Fumerie Turque

Steamy, skanky, smoky shisha bliss sweetened up just the right amount with some extra aromatics. Makes me think of the overheated harem-fantasy paintings of Ingres or Delacroix - it's still very much a Frenchified, perfumed-up, more feminine and less authentic version than the Middle Eastern reality, but the overwhelming sensuality and beauty make it a gorgeous imaginary world of its own. Fleshy and femme and just verging on kitsch. No doubt about it, there's a definite, dirty, nearly urinous tinge in the first hour or so, but the herbal/floral notes are lush and fragrant enough to waft you through it. There's enough sweetness from the rose/vanilla/tonka tinges that I got lost in the haze and wondered 'lavender' for a minute, but no it's not there. Very very Lutens, very big, and won't be for everyone. Powerhouse stuff - its intensity might get a little much in really hot weather and if any of the main notes (honey, tobacco) are awkward for you, this might suffocate. I already have a lovely, gentler and much cheaper honey/tobacco in Phaedon's Tabac Rouge, so don't feel the need to chase this one, but there's no dispute the Lutens is leagues more complex and interesting - those little tangs of redcurrant and juniper are masterful touches. Upscale option for a very upscale price, then, but I'd jump on a discounted or partial bottle in a heartbeat. Unisex for those who love both real strong tobacco and powerful sweetness. Performance is really strong at first - great billowing clouds of that humid redolent leaf - but the sillage does die back to less-befuddling levels within 2h. Hangs around as skin scent and on fabric for ages. If someone else footed the bill I'd like to spend rather a lot of time lounging around on this fantasy divan in my finest Turkish silk smoking jacket and slippers soaking in the louche luxe of it all. Absolutely swashbuckling. ETA: got lucky to bag a partial (and probably quite old) bell jar, which might have ripened and got even fleshier, bossier and more urinous over time - but is killingly gorgeous and has lost none of the top notes or the intrigue. It's HUGE and lasts all day; but definitely something I wear for my own pleasure only and wouldn't inflict on people at work. Recently got a tiny black official sampler, which must be of the new formulation, which is much much milder (?weaker?) and gentler, more acceptable all round, but doesn't have the sheer voluptuous heft of the vintage. Be warned - if my nose don't lie, the new formulation is still a great scent but doesn't have such a great big fleshy bottom. and yes the pun is intended.

I love this fragrance and the whole backstory of it. Now that it has been let out of captivity again, after being locked up in the Palais Royale for many years, the juice seems different to me. Now in the Gratte Ciel collection, then when it was available in the old bottles. Even before it went back to the Bell jars. The smokey notes seem more pronounced now and its sweet but softer. Sweet Juniper berries, red currant, is that what enhances the tobacco? It is better quality. Am I imagining that? I don't think so. It has been years since I tried it. And when I tried it before, then it wasn't memorable like it is to me now. I liked it but it didn't impress me like now. No shade intended, I am just speaking from my experience of trying it all over again a few weeks ago. It was like I had never tried it before. I love the scent of tobacco and hookah. And how he recreates the illusion of Opiates with this one. This is truly outstanding. A masterpiece. My second thought after trying this one is remembering the Cartier Ouds. Oud & Oud, Oud & Musc. If you ever get a chance, compare this one to those two. I swear its the same DNA. (The only difference is those were about $600 Canadian. I purchased them the year they came to Ogilvy in Montreal). My second thought was actually, "Are Mathilde Laurent & Christopher Sheldrake sleeping together? Whispering secrets in each others ears at night?" Because they have eerily created fragrances quite similar to each other but different enough to not be exact copycats. Is this just a happy coincidence? I'm not sure, but I have loved the Cartier "Oud & Oud" for a long time! (Even though it is a very light Oud). There is no Oud in this, but compare them. You will find that they both, well all three smell like luxury to me. But it's the sort of luxury not everyone "gets". Some people think old gypsy woman, some people think sexy Arabic man. It takes a while before it sinks in and you either grow to love them, or you still don't understand them. But yes, they are quite similar. I am holding back from saying they are the same.

Some words to describe Fumerie Turque: rustic, wistful, enchanting, sepia-toned, erotic. The sweet decay of autumn, the deep freeze of winter, the early stirring of spring—the textures fit all of these seasonal phases. In fact, on this chilly winter day, I opened the windows in my office, if only for a bit, to complement the aroma that fills the space. The crisp, biting air complements it; a counterpoint to its honeyed warmth and plumes of sweet tobacco smoke. Brrr, that's enough, closing the windows! Enough cold air has been captured to sustain this effect, and now I detect something that reminds me of dormant cranberry bogs; the scent of dried sweet grass under the sun; cups of hot chamomile tea for a weary mind. The aura is robust but never heavy and certainly not oppressive (for that, see Naxos). This one has shadows of raw realism and almost tactility (something Christopher Sheldrake often captures so well). Further in, it even turns more incense-like, particularly with the combination of benzoin and styrax. I agree with another reviewer that this imparts the feel of Papier d'Armenie and its slow, stirring burn. The tobacco is saturated and throaty, with hints of red tea and damp herbs. It is the stirring carnal undercurrent further into its development that attracts me the most, however, as if a warm body after some salty sweat and toil needs some good old grubby passionate lovin.' I imagine the foreplay that commences would smell just like this. Mmmm.

SERGE LUTENS - FUMERIE TURQUE To better understand and appreciate this masterpiece of perfumery, you might have to visit one of Turkey's eastern neighbors. Those of you who are familiar with incense paper, also known as "Papier d'Armenie", will understand, as this is really what Fumerie Turque is all about.. This aromatic, smoky oriental incense paper is definitely the cornerstone to this fragrance. At first spray, you are immediately transported to that corner of the globe, evoking a smoking lounge with a thick cloud of fruity tobacco smoke, mixed with the true star of this delicious aroma, which is the styrax. The use of the benzoin here feels leathery and dry, almost like cacao powder floating in the air while the dense smoke dances around you.. Once the initial blast calms down, the honey joins the pyramid, alongside the sweet, aromatic chamomile, further projecting us in a peacful, blissful, appeasing place.. I have never traveled to Istanbul, yet this is exactly what I imagine a quiet, early evening smoking lounge would smell like, while the fruity tobacco and incense paper fill the air, and the whiffs of the baklava shop next door come to visit once in a while... A rich, evokative, smooth and memorable journey into one of perfumery's most underrated fragrances.. Definitely a must-try any oriental incense fragrance lovers. This is truly a gem, and perfect for any weather a soon as the sun goes down..

When I first bought it, I was disappointed because it was not as good as I remembered it. I wore it nonetheless, but the more I wore it the more I liked it. After a week of feeling so and so about it, I started really liking it. Now, a month after my purchase, this has become my HG and my most used perfume. I can't say how much I love this perfume: it's cosy, calming, serene and addictive without being sweet or cloying. I can't stop smelling my wrist while wearing this and it lasts and lasts all day, although it stays close to the skin all the time. All I can smell is tobacco and vanille and just maybe a hint of honey. It's certainly not the most feminine of smells, but being a person who doesn't like to smell like others do or as others would expect me to (I certainly look like a florals' person) I find this my ideal perfume. The only other perfumes that have moved me as much and stuck with me for months were Passage d'Enfers and Ambre Fetiche. Definitely worth trying more than once, since it might require some time to get used to. Surprisingly too, others have liked it on me from the start, as it reminds them of an elegant, classy and very slightly masculine soap. This is all I wanted the Chergui to be, which alas is way too sweet for me to love.