatives out there that could scratch the same itch if you felt the cost on the new Serge bottles was too expensive. Enjoy though and happy hunting

Straight away: leather, musk. I love this. As it progresses a smoky note comes in, which must be the incense; still further, and the orange flower brings the tiniest of floral tinges to the myrrh skin scent which of course is very long-lasting. This is not for anyone who likes floral or crystal aldehydes, this is musky tack-room stuff which I would wear most days if I could. I'd buy it in a second. Just my thing :)

Wow, Awesome! Sooo gorgeous. I think Waltzing Matilda will love this one, I will send her this sample. At first spritz I thought of 'shocking', the vintage scent. Then I thought of 'Habanita', vintage and 'Ciara', it's in that genre, deep intense gorgeousness that is classic yet still unique. Then there is a beautiful dark musk 'mmm, and so much more going on. A very beautiful, sophisticated, vintage smell. ❤

Very lovely powdery leather. The opening is a bit skanky, but not unpleasant. Later on it becomes very powdery and clean on my skin, with a medicinal undertone, I guess it's myrrh. Not spicy on me at all, just smooth leather, Russian leather I would say, thick and tight. Very long lasting on my skin, and with considerable sillage. I think it's unisex, but more on the masculine side.

A beautiful and well-worn leather rug come to life. It's been sitting in front of the fireplace for decades, and has absorbed smoky/incensy clove smoke that drifts out. The leather has been treated with sweet myrrh and rich ambery resins, and it wears them like a second-skin. This scent is so magical, and I will definitely be re-wearing around the holidays. A+ offering

Gorgeous! This smells exotic, luxurious! Very rich as the different notes are highlighted. From the initial application to the dry down to the last hint hours later, the fragrance morphs from a spicy leather to a kind of powdery leather (maybe it's the incense). All stages of the transformation are smooth, although I prefer the spicy period on my skin.

Chanel's Cuir de russie, Dior's Cuir Cannage and Serge Lutens' Cuir Mauresque are like the three musketeers. Each unique and master perfumes by master perfumers. There's no substitute for such experience. The only downside is the surging price which is the only instance to use the justification of the word senseless in such case.

I just bought a backup bottle of this ultimate masterpiece in the Gratte-Ciel 100ml bottle, the last bottle in Europe shipped from France from a niche boutique in Grenoble 🇫🇷 Celebrating 30 years of Cuir Mauresque: this majestic complex leather fragrance 👑 A detailed video review is available on my YT ▶️

Oooh this one is so fascinating! Leathery, rubbery, slightly spicy, and creamy. Perfectly intriguing. Every whiff leaves me longing for more. I smell like the most beautifully designed boot.

What a masterpiece, sensual, luscious, exotic. I am wearing it home for my own pleasure and I am staying in so to keep spraying it... This is love in a bottle.

At last I've got it from Salons du Palais Royale! It's the best Leather I've ever smelled, soft, and luxirious. God bless you, maestro Christopher Sheldrake!

wow what can i say ...... just in love with this lasts on my skin its just leather/spiced. i got a little sample for this wow is all i can say

The only fragrance Serge Lutens wears himself... Morocco in a bottle! Cuir Mauresque or "Moorish Leather" is a very typically brilliant perfume creation from the house of Serge Lutens, under the direction of the brilliant Christopher Sheldrake . The reason this composition is so brilliant, is because there is no leather in the notes! Leather "extract" itself does not exist in perfume making... much like the note of "amber", it is up to the perfumer to create the "illusion" of leather in a fragrance, and that is what Mr. Sheldrake has done brilliantly here. The fragrance opens up with a beautiful, heady combination of orange blossom and cumin, with indolic jasmine and a hint of tuberose (similar to another Lutens creation: Fleurs d'Oranger ). Then the nutmeg, cloves and "burnt" styrax come in, with a good dose of civet and resins, all of which creates the impression of a "leather" note... and what a note it is! The leather here instantly takes me to Morocco, where leather hides are tanned using citrus oils and sweet musks... it's really quite something! Cuir Mauresque is a beautiful fragrance, if you want to "get" or "understand" what Serge Lutens is all about, this should be the first place to start. It will not be for everyone, but if you really appreciate the art of perfumery, you will see this one as one of his best, recalling the great leather "classics" such as Caron - Tabac Blond or Fracas . It's also very sensual and sexy in my opinion... and would smell totally seductive on any classy gentleman or lady. In fact, this is the only fragrance that Serge Lutens wears himself! Wonderful! For me, this is Morocco in a bottle...

I love the dirty, animalic, sweaty side of this, it's perfectly sexy. However, there's something else I cannot stand. ..something sweet, clean and pretty, which I guess was intended to balance out the dirty. I wish it was just all dirty and animalic. Edit: 5 months later, I finally got a full bottle. The first spray, I only get very powdery, fresh and floral notes and nothing leathery, dirty or animalic. Few minutes later, the floral and fresh notes calm down a bit and I begin to notice something funky and animalic coming to play in the background but the fresh powdery floral is still very prominent. The first time I tried it, was in the middle of a very hot and dry summer, my experience was very sticky, sweaty, animalic, dirty, masculine and the projection was embarrassingly strong. I loved the dirty funky animalic side of it. However, now I'm wearing this fresh new bottle in the middle of a snow storm in December, the whole experience is shockingly different. Projection is very mild, the scent has turned very civilized and polite, it's more floral, powdery, and fresh with a bit of animalic funk in the background, completely wearable in social situations, it even leans more feminine now. I'm gonna wait till the weather warms up and the bottle age a bit, hopefully the stinky animalic beast I remember will come back with this new bottle.

I have to say that I am rather amazed by the fact that no one yet compared Cuir Mauresque to another (in)famous civet classic - Bal a Versailles (EDT). I found so many similarities - especially at the top notes, but most importantly throughout the whole atmosphere... Well, I'll just say it almost blew the whole hierarchy in my consumerism poisoned mind; $33 (or less) Bal a Versailles against $100-something Lutens?? Hell yeah! Now not only I must suffer the eternal doubt (and hellfire) of questioning the authenticity (and quality) of my latest Lutens internet purchase, but also my level of admiration for Mr. Sheldrake is broken beyond repair. I am not blase - Cuir Mauresque is leather done exquisitely; it's spicy but smooth, unattached and dark all the way, with no tacky citrus, obvious rubber and retro-powder disturbing this sophisticated dominatrix fantasy. Still, in my mind it will be remembered as the one that made me realize what a piece of art Bal a Versailles truly is. It's like; you read the book, no need to see the movie - it rarely gets any better. Sorry, Serge and Chris!.. Hello Crystal Carrington! :)

I ordered myself a sample of Cuir Mauresque. As I'm becoming more familiar with the Serge Lutens creations, I thought i'd give it a try before buying a full bottle. I'm no expert in describing a fragrance with all of the ingredients that are combined in each one of it. I find the scent extremely pleasant, I get the leather fully with a hint of musk and civet but on me the odor is quite faint. I have to snif my wrist if I want to decipher the more subtle notes. Sometimes I'll get a pleasant whiff of a woody oriental blend surfacing with the sensous smell of leather. I do believe that if I try it on myself some other time the smell will be more pronounced, that is what happened with Feminité du Bois & Daim Blond. This one is definately a keeper and I'll save it for other seasons in the year. I hope that instead a being a timid masterpiece'it'll deliver a more agressive scent eventually.

i have tried many leather perfumes and disliked most of them. but i really like this one a lot. soft, slightly spicy, subtle animalic, smooth leather. it is a pleasure to wear a scent like this. i am trying to save the rest of my sample, after i find out how expensive it is. i am very sure i love it, and i am sure that this love will last, but i am also sure that full bottle is completely out of question, since it is much more expensive that i usually go for. i have ordered another big sample and will be enjoying it. this is sexy, confident, comforting, all at once to me. i wish it was more perfumes like this one.

I just got a sample of this recently. I like it,but only a little. It smells like luxurious leather with the sweetness of honey or something else sweet. I do smell the leather in this, but not sure if it combines well with the sweetness in this one. I think this would be a better choice for me in a leather fragrance that is sweet than "A*men leather" by Thierry Mugler. This is a little cloying and heavy when first applied but it tones down after awhile. This is a nice fragrance and it's masculine enough but it just doesn't work for me to wear for now.

Now, THIS smell is masculine! My goodness. All other perfumes labeled pour homme could more correctly be labeled pour sissy, compared with this! Cuir Mauresque is the smell of Indiana Jones, the Marlboro Cowboy or the young Clint Eastwood. It is the smell of a man, who pulls his women in their hair into a cave, where they breed with primordial force, full of strength, life and steaming passion. Certainly not a scent for business men, family fathers, metrosexual cityboys or men, who don't dare to take responsibility.

The opening smells exactly the same with Dior cuir canage, which is my favourite leather scent. I enjoy different types of leather scent, like sweet and resinous, dirty and animalic, and airy and subtle, etc. It is definitely a worth trying one in the SL collection. I never know this fragrance until today when I accidentally saw it next to tubereuse criminalle. No one ever talk about it. It is a sad thing that it's in the pricier black bottle collection.

Have to add, Cuir Mauresque is so sophisticated, slightly masculin at first, but if you wait an hour or two, you will feel the finest dry down. Chic and very deep, leaving an excellent impression. Somewhat of a scent for individuals, not like Bvlgari that pleases everyone, irresistibly charming. Don't get me wrong, I like Bvlgari. Cuir Mauresque is just a different approach to fragrance.

Cuir Mauresque is a bit cheeky, quite unusual, very intense...feels the tobacco note, although not listed. I have to wear it whole day, these were my first impressions. It's really intriguing. edit next day/ refined, somewhat bitter, but ladylike, there is something irresistibly appealing...like it.

The scent trail on this really reminds me of a really rich Old Spice with some dark red fruit. Beautiful, rich, classic smell. I also get the black cherry comparison. It has a powdery aspect throughout the wear. Enjoyable and somewhat complex scent.

Very similar to Cuir cannage, with toned down florals and amped up spices. The leather accord has a vintage feel, with waxy and civet-like qualities. I wouldn’t call it animalic, but this is definitely on the daring side. Good stuff

I am wondering if someone swapped the juice in my bottle. This is totally a fruity leather on me.

A subtle, sophisticated leather with an undercurrent of spice and the skank of Musc Kublai Khan.

smells of expensive leather sofa and leather bags. such an elitist frag! not for the masses!

A slightly sweeter, more unisex and more refined take on Kinze Ten. But now way overpriced.

The most aggressive and in-your-face Lutens that i have tried so far. This thing smacks you right in the face when you spray it. Huge leather and spices (and some mandarin in the background). Winter time only.

Purchased a few samples a while back because I am trying to expand my perfume choices. In the past, I have always liked Serge Lutens fragrances, so I opted to buy several of the house's most popular scents. OMG...I reviewed this fragrance a while back and gave it a neutral rating. Just tried it again earlier this month and after showering and showering again, I felt like I was literally going to be sick...going to vomit. Initially, when I first tried Cuir Mauresque about one year back, I sort of liked it and hoped I would love it but I did't really like it then and I absolutely HATE IT now!! I find the fragrance downright repulsive...AWFUL!!! As others have stated here and on other websites, I (once again) hoped for leather, smoke, heat, wood, animalic notes and the like. Instead, I did not get much of that on me...not even close. Once again, the opening was overwhelmingly sweet, syrupy, powdery & stifling. After 30-40 minutes or so upon a second try, I literally felt sick to my stomach, dizzy and with a massive headache. This fragrance morphed into the most obnoxious, choking, honey-syrup, cloyingly sweet, sickly mess I have ever smelled in my life. HORRENDOUS!!! The stuff is making me gag...I really had to shower and of course, wash all my clothing!!! Uggggghhhhh!!

This is an unfortunate example of me having to put a fragrance into my 'no!' category because of how the cumin is handled. Beyond the leather it was the second note to consciously register in my brain. To me this is a simple math equation. Cured skin (leather)+ cumin+ animal musk (civet note)= body odor accord. I admit that I don't generally react well to the use of cumin or animalics in fragrances, and yet one of my favorite fragrances is Opus IV by Amouage which contains both so I clearly can come to appreciate them if handled in a particular way. I guess Cuir Mauresque just doesn't have that special something that makes them bearable to my nose. I had to scrub it. Interestingly enough, the remnant on my arm was a fabulously beautiful leather. I'd venture to say that the leather accord here is top notch. Sadly I can't get past the above mentioned association and I felt uncomfortable when I dabbed it on at work hence my run to the restroom.

I love leather. However, I have also realised that I am incredibly picky about which kind of leather I like (Kelly Caleche is a complete grapefruit/leather nightmare for me). I had high hopes as I love SL but sadly CM doesn't spank my chaps. If you are the kind to enjoy high-sweet leather, tinged with dried fruits, wax, oils and heady candle-shop spices then you must try this scent. If you prefer your leather to be sugar-free, dry, dark, dusty and stripped back to a more elemental basis, then you, too, may be disappointed here. I still search for a smoky, salt & spices, rough & resiny leather scent. This is just too sweet for me, too much dried fruits, orange blossom and caraway.... and yet, I stand firm that this is another beautiful SL fragrance of opulence.